Democratic Sentinel, Volume 17, Number 51, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 5 January 1894 — WHAT WOMEN WEAR. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

WHAT WOMEN WEAR.

STYLES FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO LOOK PRETTY. RvMcocm of th« Style* of lota XXEL App>« i taj h the iMkltasbb Tim line The ZnepreMtbte OimkM Is Coming— Until Growing in SUe. Kur New Modes. Hew Toifc oorreipondenoe:

APID are the changes of style* nowadays, and the .latest scanning of 'the firmament of modes discovers the fashions of Louis XHL on the horizon. This means an aooeesion of dignity and graoe. A few characteristics of the period to be reviewed are as follows: Bodices, with long point in front ana cut high on the hips; skirts of Ithe same material 3 as the bodice open in front over a oon-

trasting petticoat; shoulders are sloping, and sleeves puffed to great sixe emphasize the sloping effect. Suggestions of all this are already appearing. We may expect soon to see stiffenened collars of muslin and lace that extend smoothly from the throat away out over the shoulders, adding to their slope. Such collars are also worn with low-neok dresses, being set into the edge of the gown's neck. The richest needlework will be used on the accessories, and they will be fidished usually with Vandyke points. Cuffs likewise turn back from the wrists, being narrow at the hand and spreading over the sleeves half way to the elbow. Other cuffs give the effect of an undersleeve loosely turned back. Many delicate tints are put together In gowns, and stomachers richly jeweled will be worn. Already some are for sale In jet, gilt, and embroidery. Evening gowns will have long sleeves. Ribbons will trim everything, as in the days of Louis XIII. when every one was “ribbon mad." Skirts will be only moderately full and their spread wifi be muoh reduced. As has been said, these styles are only on the horizon, and whether they will rise to the zenith or sink out of sight for a long, long time like a Nor-

Way winter sun is as yet not determined. Pretty gowns in the current styles like those in the first two pictures are for the present safer models. The first of these is a dress of brown diagonal cloth, with the skirt perfectly plain and very fulL The front and cuffs are of brown velvet with brocaded designs in buttercup gold. The draped belt is of surah and the front is set off by a jabot of cream lace. The other dress is designed as a visiting costume and is made from heliotrope doth trimmed with velvet in the same shade and jet passementerie. The skirt is three and a half yards wide, and snug at the hips. The trimming consists of three bias folds of velvet neavily embroidered with jet beads. The bodice has a fitted lining over whioh the stuff is draped, and the fronts may have the usual darts or the fullness can be pushed under the vertical bands of embroidery used for adornment. The belt is made of heliotrope velvet or satin taken bias and hemmed on both Bides, and the jacket is velvet and reaches to the top of the belt at the back and sides, while the fronts terminate in sharp points. It is lined with silk, and its revers are faced with cloth and garnished with jet embroidered velvet. The standing collar is hidden by a Henry 11. ruohing of white marabout feathers.

The last bodice runs to perpendicular divisions, but there is a tendency just now which prompts woman to divide herself into any number of zones horizontally, giving each zone a different color. Her cape or collar will be one color and material, the rest of her bodice another, and the skirt will show two or more shades distributed horizontally, but you never see dresses made with one color and the other side a contrasting shade. Sleeves may be different in color and material from ail the rest of the gown, but they are al-. ways like each other. It is to be hoped that mention of these facts will not suggest another phase for fashion’s frenzy to follow. The little girl’s apron next shown runs to stripes, too, but in this case the up and down divisions are only the pattern of the batiste which comprises it.

