Democratic Sentinel, Volume 17, Number 40, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 20 October 1893 — Page 5

M’KINLEY’S ANSWERS.

WHAT THEY WOULD HAVE BEEN IN 1890. MRt>w He Would Have '’Me.n Compelled tto Reply if Certain Inter Alfa torles Had Been ; Put to Him—He Nony%ag a Big Job 'Ot 1 His Hands. ____ Questions for McKinley. During has speech at Akron,'©kio, on Sept. HI, Governor McKinley, in one of hislighte of sarcastic eloquence, called upon his “distinguished and able” opponent, “the very author of the tariff plank eff the last Democratic national platform itself, to advise the country exactly what the parly- now in power Will do' with the tariff.” He wants "everything “in detail-and with particularity." And then Sie began with schedule A, and wertt through each ®chedute, asking *whAt will he do” with this or that article. His astonished audience will probably be surprised to learn that Mr. Neal was not rendered Speechless frondthe stunning effects of these categorical questions. Undoubtedly Mr. Neal can defend himself, but suppose he plays “turn flfbout” with McKinleyiand asks a few similar questions of the .great, tariff expert—the" very author not' merely of a ■tariff plank but of a Whole bill, and the ifar-famed McKinley bill at that. “Mr. McKinley, in ‘the spring and oummer of 1890 you'were engaged in rnadking your great bill. If I had theh ■•sked'you, ‘What will you do with tin iplate?’ what could you have told me? »©n.ly l this: ‘Mr. Cronemeyer is fixing 'up paragraph 143 to suit himself. I really can’t tell you what he will do.’ “How about cutlery? What will you <do with it?” “I can’t tell you. Mr. W. ■Rockwell’s wishes must be respected. You know he is a big manufacturer of ■pobketknives.” "“Surely, Major, you can tell me what will be done with table cutlery?” “Sorry, but Mr. Charles S. Landers, who represents the makers of table cutlery, ■has not yet handed in I his corrections and amendments. We shall undoubtedly print his memorandum word for -word. ”

“Can you tell me what will be done with firearms?” “Not just yet—that is, ■.unless the manufacturers want us to adopt the duties proposed when they aappeared before this committee.” “Would you kindly inform me what 'we may expect on woolen goods?” “I would gladly do so if I could. I must rrefer you to Mr. Isaac N. Heidelberger, who will adjust duties in behalf of the ■ wholesale clothing manufacturers, who will frame the two clauses prescribing the taxes on women’s and children's dress goods.” “That seems strange. Certainly you can give the farmers some idea of what you intend to do with wool. ” “My intention will not develop until Judge Lawrence and his National Wool Growers’ Association make known their demands. ” “Just one more question, Major. -You are of course able to say what will be done with steel rails, structural steel, and other articles in the great metal schedule ?” “I’m glad you're going to let ■up on ' these annoying questions. How'Can il tell what conclusion Mr. James M. Swank, Mr. Henry W. Oliver, and • other members of the American Iron and Steel Association will come to? Undoubtedly we will give them J'ustiwhat they want. You see, as Mr. Jingley says, we want to make a bill which Shall be ‘consistent, comprehensive, and complete, with all the different parts properly and justly related.’ To make certain that all will be perfect, we have decided to let the manufacturers who are to be protected fill in their own clauses. This is enentirely proper, as they have been the financial backbone of the Republican party in the past, and we hope they will 'be in the future. Their wishes are entitled to the greatest consideration. You see how it is. I would like to oblige you, but under the circumstances I can’t answer your questions. ” —Byron W. Holt.

Opera-Boutte McKinley. Everybody will remember with what impressive solemnity McKinley pointed out in JLB92, on stump after stump, the fact that owing to the McKinley tariff ■our exports for the fiscal year had grown so large, as to force the importation of $200,000,000 of foreign gold. Some annoying < critics brought: to the ’Governor's attention the statistics of the Treasury Department, wherein it •appeared that the balance of that year's .gold movement was actually on the export side. This made no difference to .McKinley. He answered that if the ’balance of trade had not been settled in gold, it had been settled in something else, and that was the same thing, and he continued thenceforward to ;announce to admiring audiences, exactly as before, that we had imported $2OO;0OO,OOO in gold. We have ino doubt he still believes that the gold really came here, by some subtle and " secret process, and we are quite as sure that he will believe, long after business has comfortably settled down to its old routine, that the wildest kind of panic is still prevailing because the McKinley tariff has been threatened. Fortunately for the national common sense., few people except McKinley himself take*McKinley seriously any longer. It has, moreover, done no small service to the cause of publicenlightenment that the willful blunders of the Shermans and Culloms are invariably reproduced, in the broad lines of caricature, by such operabouffed performers as McKinley and Clarkson. A few years since, people used to suspect that McKinley's tariff arguments might after all be sound, because their conclusions were the same as Sherman’s. Nowadays tilings are reversed, and the fallacies of serious protectionists are turned into general laughter by McKinley’s rediictio ad absurdum.—New York Evening Post.

