Democratic Sentinel, Volume 18, Number 34, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 7 September 1894 — Page 4

THE OLD, OLD STORY. They call ft the old, old story, but to me bo sweetly new, When I can linger, sweetheart, and hear it told by you— Its music soothes the troubling of the heart that quicker beats, When the gladness of that story your dear voice soft repeats! They call it the old, old story, but in ali this world to-day. There is nothing that can lighten —that can drive the gloom away Like the throbs of pure contentment that come when it is told — lake the thrills of joy that tingle when the buds of love unfold ! They call it the old, old story, filled with memory’s golden glow, Reflecting back the brightness of a happy long ago— But eager the glad world listens to the telling of it yet. And, crowned with sweetheart’s kisses, joyful hears—to ne’er forget! —[Edward X. Wood, in Atlanta Constitution.

THE HONEST BURGLAR.

BY H. C. DODGE.

I am in the burgling business, and I maintain that it can be conducted as honestly as any other. Perhaps I am mistaken, but I certainly raised it to a much higher level than it was when first I selected that means of livelihood. My motto, “Honesty is the Best Policy—See,” is neatly engraved on all my professional tools and my title of “The Honest Burglar,” will go on my tombstone in due time, and when my strictly honorable exploits can be safely mentioned with pride .by my relatives and friends. I always made a point of seeking a foeman worthy of my steal. Never do I enter a house no matter what inducements its contents may offer — which has not the very latest scientific burglar protections. Ordinary locks and bolts I positively refuse to attack and carelessly left open doors and windows I disdain to make use of. I leave those little tidbits for dishonest burglars who take not the professional pride that I find so liightoaed and jrofitajjje and so cncour. aging Fo one’s self-respect. Now that I have introduced my honest self I’ll tell a story. A wealthy chap who had made his millions in a way I despise had erected a mansion with all the finest electrical burglar alarms known to date. Every door and window’ was doubly protected so the slightest touch after the wires were set would jangle numberless bells and turn on the lighted gas all over the house in a brilliant illumination. In addition to all that melodious display there were telltale steps on each staircase and tempting bits of silverware connected w’ith wires to the main battery lept in plain sight by the safe in the dining-room. All these imposing preparations, so expensive and troublesome for their owner gave to me a glorious delight, a looking forward to attacking them with a small boy’s Fourth of July enthusiasm. At last the battle night came, a nd with it Mr. William Mummer, my active partner in the business. Mr. Mummer was highly respected in the profession. Like myself, he never stooped to conquer, and was equally noted for his gentlemanly ways and sturdy honesty. Only once in his busy life was he ever taken in and done for, and I couldn’t blame him a bit, either.

You see he was making a professional call on a rich bachelor, and while putting things away in the handsome room he was painfully surprised by the sudden arrival of his host with some gentle’man friends. Not willing to seem intrusive, Mr. Mummer quietly slipped under tne bed to await an opportunity for departing pleasantly. From his snug retreat Mr. Mummer beheld six well-polished boots spread themselves comfortably on the Turkish rug, evidently in shape to stay awhile, despite William’s anxiety to catch the train for home. Soon the jolly gentlemen lighted cigars and commenced telling funny stories, ending each with a chorus of hearty laughter. William, who understood the proper etiquette of not mixing in where he wasn’t wanted, kept a becoming silence until a funnier story than usual was told, and then, after an agonizing struggle to choke his unfortunate mirth, he exploded with a tremendous “ haw-haw-haw!” which frightened the gentlemen shamefully. It is needless to say that Mr. Mummer had ample time afterward to enjoy the joke while taking a little vacation from business in the State Laundry. But he soon recovered my respect for his sterling qualities by a trick he played when cornered in a fashionable boarding house one night. While the landlady was ringing the big bell and the alarmed boarders were searching for him with guns, Mr. Mummer entered a deserted room and promptly went to bed with his boots on. There, with the blanket tucked tightly under his handsome chin, he lay yelling as loud as the loudest and grandly ordering the bold warriors with guns from his room when they rushed in to see if he Was being murdered. ’Twas lucky his bed belonged to a terror-stricken maiden lady who had sought refuge elsewhere—otherwise Mr. Mummer might not have been so very smart, after all. But he got out of his scrape at daylight and took his swag, too, and consequently his fame was undiminished by that episode. Now that I have irftroduced Mr. William Mummer, Esq., I will go on with my story. "fwas a black midnight in a dreary November. The sky was clouded and a lively wind was banging shutters and moaning through the swaying branches as Bill and 1 quietly stole along the dismally dark and deserted country road. With valises containing articles used, in our trade, and smoking pipes with stoppers on to hide their glow, we silently made good time over the wt and soggy ground till old Fort

