Democratic Sentinel, Volume 18, Number 45, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 23 November 1894 — WRAPS FOR AUTUMN. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

WRAPS FOR AUTUMN.

THE GOLF CAPE LEADS IN POPULARITY. Cape* Have Advantages Over Coats When the Drees Sleeves Are large-Back and Front Views of Garments Richly Made and Finished. ' Coats and Capes. New York correspondence:

IHE outside garment which leads in popularity i s ™ I I the golf cape. Evi- ■ dence of this is on bt-M every hand, in the Silim athletic-looking VjjpA. misses who stride raWfex about on mild days with their open capes hanging by ft ’ \ the cross-over p — 3 straps, and in the dotting of the promenade with 'fill brilliantly plaided .TJOL hoods, each one li $\ marking a golf’s '//’ll rearview. Ivo rest H liefs to the plainly * ness of this cape are permitted. 1 e-

ginning as a garment which was used exclusively in outdoor athletic sport, it still retains the element of practicability in every detail and must show its usefulness-to tlio entire exclusion of adornment. With such a style of garment safely in tho first place in wornman’s favor, it is but natural that the competing ones, those which are consigned to second and third position, should be of quite another sort Some of the small wraps fairly flaunt their excess of fripperies at the golf, which can merely show in return a flash of bright lining. The weo affair of tho initial illustration is of this kind and makes a very pretty garment, one which is entirely serviceable for mild days. Of beige cloth, it opens over a vest which is topped by a tulle bow. Between the pelerine and the pleated epaulettes, there is a smaller collar of Venetian guipure. 4 belt which buckles about the waist and long tabs with embroidered corners complete the wrap. Answering the same call of rivalry, coats are tending away fromplainnoss. True, in many instances the evidence of this is slight, but what are straws in some models increase in others to unmistakable indications of tho tendency of fashion's current. If tho golf cape’s life is to be very short, and the almost universal opinion is that its

fashionableness will not outlast a second season, then when it t;na ly gees out there will be left a c Election of highly wrougnt coats, jackets and wraps to bid for supremacy. It would not be unlike the rule of succession in styles to have the plainness of the present capo succeeded by a garment which was as fanci ul as it could be made. At present the plainest of coats show but slight points of alteration. Handsome mo.ton coat -shave very pointed lapels and the co lar at the pack faced with velvet. Other new coats are made with belt passing outside in the back and through slits under the fronts, which may hang loose or button close. Still another sort is made to hook from bust to waist line, the edges coming close together and the buttons being set closely along each side. Lelow the waist line the coat spreads its skirts wide, and above the hooks it turns away in pointed lapels/ - ' Back and front views are given here of a coat which is very richly made and finished. Its material is black moire antioue embroidered with jet. It has a full circular basque, and is embroidered with jet front and ba k, the deign being narrower at the back. The garment hooks in front and is lined with ivory white brocade. The standing collar has a turned down attachment. and the sleeves, as well as the triple epaulettes, are embroidered. Than this there is now no other garment that has as clear a claim to first choice after the golf, which it far exceeds in beauty, though it does not approach the cape in current liking. ■Whether to select a coat or a cape is a matter for consideration. The latter has certainly the advantage over a coat when sleeves are large, as all fashionable ones are; but, again, a coat is warmer. The cape appears to be more

necessary, as there are some dresses with which jt seems almost impossible to wear anything else. Nothing could possibly be dres ier than one of the new short models, and there is a great deal of warmth in them after all. For the woman of matronly figure or of advanced years the Small, circular capes, even though profusely trimmed, seem hardly dignified enough. For •uch a woman a cape-mantle is a wise