Short, Sharp Work Best. The Ways and Means Committee t would do well to abridge its tariff hearings. Most of them are merely threshing over old straw. The sooner the country knows exactly what will be the details of tariff changes the sooner will business matters become adjusted to the new conditions. To the extent of the uncertainty as to what the changes will be the tariff question tends to make people cautious; and this is natural, for the merchant does not wish to buy now a large stock of what may soon be cheaper if the tax is removed. Such a condition of affairs was inevitable. It must be experienced in order that the benefits of correcting the wrongs of McKinleyism may be secured. fiut Congress should do all it can to shorten the period of preparation of a new tariff bill and to let the people know as soon as practicable just what they can expect. The necessities of a depleted treasury are such that a layman cannot divine what Congress may find it necessary to change and what to leave as it is. All he wishes is to know upon what basis to buy and sell. Until he does know, of course, he will not make extensive transactions. That is the extent of the effect of tariff agitation upon general business. It is not

Wiff Te'fbrffi is 'feared, for wrf peopki are not so fickle as to turn about •in •». few short months and become frightened at just what they, such little while age, vbted overwhelmingly in •te/or of. —Berne Sentinel.

The Protection Bird in Distress. Are we, hhe people of this United States, all ifools or children without reasoning 'faculties? Evidently the protectionists think we are, or they would not tell us such fairy stories about the tariff. Just listen to McKinley while'he is talking tariff tax theory to tne <£>hio children: “They say a protective tariff is a tax and a burden upon the people. It is a tax upon the foreign producer, and his welfare is not our first concern." And the youngsters ■ clap their hands and shout. They are out for a holiday and want hian'to tell them more about his won-: derftil tariff and about Santa Claus and “•Jack the Giant Killer.” Down in Washington some of McKinley’s compatriots are working the practical or business end of protection. They talk in a more serious vein than the Governor and would feel hurt if the members of the Ways and Mean® Committee should clap their hand® and laugh after each lamentation. Do these manufacturers talk in Washington as McKinley does in Ohio about ’ this tariff tax business? Listen! Mr. Leopold Moritz, of Philadelphia, is speaking earnestly in behalf of the 'retention of the duty on buttons made of bone, horn, etc. He says that in 1889 before the duty was raised foreign manufacturers and importers brought in foreign goods and cut prices ao'that the American industry was on the verge of ruin and extinction. Would he talk this way if the foreigner 'was paying the tax promptly? Then* comes Mr. William Wilkins, of Baltimore, a manufacturer of curled hair and bristles. He says any further reduction of the duty on curled hair and bristles would drive his business to the wall. But what is the difference it the foreigner is punctually paying the'tax? Mr. R. W. Lesley, of the American Cement Company, now rises and pleads against any reduction of the duty Of 8 cents per pound on imported cement. He is chock-full of statistics—as are nearly all of the manufacturers—to prove that day wages are higher here than in Germany—just as if .the* committee were ready to quarrel with him on this point. He is wasting:his time and breath, acccording to McKinley, who ought to know. The price of imported cement must be . just tthe same under either a low «r a high duty, because the duty always comes out of the foreigner. Here comes Joseph Wharton, Vice President of the American Iron and Steel Association, and a whole flock of well-fed iron and steel manufacturers of Pennsylvania, Jlllnois, Alabama, and Tennessee. Nearly all are millionaires .and very important personages. Time is precious with them—worth anywhere from SSO to SSOO a day apiece. They are -sacrificing it, however, in behalf of their dearly beloved workingmen, and the committee looks grave .while each'one tells how anxious he is to pay high wages to his employes, and how sorry he will be to reduce wages or close up his mills, as he will be compelled to do if the duty be reduced. Why is the wherefore of this, Gov. McKinley? Are the foreign manufacturers not philanthropic enough to pay all charges against them, if levied in your name? We know it must be a great strain on theii' generosity to have to pay slls duty when they sell us SIOO worth of window glass; or $146 for every SIOO worth of pearl buttons they sell us; or $162 when they sell us only SIOO worth of worsted cloth, worth less than 30 cents per pound. But we did not think they would betray your confidence. If they have not done so, your manufacturing friends are grossly misrepresenting you at Washington. Or is it only a misunderstanding between the theoretical, or Ohio wing, and the business, or Washington wing, of the great protection bird? Its wings are not flopping together. Is the bird in distress? B. W. H.