Electricity, as we dubbed the object of our attack, loomed up before us. We knew the place well, for both Bill and myself had managed to secure work there when the house was being remodeled. Through a side hedge and across a large lawn from tree to tree we cautiously advanced, pausing frequently to observe and listen. Not asound.save the uncanny shriek of a screech owl, and the blustering, chilly wind soughing among the evergreens and creaking the bare treetops, fell on our eager ears. Thanks to the supposed superior protection of electricity, dogs were not on hand to interfere with our pleasure—though had there been we had a patent way of winning their friendship. When we got close to the house we made a circuit around it, and finding everything safe and comfortable, we prepared for business. Instead of attempting a guarded door or window, dr even cutting a hole through the clapboards into the parlor, as we might have done to avoid the wires, our plan was to enter through the unprotected roof. Taking from my bag an arrow, with a coil of fishingline attached, I placed it in a bow (which had been my cane while traveling) and neatly shot the line above and over the house, so that it fell clear of windows or obstructions.

In a few minutes a signal tug on it told me that Bill had found the arrow on ’tother side of. the house. Then I tied on a heavier line, light but strong enough to hang two ordinary men, and signaled Bill to haul away. Next I fastened on a well greased, high-power pulley block, on which was the flexible rope for our ascent, and gave the signal to haul away again and make fast. Soon Bill did so and, joining me, we got ready to go aloft. I went first, of course, being the senior partner in the concern and chief manager of my unpatented invention.

Comfortably sitting on a wooden cross-piece I pulled away on the endless rope attachment (one pound pull lifting four), and easily raised myself to where I could reach and mount upon the broad eaves of the shingled sloping roof. In a jiffy Partner Bill performed th? same circus act and was at my side.

Like two cats we quickly clambered, with the help of the cross line, to the scuttle, and then, with no trouble at all to such artists as we were, the bolt was forced and Fort Electricity was taken, with its garrison blissfully dreaming of the safety afforded by the latest burglar alarms. Softly creeping down the scuttle ladder we gained the garret floor and there, by the cheery light of our dark lanterns, we donneij our working suits consisting of long white nightgown and caps, and which, I am proud to say ,|I invented for occasions like the present. Being an honest burglar, I never considered it square to needlessly startle a sleeping person. The ladies especially suffer from nervous shock and fright and either faint dead away or scream so loudly that it is annoying to say the least. The men are apt to waxen out of humor or scared to death, and in both cases are generally beyond reach of argument.

But in our handsome ruffled nightgowns and caps we fearlessly glide in and out of bedrooms, make halfawake men turn over on their pillows so we can get their watches or pistols with no more than a sleepy grunt at being disturbed, and even get in bed beside them if there’s danger of actual discovery. You see our boldness and appearance naturally causes them to take us for members of the tamily and treat us accordingly. This surely is much pleasanter than burning sulphur matches under their noses or blinding their eyes with the rays of a dark lantern, or giving them a pointed revolver bluff or a billy crack on a defenseless bald head. Put yourself in their places and I guess you’ll fully agree with me. Well, Bill and I, like two whiterobed Santa Clauses, came downstairs and went straight to outwork, Bill taking the rooms on one side of the dimly-lighted hall, and I the others. Here let me say that snoring, which is usually offensive to the listener, becomes in our business a most melodious and soothing sound. Like Sancho Panza, I bless the man who invented sleep, and tnrice bless the woman, perhaps, who invented the sweeter snore, though I never do it myself, not having time at night like other folks. Breathing these blessings, I entered the main room, where the old general of the fort lay snoring for all he was worth. First I tackled his trousers and got his well-stuffed wallet, then picked up a young jewelry store from the bureau, then fished for his watch under his pillow. But the oldsnorer lay on it hard so it wouldn’t ceme. Shoving him gently by the shoulder I whispered “turn over.” Half opening his eyes, enough to see my white robe, he gave the usual grunt and obeyed. In a moment.his interrupted snore became louder than before, and the ticker was mine. To the next room I went and as easily helped myself. The third room, which was the guest chamber, I visited with equal success, and then, not' intending to upset the electrical arrangement on the first floor, I sneaked out in the hall to find Bill and skip out for good the way he had come. A dimly-burning gaslight made the darkness visible, and shortly I saw Bill’s noble ghostlike figure emerge from a room and, without looking in my direction, walk toward the far end of the hall. In one instant I noiselessly reached him and, touehing his arm, whispered: “Come, Bill; it’s time to git!” 1 The form turned around—but it wasn’t Bill. The fierce mother-in-law of the establishment stood before me, burning me with her eyes. Ere I could hide my surprised face and mode tly retreat—so she might I do the same—she got onto my nightI gown racket and like a tigress she grabbed my whiskers with both hands and shrieked “murder” and “thieves!” "robbery!” “he)*!”

