Democratic Sentinel, Volume 18, Number 29, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 10 August 1894 — WORK BY THE WOMEN [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

WORK BY THE WOMEN

SOME OF THE VERY LATEST IDEAS IN DRESS. tome of tht Color' Mixtures Which This hammer’s Dresses Show Are So Load They Felrly Shriek Shades Combined Which Ordinarily Are Kept Separated. Fashion’s latest Freaks New York correspondence:

ARING are the color mixtures which thi3 summer's dresses show. Some of them fairly shriek, but since the dressmakers continue to put forth new and equally startling blends, and can always find courageous women to wear them, the current howl of hues may as well b e accepted a s fashionable. With ‘all the charming devices for trim-

mlng which arc permitted, and there really seems to be no restraining rule of modes in this respect, it seems as if the designers might have been content, and not have planned the midsummer and dog-day displays to be so garish. But they were not content with a prevailing fashion which permitted of so much variety as to afford every woman in creation a dress trimmed unlike every other woman's, but must add an increased complexity of colors. In consequence, shades are combined which are ordinarily kept separated. Thus scarlet and yellow join hands, with black added as a relief to the overstrained observing eye. The skirt may be scarlet cashmere, silk, or hop sacking. The fancy waist will bo of scarlet chiffon over butter-colored silk. Black satin will bind throat and waist, and a great bow of satin-lined black chiffon will hang with long ends at one side of the belt A hat of olack rough straw with black plumes and with a red rose under each peaked uplifting of the brim will accompany this, and will be trimmed by a bunch of violets

tied with green grass low down on the upper side of the brim. The use of black and butter color is already old, but here is a now wav: Have the skirt, collar, and sleeves of black taffeta sprayed thickly with laldon figures of butter lace, the bodies accordion pleated black chiffon, laid smooth ana oloso over a lining of the silk. About the foot of the skirt have a fluff of chiffon with butter lace frilled over it. These tutter-colored laces are in so great favor that such new uses are constantly being found for them. In the initial picture buttercolored guipure trims the dress, which is from moss green dotted silk, and is further ornamented by white silk and moss-green satin ribbon. The skirt is of excellent shape for a tall and slender woman, is very wide, and is pleated to the waist band, making it quite full in front as well as at the sides and back. It is garnished with a band of lace around the bottom. The bodice is made of dotted foula- d and hooks ut the side. It is alike in back and front, both having the long lace tab and yoke, but the ribbon garniture seen on the front is omitted in the back. The revers are of white silk, and the puffed sleeves aro finished with lace epaulettes. Black and pink is not a now combination, but when arranged with a pink striped black silk skirt and a black bodice covered with bloused pink chiffon, and worn with a black hat trimmed with pale lilac bunches and crush pink roses, all shrouded in pale butter net, the general effect is new enough to be worth trying. Olive green, heliotrope and black is another good mixture. Let the skirt be olive greon with heliotrope figures, the bodice black with heliotrope chiffon over it, and wear an olive green hat trimmed with violets, black wings, great rosettes of black chiffon and, if you like, a knot of pale b ue velvet. An even newer choice is made in the shades of the second dress shown, the striped silk of which shows pink and ?-reen and is combined with green aille. Its skirt is takon from the striped material and is bordered with green faille. Its skirt is taken from the striped material, is bordered with a fancy galloon around the bottom and

has an oddly draped overskirt of the plain green trimmed to accord with the underskirt The blouse shows the solid green and is gathered in the waist. Its trimming consists of a round collar of rich laoa topped by a black gauze ruohing and a unique ribbon arrangement fringed with lace. The sleeves reach only to the elbow, where they are met by 1 nj chamois gloves.