Republican Brigandage. There is one Republican newspaper that is sufficiently besotted with partisanship to urge the Senators of its party to make the preservation of the McKinley tariff and the Federal elections law “the price” of aiding in the repeal of the Sherman act. Putting aside the morality of this form of blackmail for ransom, the suggestion is that the country, in order to get relief from one bad Republican law which it has condemned, shall be compelled to endure two other bad Republican laws which the voters have also condemned. Fortunately this sort of brigandage does not commend itself to men having the responsibilities of public office upon them.—New York World.

William’s Big Job. The Hon. William McKinley opened his canvass for re-election as Governor of Ohio in an elaborate set speech, mainly devoted to the herculean task of showing that the financial depression through which the country is passing is not due to the monetary legislar tion cd the Republican party, but to a fear of the repeal of the McKinley bill. In this opinion Mr. McKinley stands •opposed to all the Boards of Trade and commercial bodies in the United States, except, possibly, that of Denver, and to the practically unanimous conviction of the whole world of finance. Possibly he is right and all the rest wrong, but he has a hard task before him if he expects to convince them of their error.—New Age. Sugar, Corn and Cabbage Bounties. Nearly $17,000,000 has been paid in bounties to sugar-growers under the outrageous McKinley law up to Sept. 1. This is direct robbery of the people, as the bounties collected by tariffprotected manufacturers are indirect robbery. There is absolutely no more right or justice in taxing the people to pay bounties to the growers of sugar than there would be in paying bounties to the growers of potatoes, corn or cabbages. This is one big leak in the revenues which the Democrats will stop as soon as they can get at it.

Three Stages. The protected darlings of the Republican party stand hats in hand beging alms of the Democratic Ways ami Means Committtee of Congress. Give us just a year or two longer, begs one, as if the warning that protection must go had not been fairly and clearly and repeatedly given by the people more than a year or two ago. Whether as a squalling infant industry, an insolent, full-grown monopoly or a senile beggar for yet a little longer time to plunder, the protected industry displays a greed that defies satisfaction.—New Age. Here You Have It. In the North Sea lived a whale, McKinley saw him spout. He pnt high tariff upon oil And shut the duffer out. Those monopolists who import cheap foreign labor are again becoming very anxious lest a reduction of tariff duties should prove injurious to “American industry.” The protected manufacturers have much advice to offer the Ways and Means Committee. The people registered their testimony on the Bth of last November

FOR LATE AUTUMN.

CLOTH FOR THE STREET STILL HOLDS FAVOR. Silk, Brocade, and Velvet Suftable Only for the House—Accordion Pleating Blds Pair to Remain—Sleeves an< 'Vesta May Be srt Satin. Gotham Fashion Gassip. New York correspondence:

EVER so much propheqy:and effort on the part of silk dealers etmnot m a k«e i silk, brocade and a velvet suitable for | street wear. Mach I , less can it render satin anything but \ downright dowdy, \ except an an acces- \ sery or lining. 1 Cloth for the street *1 holds favor, not by | right of thecaprice df th e mode, but j because it is the II material that is //" suitable for K use. We shall cloth heavily ornamented with

satin, and the effect will be a good one. Sleeves and revers, vests and 'facings may be of satin, even part of the skirt, may be, but never the whole dress for! outdoor wear. Accordion pleating is, and bids fair to remain, immensely popular. One modification makes the pleat wide at the top and then 1 tapers it to almost a point. This kind is not done much over here yet, but is seen meet on imported dresses. It is used, in blouses and Alee ves, the points of the. ; pleats' narrowing to the wrists and the throat. The sleeves of the dress in the initial picture show accordion pleating, but of the horizontal sort. Below 1 the elbow they are plain .and tight. This gown is fashioned of light-gray cloth, with the skirt perfectly plain add narrowerthan the prevalent mode. The.basque .is -in a modified Russian

DRAPED WITH BLACK TULLE.

