Democratic Sentinel, Volume 17, Number 48, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 15 December 1893 — WRAPS FOR WOMEN. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

WRAPS FOR WOMEN.

MANY NEW AND HANDSOME STYLES. Coata and Jackets Are Superseding Capes —Richly Made Street Dresses Heavily Finished with Fur—Delicate Shades Are Much In Demand. Gotham Fashion Gossip. New York correspondence:

made fit dresses already anp ea r heavily finished B with fur. Brown “cloth is deeply TH vandyked with seal about the IjDf skirt and waist and across the rVI breast. Astra&Jf khan is also much .]r used chiefly the V black. A very 5 stunning notion SV for a street gown is a blue rough Kb cloth overshot with fleecy black, and finished

about the skirt with a two-inch edge of astrakhan andjaroundjthe bodice with a two-inch frill of the fur. An astrakhan butterfly collar completes a charming rig. Coats and jackets are superseding the pretty capes, but on the warmer days the young woman who wishes to appear indifferent to cold may wear such a oostume as that in the second picture in this column, wherein the jacket is short and open. It is warmly lined, however, the fronts ornamented with large and handsome buttons and its revers extend into a fairly broad turn-down collar. Beneath the jacket there is a blouse made of old rose and white striped silk, with a full and very pretty jabot of ecru laco at the neck. The pointed corselet belt is heavily whaleboned, hooks in front and has a small pleated skirt attached to it that is finished with maohine stitching. The material is a warm and heavy beige-colored cloth. While capes are getting the go-by as the cold weather strengthens, yet if you have a cape and will cover it all

over with braid and line it handsomely with rich silk, you may wear it on the street, but you must look at the coated woman with an air so scornful that she won’t dare look the same way at you. In other words, if you must wear a cape, the only comfort you can find will be to make other women discontented with their better fortune. Coats are made in heavy smooth cloths; they fit trimly over the bust and about the waist and out on to the hips, and from there they flare into big fluted skirts. If one skirt and all its flute does not satisfy the frantic tailor, he goes into a regular whirligig frenzy of double skirts, sometimes as many as four, each a little shorter than the last, and each flntier. What is even worse, on each skirt he puts a little ruffle, and the result makes one curious to know whether the wearer has any feet or if she is really a pen-wiper. The first picture shows a pretty jacket, but one open to the penwiper parallel owing to its wee triple cape. It is in Louis XVI. style, though, so it is all right. It is cut from a faded blue cloth and opens over a vest of wool seal which the muff and cuffs match. The whole garment Is machine-stitched at the edges, and the ample sleeves are called Rachel sleeves. Another stylish winter jacket is seen at the right in tho third illustration. It is made of darkbrown camel’s hair, and the back and sides are gored so that its skirts shall flare. Two serpentine ruffles, the upper of cloth the lower of velvet, trim the standing collar. The sleeves have half-moon shaped epaulettes, and the armholes are encircled by a band made of two cloth strips with one of velvet between. All edges and seams, as well as the pockets and sleeves, are trimmed

with brown and gold soutache braid. The lining of the whole is brown satin, plain or quilted. Beside the garment just described there is shown a coat in black plush shot with yellow. Its upper part is covered with a square collar, which is embroidered with jet and -edged with blue fox, the latter coming around the standing collar. The fronts of the coat are wide, are sewed to a plain yoke, and then arranged in two pleats. The back has no yoke, but is gored, for the fashionable flare must not be omitted. It buttons invisibly in front, and is lined with yellow satin merveilleux. The muH is made of plush and edged with bands of blue fox. The picturesque hat worn is bordered with the same fur, and has for other adornment a bunch of ostrich plumes, a fancy buckle, and a jet aigrette. As for coat and jacket colors, all delicate shades are much in demand and they come in exquisite finish. All shades of brown are seen, from coffee color through the Havanas, chestnuts and chocolates. Almost all coats, except the frantic ones mentioned, are finished with rows of braiding. Sometimes a girdle is simulated, often the bodice Dart from the bust line down

