Democratic Sentinel, Volume 18, Number 25, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 13 July 1894 — WHAT WOMEN WEAR. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

WHAT WOMEN WEAR.

STYLES FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO LOOK PRETTY. Balloon Sleeve* Are StlU in Favor—Wom- *•** Riding Habit* Have Experienced a Great Change—Shirt YVaUti the Dominant Part of the Outing Dresses. Gotham Gossip. New York correspondence:

__ LEEVES on fashiooable summer JSV dresses are quite %&§ as big as those worn in the spring 1 1A and winter, and jPjf the shape remains NK much the same rr 1 about the shoulj\l der and upper arm. It would JfjgW certainly be nonJw/ sensical to retain big sleeves till Jw hot weather was 'jjk at end and then i®L resort to tight -“fv\ ones, but it seems if the next KP? change would surely bring

small sleeves, though knowing ones still assent that in the autumn even more material will be put about the arm than is now used. Big sleeves are comfortable wear in hot weather, and the omission of the tight cuff still further permits of ease. Sometimes the big shoulder puffs end in a short tight cuff, little more than a band, but an even better finish is a frill of lace, or the sleeve puff is caught in at the elbow and ends in a frill of. the sleeve stuff ornamented in any one of a variety of dainty ways. Thus completed are the sleeves of the first pictured costume in this column, which is a very stylish dress in dark-blue flowered challie, the skirt having panniers of silk crepon with hemstitched edges. At the top the sleeves have challie straps fastened with velvet buttons, and the bretelles end in a plain belt that encircles the waist. The overskirt of the figured goods comes to about six inches of the underskirt’s hem, and is looped up at both sides, while the underskirt beneath is from plain blue challie pinked out about the edge. The sleeves of the second gown shown are much larger at the bottom than at the top. end just above the elbow, and are finished by bands of mousßehne chiffon. With them are worn long gloves, which is not so comfortable a thought, but summer maids, when dressing for garuen fetes, will first consider style and appearances.

The bodice of this dainty costume, which is composed of gray silk, comes inside the skirt, hooks in the center, and the draped plastron of white mousseline chiffon laps over. Its lower part forms a fitted vest, from which straps of the dress stuff extend upward to the shoulders. A belt of wide ribbon ties in front in a large bow, with fancy passementerie. The skirt may be either gored or circular, and has a front breadth of the mousseline chiffon, the oorners of the stuff at the bottom being ornamented, as shown, with steel passementerie. Even cooler are the sleeves on the next dtess shown, which are puffed full to the elbow and end in a lace frill. There is a suggestion of coolness, too, in the gown’s cut at the neck. The wholo consists of a slightlv trained skirt of cream-colored figured pongee and a princess overdress of gray crepon, which has a small vest of lotusrod sicilienne let in at the side seam. The vest is finished with large re vers of yellow taffeta, and a deep blouse plastron of white lace fills the opening at the neck. The gored skirt is lined with silk foulard. Women’s riding habits have experienced a great change of late and now are net unlikp street dresses. Tailormades are responsible for this, because the latter are now so much worn, and they combine so many touches of masculinity that the mannish suggestions have ceparted from the riding habit, till the only pronounced one remaining is the footwear. When women first took to the stovepipe and skin-fit habit, it was because it was about her only chance to copy the severity of a man’s get-up and she felt such a chance ought to be made the most of. Now the girl on horseback need not look a

fright unless she insists on it. Very swell effects are gotten out of chocolate cloth with scarlet waistcoat, putty color with white, and stone-gray with dark-blue. The jacket may button closely to the throat if the linen is to be avoided for any reason. Very slender women wear a bodice that has no skirts and which shows off the figure strikingly, while the old-time basque with the postilion back simply ruined woman’s contour. Shirt waists are the dominant part of outing dresses, and a change of waist seemingly puts" the wearer into an entirely different costume. . This is a point taken advantage of by many a maid of slender means, and by another trick she may make herself doubly en-