blouse form and hooks on the shoulders and side seams. It is fitted to the figure by two long darts which reach to the bottomiof the garment. The collar and belt are made of jet passementerie, and,large jet buttons are putidown the center of the back, as if the dress closed there. The-entire front of the dress in the second picture is covered with a drapery of black tulle strewn with drops of old rose beads and kept in place by a wide ceinture of old rose satin ornamented with beads. The collar is enhanced in. the same way. For the rest, the dress is simple and any woman accustomed to making her own garments can construct it by following this model, and it will look very pretty made in the less .expensive materials than those of the original. The license taken with all the colors of the rainbow brings its retributions to us all whenever we take our walks abroad. In Italy the women wear all colors, the houses are painted all colors, and Nature herself is all colors, and somehow there is nowhere a lack of harmony. But when here a girl in a yellow frock, with green sleeves, parades with another maiden clad in eminence purple combined with magenta, there seems to be something the matter with the public digestion. Somehow, we can’t seem to stand it. A girl cannot look like a lobster mayonnaise, with lettuce, and appeal to us as a picturesque part of the general scene, and when her best friend gets herself up like a four-cordial pousse case, the time has come for more laws, or for more policemen to enforce them. The dress just described is intended for the house, and two other stylish and handsome examples of indoor wear

TWO HANDSOMB HOUSE DRESSES.

are shown in the second illustration, That worn by the seated figure is in pale fawn woolen material, and is trimmed with brown velvet and fawn and brown passementerie. The turned down collar, epaulettes, cuffs and bands around the arms are of brown velvet, while the three bands on the skirt are passementerie. These bands are narrow and quite the reverse of showy, but the skirt of the other dress in the same picture is without any trimming whatever. The draped bodice is drawn in at the waist by a folded belt and the front is ornamented with six rows of narrow red passementerie. The long cuffs to the Recamler sleeves and the standing collar have the same ornamentation. It would, indeed, be a difficult taste to please which could not be satisfied with one of the three pretty examples of house gowns. In this connection it is permissible to mention that one well-known dress designer has come out with a tea gown which is as graceful and as clinging as if 1830 had never been called from the housetops, and as trim and daintily molded to the form as if Empire had

not turned *8 'fill loose in short-wateted Mother Hubbards. It i s made of enormously wide shaded soft wool goods going from white to almost chocolate brown. The skirt is neither flaring nor sheath, but seems to hang as the softness of the goods and the pretty lines of the wearer make it. A loose coat is worn, the skirts in front coming to a little above the knees, and the edge being turned loosely back into soft lapel effects that widen over the shoulders and form a point in the back. AU this is as if the cloth itself did it and the tailor only stood by to .see if it had a chance. A wonderful train seems to toe a continuation of the skirts of the coat. Instead of falling away directly to the usual train, there are two points, one at <caeh side, and then a long <one sweeps off, making the full length of the trai®. The whole effect is very graceful and is enhanced by the

ANOTHER WELL-GARBED PAIR.

artistic use of the shading of the goods. The bodice seen in front under the coat is slashed to show white 'muslin here and there.;and there is a dainty guimpe of it. Tne sleeves are soft puffs of wool, falling over muslin sleeves that are banded around twice by guipure lace. The edge of the skirt is finished with a heavy guipure in points, and the edge of the coat and train has a narrow finish of the same. The whole thing is indescribably graceful and youthful. In the third picture, she who waves her handkerchief in encouragement of 'her favorite is. clad in cream serge, and she who watches anxiously through her field-glass 'is in verdigris crepon. The trimming on the first dress is cream-colored ribbon brocaded with buttercups, and the short jacket is of cream serge and ornamented with four mother-of*pearl buttons. The folded collar and the little gathered vest are of cream crepe. The other skirt is trimmed with four bias bands of satin to match. The bodice is of black crepe de chine, and has a small cape set off with, a lace fichu. The last sketch depicts quite a mannish rig. The jacket is made like a man’s sack,coat, of fine black cheviot, and has no trace of trimming. It is edged with a double row of machine stitching. The vest is cut with a small' V in front, which shows a bit of the shirt front and the masculine collar and tie. The vest is fastened with mother-of-pearl buttons, and a row of the same in larger size ornaments the coat. Topped by a sweetly feminine face this get-up is a strikingly pretty one, but

JUST LIKE A LITTLE MAN.

it is not a safe one for all young women. Black and white has raged so violently and is now so much seen in readymade garments that it is being laid aside by the more careful modistes. It remains, however, satisfactory in very rich combinations. Copyright, 1893.

