Democratic Sentinel, Volume 18, Number 10, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 23 March 1894 — STYLE IN HEADGEAE. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

STYLE IN HEADGEAE.

AN ENTERTAINING CHAPTER ON SPRING HATS. But Few Absolutely Xew Notion*. Ait boo*b There Ar* a BewUderlng Lot of Dainty De*i<n* Black Flower* Being Deed— Straw Not In Cea Ha* Hat* In Her Head Sew York correspondence:

March is the ■ n month when every A /I woman that calls / I herself a woman [Mr I has hats on the ■ M "brain. After all, V a woman has a w right to let her hat k go to her head, and no matter jitS \ what sort of a head L \ it is she can find a 11dozen suitable jz* bats, each one of

them just the most becoming she ever had on. The variety in hats is so bewildering that one has to take refuge in a sort of classification of charms. Of absolutely new notions there are but few. The tiny lamp-mat affair, diamond or crescent shape, that fits close to the head, shaping to it almost as a skull cap, is one. These little things are hardly larger than the palm of one’s hand ana are mere bits of delicate silken or lace stuff. They tie under the chin by bows bigger than the little hat itself, and they are trimmed with much simplicity, frequently by a winged bow at the back, and in many cases the winged bow is about all there is to the hat. The characteristic of this sort is that it is worn well back over tho round of the head. Another novelty is larger and is shown in the first picture In this column. It is made of coarse horse-hair braid, with a rolling brim and has a two-inch crown, banded by a folded bias piece of ivory yel'.ow satin antique which is drawn through a steel buckle in front. At the left side are placed two ivory satin loops, and the top of the brim is wholly covered with finely pleated tulle lace, which is also arranged in an aigrette at the left side. A new notion of the spring trimming is hardly a pretty one. It Is the use of black flowers. Bunches of black violets, big black crysanthemums or black poppies and black snow balls all claim attention. There seems an effort at establishing a distinction about a knot of black flowers, as there has been for so long about a knot of purple violets, and the oddness of black violets does convey a suggestion of distinction but not of beauty. When they are more

generally used it may be different. That is a standing rule of all boldly new styles. A sort of hat which will claim a good deal of attention later in the season is the Chinese-looking disc of straw. These threaten to be of enormous size, and to be trimmed only by a great spreading bow of moire sash ribbm in the very center on the top. The long ends of the bow pass through slits in the straw made close to the center on either side, serve for strings, and tie under the chin in another big bow. There is something oddly piquant about these hat*. The invariable color for their ribbons is the new pink apricot, a yellowish pink that is becommg. The hat is to be worn on the top of the head, and the strings must come from as near the J»p of the hat as possible. Of things Which are equally new, but a bit less pronounced, the second picture presents an attractive example. It is in black straw and of poke shape. The edge of the brim is trimmed with narrow white lace, and it is garnished in back with two large black ostrich tips, one of which falls over the hair. At the side is a spreading bow of white silk ribbon and the other side is decorated with a small bunch of pink rosebuds. The 1830 poke appears with many modifications and is now rather picturesque than grotesque, or it is that we have Wales feathers mount guard in unexpected corners of these hats, and the become accustomed to grotesqueness? Hats of this style are made very long on the sides, thus shortening the length of the bonnet strings, and in

some cases the hat frames in the face almost to the chin. Tall Prince of same tendency to apply the trimming in detachments is shown in these as in all hate. In the position of the big bow on the next hat shown, there is something reminiscent of past seasons, but the remaining features of shape and adornment are much less familiar. It is composed of fancy tan straw edged with straw lace of the same color, and is trimmed with very wide tan ribbon and small bunches of forget-me-nots. In the back is a huge upright bow of the ribbon with a large cluster of the flowers, and the front has three small loops and bunches of the flowers entwined among the ribbon. Altogether it is a pretty and tasteful spring design. For garden hats there are a madly bewildering lot of dainty leghorns, lace over wire frames and silk chiffon confections. These are trimmed with a regular riot of ribbon and flowers, the latter of all colors and kinds in a mutinous melee. Some of the very prettiest are adorned with great sprays of lilac, the heavy bunches weighting the brim

