Democratic Sentinel, Volume 18, Number 2, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 26 January 1894 — CLOAKS AND WRAPS. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

CLOAKS AND WRAPS.

PRESENT STYLES WILL PREVAIL NEXT WINTER. Some of the Popular Designs that Are Shown Cepes with Long Stole Ends Are Much In Favor—High Collars Are Worn. Fashion's Foibles. New York correspondence:

BOCT the same styles in cloaks and wraps as those now worn will prevail next winter, so the woman with a few dollars to invest is made frantic by the number of bargains offered. The display in cloaks is simply appalling, but, of course, you take risks from moths and storing over summer. A popular design is that with very full skirts,sleeves very large and drooping at the shoulder and narrowing to the wrists. The

capes so popular for shoulder finish of cloaks are less worn, or take the form of epaulette capes that are only over the shoulder and do not cross either front or back. Capes are worn, and are likely to be always favored. They ai e very full and mostly set on yokes. When the capes are in series, they fall from the shoulders instead of from the throat. Capes with long, stole ends like that in the first initial picture are much in favor. Made of brocaded velvet shot with green and a dull yellow, its fronts are trimmed with wide bands of velvet ribbon, which are ornamented with three rows of narrow jet passementerie and are held down at regular intervals with bunches of jet leaves. The cape is lined with pale-green silk and is finished with an epaulette collarette. The inner sides of the tabs as well as the standing collar arq trimmed with dark fur, preferably sable. For theater wear are shown some cloaks that recall rather too forcibly those worn by the gentlemen in Venice in the time of Sbylock, or of the sort displayed by Paulo, the handsome brother of the hunchback made fa-

mous on the stage. These little capes hang half off the shoulder and are finished with turn-over collars. They drop full and are made of the richest plush or brocade, being lined with contrasting satin or silk. Truth to tell, such little garments are rather an accessory to the dross than a covering, and they are sufficiently dainty and i%ost enough to have a mote established position in the economy, or, to put it in another way, in the extravagance of woman's dress. If you are clever enough to make one of these at home, you may use upholstery or curtain goods of the finer kinds and expend about half what dress goods would require. Some kinds of upholstery velvet are all cotton at the back, but for all that present a most beautiful right side surface, and come in rich and exclusive designs and colorings. To be sure, there is not much wear of the kind dress goods get in it, but for sleeves or a cape it is most suitable, being of splendid width and very cheap compared with the dress material it replaces. . The Empire styles have for some time been relegated to house wear, and of late the tendency has been toward discarding them even for indoor gowns. But now a newly stylish cut of coat is offered, wherein the loose fronts and back are sewn to a yoke, the seam being hidden by a wide strip.of braid, which recalls the Empire belts. The sleeves are very full, as shown in the accompanying sketch of this garment, and the collar is composed of a double ruching made of braid.' The whole is lined with satin and thinly wadded, and is well suited for middle-aged wearers. Very high collars arc generally worn and add to the length of the neck, which is good luck for the average woman who is in danger of being swamped in the detail of stylish covering. Sealskin and velvet are combined in a unique design. The former fits like the little jackets worn by pages in fashionable modistes’ establishments; that is, fits closely, fastens right up the middle of the front, is cut very short on the hips, and curves to a little Eton point front and back. To this sort of a bodice very full satinlined skirts of velvet are added. A slight modification of th*s fashion

makes the bodice part double-breasted and employs very handsome bronze buttons. * To torn from such studied elegance to two garments which are so simple as to seem to be made with a view to comfort first of all is quite a chanee. But such things are sometimes lent a simple touch or two which, without display of great expense or necessitating the outlay itself, publish dearly, to