PILGRIMAGES TO MECCA

Result In Many Deaths from Exhaustion and Starvation. No race has been more enthusiastic in the way of pilgrimage to Mecca, the Holy City of Arabia, than that inhabiting the Malay peninsula and archipelago. It would not, at first, seem that the journey—made principally in well-appointed ships—involved any particular hardships. But the usual conditions of the “pilgrim traffic” are somewhat different from those of ordinary passenger vessels. The Malay pilgrim provides his own provisions while on board ships. The steamers, as a rule, are overcrowded. Should an epidemic break out during the voyage, the death rate becomes fearful. Tne worst hardships, however, commence on landing at the unhealthy port of Jeddah. Few of the pilgrims provide themselves with sufficient food to tramp the greater portion of the 100 miles which separate the city of Mecca from the port. Yet worse is their condition on returning. The price of food is exorbitant, and thousands perish annually of exhaustion >nd insufficient nourishment. The result is that a large number of those who visit Mecca never return to their own country.

According to Circumstances.

It is a noted fact in natural history that in tracing the development of any species it is found that that which has, through environment, been unused for many generatiens gradually disappears. As, for instance, as given by a naturalist, the erect ear of the natives of the forest. By domestication dogs finally lost the necessity for extreme alertness, and the muscles used in erecting the ear finally became powerless. Dentists will tell you that originally man had several more teeth, but that with civilization and consequent change of food their necessity was gone, and they gradually disappeared, the jaw finally shortening in proportion. So it is with individuals. Mental muscles, as well as physical ones, will become flaccid and useless unless kept in repair by exercises. To be at our best, we must exercise every faculty in reason.

FOR THE FAIR SEX.

DRESSES FOR AUTUMN. Many handsome dress models for auumn wear show the bodice laced, hooked, or buttoned down the back—a most becoming fashion on a graceful figure, and a commendable one for certain gowns if one has a maid or a friend always available, but if chance services have to be depended upon, this graceful style must be sacrificed, for be the arms ever so long and patience like Job’s, one will never succeed in buttoning the gown all the way down the back. —[St. Louis liepublic. A MARKETING COSTUME. A neat costume for marketing may be composed of the following: A dress made from some quiet wash-silk or sateen, with a bell skirt and plain waist—one or two narrow rutiles may ornament the skirt, while the waist may be cut low at the neck, so that a shirt front can be worn with it. A sailor hat with a band of ribbon around it, a pair of lisle-thread gloves, tan shoes and a silk umbrella. If your marketing dress is made of flannel or cloth have several rows of machine stitching around the bottom as a finish. —[New York World. HOW TO LOOK COOL SUDDENLY. If you come in after a long round of shopping and receive a sudden summons to the parlor to meet some unexpected guest, do not be dismayed at the crimson face which meets your eye as you stand before your dressing tabic mirror. Likewise do not seek a remedy in the bath room. Many women think the only way to cool off is to bathe the face lavishly in cool water. This is a great mistake, and with a thin skin will only intensify the color, and the last estate of this woman shall be worse than the first. Dash the water ou throat and neck as freely as you choose, particularly at the back of the neck, but if the face is bathed at all let it be done sparingly, then sponge it with Florida water and lastly apply a generous coating of powder. You will look ghastly, but let the powder remain while you add the few necessary touches to your toilet. Thea, just as you are to descend to the parlor, dust off all superfluous powder lightly, and you will welcome your guest fresh and cool, not only in appearance, but in reality.— [Washington Star.

TRAINED WOMEN COOKS. The heavy part of domestic labor will after a time be done by machinery and by professional cleaners and scrubbers who go from house to house, but there will always be demand for trained women cooks. There is something fine and aesthetic in the preparation of dainty food. The labor is not severe, and the mixing and cooking of choice and healthful foods, such as civilized beings ought to eat, require a degree of intellectual power not less than is demanded to write a good poem. If not exactly an intellectual occupation, high class cooking comes so near it that it must be considered fully as honorable as the profession of trained nurse. By all means women with a taste that way should train themselves for skilled cooks. Then, with good grammar, courteous manners, spotless white nprons and caps, they could command their own price and an honorable position socially. What the trained nurse has accomplished for herself along this line the trained woman cook can do for herself.—[St. Louis Star-Say-ings.

