Democratic Sentinel, Volume 17, Number 37, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 29 September 1893 — Page 5

WHERE ARE THEY AT?

THERE’S MUCH WORRY IN THE REPUBLICAN CAMP. The People Bin Become Thoroughly Convinced that Republicans Have Foolish Ideas Favorable Time to Revise the Tariff—The Pension Blight. “Where Are They At?” For four years the Republicans have been trying to convince the people that they were fools. Twice the people have become convinced that the Republicans were fools. The result of a third experiment is scarcely doubtful. In 1890 the Republicans spent the two months after the passage of the McKinley bill and before the election, in telling the people that high prices was what were needed because “cheap coats made cheap men.” The people said “nonsense,” and voted accordingly. In 1892 the Republicans had found out to a certainty tnat protection cheapens goods and lowers prices, besides, of course, raising wages—which is always a, part of the regular business of protection. Fearing that the people might be skeptical so soon after 1890, the Republicans got Labor Commissioner Peck of New York to make some brand-new statistics for their especial use. They also accused the foreigner of paying our tariff taxes. Aided by Davenport they supposed they had a “lead-pipe cinch” on New York State. But they didn’t. Nor would New York have saved them. Now, in 1893, with a financial panic on hand due to Republican compromise legislation they have concluded they have just what is needed to save them in 1894. They will call it “the Democratic panic of 1893 due to the fear of free trade.”

But now, just as Republicans had come to the unanimous conclusion that this shall be their war cry for 1894, the panic begins to peter out, even while they are practicing up on their war cry, and substantial prosperity is again at hand. As the Democrats have not changed their position on the tariff question, the people have nothing else to credit the prosperity to except the practical certainty that the senate will pass the unconditional repeal bill. Consequently there is much worry in the Republican camp. They are wondering if they must return to the “British gold" and “bloody shirt” which did such effective work previous to 1890. They are undecided and are wondering “where they are at.” Some have already taken to the woods; others are burrowing holes in the ground.

Favorable Time for Tariff Revision. The principal remaining national question affecting business is tariff revision. A right attitude toward this whole subject on the part of manufacturers and all business classes, assumed at the outset of this discussion, would be a great preventive of friction in bringing trade under the new tariff conditions which 1891 will witness. In the first place it should be remembered that no question will remain settled until it is settled right. To aid in determining what a right settlement of this matter is, in the judgment of the American people, it must be kept in mind that the successful party in 1888 was elected upon a pledge of substantial reductions of tariff duties, and that these pledges were disregarded in the passage of the McKinley bill, the opposition party swept the country upon a platform of a revenue tariff. It is settled, then, that tariff revision must come, and that it must be what we have not seen for more than a generation, to wit, a revision downward. There is no use in resisting this tendency. The most that could be done in that direction would be to obtain some delay in the enactment of the new law. But such delay would be a mistake, for the reason that the country has rarely, if ever before, been in as good shape as it is now for the change that is contemplated. We have just received a check in the matter of national and individual extravagance and in a movement towards financial unsoundness. As a result of this sudden holding up, manufacturing and importing have been reduced substantially to their lowest terms. Prices of all commodities are so low that further declines are hardly to be looked for under any circumstances. Stocks in hand, whether of domestic or imported goods, are below the normal, and everything is snug and ship-shape, and well prepared for any necessary changes. So far from resisting the change in the tariff, therefore, all interested should join in hastening it as much as is consistent with careful and intelligent legislation. Day Goods Economist.