etc., till she made me tired. I nevei felt so queer in all my life. At once yells and screams and howls of fear came from all over in a mad chorus; off went the burglaralarm bells and the rattles and up flashed the gas till the whole lower part of the house was brilliant. Luckily I had captured the pillowed pistols, or they’d have gone off too. At the instant a stalwart figure in white bounded out of another room and flew to my assistance. “Bill!” I gasped, “Quick! For your life! Pull her away!” He gently but firmly embraced the old lady’s waist and pulled while I tried to bite her worse than tiger’s claws. “Tickle her, Bill!” I groan* ed, since the pull didn’t work. That fetched her. She lost her grip—re taining, however, half my beard, and went for Bill. But he was too quick to be caught. Neatly dodging her terrible talons, he pushed her in a room, and before the terrified household dare show themselves we had. escaped through the scuttle and were on the roof. A’slide down the rope and our safety was secured, but we had not a second to lose. Hastily we tried to find our only means of flight. Like great lizards we crawled about in the darkness, but our efforts were vain. The rope was gone. “What’s up now, Bill?” I whispered. “We are, Tom,” he answered grimly, “we’ve been shadowed from outside and they’ve cut the rope. Nice trap for two old rats like we.” In spite of myself I shivered. “Well, what’s to be done, Bill? No use praying for aballoon, is there?” “Not much, pard,” said William as cheerfully as he could, “and no use trying the front door. There ain’t a lightning rod, either, to slide down on, and we can’t reach the water leader. I wish I was a bird.” “Well, we’ll both be birds—jailbirds—Bill, if we don’t do something. Think quick.” Now guns were beginning to shoot from the windows and we heard answering shouts from without. Evidently the house was being surrounded. “Tom,” whispered Bill, “I’ve thought. We must jump.” “Up or down?” says I, not relishing the job. “Down, of course,” grinned brave William, “into the big evergreen tree by that chimney. Now, Tomcome on.”

Bill skinned to the roof’s edge like a monkey, I after him. When over he leaped into the blackness and I heard the branches break, but no sickening thud on the ground, as I feared. Giving him time to get out of my way, I followed, and also held on the bending boughs. In a trice both of us reached the grass, and before we could start to run a dozen excited men with pitchforks and guns were around us, the light from the windows showing us to advantage. But luckily we had forgot to remove our nightgowns. ‘,‘Quick now 1” cried Bill, with wonderful presence of mind. “Save our folks in the house. The robbers are murdering them. They chased us out the windows. Smash in the front door and save their lives. Don’t you hear them scream?” Off rushed our captors and with axes they broke the door and entered to the rescue. Bill and I dropping our robes de nuit, took the opposite direction, gained the road, and laughed all the way home.—[Detroit Free Press.

TREES AS HISTORIANS.

