Democratic Sentinel, Volume 18, Number 22, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 15 June 1894 — GOWNS AND GOWNING. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

GOWNS AND GOWNING.

WOMEN GIVE MUCH ATTENTION TO WHAT THEY WEAR. Brief Glance* at Fanclea Feminine, Frivolooa, Mayhap, and Yet Offered In the Hope that the Reading May Prove Restful to Wearied Womankind. Gossip from Gay Gotham. New York correspondence:

HAT extrava- j Rant affairs these neck bows are, too! They are made of all materials, from stiff moire, which, when once arranged in the right directoire bow,prevents the wearer from even moving her tongue in her mouth for fear of mussing it, to soft crepe affairs, which tie gracefully, using u p yards and yards of stuff, and yet taking up very

little room. There are also pretty little affairs made of wash lawns, daintily finished with lace. The white lawn tie of some time ago is revived, but much elaborated. It may be in pink, pale green, or yellow. It must be said that the ties are becoming to most faces, and that they give a look of (daintiness to a toilet that is especially fetching in these days of tailor-made Be verities. Sometimes it seems as if the wearer had forgotten that it was possible to have them too large, but exaggerations will creep into any inode. The initial picture shows how prettily a face may be set off by one of these bows. Here the dainty chin is poised above a medium-sized bow of mousseline de soie, frills of the same finishing the sleeves at the wri. ts. The gown itself is made of gray suiting trimmed with white. The’ skirt opens at the right front to show a white panel, and is there ornamented with large gray satin bows that apparently hold the gray parts together. The jacket bodice has a white vest which hooks in the center of the front, and a white pocket flap on each side. The large revers as well as the cuffs are of the white stuff, and are garnished with small ivory buttons, and the loose fronts are confine! by two gray straps, as shown. Striking costumes which are at the same time in good taste are always of interest and ever sought after. Here is one well suited to a slender, even thin, woman, all that is required to make it look well being a round, child-

like pair of white arms and a smooth neck. It is to be of a crepe that is almost a chiffon made over satin. A flexible belt of silver comes right under the arms, the skirt falling full from this. The crepe is too fine to look full and the quantity of goods merely insures beautiful folds and plenty of them. The bodice is in surplice style, crossing over the bust, and it is cut to show only the smooth neck. The sleeves are big puffs at the shoulder, leaving the pretty arms bare all their length. The surplice ends tie at the back in a rosette, the silver belt being partly hidden in the back and spanning the waist prettily just below the surplice in front. The ckirt should not have a train and is prettier, if your figure permits, made ankle length. A ruche of satin fringes its edge. Long satin ribbons fasten to the belt and from them hangs an old-fashioned round fan, ostrich feathers set round a mirror, the stick of ivory. You will do your hair high on your head, allowing some di-tracting curls to fall over your ears. It seems hardly necessary to say that the gown is white and that you will wear flesh-white stockings which means hose of so fine silk that the flesh shows through, and white satin slippers. If the feet are tiny and with an instep that is high, no matter what shce you wear, for then you may risk the old-fashioned flat slipper tied over the instep with white satin ribbon. Altogether you will be a vision of oldtime loveliness. Hitherto the excessively slender woman has thought she couldn't, when it came to Empire gowns. If a pair of dimpled shoulders absolutely demand a chance to see the world, then carry the surplice effect below the shoulders and ha\e the sleeves off the shoulder entirely. But why spoil the quaint o'.d-time demureness of the gown to show a pair of off

shoulders which can get all the air they want in lots of other dresses? A stunning dinner gown, and a tasteful one, is portrayed in the second sketch. Its fabric is a metallic green satin liberty, made with a long train, and fastens in front. The bodice is cut V shaped front and back, and is bor.dered with deep cream guipure.