the feminine half at least ot tne worm, that the wearer is in touch with Dante Fashion’s requirements. A jacket and a three-quarter cape appear in the third picture which are entirely unostentatious and comparatively inexpensive, yet which are stylish garments. The cape is gray armure trimmed with passementerie and black astrakhan, and the jacket is cut from seal-brown beaver and set off tastafully with Persian lamb. The rule now Es put fur on it and have the fur in narrow strips and small pieces. In obeying this law many extravagant notions are developed, but perhaps the most extravagant on 3is that which makes fringes of “tails." A remarkable ball wrap of steel-gray velvet was magnificently ornamented with a deep and close fringe of ermine tails, about six

inches from its edge, while about the foot came a cord of the tails twisted together. Perish the thought that the tails can be imitated, but can one bear to think that any woman would allow herself to be the stalking hoi se for bo many poor little dead creatures? Whyever do they ngt cultivate fur bearing that shall have two or three tails, or that shall bo all caudal extremity. Sable tails are much used tJedge cloaks and capes and winter hats are close and of velvet, two tails standing orect at the side. It is so natural of tails to do that! Very rich velvet is used in skirts for street wear over cloth. The velvet is fitted closely over the hips, the gores spreading to the full width of the velvet, and the breaths are then allowed to spread separately, so that the underskirt of cloth appears. The velvet is silk back and unlined, and the selvages show. This Fame idea is carried out for ball gowns with velvet and tulle, the tulle billowing out under the velvet in charming contrast. In the street dress pictured, dark-green velvet is used for the zig-zag stripe about the skirt, for the yoke, belt and cuffs, ■ and a band of it edges the shoulder frills. In each instance, except the yoke, there comes just above the velvet a zig-zag pattern of chenille. The dress goods are a grayish-green woolen stuff. The final pictured model is an example of the draped overskirt, of unEleasant memory, which promises to e fashionable by spring. / Elaborate dressers among actresses display costumes which include th|s ovefskirt, and already an occasional one is seen upon the street. The material of the costume shown is silver-gray silk trimmed with dark grayish-red velvet. The foundation skirt of taffeta silk is covered with velvet at the parts exposed bv the opening of the front. The edges of the panel front are finished with gray silk passementerie, which is seen in three rows at the bottom of the skirt. The overdress is cut longer than the skirt, and is caught up as indicated. It parts behind to show a velvet strip, similar to those in front. The bodice has a velvet jacket finished at the top with a serpentine ruffle, and the narrow circular basque is

also made of velvet and lined with silk. Street dresses are often made throughout of material so heavy that a few years ago it would have been classed as cloaking. Such gowns have lap seams and are severely tailormade. The swellest of these goods comes fleeced on the under side, and is allowed to turn over for revers and cuffs, arid adds much to the elegance of the material. Double-faced goods [come also, cne side being a dark, solid color, -the other being either repped heavily with a contrasting color,- , Qr fleeced in a harshade. The effect is elegant in polonaise effects when the polonaise turns away at the shoulders in revers that show the double side of the goods, and the skirt is made up with the” double side out, the bodice being yoked with the double side showing. Skirts are worn which contrast in color and material with the bcdices. This is much seen at the theater and in reception gowns,' and there is much wisdom in the adoption of silk for skirts made up simply. In the usual crush at receptions, or in the getting in and out through the crowded aisles of a theater, a wool or velvet skirt, or one lace-trimmed or finished with fur, is most uncomfortable wear and subject to fatal injury. Copyright, 1894.

Refined crystallized sugar, whether made- from the beet or the sugar cane, is almost chemically pure saccharose, and is the same substance in both cases. Few articles of food are so generally free from adult ?ration as granulated—not powdered or coffee-crushed —sugar. Ragged hedges index ragged carpets, rusty stoves, dilapidated barns, tumble-down sheds, unsheltered farm machinery, and other things in similar shape about a run-down farm. —America fl Agriculturist.

EMPIRE MODELS OUTDOORS AGAIN.

COMPORT THE FIRST CONSIDERATION.

NOT A GOWN TO BE HUGGED IN.

ZIG-ZAGED WITH VELVET AND CHENILLE.