Democratic Sentinel, Volume 17, Number 38, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 6 October 1893 — Page 5

THE JOKERS’ BUDGET.

JESTS- AND YARNS BY FUNNY MEN OF THE PRESS. One Conquest—The Staff of Mfe—An Unreasonable Quarrel —He Knew What He Meant-The Point of View, Etc., Etc. OX* CONQUEST. Oh, yes, she it homely, No doubt of it, sir, Yet I saw a mosquito Once mashed upon her. —[New York Press. THE STAFF OF LIFE. “I can’t see why bread should remain at the same price when wheat and flour have come down so." “My dear boy, the main things in bread are water and air. Neither one is a cent cheaper than it was at the close of the war."—[lndianapolis Journal. AH UNREASONABLE QUARREL. She —I know Pm unreasonable! That is a woman’s privilege! He—But isn’t it unreasonable for you to want to be unreasonable? She (hotly)—No; but it is unreasonable for you not to want me to be unreasonable. He (mildly)—lt strikes me that is an unreasonable proposition. She (triumphantly)—Of course it is, for I made it! (They kiss and make friends.)—[Puck. HE KNEW WHAT HR MEANT. He—l love you l»etter than life. She—ls you love me so much as that why will you annoy me by asking me to marry you? He—When I say I love you better than life I mean better than life without you. —[Boston Transcript. THE POINT OF YIEW. Harry—Mamma, can I go and play with Tommy Bonser? His Mother—l think you ought to be particular about the company you associate with, dear. What kind of a boy is Tommy Bonser? Harry—He’s the best little boy in town, mamma. Harry’s Father—Then he has no business to be playing with you, my son.— [Chicago Tribune.

COURAGEOUS ALWAYS. She—You are not afraid to ask papa, are you? He—Afraid? The idea of vou doubting my courage when I haJ the bravery to ask you.—[lndianapolis Journal. ANOTHER GREAT DISCOVERY. First Traveler—Why is that pompous fellow strutting about so absurdly? Second Traveler —He found some ham in his railway sandwich. UNDENIABLE. “She was a woman without a past.” “Who?" “Eve.”—[Life. AXOTHER STORY. Askem Where’s the rich heiress you’re engaged to ? Tell urn—You see that lovely girl in pink at the other side of the room? Askem—Yes. 1 say, old man, what a superb— Tellum—Well, it isn’t she. It’s that grand old ruin in yellow sitting next her. -[New York Herald. GAINING PERENNIAL YOUTH. Gertie—How old is Maud ? Ethel—She has been 28 ever since a fire in her house burned up the family Bible six years ago.—[Chicago Record. CONTRADICTORY. Jack—There is one peculiar thing about love. Tom—Yes? Jack—lt makes a fellow feel that he would like to die for his darling, and at the same time strengthens his determination to keep on living for her sake. — [New York Herald. GREAT SAVING IN LEATHER. Little Diok —Papa, didn’t you tell mamma we must economize? Papa—l did, my son. Little Dick—Well, I was thinkin’ that mebby if you’d get me a pony I wouldn’t wear out so many shoes. A KINDLY WAY. Miss Fuzzle—l want to break my engagement with Mr. Sappie, but I don’t know how to do it without driving the poor fellow to suicide? Little Brother—Why don’t you let him see you in curl papers.

A FAIR PROPOSITION. “I wish,” sighed Jar ley to his wife, “that I could get a receipt for happiness.” “Well, perhaps some time if you will give me h little happiness, I’ll give you a receipt for it,” returned Mrs. J.— {Harper's Bazar. they’re worth it. The blessed girls, our loyalty To them shall never falter! We’re willing to stand up for them— Even at the altar. —[Detroit Free Press. IT MAKBB NO DIFFERENCE. “I suppose you don’t believe in courtship,” said the paragraphist laughingly to the President of the gas company. “Why tfdt ?” asked the President. “Because lovers always turn the gas down, you know. Ha! ha! ha!" “Oh, that makes no difference,” said the President “The meter gets in its work just the same." —[Texas Siftings. i ' HARRY 8 STORY. Harry was in the baby class at school, and when it came his turn to tell a story about the problem, “seven less six," this was what he told: “My dog was sick and I had seven doctors. After a while I sent away six and then the dog got well.”—[Youth’s Companion. A COMFORTING REPLY. His Fiar.eec —I do dread to meet your family. I’m afraid they will think I’m not dignified enough. He—Oh, no, the girls will take to you directly. She—Whifch one shall I like best? He—My youngest sister, Flossie, I think. She’s an awfully silly little thing, and I’m sure you’ll get on capitally together.—[Truth. TOO MUCH FOR ONE WHEEL, “Look here, young man,” said the medical practitioner, “ if you ride a wheel so much you’ll get ‘Kyphosis Bicyclistarum.’ ” “On this wheel?” “Yes, sir." “Well,” replied the wheelman, “if I do. one of us will have to get off and walk.”—[Washington Star.

