Democratic Sentinel, Volume 18, Number 27, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 27 July 1894 — FANCIES OF FASHION. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

FANCIES OF FASHION.

GREAT VARIETY IN THE STYLES FOR THIS SEASON. The Overdrew Is la Hl«h Furor IV*ted Mnallo Is Mach Used, and Ribbon. Are Arreaged for Finishing, to Match the Silk Beneath. Gotham Fashion Goaalp. New York correspondence:

HEN the summer reason is well advanced. garden or lawn parties are the funotions for which new gowns are specially pre'pared, and these affairs gather together as varied a lot of dresses as could well be imagined. Women clad in the richest stuffs touch elbows with others whose attire is composed of common fabrics.

but frequently the latter make the best showing, so much depends upon the gown's design and so great is the opportunity for achieving tasteful display bv ingenuity without great outlay. The overdress is in high favor, and the great variety of forms of which it is capable makes it at once a good means of attaining the so much desired distinct character for the toilet of which it is a part, and, to the economical, a method for making use of odds and ends. Muslins over silks are seen more often than ever before, and as the latter may he a wash silk the whole dress is thus within the reach of a slender purse. Dotted muslin silk is much u-ea and ribbons are arianged for finishings to match the silk beneath. There is a great fancy for gowns made of any light 6hade of wash silk with an overdress to the knees of muslin, the bodice a combination of both fabrics. A very pretty type of this sort consists of a tight fitting bodioe of the silk, over which is worn a loose blouse waist of muslin. A sash of silk is included which has several rows of muslin frills. While white is naturally much favored bright colors are abundant, and when skillfully 'combined are preferable, for this season's modes tend liittle toward simplicity, except in tailor gowns. Armure silk and saffron satin are used in the dress of the initial picture, which is an excellent example

of the current elaborate designs. Its skirt has painted panels of the pink silk garnished with jet ornaments at either side of the front. The latter, as well as the side back breadths, is bordered with cascade drapery >of the satin, edged with jet, and the hack consists of fan gores. The fitted bodice has a point back.and front, and is bordered with jet. Its deep square yoke is made of finely pleated satin finished by twisted folds of black satin ribbon having bows on each shoulder. Below the yoke there is a garniture of cream guipure, and the cuffs of the satin sleeves are similarly trimmed, while the standing collar is made of Mack datin and ornamented with a big black bow behind. The tendency to have the hat in accord with the gown and to have all accessories entirely consistent is very marked. This makes the economical woman s task all the harder, but also makes of her toilet — all whose features are harmonious—a so much greater achievement. The hat of the toilet just described obeys this rule, being composed of anemones and trimmed with Baffron loops, held in place by paste buckles and backed up by aigrettes. Shade hats are considered by many to be the correct headwear to accompany the garden fete gown, and bo thought the girl of the second illustration. She has it of while mull showily adorned in front with huge bows and upright ends. Its brim, which may be bent in any desired shape, is formed by a frill of the mull edged with guipure to match the dress trimming. A fine white lawn i i the dress fabric, and the rounded yoke has a heading ot guipure lace inserion and two rows of the some above. Below the voke the waist is very full and is gathered top and bottom. As sketched the gown has a standing collar, but, if preferred, the neck may be low, the top row of insertion outlining it Huge drooping

puffs make the sleeves, and the waist is belted in with a surah sash tying behind in a butterfly bow with heavily fringed ends falling to the skirt's hem. A ruffle of lawn edged with guipure lace to match the bodice trimming is the skirt s only ornamentation. The rage for moire, which was so apparent last spring, is either dying I outer, else it is resting upon the laurels then won and awaiting cooler days for its renewal Satin is being much I used in p ace of it, and this is wise,