into graceful curves and the foliage spreading on all sides. The chiffon hats are wonders of shirring, and are many of them so big that they presuppose a coiffure of loose ringlets and waves standing far out at the sides of the head. Ribbon is used more than anything else for trimming, next come flowers, and then feathers. For early spring wear there are fewer straws than usual, the lack of coarse straw, the stand-by of past seasons, being particularly noticeable. Great picture hats of olaok moire silx with chimney pot crowns and widely curving brims are trimmed most severely with a single tall plume of green caught in place by a paste buckle set thick with turquoises and a flat fold of moire is bound about the crown. Contrasting colors applied in dabs, the contrasts being made of a lot of dull tones and one vivid are frequently most artistic. Of toques there is no end. The newest additions to the already long list contain many pretty ones, and a quaint one is selected for the fourth sketch. It is from black velvet spangled with gilt, showing a large butterfly bow in back. The center is white satin embroidered with gold, and the folded brim is ornamented with a large buckle of imitated jewels and a feathery aigrette. Coming down to still smaller headgear, there is newness in theater hate in the shape of a tiny Napoleon that is hardly more than a couple of profiles. The corners come well down by the ears and are finished by a pair of rose knots. This dainty hat is made

all of white moire, comes off easily and shuts flat as a fan. They are sure to be popular, and they cannot be made at home. These are the days to make a woman wish she had at least two heads and many purses. This is, perhaps, the only distinctly new thing in theater hate. The pretty fashion of mounting a hat on a crown-like band that rests on the hair is followed again, and the band is now a bow of ribbon or a bunch of flowers against the hair. A variation of the three-cornered hat has the brim rolled, making three corners, and a brave cockade is placed against the crown at one corner. Even leghorns are bent in this fashion. The sailor hat is like the poor, in that it is always with us, and it promises to be so abundant for the spring and summer that a pretty model is taken as the subject of the last picture. It is of light-brown straw and has an oblong crown with the brim wider in front than at the back. The garniture consists of two loops and a loose knot of old rose velvet, together with two lace wings and two dark brown stiff plumes placed at the left side. The very low crpwn is encircled by a narrow fold of old rose velvet. Jets have been wrought in many fancies for the spring, while the split faceted beads mounted on fine wire and effects in strung beads have a place. A new idea in jet bonnets embraces a plain disc about two inches in diameter set on the top with radiating wires holding split beads. The brim is of disci- an inch in diameter

with a hole in the center through which is run an arrangement in strung beads, or a band of satin or velvet ribbon which drops in strings at the back or at the ears. It is a reassuring diversion of interest to turn to the little bonnets of which there are a great many shown. They are more fascinating than ever before. A favorite model is a wedge shaped affair, with the thin edge serving for the top of the bonnet and the sides sloping for front and back. This much of the bonnet is frequently velvet in a bright shade, vivid red and emerald being usual. A full box-pleat of guipure flares in front, forming a projecting apology for a brim; at the □ack is set a winged bow of ribbon or of wired lace) and not infrequently the entire bonnet is covered with sequins or studded with crystals. The same model is carried out in a bijou-like miniature of very dressy wear. The rage for bows gets crazier, and they are made of everything bowable —grasses, stems, straw, plaited wire, gauze, and felt, and the only bow a woman has so far refrained from displaying in her bonnet is the man rendered helpless with admiration of the face that these days frequently looks out at him from between a big bow on the top of her bang, and one under her chin. A woman is always dangerous when she takes to setting her cap at a fellow; but this season, with such a variety ot caps to choose from, it is a wonder that men dare appear on the street. Copyright, 189*.

SOMETHING NEW IN POKES

ANOTHER SPRING MODEL.

ONE OF MANY TOQUE SHAPES

THE EVER BLOOMING SAILOR