NOT A ROMANCE. Locked in her room, five times a day She sets a treasured gift before her, And sits and dreams the hours away, Her fond gaze that of an adorer. What memory does the treasure bring That she should count it dear and dearer? Is there a love tale in the thing? Not quite! It’s just her largest mirror. —[Chicago Record. BILKINB IN PAIN. Mr. Bilkins —Ouch! Woo! Whoop! I can’t stand this toothache any longer. Hurry round to Dr. Pullem’s at once. Mrs. Bilkins—Well? Mr. Bilkins—lf—if he isn’t in, tell him to come and pull this tooth.—[New York Weekly.

papa’s opinions on education. Little Dick—l told the teacher yo« didn’t remember half the things you studied at school. Papa—l am glad you did. There is no use in all this stuffing, and the teaohers ought to know it. What did she say? Little Dick—She said she guessed I was a chip o’ the ole block. —[Good News. OUT OF POLITICS. Foreign Visitor—You have a glorious country here, and fairly revel in the blessings of freedom, I suppose? Mr. Crossroads—Wall, as to that, we don’t take much interest in politics up onr way. The post-office don’t half pay expenses, and so all parties patriotically agreed to retire from the political field and let a soldier’s widow have it. —[New .York Weekly. MAY HAVE BEEN RIGHT AFTER ALL. “My! Jingleberry, what a gash you have in your cheek!’’ “It is pretty bad." “How did you get it?” “ Shaving.” “You must have an idiot for a barber.” “Don’t you call me an idiot.” “I didn’t.” “Yes, you did. I shave mrself!’’— [Harper’s Bazar.

DIAGNOSIS. Mrs. Gumbleton—Oh, doctor! I’m afraid I swallowed my false teeth in my sleep! Dr. Wagg—Don’t be alarmed, my dear madam. Do you feel a gnawing sensation?—[Puck. THE RETORT COURTEOUS. “Madam," said the gypsy, “let me tell your fortune?” “ No; go away,” snapped the elder female at the door. “Pardon,” returned the gypsy; “I had not noticed that madam’s fortune had been told years ago.”—[Judge. THE BRIGHT SIDE OF IT. Eastern Capitalist—You don’t seem to have many people here. Boomtown Land Agent—But think of the unrivaled opportunities that gives for growth of population!” ONE OF HER PLIGHTED LOVERB. Maud—How dreadfully awkward! Elaine—What’s awkward? Maud—l’m engaged to that man we just passed and I can’t think of his name. A PLEASANT NOTE. Wife (a widow newly married) —Do you speak German? Husband—Oh, yes. “Well, occasionally address me in that language.” “Why.” “It will remind me of my first dear husband.”—[Texas Siftings. GETTING TOO SERIOUS. Elaine—Why did you break off your engagement with George? Gladys—You see. we were forced to be together a good deal, and I found I was getting fond of him.—[Chicago Reord.

The Evil of Fretting.

There is one sin which seems to me is everywhere and by-everybody underestimated and quite too much overlooked in valuation of character. »It is the sin of fretting; so common that unless it rises above its usual monotone, we do not observe it. Watch any ordinary coming together of people, and see how many minutes it will be before somebody frets —that is, makes more or less complaining statement of something or other, which most probably every one in the room, or in the car, or on the street corner, it may be, knew before, and which probably nobody can help. Why say anything about it? It is cold, it is hot, it is wet, it is dry; somebody has broken an appointment; ill cooked a meal; stupidity or bad faith somewhere has resulted in discomfort. There are plenty of things to fret about. It is simply astonishing how much annoyance may be found in the course of every day’s living, even at the simplest, if one only keeps a sharp eye out on that side of things. Even Holy Writ says we are prone to trouble as sparks to fly upward. But even to the sparks flying upward in the blackest of smoke there is a blue sky above, and the less time they waste on the road the sooner they will reach it. Fretting is all time wasted on the road.— [New York Advertiser.

AROUND THE HOUSE.