Aslde from thLi gown's brilliant colors, which together are but newly safe, its trick of ribbon and the handsome lace collar are both very pictuiesque features. They are sure to give favorable impression at this lime,when devices of ornamentation which possess novelty are eagerly sought after. Sailor collars of tuttar-colored lace sre worn with all sorts of dainty gowns. They lie low abDut the throat and often do not meet in front Sometimes they are placed so low that they roach no further round than to" the shoulders. Folded collars of bright velvet continue in favor. They are not the wisest wear for the throat in summer, but what does fashion ca o for that! The lace device at the shoulders of the next gown shown consists of three

small ruffles, which con-titute the heading of the jacket. The rufflos aro repeated to form u basque for the jacket and appear again as the big elbow puffs change to a tight lower rleevo. The shoulder ruffles may go across the back or not, as is preferred. The urgent draft on trimmings finds artificial flowers of beautiful workmanship profusely used for garniture of party gowns, as well as for millinery. Tho smaller blossoms bunched in close rosettes of color are favorites, and pretty effects are gained by matching in various flowers tho various tints found in the gown. A dainty little dress of silk-striped muslin, showing stripes of rose, sapphire and yellow on a pale-gray ground, is mude up over gray satin, tho muslin being looped high in shepherdess fashion over the latin skirt. At each looping comes a knot of dandelions, cornflowers and wild roses. The two first blossoms are knotted into rosettes, tho rosos spread loosely. The bodice is of irray satin, turned back in deep revers from the shoulders. An inner bodice of muslin turns its rovers over the satin, leaving tho nook bare. The latter rqvers are finished at the edge with alternate blossoms of dandelion and cornflower, and a folded collar of pink satin Is set thick with them. Tho sloovos are groat puffs of pink satin, covered with accordion-pleated gray chiffon, and finished at the elbow with tho same bloom. A branch of wild roses is laid about the edgo of tho bodice, and at tho Hide trails prettily nearly to the edgo of the skirt. For combination of color and general dainty effect tho dro s is to be highly prized, the touch at the sleeves being especially happy. If the throat is too pretty to hide the loldod collar may be omitted, but it makes a pretty harmony with the pink satin used in tho sleeves. With so varied an assortment of trimmings, methods of arrangement and possible colors, it need be a very simple dress which does not possess distinct features. The fourth costume which the artist presents is of ladies’ cloth and i* not at all an elaborate affair, but it nevertheless has two features of the sort which women are wont to observe closely and boar in mind for future copying. These aro the fan dra*

pery on the skirt and the epaulettes. Its draped bodice is worn inside the skirt, is ornamented by a fichu, and the epaulettes are trimmed with pleated mousseline de soie. The belt fastens at the side with a rosette of mousseline de soie, from which the drapery starts. The toilet may be lined with satin or tatleta. All summer long the overskirt has been gaining ground, but so many of its attractive features ha e been discarded that in most of the sorts worn there is little for the most rigid reformer todeplore. The polonaise ha sn't met with like favor, but fashionable designers have included it in some of their summer dresses, and thev appear to be preparing to launch it boldly into fashion's troub'ed seas by autumn. The last accompanying picture depicts one of its prettier forms. The stuff is cream colored c'.oth and is laced in back and garnished around the bottom with galoon. for which embroidery may be substituted. The skirt is finished by a ruffle of gathered satin liberty around the hem and tbo sleeves end in long cuffs. The double collarette is made independent of the gown and consists of embroidered cloth and satin liberty with a frill© of tulle as garniture. What is called the IS3O style of draping is becoming fashionable, and it is just the sort of overskirt which is suited to the women who is very wide below the waist line. The material is rather heavy and stri ed, and the overdress is of extreme funnel shape, fitting closely at the hips and spreading without folds toward the feet. Just below each hip the skirt is drawn up about four inches by a boxpleat. At these pleats is placed a spreading bow or a fluffy rosette bow of lace, and from the point of draping the skirt dares decidedly. The general effect is, of course, one of grqat widdi from side to side, but that is correct, and by contrast the hips, fltt.-d smoothly ju.t above the flare, seem to lose in conspicuous outline. (Copyright, (891.) A life of orime is often the result of running in debt.

UNUSUAL RIBBON TRIMMING.

RUFFLES IN THREES

SIMPLE BUT CHARACTERISTIC

IN TUB OVERSKIRT'S WAKE.