Democratic Sentinel, Volume 18, Number 20, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 1 June 1894 — GOWNS AND GOWNING. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

GOWNS AND GOWNING.

WOMEN GIVE MUCH ATTENTION TO WHAT THEY WEAR. Brief Glaums at Fancies Feminine, Frivolous, Mayhap, and let Offered In the Hope that the Reading May Prove Restful co Wearied Womankind. Gossip from Gay Gotham. New York correspondence-

i STEP in fashions A —though critics / \ may call it more L l the motion of a S V\ pendulum than a steady advance — t} has replaced £ J braid *ith gu i- / pure for bodice trimming, and the latter Is very . freely used by \ those who can afiotd it. In the accompanying \\ picture it is ap- ' pliqued about the \\ bottom of the fj \\ skirt in deep van- \ \ dykes in ecru shade, but it is seldom called in-

to play for skirt adornment, and in this costume it could be replaced by a silk fold or ruching. The gown would then be much less expensive and almost as handsome. The stuff used is a fancy light suiting of mixed silk and wool. The lining of the bodice fastens in the center, and the top laps over and has a yoke of shirred maizecolored India silk. From the bottom of the yoke extend three black silk straps that terminate in the center of the belt in front, and are topped by black silk bows. The toque worn is of black straw, and is garnished with ribbon, flowers, and velvet tie strings. A brand-new notion in millinory results in a sort of idealized tam-r-shant-ers, made in each case of material to match the gown worn and most daintily embroidered and jeweled. Some of these are square, some round, and some three-cornered, and they are mostly set on one side of the head. By “crown” is meant the head band upon which the hat rests and shapes itself to the head. Often the crown is covered with flowers as far as it is seen. In some cases the tarn part—the soft part that gives its character to the headdress—is tipped away over from the head band and rests softly against the head to one side, while*on the other the band is exposed and the folds of the soft crown stand up in curves. Against this upright part is placed a cluster of soft plumes, which sweep over the top of the tain, with tips curling to the opposite side of it and resting on the hair. In one case a curious and trying effect which a handsome face will stand splendidly is the drawing away of the tarn from the head band right in front The tam is then pulled well down on either side to almost below the tops of the ears, giving a curious Napoleon

effect, and from the back the top of the hat presents a toboggan-like appearanoe. Therp is no trimming, except that the pead baUfl showing iu front is drawn through a long,'jewe’ed buckle, and a knot of ribbon is set jauntily against the upfolds of the soft top, where it is drawn away from the front In straw there (appears a dainty novelty which consists of a disk of soft leghorn that to have a fluted rim and is tied down over the face by a broad, soft sasp ribbon, tying in a big knot under (the chin. These notions are quoted because they are so well adapted to (anybody's means and are so very pretty. Any woman ought to be able to Construct a tam from what may be lfeft of her silk gown, and as the only rule of its construction is that it shall be becoming, she ought to get a good effect out of It. Besides, she can insist that she has good authority for the correctness of her idea. Above the pretty face in the second picture there it a hat of moss-green rice straw trimiped with bows of watered silk ribbon and bunches of primroses. The briib is caught up on the left side, and a cluster of flowers lies underneath the brim next the hair, in pursuance of a lately favored trick. The costume which this hat accompanies is of ash-gray crepe garnished with moss-green mousseline de soie and black jet galloon. The skirt measures three yards and the overskirt is draped at the right side. The bodice is made entirely of accordion-pleated mousseline over a fitted lining that hooks in the center of the front. A yoke is imitated by a land of jet galloon in back and front, straps of the same going over the shoulders, with pendant garniture of large jet bead fringe. A silk cord finishes the bodice,

with ends hanging to the bottom of the skirt. The sleeves have large puffs, of moss-green silk and tight mousselice puffs that are also trimmed with jet spangles. To complete the outfit a parasol of moss-green silk with a handle of natural wood is carried.