If dish towels and cloths are boiled up in water with ammonia every second day there will be less trouble with sticky dishes. To prevent starch from sticking a good plan istoput a teaspoonful of clean white lard into a pint of thick starch while hot and stir it thoroughly through the mixture. Powdered French chalk is recommended for cleaning light summer woolens. It is very inexpensive and may therefore be used liberally. Cover the soiled parts thickly with the chalk, let it remain a day or two, and then remove with a camel’s hair velvet brush. It is claimed that in most coses this treatment will oause the spots to disappear entirely.

For the Nails.

A bit of emory paper two inches long by three-quarters of an inch wide is far better for the nails than a file; it can slip under them and gently remove any little roughness that a file would only aggravate and it is very gentle in its treatment of the tiny color spots that thimble, racquets or pens seein determined to produce. Slip the emory paper into your pocket-book with the hair-pin and the extra postage stamp and you are armed against all emergencies. No other manicure tool than the emory- paper is necessary, for a finer polish oan be produced by quick, light rubbing of the nails of one hand on the ball of the other thumb than by all the chamois skin or velvet polishers in creation.

WORKINGMEN SPEAK.

TEXTILE WORKERS REBUKE THE PROTECTIONISTS. With Free Raw Material They Say They Cau Distance the World—Wanes Often Reduced Under McKinley Rule—A Peep Behind the Scenes. Their Story Told. On Sept. 12, the New York Press, with juggler-of-statistios Robert P. Porter at the helm, said editorially: LET THE WORKINGMEN SPEAK. In Philadelphia the workingmen In the toxtlle Industries are making a movement of their own for presentation to the Ways and Means Committee of a protest against severe reduction of the tariff duties. This example should be followed by the workingmen In the protected industries all over the country. A great number of these men have always been proteotionists from conviction and self-interest; and even those of them who have permitted themselves to be persuaded that the tariff hae no Influence to maintain high wages have been ondeoeived by recent experience. They perceive now that the mere threat of duty reduction has Inflicted semi-paralysis upon manufactures and has already begun that process of reducing wages which must be continued upon a large scale when tariff revision shall be an accomplished faot. The dullest mind among them may perceive that', when the tariff barriers shall be removed. Amerl. an wages must fall to the European level or the manufacturers must continue operations. The manufacturers made the light last year and in preced ng years against this change, and they were defeated. This year It must be made by the workingmen If it Is to be made with any hope of sucoess, and the time to aot Is now, when the Ways and Means Committee has oonsented to hear those who favor and tbose who disapprove the proposed revision. The politicians at Washington will heed the petitions of t e workmen, where the plea of the manufacturer would be regarded with Indifference. The manufacturer nas been denounced as a robber and aa oppressor of the workman. But when the laborer himself shall protest that the tariff operate* to his advantage, the free traders no longer can claim to be his chamolons.