A Silly Outburst. Because some producers of perishable Bermuda vegetables testified before the Wayand Means Committee that they had sometimes sold their produce here less the duties, the protection organs break out with the silly old claim that “ the foreigner pays the duty, ” This is Gov. McKinley’s favorite bit of demagogic dishonestv when he is on the backwocds stump, but for a newspaper printed within sight of the Custom House to repeat it is a poor tribute to the intelligence of its readers. It is only necessary to repeat the inquiries which we addressed in vain to the Republican speakers and journals last year: Why, if the foreigner pays the duty, did your Fifty-first Congress stop at a billion dollars in appropriations? Why not spend a billion and a half and fructify the favored land with the tribute of effete despotism? If the foreigner pays the duty why not abolish the internal revenue taxes, which our own people iudisputably pay, and raise all our revenues from the helpless producers of the Old World? The duty on- pearl buttons is 146 per cent. Does the foreigner pay the duty—in other words, give us the buttons and 46 per cent, in addition in cash? The duty on some grades of cheap flannels is 107 per cent.; on cheap wool yarns 133 per cent.; on cheap blankets 104 per cent.; on cheap hats 105. Does the foreigner pay the value of these goods and a bonus besides for the privilege of giving them away here? Why do the monopoly-defenders repeat this rubbish? Do they not know that the tariff fight is over, for three years at least, and that McKinleyism is bound to go?—New York World. The Tariff Hearings Farce. The ways and means committee granted a few days’ hearings on the tariff, and the same old chestnut industries are on hand to tell the committee how necessary it is to continue protection, and what direful things would happen if protection should be abolished and their industries lost to the country. A man up in Connecticut—Mr. W. O. Witcomb—became convinced, three vears ago, that the increasing demand ior metallic bedsteads \yould warrant their manufacture here. He formed a company and began to manufacture them. He tells the committee that he pays his workmen three or four times as much as the workmen are paid abroad and asks that McKinley proteotion be continued—ndt lor his benefit.

of course, but for ths benefit of his j workmen and of the people who purchase metallic bedsteads. His case is very plain. We can continue his protection and allow our poor people to sleep on the floor; or wo can drop his protection and permit them to sleep on good and cheap beds. Next comes a New York man, a manufacturer of macaroni. He wants the duty of 2 cents per pound to remain on macaroni so that he can continue to pay his sixteen men four times, and his twenty-three girls five and fiveeighths times, as much as they would get in Italy. This all looks plausible and the committee doubtless appreciates the unselfish interest which he takes in his thirty-nine employes; though it may have some doubt as to the advieability of continuing to tax our poor people 40 per cent, on all of their macaroni for the benefit of these thirty-nine employes. Next!

The Pension Blight. “There is one evil about the pension business that I have often noticed, but for which there is no legal remedy,” remarked an old pension examiner. “That is that whole families often depend upon a small pension, received by some one in the family, for their entire support. Now pensions are not given to encourage idleness, and yet such seams to be the fact in many instances I have noticed myself, and in perhaps thousands of cases that I know nothing about. Widows receiving pensions struggle to support themselves and eons and daughters upon the meager income, when the latter ought to have employment. I have often seen a whole family go to draw the quarterly pension, showing the interest they take in the matter. I have often been amazed at the sight of boys and girls who are growing up in idleness, because their fathers are dead and their mothers are weak and indulgent and do not have the proper influence over them. You would be surprised to know how many families depend upon pensions,, and how many members of families only seek work when the pension is withdrawn “I know of a particular case where an old soldier, with several sons and daughters, some time ago got a pension, and also about $2,000 back pension money. The family regarded that amount as a small fortune, and began to live at an extravagant rate. Three, of the sons and one daughter lost their places on one pretense or another, and depended on their father for support. The two sons and the daughter at work married, and then the family was indeed in bad shape. The boys had grown to be la*y and trifling, and the daughter at home was not much better. When places were secured for them they would not hold on to them, and the consequence was a family of six persons lived on an income of not much over S2O a month. They lived in four small rooms, and from all accounts were continually quarreling and running in debt. When the boys were asked why they did not work more, they would remark that ‘the old man drew a pension and kept the family.’ This is only one instance of many. Now pensions are not given to encourage idleness, and there ought to be a remedy somewhere for such a condition of affairs. The legal remedy, if any, lies with the state, and yet it cannot interfere except in extreme cases.” —Cincinnati Times Star (Rep.) Pearl Button Men Active. The fact that the Democratic party means business on the tariff question is coming home as never before to high protectionists. The “National Association of Pearl Button Manufacturers” is giving some strong advice to pearl button manufacturers. It tells them to “Prepare your figures,” and adds: “We have already stated, and we repeat, that a reasonable request for protection, sufficient to cover the difference between the cost of labor here and in Europe, will doubtless be listened to by the’ present Congress, but no excessive duties, the necessity for which is founded on careless and extravagant management of any industry, are likely to have a place in the now tariff. Any efforts to obtain such protective duties will be energy misdirected and time wasted, and the pearl button industry is in no condition to pay for indulgences in such costly mistakes. ” We think they are right in regard to excessive duties, though they insult the Democrats by saying that a reasonable request for protection will be listened to, after that party has denounced protection as a fraua and robbery. If the Democrats fulfill their pledges, as is probable, the pearl button men may also waste time and misdirect their energies in the collection of figures relating to cost of production. The people don’t ask, and don't care, what it costs to produce goods here or abroad. They ask for low prices, that is all.