They Tell of the Dry and Wet Seasons of a Century Ago. It has been found that the rings of growth visible in the trunks of trees have a far more interesting story to tell than has usually been supposed. Everybody knows that they indicate the number of years that the tree has lived; but J. Keuchler, of Texas, has recently made experiments and observations which seem to show that trees carry in their trunks a record of the weather conditions that have prevailed during the successive years of their growth. Several trees, each more than *IBO years old, were felled and the order and relative width of the rings of growth in their trunks were found to agree exactly. This fact showed that all the trees had experienced the same stimulation in certain years and the same retardation in other years. Assuming that the most rrpid growth had occurred in wet years, and the least rapid in dry years, it was concluded that of the 184 years covered by the life of the trees 60 had been very Wet, 6 extremely wet, 17 average as to the supply of moisture, 19 dry, 8 very dry and 6 extremely dry. But when the records of rainfall, running back as far as 1840, were consulted, it was found that they did not all agree with the record of the trees. Still it could not be denied that the rings in the trunks told a true story of the weather influences which had affected the trees in successive years. The conclusion was therefore reached that the record of the rings contained more than a mere index of the annual rainfall; that it showed what the character of the seasons had been as to sunshine, temperature, evaporation, regularity or irregularity of the supply of moisture, and the like; in short, that the trees contained, indelibly imprinted in their trunks, more than 100 years of nature’s history, a history which we might competely decipher if we could but look upon the face of nature from a tree’s point of view.—[New York Advertiser.

The Bolometer.

It is stated that Prof. Langley of the Smithsonian Institution has perfected an instrument called a bolometer, in which a current of electricity is passed through a very fine wire. The Resistance of the wire and consequently the strength of the current passing through it varies with the temperature, and by noting changes of current variations of temperature of the wire amounting to .000001 degree Centigrade (.00000047F.) are detected. With this instrument some hitherto unknown facts - regarding the spectroscope have been discovered.—[Detroit Free Press.

BETTER TIMES NOW.

BUSINESS REVIVING THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY. view* of Btulneas Collected by » Great Paper Express the General Feeling that Industrial Activity WIU Now QuickenBeneficial Changes In the Tariff. • Dawn Is Breaking. The New York Herald is, perhaps, the most important of all independent newspapers in this country. It is interesting to read what this non-par- ' tisan paper has to say of the new tariff bill and of the clique of Senators who blocked the pa sage of the Wilson bill and tried to prevent all tariff legislation. The Herald says: The views of business men and others in various parts of the country which will be found in our news columns may be taken as voicing the general feeling that the dawn of tetter times has come. There is every reason to believe that business will now begin to revive, finances improve, markets become more active and industrial activity quicken. That the outlook will

PHARISEEISM OF THE DAY.

THE PHARISEE—"Oh, Look at that Patch !"

be hailed by the people, and especially by workingmen, goes without saying,. In addition to this, the law itself which has been enacted will afford the country no little relief from tne burdens and blighting effects of McKinley protection. It does not embody the tariff revision which the people had a right to expect, and which they commanded in thundering tones at the polls in 1892. It does not embody the revision which the Democratic party was pledged to give, and for which its patriotic leaders struggled so gallantly. But, disappointing and unsatisfactory as it is, the new bill is a marked improvement on the McKinley law, and, moreover, its enactment puts an end to an agitation which was inflicting untold losses unon the country and pushing it the verge of panic. For failure to carry the moderate, judicious revision which the country needed and the people commanded, the Democratic party cannot, in our opinion, justly be held responsible. The representatives of that party in the House not only passed such a bill and sent it to the Senate, thereby fulfilling the pledges of the party and their duty to the people, but they' stood out for it nobly as long as there was any hope of saving it, and yielded only when they were forced to choose between the Senate bill and no legislation. For 4.. the obstruction of revision through six long months, with its consequent business stagnation and destitution among the working classes; for the defeat of such a law as the people wanted and the country needed; for the failure of the democratic party to carry out its pledges to the full, the responsibility must fall upon the petty ring of Democratic Senators headed by Mr. Arthur P. Gorman. Had the Senate contained a larger Democratic majority these men could have been stripped of their power for mischief as recreants to their party and public enemies, and an honest tariff bill passed months ago in spite of their deviltry. But, unfortunately, the Democratic majority in the Senate was so narrow that the Gor-mar-Brice cabal had it in their power to “hold up" the entire American people as well as both branches of Congress, and as everybody knows they did not scruple to ute that power with merciless disregard cf consequences, either to their party or to the country.