On September 11, while Porter or his assistant was preparing this editorial, the unemployed textile workers of Kensington, a suburb of Philadelphia, were holding a meeting on a vacant lot and doing some talking on their own account. Anticipating the advice of the press, they appointed a committee to present their views before the Ways and Means Committee. The following is from the Philadelphia Record of Sept. 12: The genuine workingmen of Kensington, who favor tariff reform and free raw materials, and who do not believe that the recent financial stringency was oansed by any fear of tariff revision, sh rply rebuked the bogUB workmen and oalamity-howlers yesterday at a meeting of unemployed mill hands assembled on a lot In the rear of Bromley's Lehigh avenue mills. There were hundreds of protectionists In the crowd that faced the speakers, but not one of them had the courage to attempt to answer the speakers, who had gained their knowledge from actual work in the mills. Beyond an occasional derisive shout from the outskirts of the crowd, the speakers were uninterrupted save by applause. The meeting was oallea for the purpose of appointing a committee to solicit alms for the suffering victims of the manufacturers’ avarice. James Schaffer was the first speaker, and for nearly an hour he advanced arguments In favor of free raw materials. He said; “1 have been selected chairman of this meeting and of the oommlttee to aolicit alms for the suffering families of the unemployed. What Is the oause of this destitution? The manufacturers tell you they cannot run their places for fear of a reduotloa In the tariff. Now, for four years, under the highest protective duties ever levied, your oondltion has been growing worse. You know that wages hare been reduced and that In not one but & dozen establishments hereabouts there have been two and three reductions since the McKinley bill went into effect. WHY HOUSES ABB VACANT. There are now 50.000 untenanted houses In Philadelphia, and fully two-thirds of them have been made vacant by the advances In rent made by the manufacturers, which have driven the people into the streets. I have taken pains to Inform Chairman Wilson, of the Ways and Means Committee of Congress, Of the true feeling among the working people of this section, and that John Stewart, and those associated with him In getting the petitions for the retention of the tariff are merely the cat’s-paws of the manufacturers. I would like to hare some one demonstrate to you now how the taxation of the McKinley bill benefits the workingman- The mills are closed, and where any work Is being done the workmen are submitting to part time at reduced wages to fight starvation. The people who got up the tariff petitions went Into grog shops and secured the signatures of men who did not know what they were signing. Here are the men and there Is the maohtneiy; now give us the free raw material and we oan not only compete with but distance the world. LACK CURTAIN WEATEBS PROTEST. The members of Branch No. I of the Lace Curtain Weaver's Amalgamated Society hare adopted resolutions In which they set forth that John Stewart and James Edgar, the delegates to Washington, were not elected by their branch, and they will formulate a petition of their own. A GBEAT MEETING PLANNED. What promises to be the greatest meeting of the textile workmen ever held In this olty will be held under the ausploes of the Kensington Tariff Reform Club, at t extile Hall, ou Thursday evening next. The Committee on Arrangements met last night, and John E. Mulbolland was selected to act as ohatrman of the meeting. V. A. Her wig will make the opening address, and several speakers of national prominence on tariff reform will also make speeoi.es. The originators of the meeting Intend to show conclusively that almost the entire body of textile workers. Irrespective of party, are In favor of free raw materials. The petitions that have been forwarded to Washington, signed by thousands, and purporting to show that the people desire the tariff left as It Is, are also to be made subjects of especial attention. The workmen deolare that the signatures were obtained In many cases when the men did not rsally know wba the petition contained and were given little ctisnoe to fin i ont. In addition, toey claim that a args majority of ,he names are those of women and children. In tlu case of emale- ooly the Initials of the mst names were signed, so that slgnatuiss appear to be those of men.

A Peep Behind the Scene«. The tariff pot is boiling merrily, but no one as yet can see exactly wnat is in it. A number of industries in cotton, wool and linen have had, or are shortly to have, hearings by the Ways and Means Committee,but, so far as we can gather, no one of them has Deen able to learn what effect these representations are having, or, indeed, what principle is to govern the formation of the tariff of ’94. Deductive reasoning from precedent and from known conditions alone affords a basis for any conclusion on this point. In conversation this week with a gentleman who has been more or less identified with tariff making in this country for many years, and who enjoys the personal friendship of Secretary Carlisle and Chairman Wilson, the editor of the Dry Goods Economist was given the positive opinion that the tariff finally passed would not be a “revenue only” tariff, but would be a modified protective measure, and that specific duties, the adoption of which, so far as practicable, has always been urged by the Dry Goods Economist, not because of their exact justice, but because of the ease and certainty of their application, would not be favored to any considerable extent by the Ways and Means Committee. According to this gentleman’s prognpsis, we may look for moderate ad valorem duties, laid with reference to the revenue which they would produce, but also with reference to incidental protection of established industries. That all textile schedules will be based upon free raw material, this information seemed to consider a matter of course. —Dry Goods Economist.

Give the People a Chance. Let the Committee on Ways and Means, if it is to have “hearings,” widen the scope of investigation which has usually characterized “hearings” by that body. The selfish interest of protected manufacturers will prompt them to solicit audience. They will expend time and money to secure it. There are other men in the country whose opinions are of more value. They may not offer their testimony, or make a gratuitous tender of their advice to the committee, but it should ndt be impossible for the committee to give them at least equal opportunity with those who have selfish interests to serve. If this be done it will be better for the committee, and it will be better for the country. When this is

said, it is not meant that only suoh tariff reformers as favor reductions in the lines they are interested in shall be called. Let the consumer be heard. Free raw material is well, but where is its advantage to the masses if it does not result in reducing the prices of manufactured products'? Give the people a chance.—-St. Louis Republic.

