Democratic Sentinel, Volume 18, Number 35, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 14 September 1894 — WRAPS FOR AUTUMN. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

WRAPS FOR AUTUMN.

TIME HAS COME FORTHEIR CONStDERATION. Women Who Bought Small. Frock Coat« Laat Winter Are Not Going to Throw Them Away—Many Being Made Over— Box Pattern Popular. Coat* and Cape*. New York correspondence:

HE time has come for the consideration of coats, capes an 1 wraps, for buying new ones, if that is possible, for making over the old with a temblance of the new when that can be managed. There is a deal of the latter going on, though, as usual, the new styles are not well adapted to making over. Depend upon it, all the women who bought swell frock coats for outside wear last year are not

going to throw them away. They are right, too, for the woman who is buying new this fail will get a coat of box pattern if she has to have one. If she can have just what she wants, she will have a golf cape. Thh cape is as different as can be from the bijou affairs of many colors and more frills, which died out of fashion last spring from over-elaboration. The golf reaches to the knees, is made a good deal like a skirt, gored smooth about tre shoulders and spreading wide at the edge, but with no folds. It is made of wiry or tweed-like material, and, as a rule, in solid colors. The lining is the characteristic part of the garment. It must contrast strongly with the outside, may be of the most brilliant plaid, and is always silk. The cape may be finished with a big hood, well lined, or with a second cape in cut like the under one. only much shorter. This style is being produced in all the expensive furs, and the woman who late last season was tempted by a genuine bargain in furs to buy one of the new gone-by, scallopy affairs is tearing her hair. One beauty of the golf cape—to a woman who has one—is that no other cut of cape will make over into this latest style. But, mind, a very fair copy can be made with the skirt of last fall’s serge gown. First, the worn part about the foot will come off to make the right length, and out c' it

can come enough to make the required turn-over collar for the neck. Shape in the gores to fit over the shoulders, add the plaid lining, letting the collar be faced with it, hold your head up and no one will ever suspect the trick, unless pride in your own cleverness leads you to confess it Well-to-do women are publishing their possession of large purses by selectingwraps which utterly ignore any such thing as hard times. £or early fall wear some very elegant silk and lace wraps are shown, and the initial sketch depicts one of these which has no sleeves. Of watered silk and trimmed with Venetian lace, it is cut princess, each side showing a garniture of two bands of guipure insertion. The back is cut off at the waist and the skirt Is then gathered very full to the bodice portion. A circular collar enriched with guipure forms bretelles in back and is cape-like in front. Aside irom these outside garments, no one item of woman’s attire is made to express, so much of novelty at this time of year as traveling gowns. Many women do not take their outings until September begins, and she who has a large wardrobe delights in having gowns for the autumn trips which are so aggressively new as to impress the observer with'the fact that they did not do service in the summer journeyings. As plainness and comparative simplicity are a requirement, designers need be ingenious to devise something novel. How well they succeed at times is shown by the traveling rig of this second illustration. Cut from tan woolen suiting showing a small check, its left front laps over-, as shown, and falls almost to the bottom in a big box pleat. The false skirt showing beneath the box pleat is of plain tan stuff of a darker shade than the others. The dress has no darts, and the fullness is confined in the waist by a sash of brown surah. The draped sleeves are wide and comfortable and have turned back cuffs faced with white surah. They are also gar-

nished with brown surah and rosettes of the same. Home-spun, serge, cheviot, tweed and cloth find the usual amount Of favor for early fall wear. The cheviots are particularly pretty. Many woven of multi-colored threads that make a fawn or tan tone have a fipe line of

