Democratic Sentinel, Volume 18, Number 23, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 22 June 1894 — WORN BY THE WOMEN [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

WORN BY THE WOMEN

SOME OF THE VERY LATEST IDEAS IN DRESS. Cine hmbroldertoa and Lacy Edglnx> Arc No* Freely V»ed on Styllah Street Dreaaea—The Dotted Veil I« Popular and with Moat Women Becoming. New York oorreapondencc

TREET dressed f very dainty afwTF fairs, if not after tailor models, and I their texture and trimmings are oftentimes wonders of tasteful adornu ■L*l me nt. Even cham* A Vy hr ay s and ginghams are so finely y woven and figured so handsomely that \ when skil If ully ft made up they are X\ fl ts o r anything *si\ but very dressy AT X occasions. Fine L embroideries and '* lacy insertions and

edgings are freely used for trimming, but there is no lessening in the amount of lace itself. These must be haymaking days for lace manufacturers, and the makers of guipure especially should be well on the high road of fortune. This lace is uied to adorn the dress shown in the initial picture, and from it are the deep sleeve cuffs and the wide bodice revers. Cream-colored pongee brocaded with mauve is the dress stuff, the underskirt is covered half way up with a band of pongee, and the overskirt is draped at the left side with a rosette of tne same stuff. The bodice has a vest of eream-colored mousseline de sole and a double bow of the same is placed at the neck. A wide belt of cream-colored ribbon fastens with a gold buckle at the side. Though it would seem at first thought that the neck and shoulders should be left pretty much alone in the summer months, nevertheless they are made to display all sorts of ornamental devices by the current rules of adornment. It all began with the big bows lieneath the chin. These are still retained, but other and much more elaborate devices are rivalling them in favor. Pretty neck affairs are made of white silk and consist of a little pointed yoke front and back, having a ruffle all around, which widens at the shoulders and narrows as it comes to each point. The ruffle is of white silk also, and is finished at the edge with several rows of baby ribbon, each row being a different shade. Such an accessory can go with almost any kind or color of gown, and will prove a verv dressy addition. When it is desired to set off

tha shoulders, as well as the throat, as much care and Ingenuity is frequently taken as will ordinarily construct a whole costume. For example, see the fichu of the second Illustration. Made of white mousseline chiffon and trimmed with black ohenilie, it has a yoke foundation and reaches in a point to the waist in back. The garniture consists of wired frills that stand out stiffly over the shoulders, the ruching around the neck and down the front being stiffened in a like manner. The dainty costume is completed by a big bow of the chiffon with ornamented ends. This model is a brand-new one and is commended to the summer girl who wants to look distractingly nugable and yet have a wire fence of stiffened ruffle a'l about her. Legitimate tricks of facial embellishment. of course, are few, but veils are permissible and stylish. All bizarre effects are utterly out of taste, hut the dotted veil will never go out because it is so becoming to the average complexion. The net must be fine, and the dots not too big. Some very delicate white nets are dotted in black, and where the plan of the costume is harmonious the et.fcct is good. Most veils are double width, and the most becoming to a woman with a beautitul skin is black illusion. It can be worn only once or twice and is expensive, but it is well to have one for special occasions. Brussels net comes in light weight, is almost as becoming, is durable, and, except with a very delicate or dressy hat, is suitable for all occasions. There is a fancv for passing the veil over the east and west effect of bows that flank the side fronts of many hats, thus emphasizing greatly the width of

the effect. When a large hat is worn, the veil is drawn entirely about the head, covering hair and all. This requires great care and taste in arrangement, because there must be no bunchiness anywhere and no untidy ends. In white veiling a very delicate wash blonde is becoming and veil and scarf are made in combination, the veil crossing in the back above the knot of hair, and being held in place by a jeweled pin. The ends of the veil 'are then brought to the front to eithee tie in a directoire bow,

