Democratic Sentinel, Volume 18, Number 21, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 8 June 1894 — GOWNS AND GOWNING. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

GOWNS AND GOWNING.

WOMEN GIVE MUCH ATTENTION TO WHAT THEY VEAR. Brief Glen ore at Fancies Feminine, Frlrolona. Mayhap, and Yet Offered la the Hope that the Reading May Prove Beetful to Wearied Womankind. Gossip from Gay Gotham.

AY brought no lessening in the width of sleeves, and there are no indications at present of an immediate or approaching decrease in their size. The sleeves which are at pressent most fashionable give to the waist an appearance of slenderness, a result produced by the highly exaggerated shoulder width. A feature which makes the sleeves seem even larger than ever before is the fact that they not droop over the elbow, but are

often stiffened to stick out from it. Height, of course, is not permissible, and the more the fullness can be made to spread out from the arm, the more fashionable they appear. To attain this result lining fabrics are used which will stiffen them sufficiently to keep them distended, but care must be taken that no appearance of blockiness results. With so much attention given to the one consideration of size. there have been few new sorts of sleeves offered. A stylish sleeve is in Queen Anne shapj and a bow of six long loops being arranged in groups of three, separate! by a small ribbon strap run through a fancy buckle. These loops fall over the i leevo and lend the desired shoulder slope and tho equally necessary volume at the same time. This device is applicable to sleeves which are somewhat out of data. As has been indicated, there has been little encouragement for designers of novelttes in sleeve shapes, but one which has just beon put forward is sketched in the initial picture. Those sleeves are of the full width, though their size is somewhat concealed by their being draped at the top to attain an epaulette effect, and by their being again caught in tho center a little below the epaulette. That results in a drooping sleeve, beneath which there is a tight sleevo to a little above the elbow, which is finished at the wrist with b band of embroidery. Striped modo colored doth is combined in this toilet with black silk. The underskirt is of plain silk and panels of pleated silk are let in at both sides. The drapery is piped with blaok and opens to show the panels. The bodice is draped over a fitted lining, and is alike both back and front. It should be ap-

parent that this model 1b only suitable for an extremely slender figure. Last season saw a few dresses of striped duck While women were inclined to dislike the looks of these gowns, they must have on the whole made a favorable impression, tor> this summer finds them plentiful, and even plaids are attempted. The writer beard two young women comparing the latter sorts, and they decided to accept a large plaid, “so that it would not look like the jumper of our ash-oart man.” The dress of the second picture is made of duck in about the largest plaid whicb is yet offered. Its skirt is moderately wide and quite plain. The jacket is lined with he ivy white pique, both sides turning back in big revers. and beneath there is a double-breasted belt of pique finished by a narrow black belt fastening with a jet buckle. A bow of white silk mull is worn at the throat, and a jaunty sailor hat, trimmed with a bow of white ribbon at the left side, and with its edge of fancy straw, accompanies the get-up. The parasol is of white silk, with a deep ruffle falling from its edge. The coaching parasol of last year which is a little faded may this year be freshened up by covering it all over with little lawn ruffles of figured goods showing a color to match or harm - nize with the color of the parasol. From a scarlet parasol a delightful one may be made by having the ruffles of lawn figured with scarlet carnations,

sach little ruffle edged with several rows of narrow ribbon, one row scarlet, sne row pale green like the foliage in the figure and the third row brown for the stems. Chiffon covered parasols that have been kept over from season to season may bo stripped of the messy