To Increase Our Trade. Senator Sherman says: “We ought to encourage in every possible way the exportation of our products, although I do not see precisely how it can be done. * Two or three ways of increasing our foreign trade ought to be obvious. It is an old saying that “those who want friends must show themselves friendly.” If we want more trade we must show a disposition to trade on fair terms. No nation in Europe will buy of us if it can get what it wants elsewhere on anything like as favorable terms. This disposition has been created by our hostile tariff laws, which were avowedly framed to keep out foreign products' It takes two to trade. Commerce between countries is based on mutual advantage in the exchange of commodities. How can we expect to “increase the exportation of our products, ” except as foreign nations must have food, while we raise high the barriers of our prohibitory tariffs, based on the idea that "commerce is war”—that trade must be like a jug handle, “all on one side?” One other way to increase our exports is to untax the raw materials of our manufacturers, placing them on equal terms with their foreign competitors as to the cost of production. Unshackle commerce and it will lake care of itself.—New York World.

McKinley’s Neglect. It is quite evident that McKinley has failed to take advantage of experience. He is still prating of the tax-paying foreigner, who ought to be sued, if the McKinley theory is correct, ior permitting our customs revenues to fall off. Can Cnllom Explain? Senator Cullom says the McKinley law is a prosperity producer, but neglects to state why it is not doing business at the present time. It is still on the statute books, and is sure to be there for nearly a year to come. A BUSINESS man of Colfax, Wash., proposes to stock that country with Chinese pheasants. A large poultry house has been built at his home and he has hatched out forty young birds on the place. Many more eggs are now in his incubator. His hens have laid over 300 eggs since last fall, but none of them has yet offered to sit. Diocletian, after his abdication, spent his leisure in gardening. “If you could see the cabbages I raise,” he said to a deputation, “you would not ask me to resume the crown.”

THE JOKERS’ BUDGET.

JESTS AND YARNS BY FUNNY MEN OF THE PRESS. The Reason—lts Distinction—A Good Foundation—Clreumscrlb ed—A Safer Way— A Surprise, Etc., Etc. A GOOD FOUNDATION. Foreign Waiter —Your American society has no old castles with haunted rooms. American Girl—N-o, we haven’t, I admit; but (brightening) we have plenty of scandals.—[New York Weekly. CIRCUMSC RIBBD. Bank Cashier—You can’t have a new dress until the times get better. His Wife—Are we so poor as that? Bank Cashier—Yes. Nobody has made a deposit for two weeks, and it took the last currency in the vault to pay for your hat.—[Detroit Tribune. ITS DISTINCTION. Fair Customer—Why do you ckarge so much more for this gown than for the other? Why, you see, this gown was smuggled, and we paid the ordinary duty on the other. Makes it much less common.— [Puck. THE REASON. Jess —What mikes that Sears girl act queerly? Bess—She was disappointed in love. Jess—Why, she has been married six months. Bess—That’s it. A SAFER WAY. “This World’s Fair carrier-pigeon contest has decided one thing.” “What is that?” “Why, that the birds ought not to be made to fly. Put ’em in a cage and ship ’em by express.”—[Chicago Record A SURPRISE. Strawber—Well, old man, I want to congratulate you. I understand that your engagement is announced. Singerly (modestly)—Yes, and I am the happiest man in the world. Strawber—Of course. And the girl; she is surpassingly beautiful, and has the loveliest disposition imaginable. She was just born for you, and is the sweetest, dearest thing in the world. Singerly—Why, great Scott, old fellow, I didn’t know that you had ever met her.—[Truth.