MeKinteylsm Must Go. The American people at the polls in 1890 and again in 1892 repudiated MoKinleyism find it must go. The American people have given protection an ample trial and they are tired of it. Its beneficiaries have grown steadily more and more aggressive and disregardfjjl of the rights of the public uqtil nothing remains but to sweep' from the' statute books the last vestige of class-legislation which finds its highest exemplication in the form of McKmleyism. The steadily increasing avarice of the tariff barons forms an interesting study. When the Constitution was adopted and the government settled down to business thereunder the first tariff was levied for revenue solely. It was necessary to indulge in indirect taxes, for the people were chary of publio burdens and customs duties furnished an ample field for operations. Shrewd, designing men soon saw that the adjustment of the various duties might be so made as to furnish a form of bounty to private interests and “ incidental protection,” followed wherever such protection would also increase the revenues. Revenue was still foremost. Then followed straight tariff for revenue with incidental protection. Then the incidental feature was knocked out. After various vicissitudes and nearly a century of time following a tariff for protection with incidental revenuo, came the McKinley tariff for protection solely without regard to revenue. And the revenue is suffering. Each month under the operation of McKlnleyism, sees a reduction in the customs receipts, while at the same time the expenses of the government undor Republican laws are eavier than ever Give us economy In national expenditures and a relief from the burden of McKinleylsm.—Des Moines Leader.

A Sugar Refiner's Tariff. A few days ago the American Sugar Refining Company, which enjoys a practical monopoly of sugar refining in this country, purchased, 10,000 tons of raw sugar, the value of which at the top price of 310 per pound would be about $784,000. The present wholesale price of refined sugar (granulated) is 5.18 c, which, according to the usual methods of calculation, loaves a profit of about 1,06 c per pound to refiners, or about $236,000 in all on this single transaction, covering not more than two weeks’ supply. Foreign sugar, corresponding in grade to our granulated, could be landod here under present conditions at a cost of about 5c per pound, including the duty of jc per pound; but importers fear the risk of a drop in home refined sugars in these markets that would inevftably be made if necessary to keep out foreign supplies. No better example of the effect of the present sugar tariff could be afforded. It is not, as it ought to be, a revenue tariff; for, in the last fiscal year it only produced about $160,000 for the Government Treasury. It is not a wage-earner’s tariff; for labor pays the bulk of the tax and plays but a very small share in the cost of refining. It is nothing but a refiner’s tariff, because at present it is enabling the trust to more than double its profits, and at the same time rendering its control of the market unassailable. else is benefited. The Ways and Means Committee at Washington cannot very well close its hearings on the tariff without taking up sugar schedules.— Journal of Commerce and Commercial Bulletin.

Reviving Industry.

The New York Tribune is so determined to have a tariff scare follow the monetary panic that it said a day or two ago that more manufactories are closing than opening. Its own news columns, if honestly oonducted, refute this new calamity howl. Yesterday’s morning and evening newspapers recorded the resumption of work In forty establishments, most of them large ones. The number of men reported as put to work was over 16,000, and the number nbt specified would undoubtedly raise the total to 20,000. Not a single shut-down was reported! This is but an example of the recovery that has been going on since the strong vote in the House repealing the silver purchase law. The improvement has received a new stimulus by the sure prospect of repeal in the Senate. It is seen in the money and the stock markets. It extends all over the country. Our news columns to-day tell a most encouraging story of reviving industry. Why should any newspaper seek to discredit or belittle this recovery? Does the Tribune’s indebtedness to the protected monopolies extend so far as to impel it to try and frighten away returning prosperity by a new and senseless tariff scare? Such a course strikes us as bad journalism and poor patriotism.—New York World.

McKinley and His Bill.

Governor McKinley has opened his campaign in Ohio and in a way entirely unworthy of a man presuming to the leadership of a great party. At his first meeting the chairman who introduced him put a question in mental arithmetic to the crowd by stating the price of wheat last year and the price noif, and answering the difference. Perhaps it is not fair to hold Governor McKinley responsible for this childish absurdity. He should have disavowed it, and he failed to do. How he succeeded in explaining to his audience why wheat is cheap under the operation of the McKinley tariff, which protects it against foreign competition, the dispatches do not tell us. Perhaps he did not go into that feature of the Cass. Perhaps he thought it easier to rely on the mental arithmetic of the chairman. It is evident that the apostle of protection proposes to make a campaign in which he can talk tariff in his own way without opposition. He will not debate the question. Before the last election it was said that the McKinley law was doing its own talking. It was. And it is yet.—St. Louis Republic.

Shut the Door on Them. If any question may be considered settled in tariff matters it is that raw wool is hereafter to be admitted free into this country. The mossbaoks, however, do not seem to understand this, but are again besirging Washington with their wearisome old nonsense. The next man who enters the Ways and Means Committee to advocate the continuance of the stupid wool tax should be shown the door with an immediateness and enthusiasm sufficient to “make his head swim.”—Dry Goods Economise Coleridge found solace for his troubles in the forgetfulness induced by opium, and when under its influence would sit for hours threading the dreamy mazes of his own mind. The new Simplon tunnel running from Isela, Italy, to Brieg. Switzerland, will be twelve and one-half miles long. Iceland is a contented country; it has only tsro lawyers.

