Democratic Sentinel, Volume 18, Number 19, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 25 May 1894 — FANCIES OF FASHION. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

FANCIES OF FASHION.

REAT VARIETY IN THE STYLES FOR THIS SEASON. Heavy White Petticoat* Xo Longer kt Vo<ne—An Outdoor Drew for a Yoons Matron—Walatooit* Are AU the Ba*e— A Pretty Scnrf. Fk*hlon» Foible*. New York oMreepondenoe:

< ETTICOATS of yfrthe sheer printed jjLlylawns are tnepret--4 tiest things imagJ A inable for summer wear. Choose for them any soft collar®* or >ng yon like, I'j*#/ give them plenty fidrJ of ruffles and make *4* them ankle short. \ The heavy white 11 skirt with PamJi burg embroidery 2*o is all gone by. A jqA little lawn skirt made of sheer stuff with a tiny rosecolored stripe through it, has each flounce buttonholed along the edge with rose-col-ored silk,and there are five flounces

set in a little cluster about the edge of the skirt. Skirts of heavier material, such as cambrics and fancy cottons, are also used. An especially pretty one is striped on a white ground with a bright -china" blue, that pretty turquoise shade which washes so well and which in combination with white has a way of looking cleaner than anything else in sight. Scarlet waistcoats are worn with all sorts of colored gowns. A combination accepted by handsome dowagers of fine figure and presence is a stone gray or lead color smooth cloth for skirt and umbrella coat, with high scarlet cashmere waistcoat A pique edge shows above the waistcoat on some very correct dames, and the linen is white, worn with a black tie. A black hat ■is worn with a very low crown and so narrow a lace straw brim that it does not exceed the dimensions of a toque. The brim lifting slightly at the center in front, scooping down either side, rolling back over tne ears and fitting down closely in the back, is set with a bright red flower or bunch of flowers, laid closely either side of the uplift in front At the back of

the hat a wide bow spreads sideways. There is no other trimming. This shape of hat is much worn by women of gray hairs and of the somewhat severe dignity that our stylish elderly matron develops. The dignified lady of this type who wears a fiat with a stiff brim, or with a brim turned back from the face, becomes grenadler-llke at once and really terrifying. Turn to the initial figure, and there is shown an outdoor dress suitable for a young matron. Made of light novelty cloth, its jacket bodice has a fulldraped plastron and collar of old-gold moire, and the skirt is garnished in front with nine rows of lace. The toilet oould also be made of plain cloth, serge, dark-blue cheviot, old red or green suiting with surah, bengaline, or fancy silk in place of the moire. A visiting toilet of gray silk is the artist’s next contribution.’ The shirred yoke is of silver-gray gauze, having three bands of insertion laid against the lining and showing faintly through the gauze. The pleated skirt has a foundation of plain silk, is three yards wide, and is finished around the bottom with a small pleated ruffle. The jacket bodice is oi gray cloth, and has long basques that may be separate and sewed on, or cut in one witfi tfie rest. The vest-like front is pointed, and the edges of the whole bodice are ornamented with a narrow spangle embroidery. The cloth hooks in front, and the yoke at the left shoulder. The sleeves have two caps of plain

A very pretty fashion of making up the dainty striped lawns is a fitted boaice with a yoke outlined by a fall of lawn finished with five rows of narrow black velvet, the yoke itself being covered with hoop rows of the same velvet The skirt is made prettily full, and a flounce a half-yard wide and edged with rows of the narrow velvet is sot as high as the waist line in the back, and dips till its edge is even with the skirt edge in front The effect is as pretty and not as elaborate to manage as an overdress. Such a dress carried out in a lawn, striped witfi a clear sapphire blue and trimmed with black

velvet, is worn with a yellow sailor hat bound with white ribbon standing in horizontal loops to each side of the front, and with a great knot of blue bachelor buttons just in front of each loop. These flowers stand high on their stems, which are bound close together. It is quite a trick to bind the stems of short stemmed flowers closely together and so mount a bunch of violets, pansies or forget-me-nots on

