Democratic Sentinel, Volume 18, Number 39, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 12 October 1894 — NEW FALL FABRICS. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

NEW FALL FABRICS.

THEY MAKE A HANDSOME AND VARIED SHOW. Novelty Goods of Very Coarse Weave Are In Great Favor—Prominent Colors in Unusual Combination Are BUI Seen—A Promenade Costume. Fashion’s Fickle Fancies. New York correspondence:

aside many of summer’s X garnitures and stuffs are our fasheq ionable women, but fall and winter fabrics make a KP' handsome and fcj greatly varied X showing. Novelty goods are on every aw hand, and there is great favor at S present for those sB of very coarse Sa weave. They aie woven like burggS laps, feel like burlaps and look like 1 burlaps, but, of course, are quite “S'" different. Still,

many of them are of a thick and rough texture, and the colors are startling, including much purple in several shades. The liking for prominent colors in unusual combination is by no means past, only September is seeing a different series from that which prevailed for the past three months. Plaids are found in this style of get-up, and are intended for street wear. Some of ihem are enough to awaken the echoes. Thus, It is permissible to wear on the promenade a tweed skirt of very loud barred plaid, a high cut waistcoat to match one of the brilliant shades of the skirt, a close coat that opens a mere slit all down the front, and which is of some distinct shade that bears no relationship at all to the rest of the rig. A high linen collar, a black tie and a wee bit of linen shirt show at the neck. The hair will be peeled back close, arranged in little braids and turned about in bun fashion. The hat will be a sailor with scalloped brim and stiff quills. Gloves are red leather, so stiff that she can hardly hold on to her umbrella, and very long pointed patent leather shoes, are the completing feature of distinctness. To be sure 'this is the advanced type, but the same features in less startling arrangement, or fewer of them included in one costume, are to be prevalent till snow flies, at least. Their lasting longer depends on whether

they will lose the ugliness, when the eye has become accustomed to them, which a first sight condemns. Some fashions, which at first seemed unhandsome, outlive the first impression they create, and end by being considered slightly and distinctively stylish. The plaids for indoor wear are quieter of tone, though the squares are of considerable size. They are usually cut simply, too, a favored style being that shown bv the first picture. Here the checked stuff is woolen suiting, and the plain gored skirt is four and a half yards wide and furnished inside with a silk ruffle. The prevailing shade of the goods is a tan. the plastron being of plain stuff of lighter tan shade than the other. The full waist has fitted lining and opens down the front, where the fulness is gathered with a heading Bretelle epaulettes of the check goods cap the sleeves, which are rather large, their fulness drooping. The belt is tan-colored ribbon, with bow and long ends at the back. As has been hinted, the prominent checked stuffs have yet to win their way to general acceptance, though they have made a good start towards it. With striped stuffs the situation Is different; they have won their spurs, are seen in the richest fabrics, and the prevailing stripes are wide and brilliant. What a time the amateur dressmaker will have matching these stripes! Already they tell of one woman who was trying in the same week to .make a bodice of bias two-inch striped stuff and to have her rooms papered and kalsomined. In despair over the first task she noted the paperhanger’s exact matching and turned to him. But the “bias business” was away beyond him, and that bodice looked when done like a trellis so rickety that a morningglory vine would have repudiated it and crept along the ground. A difficult task for any dressmaker is the second dress pictured, which is from pale-blue and black striped silk, taken bias for the bodice, which is worn over the skirt and has a point in back and front. Its garniture consists

of a deep lace collar whose ends extend down the front as far as the waist as a jabot, and a number of tiny velvet rosettes. The sleeves are entirely of pale blue silk and finish with lace trills. The gores of the skirt are cut