Many Beneficial Changes. While the new tariff bill is not ideal, it still has many good parts. Inorder of importance we mention: 1. Free wools and greatly reduced duties on woolen goods. In 1893 we paid $8,000,0)0 duty on $18,000,0u0 worth of imported wools. In the same year we paid $36,5)0.000 duty on $37,000,000 worth of goods imported. We probably paid ten times this amount to our home manufacturers because of the duties which permitted increased prices. As the new bill cuts duties on woolens in the middle the saving to the American people by this reduction will be about $2p0,000,0C0, or sls per family. Two years from now the product of our woolen mills will be greater than ever and work will be steadier and wages higher in these mills than ever before. Workingmen and school children will ba better clothed, and life will be happier and brighter to all because of cheaper and better woolen goods than have been worn by the present generation. Nor will the wool grower suffer. Prices of wool have declined steadily and rapidly under MeKinleyism,until they have now reached a free trade basis and we are exporting wools to England. In fact, prices have advanced about 10 per cent, during the past two weeks. 2. Duties have been reduced about 40 per cent, in the iron schedule. While many of these reductions are more nominal than real, they yet com-

i pel the trusts to lower prices and to decrease the difference between the prices of their goods for export and j lor home consumption. About 57.000,000 will be saved by the reduction of the duty on tin plates alone. Probably $100,000,000 will be saved by the reductions in the metal schedule. The duty on iron ore has been reduced from 75 to 40 cents per ton. If the Senate should pass the bill making iron ore free, the benefits will te still greater. 3. All kihds of wood and lumber are made free, and the duty on furniture is reduced 25 per cent. The people are the gainers by several millions of dollars by this change. 4. Plows, harrows, harvesters, drills, mowers, horserakes,cultivators, threshing machines and cotton gins are made free. These are some oi the articles that our manufacturers have teen selling cheaper to foreigners than to Americans. This shameful business i will now be stopped and our own farm- L ers will be treated as well as their foreign competitors. 5. Salt, binding twine, bagging for cotton, Chinese matting, burlaps and cotton ties are some .of the other important articles placed on the free list The duties on burlaps and grain bags made of burlaps amounted In 18UB-. to over $2,500,000. 6. Duties have teen reduced in all of the schedules except that of sugar,

and it is not yet certain that the reductions in this schedule will not exceed those in any other schedule. 7. The income tax has come and come to stay, until superseded by a better direct tax. The plutocrats, who have shirked all other taxes, and who will shirk this one to the full extent of their elastic consciences, have tried in vain to prevent the introduction of this tax. They have been unable to stem the tide of public sentiment on this question. All future tariff changes will be reductions. Let them come swift and fast. A Difference in Surranden. The “ghoulish glee” of the Republicans over the House surrender to the Senate bandits is almost frantic. Their gibes were invited; their joy is natural. . But will they intermit their each innation long enough to consider some contrasts with the Republican surrender in 1890? The first difference is this: The Republican surrender was made in advance, eagerly and without a fight. In return for campaign contributions and other favors the protected interests were permitted to write their own schedules, the trusts to name their own bounties. The member of the Manufacturers’ Club of Philadelphia who said, “We paid for this bill and are entitled to make it to suit ourselves,” revealed exactly the process under which the McKinley law was framed. The sugar trust got its raw material free and a rate on refined sugar which has enabled i| to make $30,000,000 in the past three years. The second difference is this: The Democratic surrender is deplored and was long resisted by the great body of the party. It was rendered necessary by the corruption of a mere handful, not by the complaisance of the many. The Republican surrender, however, was general and willing. There was not virtue enough in the party in Congress even to make a show of resistance. Mr. Blaine had to smash his hat in the committee-room to secure any modification of the schemes of the grabbers. As Hamlet said to the skull of another jester, so say we to Tom Reed of this contrast: “Where be your gibes now?”