A first-rate device for a slender wom- [ an, but to be avoided by any one who is fearful of looking large, is shown in the next sketch. Inis is the tab which 'starts at the back of the short cape in back, acd extends over the shoulders and down tne front nearly to the bottom of the skirt. These are of coarse net set with soangles in different size, and they may be counted on to lend an aopearance of width to the wearer. The wrap itself is of accordion-pleated mou-seline chiffon attached to a short yoke foundation and fastening at the side beneath the left tab. It consists of front, back and epaulette parts, the latter cut in points over the arms. Attached to the tabs at the shoulders are frills of heavy guipure and chains of let hands show across the front. The hat in this picture is a simple sailor, with white crepe twi-ted about the crown and ornamented with a bow of white gros grain ribbon. The parasol is of white silk with handsome mother-of-pearl handle. Parasols were never more dainty, and the only requirement is that they harmonize with the gown. They are shown in all the pretty wash silks, ginghams, swivel silks andlawns, but there! anything that is pretty to make a dress of is suitable for a parasol. It is not now as it used to be. that if you were going to have a so-called ‘wash parasol” it must be one planned to go with a dress of the same goods. Now any pretty wash parasol may go with any gown with wnich it harmonizes, and thus a lawn pasasol is seen with a wash silk gown, and the observer only says “How pretty!" Indeed, many of the wash materials of the season are much brightened with silk and really look much like silk, so that you might as well have your parasol of wash goods anyhow. Young women and misses resort frequently these days to accordion-pleat-

ing for their dresses, and a good model of those gowns is the artist’s fourth contribution. The material is crep in delaine and it is made over a fitted bodice lining and a bell foundation skirt. The lining of the bodice hooks in the center and the accordion-pleated Dart laps over and fastens at the shoulder and side. The garniture consists of a lace collar made of bands of insertion, to which the lace is gathered, as shown. The sleeves have pleated puffs and long lace cuffs. Around the waist comes a ribbon belt wound around twice and tying in a bow with different sized loops and two long ends. A round hat of straw is worn which turns up in back and is trimmed with ostrich tips and a full ribbon bow. The hat which the sketched wearer holds in hand is composed of round lace straw trimmed with lace, which is gathered closely to the crown and falls in a ruffle over the brim. The hat rolls up slightly in front and two ostrich plumes are placed there a little to the right of the center. The English walking hat in many different designs is the fashionable hat of the hour. The brim is rather wide and rolling, the crown is oval and cleft, and the trimming is a wide fitted band of velvet or moire, with a bunch of cock’s feathers at the side. This is the usual sort. A square crown, somewhat bell-shaped and quite high, with a brim shorter in front and back and wider at the sides than the other model, is a little more select, arid comes in lace weave, or fayal, the crown of Dale-green or bright yellow, and the brim of black in the same weave. For trimming a fitted band of black and, perhaps, on one side a couple of plumes and a buckle suffice: but this style of

hat seldom shows the style of trimming which spreads to the sides. Very stylish hats are of light straw in this sort of shape, with a narrow black ribbon band knotted flatly in front and with ho further trimming. These hats are worn with all sorts of gowns, but they especially adapt themselves to the summer tailor-made fashion. Heretofore the sailor was the only thing a woman c mid turn to for wear with a tailor duck or drill dress, and the sailor is undignified for many women. The hat of the final sketch is a reminder that whole birds are still used for trimming, though not verv generally. It is odd that those folks who see in this method of adorning millinery a deal of unnecessary cruelty to feathered creatures should have been so pleased over the late styles, which used wings, rather than’ the entire bird. When however, it is remembered that six and even eight wings were placed on one bat it is difficult to see any improvement. A blackbird was sacrii ced for the hat just mentioned, which was of mousseline de sjie, and for further trimming there was a garland of roses and a pompon of mousseline in back, and a cluster of roses in front. For a short summer cape, this picture, too, presents an exc llont model. It is pleated at the shoulders and attached to a yoke made of vandyked guipure. The full rUching at the neck is composed of finely pleated mousseline de soie. The garment is round in back, but shorter over the arms, and ends in points in lrout. Such capes are an excellent proto ;tion of summer evenings and many dainty shapes of them are offered. (Copyright, 1894 J

AN UP-TO-DATE GET-UP.

FOR SLENDER ONES.

TWO HATS AND A MISS

A BLACKBIRD ALIGHTED AMID ROSES.