Democratic Sentinel, Volume 17, Number 41, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 27 October 1893 — FANCIES OF FASHION. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

FANCIES OF FASHION.

GREAT VARIETY IN THE STYLES FOR THIS SEASON. Tailor-made Gowns Are Still In Vo<ue— Bodices Made Double-breasted Over a Shirt Front—The Jaunty Eton Jacket Will Not Go. Gotham Fashion Gossip. New York correspondence:

MANY tailor-made gowns of severely plain cut are now seen, and the favorite cut for bodx ice seems to be a r buttoned-up Eton ) affair. By Eton, * is meant, not the ugly,popular modification of that jaunty little jacket, but the Eton . proper that fits I close at the back, A a little point setnX ting in at the Wt\ waist line to a litHaA tie below that line and buttons snugly to the high collar in front. Bod-

ices are made double-breasted over a shirt front, six sham buttons being used, and each so big that the front of the bodice is hardly seen. Skirts are fitted over the hips and set out close in front and at the sides, At the knee a quilling of ribbon is used or a band of Hercules braid, and below this comes a flaring round skirt. This is a favorite pattern, and since the round part may contrast with the fitted part of the skirt, it is a fashion that lends itself willingly to the remodeling of old skirts. The initial illustration depicts an afternoon dress in old rose flowered crepon, trimmed with old rose silk. The four-gored skirt has a slight train, and is trimmed at the hem with a ruche of the silk. The round waist tits tightly and is belted in at the waist by a narrow gold girdle. It is set off with epaulettes which extend to the middle of both back and front. Down the front there is a pleated silk ruffle which conceals the hooks and eyes used for fastening. The sleeves are a plain Empire puff and deep cuff, ana are without trimming. This is a very stylish and pretty dross, and particularly suitable for a young matron. Silk homespun is not attaining the instant popularity expected, prooably because it is a genuinely fine goods. Every thread is silk and the weave is the popular sacking-llke effect. It will wear forever and is sold cheap enough to make one consider using it for curtains. It lacks the wiry crispness of

the wool homespun and cannot be fitted as closely as the usual silk can because of the loose weave. But it makes lovely skirts, and as for petticoats, what could be warmer and more serviceable? But there! that is rank nonsense. Who wants a petticoat either warm or serviceable! What is wanted is a little light silk and lace affair that will wear about twice, or so it seems. We are told that long waists are again in fashion. Does patient woman change her corset every time fashion thus changes, and do her lungs, liver and things all get boosted up and down like an elevator all the time! Nature is long suffering, and that's a fact. An exquisite out-door toilet is depicted ia the next sketch. It is made of anemone crepon and trimmed with insertions of black lace. The ruched collarette is of mousseline de sole with a narrow edging of white lace, and the hat is of fine black felt, covered with ostrich feathers of the same shade as the dress. Revere are as popular as ever and their modifications are without number. They turn loosely back from the very edge of the skirts of a long coat in front, widen to great epaulettes at the shoulder, and narrow away again at the back, lying all the way in loose folds, as if really the edge of the coat were merely turr.el back and no more thought taken. Another style is set trimly about the neck and shoulders at the back, is cut away in coat fashion in front, and lies in well regulated and tailor style against the sleeves on the breast. Again they are battlemented and mathematically calculated to lie

without a wrinkle or a fold. Others are little more than frills. They are Often faced in Continental fashion, with a contrasting color and material. White satin is used on black, and black satin on every color and all materials. Watered silks, black and white, too, are much in favor, black watered silk being a favorite combination with Havana brown. It is used for the lining of coats, the lining making the facing of the revers, too.

