Democratic Sentinel, Volume 18, Number 3, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 2 February 1894 — FANCIES OF FASHION. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

FANCIES OF FASHION.

GREAT VARIETY IN THE STYLES FOR THIS SEASON. Fashions Change So Rapidly that an Admirable Style Does Not Keep I ppermost Long Enough to Folly Show Its Advantages. Gotham Fashion Gossip. New York correspondence:

ARELY does an admirable style keep uppermost long enough t o show fully its advantages, so rapidly do fashions change. Accentuation of its characteristic point develops so quickly after a mode becomes adopted, that grotesqueness folvlows close upon the Vheels of the more /tasteful initiative. The happy medium is thus promptly reI duced to the ex--1 travagant, or the fashion is thrown

aside entirely for something new. It is notably thus in coats. Not long ago it looked as if the multiplicity of skirts and capes was becoming a serious menace to the comfort and beauty of all outer garments, but the new models show that this tendency has been promptly arrested. Coats are now shown with full skirts attached to the round bodice, and the skirts are invariably single and not extraordinarily full. One shoulder cape, hardly more than a collar, is worn, usually of the pattern which has a high collar made in one piece with the cape. Such coats are of cloth in all dark shades and usually in smooth goods, the cape and collar edged with a dark fur. This, and the same design braided, constitutes the coat which will be the popular one for the late winter and spring. It is just this element of popularity, however, that constitutes an objection

to the minds of many, therefore, new designs are appearing constantly. The model in the first illustration is one that has gained general favor. It is made of magenta melton and furtrimmed. Its large spreading collar is composed of Russian fur and the skin extends to edge the fronts. A narrow band of it, too, finishes the sleeves. This coat is tight-fitting in back and loose in front. In many of the new models which have not yet been generally worn, skirts are done away with altogether and military effects are revived. Double-breasted jackets fit in trim military fashion to the hips, and are made of heavy dull cloth in rough finish. A feature of the double-breasted effect is that the two rows of buttons run close together at the collar and waist and spread over the bust, thus adding to the effect of rcundness of figure. Jackets are also shown in cloth fitting closely to the waist. A round skirt fitting without fullness is added, reaching ]ust over the hips and extending all around to the front, where the corners are cut away sharply almost to the hips. A pointed vest that extends at the top from shoulder to shoulder and that narrows t'o a point at the joining of the edges of the skirt is on the bodice part. Such a coat is carried out in brown, the vest being deep red velvet closely braided with narrow gilt braid. Collars and cuffs match. The sleeves are a much modified gigot, with epaulettes of velvet treated to match the vest. Gold buttons are sometimes added, and the coat fastens under the vest. The skirts may be lined with red velvet, and the corners, instead of being cut away, may turnback to show the velvet as in the continental coat. It will be observed

that these designs lack entirely the revers and multiple frill effects that have been characteristic of outer garments long enough now to have become almost vulgar to the sensitively fashionable. Coats, jackets and capes are not grand enough for some, and for these the word wrap suggests at once something by which the world, may be made to i ealize the paucity of expression of which the former garments are capable. It sometimes seems as if the fashionable wtman strove to stun observers by the richness and elegance of her theater or ball wrap, so magnificent are these affairs. To the less fortunate woman, whose modest coat or cape does double, yes, triple duty, these costly things sometimes seem to overshoot the mark and stamp the wearer as one who courts that prominence which so many seek to avoid. But often these creations compel admiration by a combination of great expense and good taste. Such an example is

shown, and the original of the second picture was composed of shot Louis XV. brocade, bordered with sable and lined with shot silk, with a ruche of lace as edging to the turned back fronts and high collar. Beneath it was a dress in sprigged gauze 'trimmed with ecru Duchess lace, and carried with it a fan bag in mirror plush, enriched with a bullion cypher and chenille tassels tipped with beads. It is a strong-hearted woman, who, possessed at once of a love for handsome dress and a slender purse, can view such things without feeling some slinking envy at their happy owners. But splendor of cl6ak doesn’t denote clearness of conscience, nor glorious apparel contentment of mind, so there’s some i eason to be satisfied. Yet how surely

the memory reverts to the story of Sir Reynard and the grapes which roosted high. Capes hang lower on fortune’s tree, and, happily, within the reach of many; happily, because with the big sleeves still lingering, a cape is the handiest kind of an outer garment; lower, because there are many, many sorts, and in all degrees of expensiveness. The first one shown is made of fine woolen cloth, hangs in double boxpleats and is a very stylish model. The upright full shoulder capes are likewise trimmed. The second example is a double cape at the shoulders and is made of mode-colored cloth trimmed with Alaska sable. Its hem, fronts and the edges of both short capes as well as the collar are edged with fur. A third cape model is shown, and as sketched was made of bottle-green cheviot trimmed with mink. The cut of the collarette is unusual, for it forms collar and epaulettes and extends down the fronts. Its edges are fur-trimmed throughout. Fur is used as trimming for all kinds of cloth. As a rule in capos, jackets, and coats it appears as edge finish and in some cases tnis finish suggests a fur lining. Of late the craze for effects in braiding has induced the use of fur in very narrow bands. This seems a wicked waste, but, on the other hand, odds and ends of fur are made into this fur braiding and once accepted it is very effective. Gigot sleeves of seal are sold for wear over cloth sleeves. The cost of such is slight, and an immediate effect of elegance is secured. Collarettes and cuffs of fur make a very simple cloth coat handsome for an occasion, and this has led to the sale of these accessories separately. It is perhaps wiser to get them in this way. The designs for cloth in coats are often carried out exactly in fur, and this serves to .show tliatthe wearer is so rich she can use fur just as freely aa

other people can cloth, which may be an advantage. The really new things in fur are the little “Bo’sun” jackets. These are made of seal, fit as trimly as a riding habit, and close down the front with a double row of buttons set close together, and the same distance apart all the way down. They are cut short all around, with the least little dip to the front, making a slight point below the waist there. They are turned away at the throat in a couple of coat revers, but these may be doubled over close to allow the Bo’sun to ba buttoned snugly to the throat. The sleeves are baggy all the way from the shoulder, and are cut in a long rounded point that comes well over the hand. This point is not over the back of the hand, but leaves the hand free at the little finger and covered to almost the tip of the thumb. This cut secures the showing of the handsome lining of the coat. The mode is so very dressy that it is likely to be copied in the coming summer outing gown and take the place of the much-wearied Eton. At present it is quite exclusive. Copyright, 1894.

SOUR DRAPES TO MOST OF US.

SWEETER FRUIT.

FROM ANOTHER LOW HANGING VINE

YET EASIER TO REACH.