to match in zig-zag stripes, and a series of rosettes marks the left side front seam. Otherwise the skirt is without trimming. The ordinary blondes should wear decided colors. Why will they get themselves into art shades—dull greens that take all the color out of their hair and ruin their eyes, old rose colors that make their cheeks take on the same tone, dingy yellows that make a disconcerting match for hair which with half a chance ought to be gold? The brunette with strong coloring can do this sort of thing. The blonde should choose pure colors and clear tints. For her there are several shades of gray which are suitable, and they are now decidedly stylish. Of steel gray is the next costume shown. Its p’ain skirt is of serge and is laid in two double box pleats in back. The bodice has a puffed and shirred yoke with bands of guipure between, is made of gray silk, has fitted muslin lining ana hooks in the center. Its folded collar and belt are of gray silk, and the gigot sleeves remain plain. This is a suitable model for all serge gowns, and offers a change from the blazer and Eton style-, ft would be

charming in dark blue, green, brown, or any other dark shade, with corresponding silk bodice. The fourth dress sketched is from brown novelty suiting, and its full be ft skirt has an overskirt drapery fastening with large buttons and imitated button-holes of cord, and edged with wide dark-brown and pale-gold passementerie. Basques show the back of the bodice, but the fronts are loose and are finished with large revers and sailor collar banded with galoon. Paia maize-colored silk is used for the vest, the collar matches, and the elbow sleeves have deep turned-back, cuffs with ornamental buttons like those on the fronts and back of the bodice. Reversing the rule of certain sorts of yokes, those for dresses vary with the necks they encircle. They may have no collars when the throat is round and fair, the finish at the neck being just a drawing ribbon. A pretty outlining to a yoke is a wide fichu affair, shaped like a sailor collar, which outlines the yoke’s lower edge. The fichu finish is square across the shoulders in the back, and its points spread wide in front. It fastens in the middle of the front, the line of its lower edge spreading straight across the figure well out on to the big sleeves. The yoke rises softly in the cut out space of the low neck sailor collar, which is itself of white moire, covered thickly with burre lace and frilled with an edge of the same. It ties with long moire ribbons. The yoke is of the most filmy white chiffon and makes any gown dressy. Turn-back, adjustible cuffs of the lace-covored moire may be added. Highly ornamental is the yoke on the last dress pictured, if less elaborate of construction than that just described. It is made of white watered silk covered with fine yellovz old lace, with one big vandyke point for each shoulder. Beneath these points the sleeves are very full and are draped with white rosettes in the center of the upper arm. A pleated back and crossed over fronts are supplied to the bodice, and it hooks beneath the lat-

ter. The skirt is very wide and is laid ‘ in a wide box-pleat on the right side, | in three box-pleats on the left ana again in three p’eats in the back. A ribbon belt fastens with a rosette, one end extends over the right, two over the left, and all terminate in rosettes which apparently hold the pleats in place. Beige woolen crepon, striped with green, the latter dotted with white, is the dress stuff. These tricks of utilizing sash ends as part of the skirt’s ornamentation are eagerly seized upon just now, and they are found upon the costliest dresses, despite the fact that the devices are simple and inexpensive. This one is novel and can be used to give a touch of freshness to an old dress. Tobacco color in combination with dull red makes a stylish fall costume, suggestive of the rich coloring of the fading oak leaf. An elegant creation along this line has the skirt edged with a wide Greek design wrought in applique of narrow red velvet ribbon on the tobacco cloth. The vest has an all-over design of the red on the stuff, and collar and cuffs are finished to match the border of the skirt. This | notion of making applique designs with narrow velvet on cloth of a contrasting color is to be much in vogue, and will always lend elegance of effect that no ordinary sewed-on-after effort can produce. One of fashion's quick turns about brings to the fore belts of elastic ribbon, heavily ornamented with sequins and so arranged that there seems to bo ’ no fastening. Thus the buckleless belt appears, after women have spent all their spare cash on buckles. The new belt looks as if it had grown on its wearer, and the elastic adjustment to the figure makes even a small waist seem all the tinier. This being th* case, away with belt buckles. After all, the waist, not tho buckle, is the thing. Copyright, 1894,

ALL IN ZIGZAGS.

SERGE FOR SKIRT AND SILK FOR. BODICE.

A BRAND NEW TALL COSTUME.

A BELT WHICH ENDS ODDLY.