choice. One can be made from sealbrown melton, trimmed with sable. It should oomo a little below the hips, be banded wi h fur at the bottom and hang in deep pleats at the back. The front should have stole ends faslened with jet ornaments. A small, pleated epaulette collar, garnished with the fur, should outline the shoulders, and at either side of the epaulette collar and bottom of the stole ends a deep band of jet may be used as a garniture. Although suvh a mantle has the effect, when on, of a complete underpart with a cape top, jet in reality the tronts are narrow, but, being held by an elastic band round the waist, they keep close and compact. Broid ,et is required for the shoulder straps and for the front ends, or the latter may be ornaments with drops, such a - are used for center fronts. In tis case, allow about eighteen drop ornaments and one yatd of wide jet trimming—four ornaments finishing the ends back and front. In indoor costumes, no one feature is more conspicuous than the uses made of old laces. Many a young woman is now congratulating herself over the fact that her grandmother had a passion for collecting lace. The ladies of seventy years ago seem to have reveled in having yards and yards of un-

cut “real thread. ” Thon they lot it lio in the dark, wrapped in embroidered and real lace handkerchiefs, and the real thread took on the delicate coffee shade that you can t reproduce with coffee to save you. Now the granddaughter of '9-1, who hus no passion for collecting except to wear, uses those laces and is perfectly happy in tho envy she creates. In utilizing them she often responds to the tage lor fronts, whi h has broken out afresh, and with such emphasis that a woman i annot have too many or too elaborate neck affairs, with high collars and fronts arranged therefrom. These aro evidently often planned to carry some bit of priceless yellow lace. Robespierre falls of lace are arranged from old paste buckles. Jabots of la ',e almost cover tho brocade or tho chiffon of the front. Fri is and falls are edgod with yards of roal narrow lace, and then the whole is fluted or accordion-pleated, so that the yards and yards can bo gotten into tho spaco of the front. Little frills of thread lace are set close together in perpendicular rows, a whole front being sometimes covered thus with lace of the narrowest width. Tho softness of the effect li very delicate, and tho girl wearing sp h a front holds her cnin high to show it all. J-omeiiraos insertion of lace is set between the little frills and the rich satin of tho foundation just glints through the creamy meshes, but shows no m»e. In fact, any way, real lace if used is sure to be right, only don’t cut it. A decidedly novel wrap is that which the artist presents in tho final illustration. It consists of two circular capes each edged with narrow ostrich feather galloon and a third cape, little more than a collar, which is embroidered with jet. Two long tabs extend down the front, which aro in turn or-

namented with jet embroidered revere and have jet ornaments at the bottom. The wrap is lined with old rose satin. Only the lower cape is silk, all the remainder being of cloth. “Narrow ravers” doe t not often stand for such shaped ones as these. The wily milliner has evolved a combination of toque and a sort of capecollar, so that she seeks to make her customer purchase a garment besides a hat. She begins by showing a tiny affair that seems to be little more than a lot of Vandykes of velvet, hunte-’s green, for instance each Vandyke edged with sable. All are caught together, there is a Hash of jeweled buckle, a yellow gleam of old la< e, and the whole is a toque. The Vandykes take each a correct piuce when the whole is on the head, and the effect is charming. Then she throws lightly over the victim's shou'ders another affair that also seems to be Vandykes, only bigger. Each is edged with sable, theie's a i ash of a eweled buckle each side of the throat, the Vandykes repeat themselves in soft confusion about the chin, ani the yellow gleam of old lace shows between. Take the two together, toque and “toquette,” and the effect is charming. It inevitably leads the woman on whom they are trie 1 to wish that she could buy the two. a fact that the milliner is well aware of and her price is very high in een-e juenre. As it is a device which cannot be copied by any one not skilled in hat trimming, most women seem to be left out of the calculations altogether. But before long the milliners who can command more than two or three customers a day will offer like wear, and then the price Will be much lower. Copyright. 18H4. “Window gazing is a profession in London. A couple of stylishly dressed ladies pause before the‘ window of a merchant, remvin about five minutes, and audibly praise the goods displaved inside. Then they pass on to another store'on their long list of patrons. Connecticut has 30,000 farm*.

THE GOLF'S CHIEF RIVAL.

A BACK VIEW OF IT.

A RICHLY MADE BLACK WRAP.

STOLE ENDS WITH REVERS ATTACHED.