The garment is garnished with two bands of insertion embroidered with clover leaves. It has a square bib attached to a square yoke, alike back and front, and has two straps fastening to the band. The yoke and small pocket are trimmed with embroidery as shown. Her mother’s costume is an elaborate affair made of pale silver-gray cloth with a faint pink tinge vnth white ■mire antique tor plastron and rovers,

ooarse netting for the roohing around the skirt and tulle insertion embroidered with gold. The skirt has a slight train, is lined with silk, and garnished with bands of gold-embroidered tulle. It is finished with revere forming an upright ruohing on the shoulders, the oouar being cut in connection with the plastron, whioh is edged with a deep lace frill, and put on separately to fasten on the shoulder. The sleeve* have balloon puffs edged with a grey ruffle trimmed with a tulle ruening and long cuffs of gold of embroidered tulle. Overskirts have not yet interfered with the smooth fit about the hips. An especially pretty sort is out with a long point reselling to a little below the knees in front, and shortening at the sides to almost nothing at the back. About the hips in front and at the sides it la gored oloeely to the figure, while at the neck, where it is hardly more than a little frill, it stands out full. The whole overdress is edged with a deep flounoe of lace set on very fulL The laoe fans out prettily at the sides and back, and hangs almost to

the hem in front. The underskirt ha* three frills of narrow lace at the foot. Rioh and heavy black lace is used on the fourth costume sketched to cover the yellow satin bretelles, the whole being edged with a narrow jet fringe. The costume is designed for those past middle age, and is made from black satin duchesse striped with yellow. The bretelles form a round oollar in back and leave the top of the bodice open. The standing oollar is finished with a oloeely pleated frill or ruohing made of yellow orepe de chine. The sleeves have a large puff shirred near the elbow to form a puffing or ruohing tied with black satin ribbon having a yellow picot edge. The bottom of the bodice is finished with a flounoe or basque of yellow satin oovered with black laoe and edged with jet fringe. The bodice is Blightly pointed in front and back and the basque stops about four inches from the center on each side, thus leaving the front open for about eight inches. This full space is oovered with a narrow pointed belt of yellow and black ribbon held in plaoa by a yellow rosette on either Bide. The skirt is lined with yellow silk and trimmed on the inside with ablack laoe frill. Both sides of the skirt are appliqued panels of yellow satin covered with jet embroidered tulle and held In place by rosettes, one near the bottom, the other thirty Inches higher. Sleeves are many of them made with puffs spreading enormously at the elbow, and even though the puff Is narrower on the inside of the arm than on the outside, the woman who wears them must stand with her hand on her hips or crush her sleeves. As for getting on a coat! well, no armhole is made big enough for suoh puffs to get through either way. The elbow sleeves on the dress worn by the standing figure in the last illustration are of this order, and the wearer is shown with her Idle arm set akimbo. Suoh sleeves will make their presence felt and the woman wearing them will be pretty apt, when not herself on view, to take up an attitude which relieves her mind of them. This dress is made of lilac broche silk, with the panels, sleeves and revere of black velvet. The front is pale-veilow crepe de ohine embroidered witn velvet applique. The other gown of the same picture is In myrtle-green crepon, trimmed with velvet of the same shade. Oollar, crosswise band on the bodice, and the

torsade around the skirt are of the velvet and the basque is of crepon. Choker collars fastening in the back have a wing-like pieoe turned over at the top edge of the collar, and this edge stands out stiff and flat and is very stylish, uncomfortable and perishable. Collarettes of velvet are finished with this sort of throat-locket, the whole being lined with a silk contrasting in color, which shows at the turn-over piece. No protection is worn inside the edge of any collar or sleeve, and the idea seems to be that a gown will of course be worn so short a time that protection for the lining at the neck and sleeves is unnecessary. At the same time, the tailor-made girl can always wear collars and cuffß if she likes. Yes, verily, she has taken to herself the privilege till now monopolized by her brothers, and she means to wear the shirt front all winter. She, too, has discovered that its sum-mer-like appearance is appearance only, and having shared with her brothers the delights of roasting in a “boiled shirt” in the summer, she is now going to be comfortable in one in the winter. But it will look queer to see a shirt front peeping from the loosened seal-skin sacque. (Copyright, 1893.)

VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL TRIMMING.

ELEGANCE AND ASPIRATION TOWARD IT.

A MODEL FOR THE ELDERLY.

WITH SLEEVES WHICH ARE A CARE.