WORN BY THE WOMEN

SOME OF THE VERY LATEST IDEAS IN DRESS. Mmj New Dmlkiu In Dress CalcnUM Only to Make Money for the Dressmaker*—Thoee Flary Little Coate that Beaemble Penwiper*. Basque* Comint Back. New York correspondence:

loping over the close skirts, and Miladi looks more like an idealized pen-wiper than ever. No matter what the fashion is, she manages to look like an idealized something, and one thing is as sweet as the other, so why fuss! Besides, the dressmakers must live. It seems too bad that the disused basque is on its way back. It is not a garment made on lines calculated to snow the figure to advantage, neither does it picturesquely conceal it. The basque is almost always made postilion back, or in some one of the masculine cuts which does not suit the feminine figure, emphasizing ungracefully as it floes the wider hips of women. The iifTerence between the round waist and the basque is that the latter shows some part of it below the waist line. A bodice, properly speaking, extends from the waist lino to the arms; it does not include sleeves and frequently does not include armholes. The prettiest basques are those which have merely

THE OVERSKIRTS BEGINNING.

a circular addition to a round waist, but those with continuous breadths extending below the waist line ate again in favor. The part ‘below the waist is made full. A wide-hipped woman must avoid this effect. It really does seem as if woman will not keep away from that trying horizontal across the hips. No beauty is added to the slender figure by cutting it thus in half, and a stout one is made unspeakable. For bow short a time were women content to wear round waists and confine circular trimming to the space from foot to knee on the skirt! Already we are putting bands or frills about the hips, or making skirts to our waists and accomplishing the usually fatal line in that way. When will fashion adopt for her motto, “Let well enough alone?” Alas! That is easily answered. Never. In the initial illustration is shown effectively the prettiest of these two methods of adornment. Here the skirt of lavender crepe is trimmed about the bottom with ruffles each four and onehalf inches wide. These stick out perkily and add nicely to the pretty flare the skirt already has. The ruffles are practically repeated at the shoulders, and the waist is further ornamented by a broad Empire lace girdle, and yoke of the same. The balloon sleeves have a long lace cuff, and a sash is worn with long ends hanging. Tne second and third illustrations are alike in one respect, which is that they show the early developments which point toward the return of the overskirt. This, surely ,is another unwished for visitation. But what else is signified by the elaborate trimmings on skirts at and just below the hips? Just such ornamentation as is seen in these two pictures, and by the double skirt effects now so eager seized upon. Verily, the motto quoted should be framed upon Fashion’s wall. In the dinner toilet of the second picture the material is white open-work muslin with half-inch strips of white and pink,

YET ANOTHER STARTING POINT.

the whole strewn with hand-embroid-ered dots. The border is pink with fine black lines. The skirt is in two parts, a gored upper half and a circular lower one. The team where both are joined is hidden by a band of lace underlined with pink satin, and a frill of lace. With the toilet is worn a fichu collar, pointed at the waist in front and back, and gathered in a standing collar: it is edged with lace insertion and a lace frill put on straight like that on the skirt. Through the thin muslin is seen the square decollete of the bodice. The foundation skirt of the handsome dress in the third picture is made

ESPITE the fact that skirts are ordered to be tight at the hips, it should make no difference, for we shall have fold and fullness just the same if we want them from the waist. Coat skirts are made very wide and full at the back, hanging in organ-pipe folds. There is something very ichio ana cute about these flary little coats scal-

of taffeta, and contains four breadths with extra gores at the bottom to give the neoessary three and a half yards of width. Over this skirt fall two skirts of grayish green silk muslin, cut in the Bame style as thy foundation skirt, and each finished with two tiny frills of silk and hemstitched edge, the upper one sewed on with a small head. Above this comes a plain band of lace, the pointed edge toward the top. The belt of folded silk in a contrasting shade is whaleboned, widens at the back as in front, and hooks invisibly at the side. The round yoke and standing oollar are of point d’esprit lace, lined with the green silk, and the yoke is finished with three narrow frills, similar to

WITH ZOUAVE EFFECT IN GUIPURE.