or to bang from the shaulders to about the waist line. Real lace veils are in vogue for those who have them, but they do not lend themselves to tho drawing about the face that now seems correct, and they are not becoming hanging down straight as our grandmothers wore them. You see. the grandmothe r wore the veil to show it off. but her granddaughter wears the veil to show off the granddaughter. Five rows of jet spangles trim the blouse of the next pictured toilet, and will look to the wearer’s masculine admirer so like a barbed-wire armor that he will surely “Keep off the grass,” or, in other words, won't crush her big and carefully stiffened sleeves. Such a girl in such a garden-party gown surely needs some such defense. The fabric of this dress in rink mousseline de chine figured with black. The gored skirt is perfectly plain snd is lined with silk. The blouse has a long pointed ripple, and the tiny yoke and the standing collar are made of the figured goods, while the rest is black tulle over plain silk. The sleeves are finished with mousseline de sole frills. Shirt waists and blouses are seen in all forms and materials. In dimity the former are made with every simplicity, and are all daintiness and freshness. Gingham waists are very pretty, especially in some of the new plaids that seem just like the rich design in silk. Wash silk is used as much as ever, and for the more elaborate

blouses costly and perishable materials are chosen. Thus the pictured blouse is made from yellow satin merveilleux and furnished with a fitted lining fastening in the center. A yoke is simulated by three rows of gathers, and the full back and front are again gathered twice at the waist, the bottom finishing in a small basque. The sleeves are very full and are shirred four times, ending in a small frill The top is out long enough to permit the collar to be made fr< m tho yoke, and is also shirred and finished with a small ruching. The garment is alike back and front and closes at the side. While such elaborate blouses are worn, the very simple waist is equally stylish and has much to recommend it. It is made loose and in folds in front and Is drawn clo-e in tho back and at the sides. It disappears under a folded belt and has a high folded col’ar to match. Trim and pretty to look at and cool, too, it is not at all the untidy affair brought to mind when some one speaks of a loose shirt waist The girl who wants to make her own waists can risk it if she will use for foundation a lining planned after the fitted lining of some gown that really does fit. She will be safe if she will simply run the silk on at tho collar, along tno shoulder seams and around the armhole, being careful not to get too much overhanging bulk at the armhole. Treated front and back in this way, it need fit no more. A belt will shape the garment in at the waist line, an 1 the foundation will give lino to the general effect. Ono oven easier model to make has no opening in the silk either in front or back. The foundation bodice, of course, opens and the silk over it is full enough to let the wearer slip it on. The folded collar is fastened only on tho back and crosses over in front after the bodice is in place. These dressy garments are easily within tho reach of the woman who has a seamstress or

who knows how to do it all herself, but meanwhile why should not the poor girl who doesn t know how to do it and who can neither have a seamstress nor buy ready-made have her cool shirt waists, too? She shall if she follows these directions, and no one need be a bit the wiser. If any assurance were needed beyond a sight of the sleeves shown in the pictures of this article which have already been described, a glance at the final illustration should persuade the hesitant one to have ’em made big. Having cut them this size, stiffen them and keep them out full size until fall, for dressmakers gravely state that their sleeves will be even bigger. A woman needs .to have blind faith in her dressmaker to believe this, however. This last toilet is made of a straw-col-ored faille, the full skirt being made of alternate faille and ecru guipure stripes. The blouse has a yoke of guipure insertion and a belt of black satin, while the huge sleeves are composed of the plain faille. A full ruching.of black Illusion is worn in place of a collar. a::d the tiny hat is also made of black tulle, a ccbrd ion-pleated, and is trimm. d with black aigrettes. Many of the best models of summer millinery show much simplicity in the trimming. A single plume, a spreading bow and a handsome buckle is enough, but each bit of trimming must be allowed its own individuality, and there must be no crowding. Summer theater hats are mere wreaths of flowers setting low on the head, with loops placed in wing fashion on either side. Sometimes there is a top of lace, and an aigrette or bunch of notched ends of ribbon to tand upright on one side. The essential point is to have them picturesque and becoming. Copyright, IBM. Those engaged in the production of quinine, whether from bark or chemically, suffer with a peculiar skin affection, caused by the inhalation of the vapor from hot solutions of the drug. Fever is an accompaniment of this malady.

WIRED FRILLS FOR SHOULDERS AND THROAT.

A GARDEN PARTY BELLE.

BLOUSED TASTEFULLY.

STILL ’IS SAID THEY’RE TO BE BIGGER.