Democratic Sentinel, Volume 18, Number 12, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 6 April 1894 — MANY NEW BODICES. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

MANY NEW BODICES.

GREAT VARIETY OF STYLES ARE PRESENTED. S*riac M 4 Bommer Deeifna Display Tarises Modes of Shoulder Ornamentation— Bows of Laee Alternate with Mows of Ribbon—XxqnUlte Effects Obtained. Gotham Fashion Gossip. Nsw York correspondence:

BEAT variety is found in boaices nowadays because the' spring and summer styles display as many sorts of ornamentation at the shoulders as did those of the past winter, and [ the summer fabrics are more numerous and varied than the heavier ones. Now and then a new costume is seen like

that in the small picture at the head of the column, wherein the current craze for shoulder elaboration is only, faintly echoed by the simplest of epaulettes of the dress goods, edged by a narrow strip of velvet. But in general, it seems as if the more fancy bodices a woman has the more she wants. Silk waists that originally came in as a welcome economy, making any skirt available, have developed into an insidious extravagance. They are all called silk waists, but they are made of all sorts of silken weaves, and now and again of delicate cashmeres. A description of some of the novelties offered in this alluring fad for the destruction of the seriously minded, is enough to corrupt the most severe and unworldly. Many silk bodices which fit with tailor-like precision are covered with accordion pleated chiffon of a contrasting color, and arranged Icosely with serpentine effect in front and back. The sleeves both of the silk and the chiffon are very full. There is a fancy for covering any shade of silk with black chiffon, and for use in this way a chiffon comes so cunningly striped with a heavy thread that it seems to be pleated. This sort of thing lasts better than the pleating, but it lacks the possibilities the pleating gives in light and shade. How much prettier is the morning blouse in the first large picture. Here the material is red China

silk, trimmed with black lace insertion laid over straw-colored satin ribbon. The garment is lot fitted, and the back Is gathered several times at the waist and once at the neck. The front is also loose, and is trimmed with three horizontal bands of ribbon and lace, and is then arranged in narrow pleats. The neck is finished by a plain band covered with a triple boxpleated niching made of straw-colored crepe. The sleeves have full puffs, an accordionpleated epaulette garnished with two bands of insertion, and a tight cuff also trimmed with lace. The bottom of the garment is very wide, and is simply finished by a narrow hem, while a straw-colored ribbon belt comesaround the waist and ties at the left side. Dainty waists are all insertion, bows of lace alternating with rows of ribbon. Exquisite cashmere effects are obtained, yellowish lace being used,, and the ribbon being shade after shade. The whole is worn over a lining waist of delicate ombre silk. The rows of ribbon and insertion go about the figure in hoop fashion. A belt, apparently of a number of the shades of the ribbon all caught loosely in the hand and not sewed together, is tied about the waist, the loose endts escaping in a fluttering rainbow knot. The fastening of these waists is especially pretty and is made either in the front or at the back. Each row of ribbon is left with ends long enough to tie, and the lace insertion finishes off short, their edges being hidden in the fullness of the bows. A ruffle of lace escapes from under the belt, falling softly over the hips. The silk lining is made to fit with much precision and

fastens in front if the outer bodice fastens in the back, and vice versa. The outer bodice is made to fit by careful varying of the lengths of the insertion hoops. The little bodice can be managed at home with some care, and it is quite the newest and prettiest thing, having auadded advantage that its cashmere combination of colors makes it go with everything. It can be further harmonized with the rest of the costume by a change of the silk lining bodice, but this rainbow toilet is especially lovely worn over an ombre chiffon skirt. Plain silk bodices are less popular than a little while ago, because plaids are not becoming to all figures. When seen now the plaids are most carefully arranged, so that the lines may adjust

themselves becomingly to the form. The only new thing in plaids for waists is a material that rivals upholstery for heaviness, and that is brightened by an outlining of gold threads. This u combined with lace. Plaids are still seen in trimmings, and the third illustration depicts a pretty use of it. Green and old rose striped changeable silk is the fabric, and light-green velvet and ecru lace are the trimming The gored skirt is finished simply with a velvet puff around the bottom. The bodice hooks in front and has a slight decollete. The fichu is made of a folded plaid silk in the shades of the dress stuff, and fastens in the center with a soft knot. On either side are long velvet revers ending in a point at the waist, and bordered with fancy gold pioots in addition to the graduated frill of lace that forms the epaulettes over the shoulders. The velvet re vers form a round collar in the back. The sleeves have two puffs, and the bottom of the bodice is finished with a narrow strip of plaid. The prettiest invention yet offered in the way of a silk waist is one fitting in pleats that run into a cord just below the bust line, front and back. To this cord is attached the edge of a sash wide enough to fall well below the waist line. The sash is arranged with the middle of its length in the center

of the back. The ends are long enough to cross in front, pass to the back, covering the hanging width of the sash, cross again to .he front, and tie just a little to one side. The sash is made of lined silk, the silk and the lining carrying out the shades of the colors in the tiny figure in the bodice material. An advantage of this bodice is that it is one of the few that can be successfully made at home, because there is practically no fitting required. A lovely one is made of an India silk having a primrose ground sprayed with pink roses, the branches having delicate green leaves. The sash is a dainty pink, lined with a green just a little more delicate than the green of the leaves on the rose sprays. The sash in passing about the figure turns so that the lining shows and the effect is charming. | Equally as much thought and skill is put into spring bodices made of cloths, and by the use of silks and velvets in trimming they are made in some instances quite as showy as the silken one. What could be more dressy and tasteful than the m del of the fourth picture? It is in thin beige-col-ored woolen suiting trimmed with the same shade of watered silk. The basque is joined to the bodice at the waist and is laid in box-pleats behind and bordered with silk. In front there is a gathered plastron of silk which hooks over and the sides turn back in large revers. The draped epaulettes are also made of silk, and there is a belt of the same with a large bow at the left side. The Etons will not down, and why should they? although they were so generally worn last summer as to become a uniform. They are going to be as plentiful the coming season, and vary them as best you can, they remain Etons after all. Two views di a bodice are shown in the last picture, which

recall the Eton styles. It is of light gray check cheviot and is worn with a plain, untrimmed gored skirt. The jacket bodice is fitted front and back and is finished with a serpentine basque that stops at the side seams. Around the neck come wide revers and a collarette of the same stuff, while the vest, which buttons in front, is made of fancy duck suiting and is quite high at the neck. The opening may be fitted in with lace draped with stick pins, or with a gentlemanly shirt front and four-in-hand tie. The lapels at the throat of all jacket effects to which we have become accustomed, and of which we have, perhaps, become a little tired, are now caught into flaring folds and drawn together under a cross piece at the throat, making a modification of the popular bow effect pnd a variation on their own monotony. Women are discovering that men’s suitings come in handsome fabric and design, that they are twice as wide as women’s goods, don’t cost a bit more and wear twice as long As a result, madam goes out arrayed in a gown to match her husband’s trousers, or Little Demurity gives young Chappy unintended encouragement by appearing in public with him in a gown of the same piece with his rig. Copyright, ism.

A BLOUSE OF HORIZONTAL SECTIONS.

IN UP AND DOWN STRIPES.

AN BLABORATE DESIGN.

A SIMPLE ETON SHAPE.