THE USEFUL HAIRPIN. The use of the hairpin is as great a mystery to the average man as the spread of the cholera is to the scientist, despite the fact that nearly every man has at some period of his existence been designated as a “hairpin” of some kind or other by one of his irate fellows, says the Cincinnati Enquirer. For the benefit of these, as well as the gentler sex, which uses it so extensively, but which is generally unaware of the means or manner of its manufacture, we append a few statistics. Hairpins are made by automatic and very complicated machines. The coiled wire is put upon drums and becomes straightened as it feeds itself to the machine. It passes along until it reaches two cutters, which point the end at the same time they cut it the length required. This piece of wire then slips along an iron plate un..l it reaches a slot, through which it is pressed into regular shape. The hairpins are then put into a pan and japanned, after which they are heated in an oven with a temperature of from 300 to 400 degrees. There are but four American factories. The largest are in Birmingham and Waterbury, Conn., the others are in Philadelphia and Brooklyn. Five hundred thousand dollars’ worth of hairpins are annually imported from England, France and Germany. Judging by the immense amount of money thus expended it would appear that the headgear of a large portion of our feminine population is somewhat extraneous.

MOURNING STATIONERY.

Mourning stationery shows greater changes than dress. The deep, blackedged paper and cards are no longer in vogue. A lady who sets many fashions in New York has recently ordered her monogram stamped in black on plain white paper. Many use stationery with a narrow border but do away with crest and monogram while in mourning. If the address be used it is of course stamped in black. Black sealing wax is fashionable, and this has banished crest and monogram from the envelope. During second mourning gray paper has become popular, and gray sealing wax matching the uvelope takes the place of black. When heliotrope is reached in dress heliotrope wax may be employed on envelopes. Memorial cards, which have gone out in England, are occasionally ordered, but the custom is not general. Nor is it considered obligatory to send even a card in answer to a call or letter of condolence. Death releases the afflicted from all social obligations for a period of not lees than a year. Should “complimentary mourning” ever be introduced among us it is possible that those who live beyond their income might resort to a device said to have been used in England, where pater families finds it cheaper sometime* to buy black gowns for his wife, daughters and servants ostensibly for the death of a distant relative rather than fb return certain dinners and balls for which they are indebted to their acquaintances.— [St. Louis Republic.

FASHION NOTES. Leather bindings will supersede velvet on the bottom of dress skirts. Diamond ivy leaves and pearl berries form long sprays for the front of an evening gown.

The Marie Antoinette flehu of silk muslin trimmed with laoe is a great favorite with the young ladies, to wear as a summer mantle. Felix has brought out new sleeves for summer dresses that are composed entirely of frills of three-inch lace from the shoulders; they are edged with Irish guipure, bead fringe or passementerie. The notched lapel collar, which so often appears on tailor-made gowns, loses much of its severity when applied upon the short, full waist of a lately-designed street costume. Sloped gores let into the back of a lounging gown produce a graceful bell effect, and an oddly shaped sailor collar heightens the attractiveness of the garment. A collarette that is coming forward in cotton gowns, and will be repeated in wool later on, is a three-quarter circle, shaped to fit smoothly around the shoulders, and folded to points in front. It is effective in the stiff linon and heavy cotton goods. White braid is most used for the trimming of yachting costumes, though many of the skirts arc quite plain, the revets of the coat being faced and the blouses, or shirt fronts, giving scope for color. Linens this year arc worn for quite dressy occasions—at the races, at garden parties, summer church weddings, etc. Their trim tailor make does much toward rendering them au fait for such uses. Flax gray, pale and deep blue, ecru and chocolate colors are all well worn among the linens, ducks and piques of the season. In evening drosses there is a radical change in the sleeves. The large, full puffs are gradually disappearing, and in their place is a bell-shaped sleeve made of frills lined with a definite color; in fact, all sleeves are becoming less pretentious, and in a very little time the grotesque and aggressive hump on the top of the shoulder will subside altogether. As the chief idea jMt now is to be cool, many ladies have adopted dark or black orepon skirts, with which they wear pale pink, pale blue, mauve, yellow, black or white finely-plaited chiffon blouses ornamented with narrow insertions of Valenciennes, Bruges or guipure in black or biso. Designed expressly for deck and shore wear is a costume in cream serge, striped with fine lines of dark blue. The short jacket is faced with dark blue, and is ornamented with knots and loops of white and gold cord. The white linen vest is fastened down the front with small gilt buttons, and is left open nt the neck, to show collar and cravat. I’llo jaunty cap is of blue and white serge and with the name of a yacht printed on the band.