one light color marking off inch and a half squares. Sometimes a point or line of brieht-colored threads will be seen in the squares. They are combined with two-toned or plain-colored silk. From the serges a choice is most often made for dresses to be worn on trips taken on the water, and navy blue is naturally a much favored color. Of such material and hue is the very pretty dress which the artist next presents. In this costume the full skirt is ornamented only by three rows of coarse silk stitching around the bottom. With it is worn a striped blue and white jersey and a short girdlelike jacket held in place by twisted ribbons fastening on the shoulders. The full sleeves are of serge and have turned back cuffs of white flannel. White taffeta lines the jacket, and a white leather belt fastens with buckles in front. These belt buckles are very important items now. for there Is a perfect craze for fanciful be'.t ornaments, and many of them are very costly. In some cases it looks as if women were sacrificing their jewelry to enrich their belts. Black takes the lead in the new styles, as it usually does, but colors are sure to follow. Last season saw such a “regular jag” of color that it is to be Ir ped that women can restrain themsehes to something like good taste this time. Butternut brown, which is

really only a dull black, is to be a street color for the fall in combination with the ever-audacious magenta, which will not give up and go away as so many women wish it would. One of the first colors to follow the black s lead toward new vogue is gray. A poplin of silver gray, tyimmed with gray velvet, gray silk and steel galloon, is used for the dress which appears at the left in the next picture. Its gored skirt is banded with velvet and galloon, and has an apron overskirt which is similarly garnished and slightly draped on the right side. The bodice front is trimmed with pleated velvet, and the lower part is coveted by a deep, fitted girdle. The garniture consists of slashed bretelles and epaulettes, trimmed with velvet and galloon. The moderately wide gigot sleeves and the standing col ar are plain. More novel but less pronounced of co'or is the companion costume to that just described. Its stuff is dark-blue crepon and the trimmings are black watered silk ribbon and colored embroidery on bands of unbleached linen. The skirt is edged with a double box pleated ruching of black moiie ribbon which stops on each side about fifteen inches from the lack center seam, ending in a big bow. At the top are two pocket flaps on each side, the under one of linen, the top of crepon. The bodice is worn inside the skirt, hooks in the center and has a plain p’astron which laps over. Its bratelle garniture consists of a fold of crepon trimmed with steel buttons and a pleated ruch ng of the watered ribbon, all laid in pleats on the waist. The full draped sleeves have narrow epaulettes of embroidered linen. In the last picture two mourning dresses appear. The left hand one is for deep mourn’ng, and is made of heavy black crepe cloth, with a gored skirt banded by a deep bias fold of era-e. A large plastron and revere which form a deep round col'ar in back appear on the bodice. Both are of crape, and a cre'e lisse bow is placed at the neck. The gigot sleeves are banded with narrow bias crape folds at the waist, and the standing collar is of the same material. Ths

other dress is less somber, and is from black woolen suiting. Over its bellshaped underskirt comes a draped overskirt which is open on the leftside and garnished with thieerows of black woolen braid. The bodice is fitted in back and has loose jacket fronts, which open to show a vest of black grosgrain shirred several times around the neck. Folded grosgrain gives 1 he wide girdle wnich fastens with a small head in back. The sleeves are shirred several times near the armhole, and are edged with braid, which is also put on the revers and turned down collar. Many velvet weaves are on the market and so sati f.ctory in col r and softness are some of these that it may be well to think twice before plunging into genuine silk velvet. For women who have reached the beauty of gray hairs, black velvet will always be the ideal formal gown. A really rpyal gown worn by the majestic mother of a pretty bi ide at the wedding reception was of silk velvet, made with a voke of duchess lace orer the velvet. The slee r . es were enormous velvet putts leaching to the elbows, points of laee extend’d from the yoke over the puffs and rich lace cuffs were set on the band of the sleeves to turn back against the velvet. The skirt was long in front, its folds moving heavily when pushed forward. A wide train fell from under the pointed bodice, sweeping to. either side and forming a suitable background to the woman's splendid height. Her hair, a snowy white, was piled high at the back, and .held with an ivory comb. At the forehead the locks parted softly to either side. Such a gown was magnificent in its simplicity and could hot. be improved upon, but like other works of art. its cost was gteat. Capyriaht. isax.

FOR AUTUMN JOURNEYING

JAUNTY ON LAND OR SEA.

FASHIONABLE FALL TYPES.

THE GARB OF GRIEVING.