Democratic Sentinel, Volume 18, Number 34, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 7 September 1894 — WHAT WOMEN WEAR. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

WHAT WOMEN WEAR.

•STYLES FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO LOOK PRETTY. As the Summer Season Draws to a Close the FrlvoUttes of Toilet Seem to Become More and More Emphasized Overwrought Garments, Dame Fashion's Dotings. New York correspondence:

UMMER is waning, and meanwhile the frivolities of toilet seem to become more and more emit phasized. Gauze jp\\and lace, airy and flitting frills make even a fz simple dress a riot of rustling elaboyi! rations. Ends of /A lace or ribbon t o f'jjl catch-the summer ' breezy and float out beyond the wearer A are a pet addition Ito toilets, and a flying scarf, as they tKf® are ca’led, has even been attempted in bathing suits. De-

spite the current prevalence of such notions, the outlook for fall fashions indicates a season of more simple attire. The inference is thus plain that the last of August is seeing the final gasp of this long continued indulgence in overwrought garments. This applies to colors, too, for there is promised positively a rest from rainbow effects. All signs point to a reign of restful coloring and artistic rather than startling combinations of shade. This change, coming at a time when many fashionable women are making a shift from one resort to another, is not unwelcome to them, for they are enabled to appear in their newly reached place in entirely new outfits, which proclaim their newness by the very fact that they are of simple cut and blended colors. If their travels bring them to a mountain resort the change in dress is less noticeable, for the reason that mountain outing d resses are ordinarily simple affairs in which swell women may seem more dainty as they play at roughing it, or make pretense at climbing peaks. A thoroughly novel costume of this sort is presented in the initial sketch, and is by no means an expensive outfit, as its description will show. Compo;edof black

ana white striped flannel and darkblue cheviot, its skirt is of the striped material, is side-pleated and has a tunic overskirt of dark-blue cheviot finished at the edge with machine stitching. The sleeveless vest comes from the stuff and buttons in front It is simply finished with a turned down collar. The jacket is very short and has a deep collar and revers faced with striped flannel, and cuffs of the fame. It ties with heavy blue cord and three smoked pearl buttons ornament each side. Women dress as carefully, however, at the mountain resorts as'they do at the shore, and since there must be gowns for dressy occasions, the change from elaborate to plain and from summer to autumn's modes is not completed in a day. The woman of wealth always takes pleasure in apoearing in a new and handsome gown so late in the season that it will be plain to all beholders that there remains but a very short time in which to make use of it. Thus in the dress next shown summer styles linger to an extent which will make it impossible in a few weeks, though it can be easily adapted, because the chief suggestions of warm-weather wear which it possesses are its color and the novel hat which tops all. Its material is white crepon, which is combined with sapphire-blue liberty satin. The underskirt is covered half way up with a band of satin, which is again trimmed around the bottom with a pleated ruffle of fine, gauzy, cream-colored lace. The crepon overskirt is gracefully draped on the right side. A deep yoke of blue satin and a lace plastron banded with two rows of blue satin ribbon show on the bodice, which is perfectly plain and is finished by a fichu collarette of liberty gauze having collar and revers of white watered silk. This ties with a bow in the waist Deep cuffs of lace to match the plastron finish the other-

wise plain sleeves. The white leghorn is trimmed with ribbon and a wreath | of crush roses, and its strings tie beneath the chin, giving a very quaint and pretty effect There are several types of summery | hats which are affected at this late day by those whose purses enable them to choose headwear which will "be utterly out of date in a few weeks. Conspicuous among these are the enormous mull hats trimmed with a riot of full-blown roses. These are discarded after two wearings, at the pest Another kind of short-lived,