The Tariff Hill. Defective as the measure is, it is still better than no bill. —Buffalo Enquirer. The Senate bill is not a bad bill. It is not as good as it might have been made. But as compared with the McKinley law, it is commendable in every particular. —Kansas City Times. IT is much to be preferred to the McKinley bill, and is a long step toward the practical reform of the tariff which the country has demanded and which the Democratic party has pledged itself to bring about. —Atlanta Constitution. While the senatorial compromises undeniably have marred an ideal, they yet have passed a practical measure of tariff reform more liberal in its reductions than any revision that was ever placed upon the statute books. —Boston Globe. The Senate bill is objectionable in many particulars, but in no particular is it so objectionable as the law it supersedes. It was better to take what could be had than to go back to the country empty-handed.—Philadelphia Record. It is undoutbedly true that the Senate bill, in spite of the subserviency to monopoly which *it carries on its face, is a distinct improvement on the McKinley act and a considerable step in the direction of tariff reform.—Detroit Free Pre’*.

WHAT WOMEN WEAR.

•STYLES FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO LOOK PRETTY. As the Summer Season Draws to a Close the FrlvoUttes of Toilet Seem to Become More and More Emphasized Overwrought Garments, Dame Fashion's Dotings. New York correspondence:

UMMER is waning, and meanwhile the frivolities of toilet seem to become more and more emit phasized. Gauze jp\\and lace, airy and flitting frills make even a fz simple dress a riot of rustling elaboyi! rations. Ends of /A lace or ribbon t o f'jjl catch-the summer ' breezy and float out beyond the wearer A are a pet addition Ito toilets, and a flying scarf, as they tKf® are ca’led, has even been attempted in bathing suits. De-

spite the current prevalence of such notions, the outlook for fall fashions indicates a season of more simple attire. The inference is thus plain that the last of August is seeing the final gasp of this long continued indulgence in overwrought garments. This applies to colors, too, for there is promised positively a rest from rainbow effects. All signs point to a reign of restful coloring and artistic rather than startling combinations of shade. This change, coming at a time when many fashionable women are making a shift from one resort to another, is not unwelcome to them, for they are enabled to appear in their newly reached place in entirely new outfits, which proclaim their newness by the very fact that they are of simple cut and blended colors. If their travels bring them to a mountain resort the change in dress is less noticeable, for the reason that mountain outing d resses are ordinarily simple affairs in which swell women may seem more dainty as they play at roughing it, or make pretense at climbing peaks. A thoroughly novel costume of this sort is presented in the initial sketch, and is by no means an expensive outfit, as its description will show. Compo;edof black

FALL AND SUMMER STYLES BLENDED.

ana white striped flannel and darkblue cheviot, its skirt is of the striped material, is side-pleated and has a tunic overskirt of dark-blue cheviot finished at the edge with machine stitching. The sleeveless vest comes from the stuff and buttons in front It is simply finished with a turned down collar. The jacket is very short and has a deep collar and revers faced with striped flannel, and cuffs of the fame. It ties with heavy blue cord and three smoked pearl buttons ornament each side. Women dress as carefully, however, at the mountain resorts as'they do at the shore, and since there must be gowns for dressy occasions, the change from elaborate to plain and from summer to autumn's modes is not completed in a day. The woman of wealth always takes pleasure in apoearing in a new and handsome gown so late in the season that it will be plain to all beholders that there remains but a very short time in which to make use of it. Thus in the dress next shown summer styles linger to an extent which will make it impossible in a few weeks, though it can be easily adapted, because the chief suggestions of warm-weather wear which it possesses are its color and the novel hat which tops all. Its material is white crepon, which is combined with sapphire-blue liberty satin. The underskirt is covered half way up with a band of satin, which is again trimmed around the bottom with a pleated ruffle of fine, gauzy, cream-colored lace. The crepon overskirt is gracefully draped on the right side. A deep yoke of blue satin and a lace plastron banded with two rows of blue satin ribbon show on the bodice, which is perfectly plain and is finished by a fichu collarette of liberty gauze having collar and revers of white watered silk. This ties with a bow in the waist Deep cuffs of lace to match the plastron finish the other-

BOUND TO BE DISTINCT.

