Democratic Sentinel, Volume 18, Number 44, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 16 November 1894 — WRAPS FOR THE FALL [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

WRAPS FOR THE FALL

TO BE FEW CHANGES IN STYLE OF JACKETS. Cloth Is the Favorite Stuff, Although They Are Shown In Velvet, Embroidered with Jet—Some Short and Some Long, but All Are Neat. Outside Garments. New York < orreapondence:

j ■■ UTUMN styles in ■£&. IB outside garments have now settled fj down sufficiently 'Cf 1 Bto give a clear idea SJlft of what the winter jn»shapes will be. There are to bo few changes in jackets, and cloth is Wk - tho favored stuff, ®R | although they P | are shown entirely 11 |n lof velvet richly ™ *~I embroidered with 1 jet. Such are finished with vel\et standing col-

lars similar to those worn this s..mmer, with full rosettes on either side. Some have bird’s heads nestling amid the fluffy feather collarettes and boas, and others are entirely of fur, mink, sealskin and short-haired pelts generally, with heads placed on either side. But cloth is the material of most of them, and tans, beige and grays are the favored shades. As to cut, jackets may bo divided into two separate vorts; one which is very short and another which comes almost to the wearer s knees. The latter sort is newer, handsomer and far more expensive though the lust statement is almost unnecessary, becau e of the two which preceded it. Nothing more novel is offered than the garment of the initial picture and it is seldom that entirely new devices of shape are so sightly. It is from beige-colored cloth, hooks in front, and the lower part is open and flaring, being very full in back. It is trimmed down the fronts and alonsr the edges of collar and seams with fancy braid. Its sides have imitation pockets, and the sleeves have deep puffs finished by turned up cuffs, edged with braid. The garment has a turn-down collar, and is lined with white silk. Its two points of unusualness are the la; els and cuffs. Of the former's beauty there can be no doubt; whether the odd cuffs will win general liking is a difficult matter to decide now, but with the current craze for new things they are .sure of high favor for a short time at least. Two of the a breviated ones are to be seen in the two next pictures, the iirstof the pair being themore stylish, its very shortness being an especial recommendation. Of tan cloth, it is finished by two rows of machine stitch-

ing around the edges. Beneath each oi the four-pocket tabs there may be a wee pocket or not, as the wearer chooses, but the general custom is to ha ve at least one at the top. The plain sleeves are stitched at the wrists, and the short i asque is rippled at the back. The collar turns back in double revers, leaving a large opening in front. Prom this and the shortnes-of the garment it might be argued that it is i nly ior early fall wear, but this winter’s Miss Fashionable is to be of *an athletic turn, and she will defy the severest weather in just such a jacket. What she wears beneath to make up for what this garment lacks as a protection is quite another matter. She will affect a sweeping stride and do a deal of swinging her arms. Alt< gether she'll look comfoirtable enough, and that's her aim. The second example of this type is more reminiscent of past shapes; indeed. it is a hold over, but so freely offered as to deserve a place in this de iction. Of gray cloth and entirely lined with old-rose satin, its sides and back are fitted with ripple basques; it has strap seams and hooks invisibly in front beneath a flap of the cloth. The fronts turn back in moderately large revers joined to a turned-down collar, and each side has a pocket imitated by a square flap. The garment is machinestitched all around the eJges. As will be seen from these descriptions, coats are strictly tailor-made in finish, with no lace and no furbelows, the that is allowed being the fa ing of the revers with velvet. A slight infringement of this severity is the piping of all edges with silk. A notable example is a melton cloth coat of hunter's green, piped and lined with black silk, and buttoned with two large green pearl buttons at the bust. With the decrees posted for plain coats, that usually simple garment, the ulster, rises to the occasion and reappears with a brand new collection of oddities to recommend it. : The most approved pattern fits closely |

! over bust and hip, spreads away in a series of fluted folds to the hem of the skirt in the back, and flares in a widening expanse of material to the front skirt hero. The collar point back, in a couple of velvet-faced, turns • ed revers, the spotless shirt front showing above, it may be doublebreasted all the way down the front, or it may be double to ;ust below the wai D t line, and below just lap over, but not button. 11 is much better to have it button all the way down, for ' now that the twenty button glove is | no longer worn, and the low shoe is so ; popular, the button-all-the-way ulster tills a long-felt want. A man who fastens those lower button*, which are so much out of your own reach, must get i on his knees to do it, and there are so | many things a fellow can do besides , fastening ulsters when he is on his knees that the garment affords a new j method of subjugating the male man. | The ulsters cape has undergone many changes, all in the line of jauntiness. The dressiest cape is really 1 like a pair of epaulettes, for it may be said that the cape exists only as it falls over the shoulders, and the ulster is capeless at front and back. Over the shoulders it falls in three or four great stiff, fluted folds, that begin to set out at the collar and continue to jut out to the very tip of the widest point of the full sleeves. Thus all the .launtinoss of the cape is retained and the beauty of the trimly fitted figure is in no way concealed. All of which only goes to show that the maiden of ! ’l)4 is crafty and wise. Since it is an ulster of the autumn of ’!4 which makes this clear, the craftiness and

wisdom will surely be carried over to the maid of ’95. Capes are the cool weather garments which retain tho fancifulness of makeup that marked women’s attire last summer. Mantelets aie abundant in much the same forms which were fashionable two years ago. They only reach the waist in back, but have long tabs in front, a style equally suitable for slender and plump women. Bometimes a yoke is added, finished with lace or jet fringe The latter also adorns tho tabs, which are pointed, square or bias, as the fancy dictates. Somewhat after this style is the dressy shoulder cape which is the subject of the fourth sketch. Of pale tan cloth, it consists of a deep circular flounce attached to a white cloth yoke and plastron embroidered with tan soutache braid. The seam is concealed by a large satin ribbon forming loops in the corners and hanging down in two long ends that t ouch tne hem of the skirt. The s anding collar is also trimmed with loops, and the whole wrap is lined with white watered silk. Considering the time of year, it is surprising how the furs of last season hang on. These are found in such abundance in tho shop windows as to indicate that the ccming season s novelties will bo lew. It may be because last season’s stock did not sell well. It seems reasonable to suppose that during last winter’s hard times'purchasers for new fur garments were few. But good times are coming nearer every day now. Ask the traveling men; they will tell you that buying was never more general, and their only qualification is the small size of the individual orders.. Soon the times will be l oominig r and then ther e will be, not forty acres and a mule for every man, but,

perhaps, a sealskin for every woman A new trick with the latter fur is to belt it in with a band of beaten gold, which reminds us of the words of the victim of the tar and feather bee, who said: “Dear friends, this is laying it on thick ” . v, , v* * Copyright, ISM. f '• -

THE LATEST DRESS SKIRTS.

ANOTHER SHORT JACKET.

FOR THE ATHLETIC MISS.

SUMMER’S DAINTINESS HELD OVER.