those on the skirt, and a ruffle of point lace. The sleeves have very full puffs trimmed with two rows of frills, in groups of three, and the long cuff is slightly gathered in the seam. Women stood admirably the rush upon them of bright green, yellow and imperial purple, and some murmured thankfully that at last they wore spared magenta. But now it is upon them. Conspicuous among the most swellest trousseaus are magenta gowns. Some genius has discovered that light-blue, used in combination with it, takes the curse off magenta, us it were, and really makes an artistic combination. Have you ever noticed the use the skillful modiste makes of black? You exelafcu at a daring combination accomplished, cry that no one but a genius could do it and that it defies oopying. Froquentlp this is because you fail to note the little thread of black that has been used, the narrow row of jetted insertion that oannects the yellow on one side with the utterly impossible green, for Instance, on the other. Sometimes it is a tiny row of frilled narrow velvet, again just a row of jet and nothing more, but the black is always there. That means that the real artist of these matters considers the lilies of the field, the line of the horizon, the effect s of sunset and so on. There sho finds black, sometimes gray and now and again white serving in striking combinations, and being a milliner or a dre*smake of a daring mind she '’goes and does it* in a bonnet or a vest. Then women wonder how she ever thought of it. Quite a new style of bodice is that shown in the next picture and one very prettily kuited for morning wear. It is sketched®ln black and yellow Pekin, the black stripes being strewn with oval yellow Bpots. The bodice drapery crosses in front in Empire style and is set off with guipure In zouave jacket form. This simulated zouave is very effective, especially when costly laces are employed, but inexpensive and pretty ones are always to be found by searching. The narrow pointed waistband makes a pretty finish and is particularly well adapted to the cross-over or surplice bodices now so much worn. The latter are not suited to women of

SWELL VISITORS.

full figure, but a half hour’s observation on the streets almost any day will disclose a dozen large women in surplice waists, and that meane twelve mistakes, for in each and every case width and rotundity are magnified unpleasantly. Two stylish callers are depicted in the last picture. The standing figure displays a costume of heavv black sicilienne trimmed with yellowish Moorish lace. Around the shoulders there is a cape-like frill of the silk with an insertion of lace, and falling on this are three pointed flaps of silk, two in front like revere and one at the back. The bodice is finished with a pointed yoke of lace and a wide girdle of folded silk is worn. The silk is taken on the straight for the sleeve puff, and the cuff below is trimmed with three lace bands. The skirt is three and a half yards wide and is lined with surah. It is ornamented at the bottom with two fourinch frills of silk, and these are repeated higher up in conformation with the prevalent use of trimming at or below the hips. At the right hand there is a toilette composed of strawberry and green striped silk, and trimmed with black lace. The wide skirt is trimmed at the hem with a bias fold of green velvet, over which falls a seventeen-inch flounce of black lace, finished with a narrower bias fold of the velvet. The bodice has a round yoke of strawberry silk covered with black lace and finished with bretelles of lace headed by a bias velvet band. Both of these dresses are very handsome models. Many bdlt effects have attachment to fall over the hips and usually these pieces are cut into “battlement” squares which are sometimes edged with a tiny frill. In other words, a little while ago belts were elaborated downwards, then they were turned upside down and worn reaching up under the arms, while now they go both ways. What next? Copyright, 1891. There are over 750,000 Odd Fellows in «the United States; 106,000 in Pennsylvania and 70,000 in Philadelphia. Nearly one-half the total number of suicides take place between the hours of 6 a. m. and noon.

RELIABLE RECIPES.

Potato Balad.—Pare off and dies fine some small, cold boiled potatoes; range in a salad bowl; be sprinkle with chopped chives, chervil and parsley; season with salt and pepper, oil and tarragon vinegar; mix carefully, and serrs very cold. Peach Pie.—Take juicy and mellow peaches; peel, stone and slice them is s deep pie-plate, lined with the under crust, sprinkle through them a sufficient quantity of sugar, equally distributed. Put in about a tablespoonful of water; dust a little flour over the top; cover with a rather thick orust, and bake nearly an hour. Roast Duckling with Apple Sauce.— Take two large ducks singe, draw pare off the neck, wings and legs; put a pinch of salt inside, close the lower aperture with the rump; truss nicely, put on the spit or in the roasting-pan and cook about forty minutes, sprinkling occasionally with the drippings; salt, untrusu and dish up the ducks; add a little rich broth to the drippings, strain over the ducks, and serve with an apple sauce in a sauce bow). For the apple sauco : Peel, cut ia quarters, remove the cores and slice a dozen large cooking apples; put in a buttered saucepan with a glass of water, cover and cook slowly for about twenty minutes; add four ounces of sugar, and press through a hair-sieve. Sauce prepared in this way ought to be white, stiff and sweet enough to be served with meat.—[Hotel Mail.