wise plain sleeves. The white leghorn is trimmed with ribbon and a wreath | of crush roses, and its strings tie beneath the chin, giving a very quaint and pretty effect There are several types of summery | hats which are affected at this late day by those whose purses enable them to choose headwear which will "be utterly out of date in a few weeks. Conspicuous among these are the enormous mull hats trimmed with a riot of full-blown roses. These are discarded after two wearings, at the pest Another kind of short-lived,

millinery is the lace hat of th* shepherdess type, with wild flowers tumbling over the edge, and soft bows of ribbon weighting the brim into becoming curves. These prevailed for garden wear, though the perky leghorn. crinkled into a lot of eccentric corners and trimmed .with upright roses, was quite as becoming and popular, and now remain in vogue to tempt the frost with their seemingly delicate bloom. A third sort is of Neapolitan straw woven with ribbon. In a perfectly ideal one the ribbon is grass green, and the trimming of the hat includes perky black wings and pink carnations. Finally comes a straightbrimmed straw, with a moderately high sugar-loaf crown, a wide satin band and a paste buckle holding a wide cravat bow in front. This is deemed quite the right thing for fall, „ and makes the girl with her hair parted severely and drawn down over her temples kok like an old-time picture,when she gets on her hunter's green top coat. Fall hats will be trimmed so freely with plumes as to make them a prominent characteristic. The drooping sort are likely to prevail. Lovers of the picturesque are already wearing them. Plumes three has the girl of the third sketch, and her gown is of a

THE JACKET WHICH HOLDS OVER.

sort which argues that her allowance is a large one. Of ivory crepon, it is garnished with ruby velvet and Venetian guipure. Its skirt is lined with silk and is trimmed at the bottom with velvet and applique lace. The bodice has fitted lining and a pleated vest or guimpe of ivory mousseline de sole finished with a guipure girdle which is open in the center. Ruby velvet furnishes, the belt and draped standing collar, and the large gigot sleeveshave slashed epaulettes edged with lace. They are also trimmed with narrow lace ruffles at the wrists. Costumes which will be entirely fashionable for several weeks ana which fully answer all the requirements for autumn plainness are shown in the last two pictures. They are within the means of the m~st economical dressers, if not already in their wardrobe, for they are styles which have passed successfully through summer's fiery ordeal to assured favor later, and because of their nattiness are well worthy of being revived next year. The Tuxedo coat has been nearly as plentiful this summer as was the eton a year ago. and had it not been for the liking for all sorts of elaborate accessories, it would have been worn even more generally. It now seems a more dressy garment than the eton aud more worthy of a place in next summer’s list of stylish garments. The one shown is partof an outing suit of gray flannel, whose perfectly gored skirt is finished with a deep hem and two rows of machine stitching. The jacket is fitted in back and has a short basque. Its fronts turn back to form shawl revers joined to a narrow turn-

DESERVING OF REVIVAL NEXT YEAR.

down collar and each gigot sleeve has three buttons on the cuff.. The toilet is completed by a sleeveless vest of white mull fastening in the center with gold buttons. Sketched without her jacket is the next summer girl, but she will not long be able to thus attire herself. Her shirt waist is of the present fashionable shape and is of dotted percale, box-pleated back and front and with full gigot sleeves. A plain black satin belt confines this waist, which is not lined. The sudden curve of the hip line below the belt is no longer admissible.' Therefore, the average waist must be permitted to spread a little. To tell the truth, the girl who must have plenty of room for her lungs while on her wheel or in the gymnasium cannot with safety box them up for an ' evening or dancing gown. As to dancing, what color stands cut in a crowded ball-room and catches the eye instantly? Red is supposed to be the conspicuous color, but yellow is really more prominent. Little Miss La Mode seems to have discovered it, for her name is legion, and she wears yellow in all shades and on all occasions. Moire will have its nose badly out of ,oint in the coming season, for satin is to largely replace it. Silk-lined skirts are no longer to be the right thing; satin lining is demanded. Accordion pleating is plentiful, and for a long time it looked as if nothing could be prettier. Now there are fluted pleats which are more graceful, absolutely new, they last as well, they hang beautifully, and goods that have been fluted may be cleansed or pressed so as to come out without a trace of marking. Purple will have another try for popularity presently, in combination with black and —this a new venture—with stone color. For women of mature years the effect is at on;e dignified and modish. Copyright, 1894. The Maelstrom is a whirlpool off the coast of Norway, caused bv the meeting of tidal currents and dangerous to navigation during seme tides. Charybdis is a whirlpool off the Sicilian coast and Scylla b a rock near by.