METROPOLITAN MANLINESS. She lived in the country, aud he from the town for the summer fell desperately in love with her. But her heart was in the keeping of a neighboring farmer’s son, and she could not return his metropolitan affeotion. She had told him so that night on her father’s porch, where the honeysuckles hung low in the moonlight and filled the air with their luxurious fragrance. “If you do not marry me,” he whispered hoarsely, “I will drown myself.” “Oh, don’t,” she pleaded, for her heart was tender, though another’s. “But I will, I tell you.; I will,” he almost shouted. “You mustn’t,” she begged, laying her soft, white hand on his arm, “there's no place wet enough except our well, and oh, Mr. Smith, what will we do for drinking water?” and there was that in her tone which convinced him that he was not amphibious.’’--[Detroit Free Press. UP TO DATE. “Yes, sir,” said the sailor, “I have seen a whale that oould swallow a boat. ” “Oh, that’s nothing,” said the dude, “I have seen a small man who could swallow a schooner.” —[Quips. • NOT A SMILE. “I saw a woman riding a bicycle today. She sat up straight as a string,” said Hawkins. “I never saw a string sit up,” said Mrs. Hawkins, “so I cunnot get any idea as to how that woman sat. ”—[Harper’s Bazar. so KIND op HIM. “Who is your physician, Mrs. Nervus?” “Dr. Killum.” “Do you like him?” “Oh, so much. He always lets me have the diseases that I prefer.”

NOT WILLING TO INTERFERE. Sightseer (to Columbian Guard) —Isn’t that a member of the Board of. Managers over there? The Guard—Can’t help it, sir. I haven’t seen her do anything, an’ she’s off my beat, anyway.—[Chicago Reooid. A WORD FOR HIMSELF. “The man I marry must be handsome, ” she said. “I’m afraid he will not be,” he answered. “Why not?” “Because very beautiful women usually marry plain men.”— [New York Press. PLENTY TO DO. He had just returned from a more or less fashionable resort., whefe he had left his wife and daughters. Meeting one of his friends on the street he exchanged greetings, and casually observed that he had that morning got back from S . “How is it up there?” asked the friend. “First rate,” was the reply. “Much to do there?” “Not for me; but my wife and daughters are kept pretty busy.” “What doing? Driving?” “Oh, no; dressing for meals.”—[Harper’s Magazine. ' JUST BROWN, THAT’S ALL. Lawyer (in cross examination)—So this woman was shot in her doorway? Smart witness—No, sir; she was shot in the arm. Lawyer (exoitedly)—You think you’re smart, don’t you? Witness (calmly)—No, sir; I’m Brown. —[Truth. ROUGHLY ESTIMATED. “Sawyer seems very proud of his violin,” said the man who likes to be disagreeable. “Yes, bow old is it?” “I don’t know. I should saya couple of thousand years at least judging by the tunes he plays on it.”—[Washington Star. A MATTER OF TASTE. “I say,”inquired the lady-bug; “why don’t you dress in the prevailing colors?” “Bab!” answered the potato-bug; lavender doesn’t go with my complexion, and these Paris greens simply make me sick.”—[Puck.

LIKED FILING SAWS. Billy Broadland—l wish pop wasn’t % farmer. I hate farm work. Willie Wayback—So do I—all except filing saws. “Why do you like that?” “ ’Cause it makes everybody else just as miserable as I am.”—[Good News. SUFFICIENT REASON. Mrs. Peterby (reading newspaper) — No wonder stocks are feverish. Mr. Peterby —How do you explain it ? Mrs. Peterby—They ought to be feverish when they absorb so much water. DISARMED. “Perry Graffer won’t be able to write any more jokes for a good while now.” “Why?” “He fell and broke his humerus.”— [lndianapolis News. a refutation. “Mr. Editor, I am told you called me a swindler in a recent issue of your paper!” “No, Bir..we only print the very latest news."—[Fliegende Blaetter. '» OBLIGING. “Help!help!” cried the bather. “Pm drowniug. Toss mo a line.” “I haven’t got a line,” shouted the man on shore, “but if you’ll keep up five minutes 111 run to the hotel anu get my swimmer's manual. It’ll tell you what to do in a case of this kind." But it was not necessary. A kindly wave came along and washed the bather ashore in safety.—[Harper’s Bazar. a thoughtful boy. Clumsy Horseman —Say, boy, what do you mean by running after me with that big pillow under your arm? Boy—Because, sir, this street has been paved duriug the past week. —[Fliegende Blaetter. ACCOUNTED FOR. “Is that the Dr. Breadpills who has never lost but two oases?” Gaffs—l guess it is; he’s been hunting for the last two years to find one, anyway.—[Chicago Inter-Ocean. TOO TRUTHFUL. “And this maid—is she truthful?’’ asked the lady of the reference. “Very. That is why I discharged her. She wouldn’t tell people I was out when I was in.” —[Harper’s Bazar. EVER PRESENT. “Simpson’s case of insomnia seems to be growing much worse.” ‘“Dear me, yes; he always dreams of it when he falls asleep.”—[Chicago InterOcean. CLEVER TOMMY. Geography Teacher —Tommy, how is the earth divided? Tommy—Er, not at all; ’cause everybody most wants it all.—[Chicago InterOcean.