high in a round pompon-like bunch. Black violets with green stems are much used in this way, one remembered little flat toque of black leghorn having practically no other trimming. An odd and picturesque hat is shown in the third sketch. It is made of white straw trimmed with white lace and black feathers and accompanies a tasteful and simple dress of navy blue glace foulard dotted with pea-green. A pretty scarf to take the place of the shoulder shawl that used to be a necessary part of a summer outfit is of the most delicate white cashmere, the width of the goods, and finished with a deep insertion of guipure, as heading to a very full flounce of the same lace. This scarf is more graceful than the shawl, gives quite as much protection, and goes prettily over the head and around the throat, crossing and being spread out over the chest, the ends hanging in the back. Guipure is assuredly the reigning lacs for trimmings of all sorts. On the next pictured toilet it is used for the deeply van*

dyked yoke collar, which is worn over a bodice of fancy suiting, which is further ornamented by a small figaro made of silk which perfectly matches the suiting. The draped collar and cravat are of maize-colored crepe de chine. At the left side the skirt opens to show a panel garnished at the bottom with throe bands of velvet ribbon of different widths. The bodice hooks at the side, the figaro coming over, and fastening in front beneath the yoke. The hat of mordore straw is trimmed with feathers and primroses. White China silk fancy waists trimmed with laid-on insertions of lace in black are fresh and pretty, and a realiy good lace will wash without hurting its color. There is a movement against veils, and now any girl whose complexion can stand it goes with face bare. There are objections to this; do it in the country and at the sea shore if you like, but not in the city, where the face would be much better protected from dust and grit. Shaker flannel makes very useful and sensible summer dresses. It washes as well as cotton, is light, has enough woolliness about it to make it cozy to wear and is inexpensive. The white broadcloth gown is white only for one or two wearings, and then must be cleansed. White flannel is very pretty, but if you attempt to have it washed it shrinks like a oank account in a hard winter, and cleansing takes a long while and is expensive. Shaker flannel has all the air of a white wool gown, and the girl who wears it is, after all, the only one who needs to know that it is cheap. The men won’t, that’s certain. In the last picture there is displayed a costume of almond green suiting, with a gored skirt trimmed around the bottom with jet galloon. The short bodice fastens at the side and has a yoke of contrasting shade of crepe

banded and edged with jet passementerie and finished by a beaded lace frill The standing collar and belt are black watered ribbon, and the same ribbon may be substituted for the jet, if desired. Waistcoats are all the rage, and the proper coat is the one that shows the most of the waistcoat, and, so doing, all sense of proportion is often lost sight of. Thus the large lady, with generous curve below her waist in front, is just the one who gayly wears a coat that fastens with three buttons just below the bust line, and then is cut away to either hip, that the lower, part of the waistcoat may be seen; though, to tell the truth, the observer does not so much as think of the waistcoat. Don’t do it, any of you, save those distracting and envied creatures who can do anything and look lovely. Three is a small allowance of duck suits this summer, and with four and a ■flannel, serge or hop gown you can face the summer if you have a lot of shirt waists and a vest or so. Use the lightweight duck, cut the bodice in modified blazer fashion, a short-skirted jacket, open and loose in front and fitting behind, with little perky umbrella skirt-back. The skirt itself is plain, round, and fairly full, the sleeves very big glgot, and the jacket turns back in front with wide revers. White ground with pin stripes of light blue or light brown makes the freshest suits. Black pinstripes are good, too, and a stylish combination is dots of red on a drab ground. Wear a red waistcoat with the latter. A lisle silk shirt with a folded sash belt is all right under these little blazers, a frunt will do, or you may be gentlemanly and wear waistcoat, laundrled linen, and correct tie. Plain white should not be attempted except in the heavier duck. These skirts may be worn with shirt waists alone; so, you see, with four such dresses you can make changes enough to prevent your best friend from keeping count. Copyright, ism,

A JACKET ODDITY.

BEADY FOR SUNSHINE AND ITS WARMTH.

A STAB-SHAPED GUIPURE COLLAR.

A FRENZIED PATTERN OF SKIRT TRIMMING,