Reaching a few Inches below the waist the bodice is covered with a loose blouse of spangles, black tulle shaped to fit the dress, and caught only at the shoulder and armbole seams. The short sleeves are draped with the same. , Less striking, perhaps, is the third pictured gown than the two last described, yet it is sufficiently novel in cut to prove attractive. Made from black broche silk, it is prettily trimmed with jet spangles. The bodice is lined with faille and fastens in the center. It has a square yoke banded with spangles, and is alike in back and front. The fullness is laid in pleats in front and back and the silk is draped where it joins the yoke. The sleeves are ornamented by epaulettes that are attached to long loose bretelles, and the circular basque, which is also lined with faille, is garnished with two rows of jet spangle-'. The moderately widegored skirt is simply finished with a gathered ruffle around the bottom. For any but the most dressy wear of summer, jackets are more distinctly the thing than are capes. The cape is ail right for the elaborate occasions, but for the street, the beach or the usual country outing use the jacket prevails. There is a tendency to have gowns supplied with their own jacket to match, or, indeed, the jacket constitutes the bodies of the

gown, but it is safe to 'TLave one general all-round affair of mixed tweed, made very ship-shape and to be worn with anything. Fashion more and more strictly prohibits these economies, but practice them as long as you can, so as to encourage tho>-e who are obliged to. This jacket would be batter rather long, doublebreasted, and it should fit tightly in front and back. Last sea-on's loose front shape is not made this summer, though if you have one left over, wear it-confidently, for mere saying so is not going to make those jaunty affairs dowdy f r several seasons yet The genuine English bag coat is seen occasionally. It is not pretty and must really be worn by a woman just suited to the style and the swagger'necessary to make it “go.” Otherwise she will look like a left over from no one knows where, who is sorry for it The jacket sketched here is in dark mode cloth trimmed with dark-green silk. It is tight fitting and is finished by a circular basque garnished with silk in the manner shown. The garment hooks in front and has a silk turned down collar to which silk loops with pointed ends are attached, the points reaching to the waist line. The sleeves are finished with pointed silk cuffs. White gloves are again the thing for the street with the present change of gowns. It is also true that you may use your old-time long white gloves on the street. The glace kid is in the better taste, and twenty-button length may be used with ginghams or with any but dark-cloth gowns. Now that long evening gloves are not in vogue for evening wear, you can often get long white gloves as cheap as the shorter street gloves. For choice the long whits glace kid is under the circumstances the good bargain. It will wear longer than a shorter glove, because better kid is put into long than into short gloves. Besides, white will clean forever, and will in the present fashion go with anything. A promedade coat of brown Himalaya cloth is presented in the last nict-

ure. It has a gored and pleated skirt, lined with brown satin liberty. The double-breasted bodice part is tightfitting and is sewed to the skirt at the waist. It has a triple collarette of brown cloth, a turned-down collar of satinet, and large revers, pocket flaps and cufis of white cloth. The skirt part is laid in a wide box-pleat in front and hooks invisibly, the left side of the pleat coming over. With the cloth tailor-made are worn heavy gloves and an English straw walking hat, either with a creased crown or the newer bell-shaped box crown, a jaunty and rather unbecoming affair which is just coming into vogue. These hats should set well on the head if they are to look as they are intended. The American woman seems to believe that her hat has become uncomfortably tiny. With the gingham you may wear a toque without brim and with a roll of the dress material laid about it, a smart tie of the same on one side, and a rose of just the right color on the other side. With the duck suit J, white sailor trimmed with a band.bf ribbon may be worn. A great drooping leghorn with its brim weighted into becoming curves about your face by a wieath of rich roses is suitable with a lawn dress. If you want to economize you may omit the special hat for the gingham, and wear the one planned for the duck. That for the cloth dress will hardly do, became that ought to be dark, and'hats for wash dresses should be light. Copyright, 18W. I

While fishing last year in Bowery Bay, New York, ex-Aid. Smith, of Astoria, lost his vest containing a valuable watch, overboard. Recently, during a heavy storm, the vest, with the watch still in its pocket, was washed ashore and i estored to its owner.

PLANNED TO IMPRESS.

A BODICE ALL A-SPARKLE.

OF ALL-AROUND USE.

WALKING COAT.