A Wife-Choosing Ceremony.

At tbe far end of Naples lies the Gttlr church of Santa Mari* Annunziata, which, once a year, on the “Day of Our Lady,” wakes up into a brief life and exoitemont. In a silent row before tha high altar kneel thirty girls, all in black garments, with folded hands and eyea fixed on the picture of the Madonna before them. These are orphans from the neighboring foundling asylum, and once a year all those who have reached the age of eighteen nre brought here to the church, and may be chosen in marriage by any honost man whose papers are in order, and whoso character is good. At the door leading to the sacristy leans a gray-headed priest, the head of the asylum. By and by a young man makee his way from the back of the church, and hands him a little packet of papen. These the priest roads carefully and, being evidently satisfied, he givee back the papers and leads the candidate toward* the row of girls. All their eyes are fixed more steadfastly than ever on tbe altar, nil their hands are clusped tighter together, their faces turn a shade paler, their hearts beat quicker as tbe young man walks slowly along the row. At last he stops. Ills choieu is made. He stretches out his baud with a little smile. The girl rises, carts a long took—half thanks, half entreaty— at the picture es the Madonna, puts her hand into that of the stranger, and together they disappear into the sacristy. The ice being thus broken, other suitors come forward. —[New York Mercury.

Comfort for the Unsuccessful.

If we are money-makers, it is to the exclusion of something else; if wo bawe gentleness and refinement, these qualities unfit us for becoming money-makers, 'tbe lute Daniel Dougherty met at Narragnnsutt Pier a very charming young mam one evening, and afterwards asked me if he was poor, or if he had inherited a fortune. “Why do you not ask me if hebae made one?” I rejoined. “Beoansc I know he hasn’t,” replied Mr. Dougherty, who, as everyone knows, was a very keen observer of human nature. “He ia poor, or, if be in not, bin money was inherited,” insisted Mr. Dougherty, and when I pressed him fur a reason for his assertion be said : “He in too refined, too cultured, too altogether charming ever to hare made by bm own. exertions a fortune, or even a competency, beyond a mere living," which* was a perfeot diagnosis of the, yqupg man’s position in life.— [Boston HomeJournal.

“Prince Rupert’s Drops."

The most wondrous wonder of the glees maker's art is the result of a philosophical experiment and is known toeeisstists as “Prince Rupert's Drop.” These glass drops known by a Prince’s same ass simply the drippings of molten pear or tadpole shaped,” their curious properties being the result of their befog suddenly glazed and their pores covered by coming in contact with water whoa at a white heat. One of these “drops'*' ean be removed from the water mod smartly hammered without pausing m fracture, but if the stnaiier end has hot the slightest atom clipped from ha surface the whole object instantly bursts with explosive violence and disappears aa fine dust. The theory of this phenomenon is that its particles, when in fusion, are in a stated repulsion; but,npon be-' ing dropped into tbe water, its snperficea are annealed and the atoms return into the power of each other’s attraction, the inner particles, atilt in a state of repulsion, being confined within tbeir outward covering.—[St. Louis Republic.

Cannibals of the Ocean.

Such fierce carnivorous fishes as exist in the depths of the ocesn are unknown at the surface. There is a “blade swallower,” which devours other finny creatures ten times as big as itself, literally climbing over its victim, fisat with one jaw and then a ith the other. Another species is nearly ail month, and, having no power of locomotion, it lien buried in the soft ooze at tbe bottom, ita bead alone protruding, ready to engulf any pley that may wander into fta cavernous jaws. There is a ferocious kind of shark, resembling a huge eek All of these monsters are black as ink. Some of them are perfectly blind, whileothers have enormous goggling eyes. No ray of sunlight ever pierces the dark, unfathomed caves in which they dwell. Each species is gobbled by the speeiaa next bigger, for there is no vegetable 'ife to feed on.—f Chicago Herald.

Physiological Oddities.

The muscles of a well developed human jaw can exert a force of 334. pounds according to recent experiments, The hlood in its natural state contains aa amount of pure water that is really astonishing to one who has not given the subject attention—nearly seven-eighths of its entire bulk. Kiel estimates the surface of the lungs at 150 square feet, or ten times that of the external body. There is enough of iron in the blood es forty-eight men to make a plowshare es twenty-feur pounds-weight.—[St. Loom Republican.