A new and not particularly graceful fashion is that of plaiting bias bands of silk in rose-ruching fashion and placing them around the shoulders of lace capes. The bands for plaiting are about ton inches wide. A very wide sash-ribbon was recently used on a cape, being plaited very full and used to outline the round yoke, the ends falling almost to the hem of the skirt. Nine yards of ribbon were used in the plaiting.

CRIMINALS’ EYES.

They Betray the Nature of Their Possessor Frequently. Eyes are the most certain revealers of the criminal nature, says Donohoe’* Magazine. Many an expert detective tells a criminal by iust one glance—not at him, but from him. The criminal eye varies greatly in setting, but not sb ranch in color. Sometimes it is deeply placed in the head, as if it tried to hide, fearing the result of its own involuntary revelations. Sometimes it is bulgy, protruaive like a frog’s and heavy lidded. Such eyes, taken in connection with some other signs, denote treachery, lechery, loquacity, mendacity and general cruelty, with just enough cowardice to prevent the criminal from doing murder, except insidiously or through others. Of the criminal eye there are many remarkable anecdotes. The murderer Francesconi had little about him to indicate the ferocity that ambushed in his breast. His forehead was high and smooth, his beard was plentiful. To most people he rendered himself rather companionable by a certain cheap facetiousness that often masquerades as wit, and on account of this social quality Francesconi’s conceit was tolerated, and his huge egotism did not have its full chance to repel people. But years before his crime a young girl—afterwards the Countess della Rocca—who bad never left home and who lacked experience of life, recoiled from him violently when introduced, and refused to endure his presence. When questioned why she behaved thus towards one who stood* so high socially she answered: “If that man has not already murdered people he will do so.” This girlish prophecy very soon came true, and when Lombroso inquired by what sign she had foretold, she replied: “The eyes—l saw him in his eyes.” ■ The eye of the criminal is a frightful thing, frequently mesmeric in its effects, and planting itself in the memory like the glance of a snake from a poisonous tropic jungle. Once beheld it can rarely be forgotten, except by some special mercy that dips us deep in Lethe. No one would wish to remember that kind of eye or look, but my father once gained a case by his sudden recollection of it. A witness very damaging to his client had testified that) on a certain day two years before he was present at a certain interview. The keenest cross examination failed to shake him, and as my father’s face took on a vexed expression, a triumphant smile of conceited cunning stole out of the beady black eyes of the witness. Where bad my father seen that peculiar look before? Suddenly it Hashed across him. “ Were you ever in Charlestown Jail?" he asked impulsively. The witness began to stammer out a denial. “Were you not in Charlestown Jail?" thundered the lawyer, “on the very day you have sworn you were present elsewhere?” The witness wilted. It was true, and the man had been committing perjury.

Roast Loin of Veal.—Take a white and fat loin of veal with the kidney attached ; saw off the spine and remove what is left of the hip-bone, season with salt and pepper; tie up the flap over the kidney, put in a buttered sautoir with a glass of water, and butter on top; cover with a buttered paper, and cook in a moderate oven for nearly two hours, basting occasionally with the gravy; drain, untie, place on a dish, add a little broth to the sautoir, skim the fat, reduce to a demi-glaze sauce, strain over the veal and serve.—[Deliee. Phonograph cylinders are now made of a size suitable for mailing. They have a capacity of 200 words.

Growth of Finger Nails.

A prominent uptown manicure wh» has devoted many years to the study of the subject states as the result of hi* observations that the finger nails of the human species grow more rapidly in children than in adults, and That the growth is slowest with the aged. His observations, however, do not stop at thia, for he finds that both in childhood and age they grow faster in summer than in winter, in one instance a nail that required 132 days to renew in winter renewed Jn summer in exactly 116 days. During both seasons the patient upon whom this experiment waa made enjoyed normal health. The method of testing this growth was in each instance the same. The nail was pared close and slightly notched at the quick. Both the right and the left hand were studied, with the result that he affirms that the growth of finger nails is more rapid on the right hand than on the left. As the person was right-handed it is presumed that the contrary is true of left-handed individuals. One peculiarity of the growth of finger nails injiddition to those stated is that the period of renewal differs proportionately with the length of the fingers. Thus it is more rapid in the middle fingers than any other. In the fingers on either side the middle finger the period of renewal is about equal and slower. It is even more slow in the little finger, and slowest of all in the thumb. Comparing the same fingers of the different hands, the person who discovered these curious phases of growth states that on an average the nails on the left hand fingers of a right-handed person require eighty-two days longer to renew than those of the left hand. In one particular the growth of the nails and hair and beard are governed by the same law, that of growing more rapidly in summer than in winter. —[New York Herald. .