Two well-dressed promenaders are the mother and daughter of the third picture. The former’s costume is in almond-green foulard strewn with small white spots. The corselet and tiny vest are of white guipure and the sash of almond-green ribbon is knotted at the side. The black felt hat is trimmed with a large satin bow of a shade to match the dress. Red cashmere with narrow stripes running through it is the fabric or the little girl’s dress. The yoke is cream guipure and the epaulettes are red siuah. The big hut is of fancy felt lined with almond-green (to match mamma's dress, perhaps) and trimmed with a large bow of fancy red and green ribbon. Black silk petticoats have eight or ten ruffles about the edge, each ruffle finished with one or two rows of narrow white satin or silk ribbon in the very narrowest widths. Others and more dressy have each ruffle edged with narrow white or cream lace. Tnis fancy for finishing black frills with white lace is displayed in all directions. Black silk underwear takes a new lease of popularity because it affords an opportunity for the addition of yards and yard's of narrow white lace. Really coarse lace is much used, and, I am bound to say, with better effect than is usually attainable with it, but that does not prevent real lace from making a sensation when it is used. No matter how popular this idea in black and white becomes, thread lace is al-

ways going to be exclusive. Little shoulder capes of black net are shown, each of the four or five knife-pleated frills edged with thread lace, and the women stand seven deep about it, too. The material used in the next costume shown has a white ground strewn with small black dots and plaided with thin red lines. The skirt has a bellshaped upper part and a circular lower portion, which measures five yards in width at the bottom, but the top is just wide enough to fit the other. The seam is covered by two rows of red ribbon, the lower one covered with white lace. The skirt is lined with foulardine and has a frill of the same inside. The bcdice has a fitted separate lining over which the back and fronts are draped, the fabric being joined to the lining by the side seams. The fullness in back is laid in pleats at the waist, while the stuff is taken bias for the fronts and is drawn to the figure without any seams. It hooks In front, the opening being concealed by the full blouse front, which gathered to the neck has an elastic at the waist and is sewed firmly to one side while the other loops over and hooks under the bretelle collar. The blouse front Is taken on the bias and threaded by three red ribbons each covered with lace. The collar narrows toward the front and is divided In the center of the back where both ends are held in place by a ribbon rosette. The belt is composed of two rows of ribbon, the lower one covered with luce. It hooks over like the blouse front and la adorned with a rosette on both sides. The balloon sleeves have fitted linings and are finished by a ribbon which also composes the standing collar. The stuff of theglee ves has only one seam and is alrout one yard in width at the top. The material is taken on the bias and

pleated into the armhole. The top is stiffened, or the fabric, being too soft, would sag. The deep bretelle collar is edged with a narrow frill of lace put on without any tullness. The last two toilets portrayed are both dresses capable of varied use, and both are at once handsome and in touch with present acceptances. That at the left hand is in black wool brocaded in oval-shaped silk designs. It has the skirt in three flounces, each edged with black lace. The bodice is of palegreen surah ornamented with two rows of lace insertion. The other gown is in gray cashmere and the skirt is enhanced by two flounces of gathered gray silk. The waist is of white surah, the front covered with rows upon rows of pearl beads. Overskirts grow in elaboration. The edges are cut into battlements and curves, and in loss than no time loop effects will be upon us. Then farewell to grace and beauty, and hail to yards and yards of bulk and weight. Braiding is much used. Capes are covered with it; likewise skirts. Bodices are made over vests covered with rows of braid. Black is the usual color, although on black red is often u»ed. Hatbrinnarc covered with braid set close in rows. A changeable effect is produced by braiding plaid goods closely with rows of black braid. Already material comes braided, the braid being part of the weave and set on edge slightly, but it is very expensive. Copyright. 1893.

Experiments were recently made at Toulon for illuminating the bottom of the sea with electric lamp-. The apparatus employed was sunk six fathoms deep and it illuminated the bottom to a radius of 100 feet. It is thought that the lamp will be of the greatest value for surveying wrecks or reconnoitering for concealed torpedoes

IN PINK AND BLACK.

MOTHER AND DAUGHTER PROMENADING

DOTTED AND PLAIDED.

TWO SKIRTS HAVING FIVE ROWS OF TRIMMING.