Democratic Sentinel, Volume 18, Number 37, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 28 September 1894 — FANCIES OF FASHION. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

FANCIES OF FASHION.

GREAT VARIETY IN THE STYLES FOR THIS SEASON. No Relaxation In the Search for Novelties In Dress—The High Appreciation Which Oddities Receive—House Dresses Daintily Adorned—Colors in Great Variety. Dame Fashion's Doings. New York correspondence:

VERY possible means which can be utilized to give distinct character to a costume is welcomed by the designers of fall dresses. While cool weather has necessarily shelved many of the sorts of ornamentation which prevailed during the summer, there is no relaxation in the eager search for novelties. The gauzy notions of August are replaced by

others which are suited to the approaching cold weather, but unusualness is as valued in the latter as in the former, and the danger of overdoing the oddity of any one feature or the whole of a costume is as slight as it was before. As an example of the high appreciation which oddities receive, the house dress pictured in the initial is eloquent, for it was oonsidered by its designer as nothing short of a work of high art. Of its novelty there can be no doubt; of its beauty there may be different opinions, but that is the point; the stranger is welcome because he is a stranger, and without much regard for his appearance. A simple gray woollen suiting is used for this dress, and its gored skirt is three and a half yards wide, and is lined with alpaca. The back is laid in pleats facing each other. Lining and stuff are cut in equal length and width for the bodice. It has a tiny basque and a full plastron which hangs down below the waist line, coming inside the buttoned extra fronts, which are sowed into the side seam, and is finished with a narrow black lace ruffle. A deep oollar comes aoross the shoulders, with the ends tucked into the loose pa’ t in front A plain standing collar and narrow sleeves complete the costume. House dresses of the neglige order have ever been daintily adorned, and when one can be constructed which

combines delicate stuffs and now sorts of garniture, the result is especially pleasing-. The costume next shown does this and is well worth copying. As sketched it is made from white cashmere and mousseline chiffon. The back breadths are gathered in the waist and flare considerably in the skirt portion. At the top they are gathered to a round yoke. The front breadths hook beneath the draped part, which is left loose to show the E leafed panel of moussoline. A draped ertha of white cashmere comes over the shoulders and is fastened with jeweled ribbon, from which three strings of paste pearls extend to the shoulder, where they fasten with a rhinestone buckle. Jewel embroidery also borders the drapery. The sleeves are of pleated chiffon, and a white cashmere ruchingishows at the neck. If reproduction of this dress is attempted, and a great many stuffs are well suited to it, the jeweled ornamentation might be omitted. In the original this trimming looked well, but there is so much danaer in the use of such things of cheapening the effect of the whole by a profusion of meek gems, that the amateur needs beware.

Collars and neck fixings are in great variety, because they are so generally used. Stocks threaten to be all the rage and so will the poor short-necked folk who have to go into them. The easiest way to accomplish a stock at home is to make a high standing folded collar with stiff foundations which fastens in the back. To its edges at the back at e attached soft scarf pieces. After the stiff collar is adjusted, the scarf pieces cross each other, come to the front and there tife, the stock part appearing aboke the bow. Thens stocks are every bit as becoming and correot as the expensive ones from the stores, and they can be made of leftover gauze, crepe, chiffon, taffeta, satin, moire, eta So it is best to save the leavings of the summer wardrobe. Haying had a good season’s wear out

of a chiffon dress, you are really so much ahead if out of the whole gown you can get the necessary two yards to make a stock. The very swellest collar will be black moire, a modification of the direatoire bow that captured everyone last season, and the old bow can be utilized for the scarf pieces of the new stock. For a black stock, moire may be used in the stock part, and black gauze, chiffon or crepe may form the scarf, but so far there is no encouragement for the woman who would like to make her stock of one color and the tie of another. For those who do not like the stock there is the pretty folded collar, which seems likely to be popular forever. This style.of collar now fastens at the back, where a spreading bow is added, so wide in “wing and wing “fashion that from the front the tips of the loops show prettily, with a good deal the same effect that is produced by side loops. For dressier indoor wear than either of the costumes already described is that of the third illustration. Composed of white linen muslin figured with delicately tinted flowers, it is trimmed with plain and embroidered tulle. The Bklrt has a slight train and is edged with a narrow tulle ruffle around the bottom. Figured muslin is used for the bodioe, and it has separate fronts let into the side seams, which are caught just above the bust. There is a short basque of embroidered tulle and a long fichu and sleeve frills of the same. The front of the bodice

is of the tulle, the back of the figured goods. A pretty di ess accessory can Oe made of black satin in the shape of an elaborated fichu with a regular pointed fichu back that fits down under the scarf pieces. The latter cross in surplice lashion over the bust, pass about the waist and tie at the side in a great bow with drooping scarf eods. The special elaboration oonsists in epaulettes of satin set on the fichu, to hang over the sleeves of the gown with which the Marie Stuart surplice is worn. At first tight it is difficult to tell just what it is, whether a bolero jacket, an epaulette or a sleeve. It has a collar and seems to be a jacket with front) and back just like a simple bolero, then it becomes infected with the eccentricities suggested by sleeve elaboration. Instead of going under the arm for the sides of a simpleminded bolero, it goes right over them and develops a lot of folds and fancies on the way, letting the sleeve of the gown show above at the shoulder and underneath. It is pretty and falls in well with the present fancy for oddities about the shoulders. No daintier shoulder trimming could be devised than that seen in the neglige of the next sketch. Here the stuff is pink and white striped linen batiste, and the garment has long basques and a yoke imitated by the lace bertha, which runs down the front in a cascade. The fullness is taken in the waist in back, and the sleeves are finished by lace frills. Either pink or white China silk may be used as lining, and a bow of the same shade of ribbon ties the standing collar in

front. The jacket hooks invisibly in front, Copyright. 1394. A recent English invention is thel pulsimeter, a watch made especially for the use of phyt-icians in timing their patients’ pulses. It is constructed on the principle of the stop-watch, and indicates the pulse rate on a dial in beats per minute. The Duke of Parma, father of the Princess of Bulgaria, is the prince who can boast of the most children among the princes of Europe. He has fifteen, viz., ten daughters and five sons, all of whom Bre living. Beetles are both deaf and blind.

CARRIAGE COSTUME

WINDMILL SLEEVES.

IN FIGURED WHITE MUSLIN.

A BRAND NEW NEGLIGE.

DAINTY SHOULDER FIXINGS