millinery is the lace hat of th* shepherdess type, with wild flowers tumbling over the edge, and soft bows of ribbon weighting the brim into becoming curves. These prevailed for garden wear, though the perky leghorn. crinkled into a lot of eccentric corners and trimmed .with upright roses, was quite as becoming and popular, and now remain in vogue to tempt the frost with their seemingly delicate bloom. A third sort is of Neapolitan straw woven with ribbon. In a perfectly ideal one the ribbon is grass green, and the trimming of the hat includes perky black wings and pink carnations. Finally comes a straightbrimmed straw, with a moderately high sugar-loaf crown, a wide satin band and a paste buckle holding a wide cravat bow in front. This is deemed quite the right thing for fall, „ and makes the girl with her hair parted severely and drawn down over her temples kok like an old-time picture,when she gets on her hunter's green top coat. Fall hats will be trimmed so freely with plumes as to make them a prominent characteristic. The drooping sort are likely to prevail. Lovers of the picturesque are already wearing them. Plumes three has the girl of the third sketch, and her gown is of a

sort which argues that her allowance is a large one. Of ivory crepon, it is garnished with ruby velvet and Venetian guipure. Its skirt is lined with silk and is trimmed at the bottom with velvet and applique lace. The bodice has fitted lining and a pleated vest or guimpe of ivory mousseline de sole finished with a guipure girdle which is open in the center. Ruby velvet furnishes, the belt and draped standing collar, and the large gigot sleeveshave slashed epaulettes edged with lace. They are also trimmed with narrow lace ruffles at the wrists. Costumes which will be entirely fashionable for several weeks ana which fully answer all the requirements for autumn plainness are shown in the last two pictures. They are within the means of the m~st economical dressers, if not already in their wardrobe, for they are styles which have passed successfully through summer's fiery ordeal to assured favor later, and because of their nattiness are well worthy of being revived next year. The Tuxedo coat has been nearly as plentiful this summer as was the eton a year ago. and had it not been for the liking for all sorts of elaborate accessories, it would have been worn even more generally. It now seems a more dressy garment than the eton aud more worthy of a place in next summer’s list of stylish garments. The one shown is partof an outing suit of gray flannel, whose perfectly gored skirt is finished with a deep hem and two rows of machine stitching. The jacket is fitted in back and has a short basque. Its fronts turn back to form shawl revers joined to a narrow turn-

down collar and each gigot sleeve has three buttons on the cuff.. The toilet is completed by a sleeveless vest of white mull fastening in the center with gold buttons. Sketched without her jacket is the next summer girl, but she will not long be able to thus attire herself. Her shirt waist is of the present fashionable shape and is of dotted percale, box-pleated back and front and with full gigot sleeves. A plain black satin belt confines this waist, which is not lined. The sudden curve of the hip line below the belt is no longer admissible.' Therefore, the average waist must be permitted to spread a little. To tell the truth, the girl who must have plenty of room for her lungs while on her wheel or in the gymnasium cannot with safety box them up for an ' evening or dancing gown. As to dancing, what color stands cut in a crowded ball-room and catches the eye instantly? Red is supposed to be the conspicuous color, but yellow is really more prominent. Little Miss La Mode seems to have discovered it, for her name is legion, and she wears yellow in all shades and on all occasions. Moire will have its nose badly out of ,oint in the coming season, for satin is to largely replace it. Silk-lined skirts are no longer to be the right thing; satin lining is demanded. Accordion pleating is plentiful, and for a long time it looked as if nothing could be prettier. Now there are fluted pleats which are more graceful, absolutely new, they last as well, they hang beautifully, and goods that have been fluted may be cleansed or pressed so as to come out without a trace of marking. Purple will have another try for popularity presently, in combination with black and —this a new venture—with stone color. For women of mature years the effect is at on;e dignified and modish. Copyright, 1894. The Maelstrom is a whirlpool off the coast of Norway, caused bv the meeting of tidal currents and dangerous to navigation during seme tides. Charybdis is a whirlpool off the Sicilian coast and Scylla b a rock near by.

FALL AND SUMMER STYLES BLENDED.

BOUND TO BE DISTINCT.

THE JACKET WHICH HOLDS OVER.

DESERVING OF REVIVAL NEXT YEAR.