Democratic Sentinel, Volume 17, Number 40, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 20 October 1893 — FOR LATE AUTUMN. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

FOR LATE AUTUMN.

CLOTH FOR THE STREET STILL HOLDS FAVOR. Silk, Brocade, and Velvet Suftable Only for the House—Accordion Pleating Blds Pair to Remain—Sleeves an< 'Vesta May Be srt Satin. Gotham Fashion Gassip. New York correspondence:

EVER so much propheqy:and effort on the part of silk dealers etmnot m a k«e i silk, brocade and a velvet suitable for | street wear. Mach I , less can it render satin anything but \ downright dowdy, \ except an an acces- \ sery or lining. 1 Cloth for the street *1 holds favor, not by | right of thecaprice df th e mode, but j because it is the II material that is //" suitable for K use. We shall cloth heavily ornamented with

satin, and the effect will be a good one. Sleeves and revers, vests and 'facings may be of satin, even part of the skirt, may be, but never the whole dress for! outdoor wear. Accordion pleating is, and bids fair to remain, immensely popular. One modification makes the pleat wide at the top and then 1 tapers it to almost a point. This kind is not done much over here yet, but is seen meet on imported dresses. It is used, in blouses and Alee ves, the points of the. ; pleats' narrowing to the wrists and the throat. The sleeves of the dress in the initial picture show accordion pleating, but of the horizontal sort. Below 1 the elbow they are plain .and tight. This gown is fashioned of light-gray cloth, with the skirt perfectly plain add narrowerthan the prevalent mode. The.basque .is -in a modified Russian

blouse form and hooks on the shoulders and side seams. It is fitted to the figure by two long darts which reach to the bottomiof the garment. The collar and belt are made of jet passementerie, and,large jet buttons are putidown the center of the back, as if the dress closed there. The-entire front of the dress in the second picture is covered with a drapery of black tulle strewn with drops of old rose beads and kept in place by a wide ceinture of old rose satin ornamented with beads. The collar is enhanced in. the same way. For the rest, the dress is simple and any woman accustomed to making her own garments can construct it by following this model, and it will look very pretty made in the less .expensive materials than those of the original. The license taken with all the colors of the rainbow brings its retributions to us all whenever we take our walks abroad. In Italy the women wear all colors, the houses are painted all colors, and Nature herself is all colors, and somehow there is nowhere a lack of harmony. But when here a girl in a yellow frock, with green sleeves, parades with another maiden clad in eminence purple combined with magenta, there seems to be something the matter with the public digestion. Somehow, we can’t seem to stand it. A girl cannot look like a lobster mayonnaise, with lettuce, and appeal to us as a picturesque part of the general scene, and when her best friend gets herself up like a four-cordial pousse case, the time has come for more laws, or for more policemen to enforce them. The dress just described is intended for the house, and two other stylish and handsome examples of indoor wear

are shown in the second illustration, That worn by the seated figure is in pale fawn woolen material, and is trimmed with brown velvet and fawn and brown passementerie. The turned down collar, epaulettes, cuffs and bands around the arms are of brown velvet, while the three bands on the skirt are passementerie. These bands are narrow and quite the reverse of showy, but the skirt of the other dress in the same picture is without any trimming whatever. The draped bodice is drawn in at the waist by a folded belt and the front is ornamented with six rows of narrow red passementerie. The long cuffs to the Recamler sleeves and the standing collar have the same ornamentation. It would, indeed, be a difficult taste to please which could not be satisfied with one of the three pretty examples of house gowns. In this connection it is permissible to mention that one well-known dress designer has come out with a tea gown which is as graceful and as clinging as if 1830 had never been called from the housetops, and as trim and daintily molded to the form as if Empire had

not turned *8 'fill loose in short-wateted Mother Hubbards. It i s made of enormously wide shaded soft wool goods going from white to almost chocolate brown. The skirt is neither flaring nor sheath, but seems to hang as the softness of the goods and the pretty lines of the wearer make it. A loose coat is worn, the skirts in front coming to a little above the knees, and the edge being turned loosely back into soft lapel effects that widen over the shoulders and form a point in the back. AU this is as if the cloth itself did it and the tailor only stood by to .see if it had a chance. A wonderful train seems to toe a continuation of the skirts of the coat. Instead of falling away directly to the usual train, there are two points, one at <caeh side, and then a long <one sweeps off, making the full length of the trai®. The whole effect is very graceful and is enhanced by the

artistic use of the shading of the goods. The bodice seen in front under the coat is slashed to show white 'muslin here and there.;and there is a dainty guimpe of it. Tne sleeves are soft puffs of wool, falling over muslin sleeves that are banded around twice by guipure lace. The edge of the skirt is finished with a heavy guipure in points, and the edge of the coat and train has a narrow finish of the same. The whole thing is indescribably graceful and youthful. In the third picture, she who waves her handkerchief in encouragement of 'her favorite is. clad in cream serge, and she who watches anxiously through her field-glass 'is in verdigris crepon. The trimming on the first dress is cream-colored ribbon brocaded with buttercups, and the short jacket is of cream serge and ornamented with four mother-of*pearl buttons. The folded collar and the little gathered vest are of cream crepe. The other skirt is trimmed with four bias bands of satin to match. The bodice is of black crepe de chine, and has a small cape set off with, a lace fichu. The last sketch depicts quite a mannish rig. The jacket is made like a man’s sack,coat, of fine black cheviot, and has no trace of trimming. It is edged with a double row of machine stitching. The vest is cut with a small' V in front, which shows a bit of the shirt front and the masculine collar and tie. The vest is fastened with mother-of-pearl buttons, and a row of the same in larger size ornaments the coat. Topped by a sweetly feminine face this get-up is a strikingly pretty one, but

it is not a safe one for all young women. Black and white has raged so violently and is now so much seen in readymade garments that it is being laid aside by the more careful modistes. It remains, however, satisfactory in very rich combinations. Copyright, 1893.

DRAPED WITH BLACK TULLE.

TWO HANDSOMB HOUSE DRESSES.

ANOTHER WELL-GARBED PAIR.

JUST LIKE A LITTLE MAN.