because moire did not wear very wel. Satin is put on wash dresses, and when this is managed with due regard for the%ash tub, it is all very well, but when the finish of the sat n appears to be there to stay, the combinaP.on does not seem senaio e. DainW rigs are gotten up for summer wear of pinchecked wash si k, trimmed with black velvet ribb n and thin black lace. There is something very fresh and cool in the combination of crisp silk and dainty lace, and the ve.vet insures beccmingness. A costume for a brunette is the artist's next offering: let others beware! Made of red ailk crepe, its waist is verv full and droops a little at the belt. It closes a little to the left of the front, the fastening beginning where the shoulder seam closes at the neck. The sleeves are tight at the wrist, are puffed above and are ornamented at the top by vandyked lace epaulettes. A large how of white mull comes at the

throat, its loops reaching up beside the dainty chin. Considerable stiffening is employed in the skirt, which is without trimming of any sort Red satin ribbon to match the dress stuff is used for the belt, and its ends reach nearly to the bottom of the skirt As the trimming is placed at neck and shoulders, it is fitting that the costume should be topped by a showy headgear, so above them is a hat of black lace straw, its brim bent picturesquely, and set off at the back by a bunch of bright red poppies and in front ornamented by noduing red ostrioh plumes. Black plumes may be substituted, if preferred, but whatever the color each plume must wave in its own place and seem independent. They may unite for a fourth or less of their length from the base of the quill, but no further. From that point each must striotly mind its own busine <B. Of the summer’s color combinations, blue and white has great vogue, and robin’s egg blue makes a very stylish choice. The simple gown of the next picture is of satin striped gingham displaying these shades, white being the color of the satin stripes. Its only novelty is the cut of its bodice, the skirt being entirely plain and the sleeves conventional. A ruffle of the gingham forms a point in the back, comes across the shoulders in epaulettes and outlines the pointed plastron. Here they cross and continue to the under arm seam at the waist line, when they are fastened with white satin bows witn the usual long ends. Not less handsome are the chambrays with which the stores are now supplied at surprisingly low prices. It may not be correct to style such simple textures as rich, but the temptation is great when they show the exact colors upon which fashion has Bet heir approval in costly stuffs, copying the hue 3 precisely and following all the lovely blends. So, too, is the opportunity for women who, like Jenny Wren, make the fashionable exquisites'’ “try on.” With rare in the use of these stuffs, gowns from them may he accorded all the elegant touches which characterize costumes which cost ten times as much. Truly, these are days when much care can come of little expenditure. The last

dress pictured is made of a chambray of a pink so delicate as to hint of costliness, but these choice colors do not this summer seem to increase the stuff s price. It is trimmed in the manner indicated, with white wash lace, and the bows which confine the sleeve puffs are of white satin ribbon which exactly matches the dress goods. Two bands of narrow white ribbon, showing a line of pink between them, give the collar, end in bows behind and are ornamented with a big fancy buckle in front. A deep frill of lace trims the bottom of the full skirt. The dominant shade of pink appears in the large bows of satin ribbon on the hat, which is a white chip, further trimmed by a large blackbird. Very dainty are the muslin dresses made with ruffles to the knees, and having overdresses which fit closely at the hips and from the knees are cut in deep Vandykes. The bodice is made with a yoke cut in like Vandykes, which hang over the shoulders, and are lightly caught front and back. A triple row of little frills passes about the shoulders under l them. A folded belt completes the costume, which may be made of cotton muslin as well as of mousseline de soie. Skirt 3 f< r elderly ladies drag and train a little. For the young matron, they just esoape the ground. For the girl who is but newly “out, ” they clear the fltOr jauntily aDd give to the pretty foot a chance to see the world. For the fifteen-year-old girl, the skirts may be to the shoe t ps, and the younger girls wear dresses almo3t to the knees, as usual. Copyright, 1894. ‘ A circular issued by the United States Bureau of Education shows that in 1801 there were H,£ot libraries in the United States containing 1,000 volumes and upward. SwaLlows building on a house bring good luck, and to kill one is most no-

OF WHITE LAWN AND LAOE.

IN RED AND BLACK.

ROBIN'S EGG BLUE AND WHITE.

PINK AND WHITE.