chiffon and hesiartifmo by fresh frills of wash blondo edged with ribbon or with little ribbon frills. Of oourse, the duck suits are moetly tailor-made, and the unusual variety of the material is accounted for by the prevalence of the tailor-made girl Between the severity of the tailor cut and the great elaboration of the many overskirt styles there is a vast difference, and it sometimes happens that each fashion makes so strong an appeal to a young woman that she will endeavor to combine the two In ordinary hands this process will not result in anything at all attractive, but in this third picture is shown a costume furnished with the popular pointed apron overskirt, and at tne same time fitted with a jacket bodice and a doublebreasted vest. The whole is so nearly half wav between the two widely different modes that it is difficult to say of whioh it partakes the most. If, however, the carriage of the maid herself is taken into consideration, there can be no denying that there is in the squared shoulders and in the way that the head is held a strong likeness to the genuine tailor girl. The costume is made of a moss-green suiting, combined with mode-colored clotn and trimmed with green passementerie. The gored skirt is of the green suiting and the overskirt is trimmed with the passementerie. Tho vest is of the mode cloth, as are the sleeves. Two huge buttons ornament each front of the jacket, and the lace jabot is put at the throat. As an offset to so much that is entirely plain, there is often a high degree of fancifulness shown when elaboration is attempted. Isn’t the thought of a gown covered with quilled ribbon from foot to waist enough to thrill a

woman’s heart? Some of the imported street dresses are just that, and, for fear that some economic-minded damo may accomplish such a gown when ribbon is oheap, the gown must not be made of ribbon, but of a material that has all these little quilled frills in the weave. This is a good gown to select for description to the man of family. He will be glad the desoriber is such a sensible little thing and never spends her money so foolishly. Thon possibly he can be brought to consent to a rainbow chiffon garden cloak. This consists of a long round cloak that reaches in Fled Riding Hood shape well below the waist, ana is made of delioat j China silk. A series of frills cover it all over, and they are all of different shades of chiffon. Besides this there are a lot of little bows and ends of different colors, a bit of hood that is a lovely crumple of color and frills, and that, for all it seems so small, comes down about the face when the hood Is drawn. This hood gives a shade for every pet point of your lips, cheeks, hair, and eyes, and makes your face look like tho queen rose of a bouquet. If ever a lain should come up—but if you are going to Indulge in a rainbow chiffon cloak you want to be above thinking of rain. Of fanciful device is the young woman’s toilet next presented. Made of figured suiting, its draped skirt is looped up by a largo bow, from over a plain cloth underskirt. The bodice is made of silk and the lining hooks in the middle, while the odd plastron laps over and is apparently fastened to the small lace yoke by two fancy buttons. Over the bodice is worn a tiny jacket of dark silk which has large revers and turned down collar. The sleeves are made of the same material as the bodice and have lace epaulettes. They

are trimmed with full watered ribbon bows at the elbows. The time was not long ago when moire was not a stuff that bad any charms for any but the stately and queenly matron of at least middle age. Then it was a fabric of so rich a pattern and so great brilliance as to seemingly unfit it for youth. Now it has become a thing of the daintiest shades, and in the many new varieties put forth since Its use became so general there are found the most., delicate designs. Beauteous blossoms are scattered over its changeable ground, shot effects abound, it is dotted with satin, and flowered and striped sorts are without end. Its coloring are even more varied, and it has beon so transformed that it is now us suitable for the young as the old. Silk and woolen fabrics are very stylishly combined and gowns so made arc more acceptable than those solely of silk, unless the silk be of the very best. A particu'arly rich combination is a dress of crocodile crepon made up with watered silk sleeves, waiscoatana revers and supplied with a moire ribbon sash. In the theater toilet of the last illustration the black watered silk is used with rose pink cloth. Besides the sleeves there is a deep yoke of the silk to which the sitting is gathered with a small head. Over the shoulders are straps of gold and pink embroidery and a pointed belt finishes the bottom. The skirt is gored, the side gores being laid over the front breadth to imitate a panel, and is untrimmed. Copyright, 1894. Bosouit’s late' pamphlet, *Man of the Nineteenth Century, * says that only one man out of eaoh 209 attains a height of over six feat

OF PLAID DUCK.

A COMPROMISE.

NO TRACE OF TAILOR HERN.

THEATER SEATS NEED BE WIDE