Democratic Sentinel, Volume 17, Number 44, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 17 November 1893 — WRAPS FOR WINTER. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

WRAPS FOR WINTER.

WHAT TO WEAR WHEN BITING FROSTS COME. The Subject of Outdoor Wraps Is One Calculated to Reduce the Average Woman to a State of Utter Bewilderment—Varied lu Style. Gotham Fashion Gossip. New York correspondence:

OARING winds and biting frosts must be guarded against and stylisnly, mind you. But there comes the rub, for the subject of outdoor wraps is one calculated to reduce the average woman to a state of utter bewilderment, so varied are they in cut, fabric, trimming, and adaptation to the many functions of society. They are classed for the carriage, street, church, reception everything, in fact, and are get-

ting to be almost as eloquent in meaning as the graded width of crape on a fashionable mourner's costumes. In some things they are alike, as all are much longer and fuller over the skirts than formerly, and all have the collarette over the shoulders, and high collar at the neck faced and trimmed so as to be turned down at will. The great thing to be achieved is width of shoulders and of hips, especially if it be of the close fitting kind. Nothing but the abnormally slonder waist saves the fashionably dressed woman from looking the amazon when she puts on her coat, buttoned closely, with collar fluted and crinkled and skirts fulled on like the pipes of a church organ, or, less poetically speaking, a half-open umbrella. Skirts are correct, for sometimes you can see throe of them fastened one over the other, to a close fitting body. These voluminous skirts, with the big sleeves drooping at the shoulder under the heavy collar, the

collar waving In and out with fullnoss, make a moving spectacle over which one wonders at the inventions of genius. Coats are made of velvot, plush, beaver, and heavy diagonal cloth, or satin, as the taste indicates. Black Is the oolor most in vogue in coats to be worn with alt costumes. Blaok and white combined is the reigning taste just now. For this effect ermine Is again brought into use as a trimming in capes, collarettes, collars, and bands, so the woman who can produce this costly fur from among her treasures is conscious of being ultra-stylish in dress, as well as of wearing a badge of royalty. In the initial picture there is shown a coat with a cape, both made of blue cheviot. The foundation coat has the regulation sleeve, and is, of course, double-breasted. The circular cape is joined to a round yoke, and both cape and yoke are finished by ruffles of cheviot put on with a heading and garnished with three rows of black braid which also comes down the front. Circular cloaks and long loose cloaks with flowing sleeves trimmed with cream or white lace are affected for the carriage. These are in, black, brown, blue and light tan; the lighter colors, however, are trimmed with black Angora fur or Russian sable. When only a light wrap is needed, as for evening wear, short and very full capes are worn, elaborately trimmed with black soutache edged with gilt, with the great full collar of the stuff of the cape, or of velvet or fur. There are also double and triple capes with serpentine braid trimming which simulates the triple style and is lighter in weight. A pretty style, as well as a convenient one, is a house dress with a street wrap to match. A woman can cut her garment according to her cloth, and give her soul to peace, for

there are models to meet every emergency. Capes are the prettiest outside garments and best suited for general use. The second figure shows one made of the light tan cloth, which still holds its place. It has an elaborate collarette of the fichu style, edged with crinkled Thibet goat fur. This fur, by the way, is used in black and white, and is also dyed in colors. Here it is black and white, and it appears also on the Medici collar. The garment is encircled near the bottom by four bands of jet passementerie, the' whole mak-

ing a dressy wrap for a calling costume and one easily removed when desired. The next sketch shows a three-quar-ter length cloak that is bolted in to fit tightly in the back so as to form deep boxploats at the bottom. The collar may be made of the same material as the cloak—which here is of the fleecy cloth so much in vogue—or of satan, velvet or moire. It is sewed on full to make it flare at the shoulders and is trimmed with otter. The neok band is also otter, which stands up about the neck and chin in tho regulation style. These things are rich ana costly in appearance, yet the economical woman can get the effect at slight expense by making her outside garment of two materials. A olose bodice, double or single breasted, with several full circular skirts flaring at the bottom, and a very obstreperous collarette may be manufactured of remnants, rich in themselves, but inexpensive. The big sleeves, the collarette and one of the