over the hips is braided closely. Other coats are braided all over. Coats have shoulder capes and it depends entirely upon the courage of the maker and the muscle of the woman who buys how many capes there shall be. Sleeves are leg-of-mutton, very big at the top, tapering slowly past a full elbow and tight at the wrist. The ombre effect so much sought after indoors is carried out in coats and capes by braiding a solid dark cloth with row on row of shades of braid. Red from deep to light, and into green from dark to light is a favorite combination, or, perhaps it would be better to say complication. Whole costumes are gotten up in this way, the skirt having a border of the variegatod braiding and the coat being braided all over. Among the long coats curious ulster affairs come which once on look like a tailor-made dress with a close fitting bodice that has a cute little frill to it. The skirt is full and has a big panel in front, braiding, buttons and button-

holes going up each side of it. Collar and sleeves, too, are finished with braiding. As a matter of fact, the skirt unbuttons on one side, the crossover bodioe does the same thing, and out of the garment the wearer steps. In case of a short trip, where you want to wear a light afternoon or evening dress, such a coat is of use, but it gives any timid person a shock to see a woman taking off her dress and not caring a bit, and that is what it looks like when Miladi divests herself of this combination. A handsome and rich full-length coat is soen in the next sketoh. The fabric used for it is black velvet, and it buttons invisibly. Both edges of the front are garnished with a rich jet galoon, and a similar but wider trimming comes around tho lot tom and trims the circular collarette, which is open in baok and is lined with rose-colored faille. The baok of the bodioe part is trimmed with narrow jet passementerie that ends in fancy ornaments. The balloon sleeves have cuffs of embroidery, and tho high Mediol collar is also embroidered with jot. The coat is lined with rose-pink faille, and tho let embroidery may be done on black faille, as none but the most experienced hands can do it on the velvet direct. There is presented in the same pioture a jacket equally elaborate in cut and adornment. It is In beigecolored cloth, hooks in front and is lined with white faille. It is vary heavily embroidered with a spreading design in jet and steel beads down the front, around the bottom and as far as the conter of tho bodice part behind. The embroidery is especially ornate around the neck and rather deep around the bottom. The sleeves are garnished with four serpontine ruffles, lined with silk and also embroidered.

The wristß and standing collar are trimmed with black marabouts. Rich and showy ornamentation, is used, too, on the spreading revers of the jacket of the last illustration. The complex pattern there shown is done in myrtle braid freely sprinkled with gold. The garment Itself is wide at shoulders and hem, is myrtle green in color, and is worn over a dress of the same shade having a very wide skirt. With it comes a collar and plastron of skunk fur. A gown of red brown cloth with a novel trimming of brown serpentine braid is shown in the picture. It is made with a plain boaice having a pretty bolero jacket with revers. .

Just now, gowns very much like spring dresses are much seen. Indeed, it is a wise woman who gets a dressy light gown made up in a dainty fashion, not too pronounced and looks sweet and fresh on the street, for she can lay away the gown after a few weeks' wear to take it out next spring when it will again seem brand new. Such a dress is made with a wide skirt, the width of the goods being for the length of the skirt and the seamE lapping deeply. The bodice is a queer little affair, a sort of Eton jacket with a triple collarette added which fastens at the shoulder. The jacket seems to ■ open on a seamless vest of the cloth. The sleeves are very big at the top and taper slowly to the wrist, and the flaps of the collarette hang well over the shoulders. Cloth gowns in overshot goods with points here and there of velvet to match the bright shade, are worn with butterfly coats. The latter garment is a sort of sublimated cape. It is, indeed, hardly more than a collarette with sleeves attached, and is queer enough to look at in the hand, though it is stylish as can be when on. These are made of velvet and pointed with fur. They consist of little capelets over an abbreviated bolero, said jacket not being open like a self-respecting bolero, but buttoned. The sleeves are the usual big ones. If you took a long coat that was especially well supplied with collar and frills, and cut it off just urn der the arms low enough to take in the armholes and sleeves, you would have a butterfly coat. And that way of getting it would cost less than to buy it outright, for it is down in fashion's price-list that three-fifths of a garment costs more than the whole of it. when it is newly fashionable to wear only the former fraction. Copyright, 1893. Ths largest apes have only sixteen -ounces of brain; the lowest men have thirty-nine.

WARMER THAN IT LOOKS.

BEFURRED AND BRAIDED.

DEFYING COLD AND SHORT PURSKS.

TWO OTHER OUTDOOR MODELS.