Chinese Cucumbers.

Down in Miles River Neck, Talbot county, there is a spot where the average Chinese would delight to dwell. It is a place where Chinese cucumbers grow to tin enormous size. This vegetable, however, assumes sometimes a shape which frightens the natives of the neighborhood, in spite of the fact that Talbot is a local option county (Baltimore American). The cucumber grows long and slim, and at times twists itself into coils resembling a snake. A man going from Easton the other day to Miles River terry, in passing a little clearing in the woods, noticed a green looking object in a patch of vegetables, and be got over the fence to make a closer examination. He almost fainted. Another citizen came along soon afterward. The first man hud revived and was leaving the patch at a Nancy Hanks gait. When accosted ho said to his friend: “Been bit by a snake; woods full of ’em.” Citizen No. 2 persuaded the frightened man to go buck, and upon examination the snake proved to be a Chinese cucumber about twenty-seven inches long, which,, in the course of growth, had twisted itself up in the form of a snake. The cucumber was sent to the American office by express yesterday. It was grown on the lartn of L. W. Trail, of Milee River Neck, and its shape is perfectly snakclikc. Mr. Trail, it is said, has a quarter of an acre of them. The Chinese cucumber is not eaten to any extent in this country, except by Chinese and a few foolish cows. The former, however, import them in a dried condition from their native land,as they do stale eggs and other odorous luxuries. The Chinese like, to see cucumbers grow and and they cultivate them in tbeir yards in the citiesover here. The snakelike appearance of the vegetable does not frighten the slanteyed foreigner, as he would eat with, relish a garter-snake if he didn’t happen to have anything else handy.

Pies by the Ten Thousand.

One hardly realizes the capacity of tho New Englander for pie until he is told that Boston has a pie bakery capable of turning out 10,000 pics a day, and that it is running nt its full capacity all the time. Most of the work is done by machinery under the direction of experts, who know just whut a pie should be, and the product is of all sort* and sizes, from the ordinary pumpkin pie to the most delicious mince, and from a little pie worth s nickel to a huge rectangular affair that will feed a family. One of the most interesting operations is the baking. It is arranged so that a big wheel, at least 12 feet long and 16 in diameter, is suspended by its axle in a big oven under which is u glowing fire. Hung from the rims of this wheel at equal distances from each other are eight iron platform*, upon which pies are placed. Such is the manner of suspension that they always remain horizontal. This wheel is revolved by power. One of these platforms is before the opening in the oven, which opening is as large as the wheel itself. The attendants cover this platform with pies, and the wheel is turned until the next one comes into view, which is then filled, and so on until the eight have been supplied. The next turn bring* into view the first lot put in, and they are ready to take out. They are removed and the platform filled again. The wheel turns and another baked lot is presented, and so it goes on day after day, 1,000 an hour taking their course over this pit of fire.—[Picayune.

Shark and Dolphin Fight.

I saw a fight between a fourtcen-foot shark and a he dolphin. The sea wo* incarnadined with blood. The equal battle raged because each scavenger of the sea had been predatorily feeding or poaching on the other’s moss-bunker preserves. It takes four bushel baskets of moss-bunkers , for one he dolphin’s breakfast. The fight raged fifteen minutes. The shark had to turn over to use his mouth. I know some lawyers who make profitable and golden use of the mouth in debate and don't turn over at all. When the shark was trying to get in its fine work the dolphin eviscerated the sen scavenger and that ended the fight, and the porpoise danefed up and down and leaped over the body of its dead foe, as a New York lawyer doeswhen he gets an extra $250 allowance for costs or counsel fees!—[Forest and Stream. Most of our perfumes come from flowers or are made in imitation of the scents of flowers, so attar of roses, by a common consent, ranks at the head of the list of perfumes. Other preparations from roses, too, hold a high place and have long been esteemed. Rosewater is historic. When Saladin entered Jerusalem in the twelfth century, he had the walls of the Mosque of Omar washed with it. But attar or oil of roses is by far the most precious and most prized of all. An Eastern prince will present to an honored guest rich jewels, rubies, and diamonds, and then add as the rarest of all a crystal bottle filled with this priceless essence.