skirts may be of a material different from that of the body, and stylo and economy both bo satisfied. Broad shoulders, wide hips, and a clear conscience—all these and even a depleted purse could not make you unhappy. Tho ruling black and white is’ used quite often in children’s cloaks. One stylish little creature is lomombered wearing a cloak to her heels, being lined with white satin. Block satin cloaks have for someyoars boon stylish for children of 4 and up, and thiH season they are also worn with insertions of white lace over white sa*in. A tiny creature of 0 wears a groat velvet hat in black, with seven big drooping whito plumes curling about her face. This with a black velvet cloak made with a cape ermlne-llnod was enough to turn the eyes of all the othor little girls green with envy, but, blo<s their hearts, they don’t care what thoy wear; it is the mothers who suffer in their minds when their own particular baby is outshone. A loss elegant but more serviceable garment wuh for a schoolgirl, and was a pretty coat made dou-ble-broasfed of heavy felt twill in a dull tobacco-brown. A collar of long astrakhan, big sleeves and black-poarl buttons completed It. It was loosefronted and fitted into the hack with a strap l>elt. The skirts of tho ooat reached tho knees, ahd it was lined throughout with black satin. Buoh a coat worn with a plainly made gown with gored skirt finished with several rows of black braid, and with bodice plain but for big Bleeves, would make an ideal school rig. Too much cannot be said in favor of dressing the school miss of 16 very simply. Tho passing vagaries of tho styles should leave no fmErossion upon the quiet prettinoss of or dresses and cloaks. Her garments should fit trimly, but not tightly; colors should bo dark, and matorial heavy and good, without being rich. To allow a school-girl of 16 or 17 to overdress, is to rob her of all tho delight her pretty dresses and furbelows should bring her when in a few years she comes out, to say nothing of the injury

done to figure and carriage, by the wearing of unsuitably made clothes. Turning again to fashions for older persons and to the fourth illustration, there Is shown at the left a loose cloak with cape. This should be made of the very wide fabrics, which would permit of its having but one seam—in back. The full cape and collarette arc lined with silk, and the whole coat is trimmed with braid about three-quarters of an inch wide and in a slightly darker shade than the cloak’s fabric. At the other hand in the picture is a threequarter length jacket made of dark mode-colored cloth, trimmed with brown silk braid and mink fur. The coat is tight-fitting, with the fashionable flare at the bottom, and all seams are covered with a row of braid. The pointed collarette is alike, back and front, and is edged with a band of mink three-quarters of an inch wide and almost covered with braid. The standing collar, both sides of the front, and the hem are trimmed with the mink. The skirt of the jacket is further garnished with eight rows of braid. Another couple shows two more accepted cool weather styles in the last Eicture. The capo here is in nutrown cloth lined with brown quilted satin and trimmed with rolls of wool seal. It is not cut as wide as the usual circular cape, and it is predicted that this model will be still more popular than the other. The cape is garnished with five rollo of fur with six-inch space between each, and the narrow shoulder oape has three rows. A band of fur also encircles the neck and edges the ruching, which is made of a strip of cloth six inches wide and fifty-four inches long lined with plain silk. Dear little hoods, made loose and soft of dark velvet, lined with soft light satin and edged with fur, are worn with evening wraps. Nothing oouid be more becoming to a young, round face than such a hood 'drawn close, and nothing more gentle to an older or more faded one, if the hood is worn loose and drawn forward, so the face is prettily shadowed, yet emphasized by a harmonizing color in the hood's lining. Copyright, ism.

NONE PRETTIER THAN THIS.

CLOTH TRIMMED WITH OTTER

TOO MUCH BRAID.

STYLISH CAPE AND COAT.