vied at little expense. She can easily give the impression that she has a sailor hat for each shirt waist by providing herself with a lot of hat bands. These are cut just the right length and have button* holed places for the prongs of the buckle to go through. The buckle is silver and a modest outfit is complete with one or two of them, which may be adjusted to each change of band, though it is better if each of the bands has its own buckle al l passed through. In this case the buckle has a little under row of hooks and these catch into tiny silver rings on the hemmed end of the band. There is just a single move and the new band is adjusted, buckle and all, and after being put in position it can be tightened or loosened. The ribbon should match the color of the waist or of the trimmings. It is deemed the very best taste to have the waist trimmed with ribbon and to have the band of hat and ribbon exactly matching. This sort is very stiffly filled ana has a decided rep. With a white duck gown, the swagger thing is a made band of duck that runs through a strap of the same, and fastens with a single pearl button, which fits in cuffbutton fashion. There is a fancy also for “studding" the hat band instead of running it through a buckle. In th<g case three dress studs are inserted along the width of the band, just before its tailor-made point, and go

through both thicknesses, holding the band quite secure. They may be connected by tiny gold chains, and the set of little studs formerly sold for fastening baby dresses are new dignified in the shop window with a placard calling them “hat studs.” It is much better to have 'souvenir” studs instead of purchased ones, and, if the summer’s men are nice, it will prove much cheaper, too —for the girls. While tailor cuts predominate for morning wear, they are away in the minority by the middle of the afternoon, when gowns cannot be too daintily designed. An example of tasteful elegance is shown in the fourth illustration, wherein heliotrope mousse line chiffon and black point d’esprit tulle are combined. The skirt is made of accordion pleated chiffon, and the overdress consists of the tulle, hooks in front, and has a vest of pleated mousseline chiffon which laps over. The pleated skirt is lined with silk, may be slightly stiffened, if desired, ana is fini-hed on the inside with a fathered chiffon frilL The bodice part as a fitted silk lining, and the tulle fronts are rounded at the bottom and draped from the middle of the skirt to the shoulders. The sleeves consist of large puffs finished with a triangular piece of tulle bordered with heliotrope and black tinsel galloon, and a deep heliotrope silk fringe. The long cuffs are plain. A current trick is to wear the belt loose, so that it droops at one side, as do the sailors’. It is claimed for this notion that the effect is prettier than the tight belt, but the 'ruth is that a tiny waist encircled with a manifestly loose belt looks smaller than ever. The

secret of this effect is, of course, that all neces.ary compression must be managed without giving to the belt any responsibility. The most becoming belt is a thick, heavy leather one that is made almost like* a man's; indeed, she is a wise girl who buys her belt at a men’s furnishing place, and then has it cut short and repunched to suit her waist. Such a belt worn loose is far prettier than the flimsv ribbon belt pulled so tightly that the'threads stretch and the filagree buckle is strained out of line. The final picture shows a nattv tennis costume for which blue and "white striped flannel, serge or cheviot will be serviceable. The gored .skirt is perfectly plain and the fullness in back is gathered The blouse is worn inside the skirt, hooks at the side, and is finished by a small black satin tie and white standing collar. The eton has pointed revers, turned down collar and double epaulettes, while the sleeves have big puffs that reach to the elbows, and long, light cuffs. The eton jacket should be made of solid darkblue stuff, either serge or cheviot. Ribbon bows are set on gowns in such erratic ways that sometimes a dress will look as if bespattered by a passing shower of ribbon knots. The only rule discoverable in this notion seems to be, get ’em on! The last fancy is for a bow set to one side 'of the yoke. This sort of bow is almost a pompon, so many are its loops, and from it ends float almost to the hem of the dress; that is, when not floating in the air, enwrapping the tile of the unwary passerby, fliching in the face of the gentleman in the seat behind, or attaching themselves to door knobs and arresting the wearer’s progress. Try one of the bows for yourself and see how many things they can do while you are doing one. Copyright, 18M.

There were 11,435,487 barrels of salt produced in the United States in the year 1893, as against 11,785,754 barrels in 1892, a falling off of 350,267 barrels. Each barrel weighed 280 pounds, making a total of 3,201,391,660 pounds.

GOWNED FOR A GARDEN PARTY.

OP STRIKING CUT.

FOR SUMMER AFTERNOONS.

FOR ANOTHER SORT OF AFTERNOON.