A Ghastly Execution.

One of the most ghastly executions of the French Revolution was that of the Marquis de Marville. Although earning his livelihood by literary work, the marquis was denounced psan aristocrat, arrested and condemned to death. While standing on the scaffold awaiting the completion of the preliminary arrangements the marquis addressed a few words to the assemblage of people. He said they had been misled by deceitful intriguers, and was proceeding to say that before he died he wished to open their eyes to the truth when he was seized by the executioner and forced under the knife. With the utmost sang froid the marquis continued: “Educated as I was among a privileged class I voluntarily abandoned my friends to live among you, to earn my daily bread side by side with you, and I have always acted like a good patriot.” At this moment the knife fell. The guillotine was, however, in such constant requisition that it was frequently out of order. Upon this occasion the knife fell but did not sever the vertebras, although the flesh was horribly mangled. The executioner and his assistants raised the knife anew. As soon as they had done so the marquis, always lying face downward, continued without emotion: “As I was saying, fellow-citizens, when I was interrupted ” And again the knife fell, this time accomplishing its ghastly work. —[New York Recorder.

A Dwelling-house in India.

From “Phillips Brooks’s Letters from India,” in the Century, we quote this passage: “Fancy an enormous house rambling out into a series of immense rooms, all on one floor, piazzas twenty feet deep, immense chambers (in the middle of which stand the beds), doors and windows wide open, the grounds filled with palms, bananas, and all sorts of tropical trees, the song of birds, the chirp of insects everywhere, and a dazzling sun blazing down on the Indian Ocean in front. A dozen or more dusky Hindu servants, barefooted, dressed in white, with bright sashes around their waists, and bright turbans on their heads, are moving about everywhere, as still as oats and with no end of devotion to their little duties. One of them seems to,have nothing to do but to look after me; he has worked over my limited wardrobe till he knows every shirt and collar better than Ido myself. He is now brushing my hat for the twelfth time this morning. The life is luxurious. Quantities of delightful fruit, cool loungiDgplaccs with luxurious chairs, a sumptuous breakfast- (or “tiffin,” as we call it here) and dinner-table, and no end of kind attention. I am writing in my room on the day before Christmas, if it were a rather hot August morning at home.”

French in the Telephone.

The French language, it appears, is better adapted to the purpose of the telephone than the English. It is stated that the large number of sibilant or hiss syllables in English renders it a less easy and accurate means of communication. Some English words are especially difficult of transmission by telephone. The word “soldier” is cited as one of these. Proper names frequently occur in the midst of an otherwise perfectly audible and intelligent conversation which the ear cannot possibly catch. These must be spelled out, involving delay.—[Electricty.

A Brooklyn florist has four or nve chameleons in one of his windows. They are from South America, and seem to have suffered no change in their removal to a cooler climate. They lie upon the leaves of his palms and other tropical plants, and are occasionally found to alter their color a little, though generally it is only from one shade of green to another.

FANCIES OF FASHION.

GREAT VARIETY IN THE STYLES FOR THIS SEASON. Bands on Skirt. Grow Llkt the Peach In the Orchard—Stylish ■ Mourning Costumes—The “Swagger" Military CutMany New Effects Are Seen. Gotham Fashion Gossip. New York correspondent:

green Batin dnd silk. Each end of the spiral band of the skirt ends in a large rosette. The bodice has a narrow plastron of green silk which is finished on either side with bands of black guipure insertion. The rest of the front of the bodice is made of cream-colored silk, while the back and sleeves are of the gray stuff. The search for odd effects in skirt adornment has led some daring dressmakers to follow festoon lines about the skirts. These are either trimmed with lace actually festooned held up with bows of ribbons or knots of flowers, or else the ruffles are put on the skirts in wavy lines. Frequently there are only two festoons, the ruffle or puff curving down across the front and the back of the skirt, and being caught up at tho sides. The buncn of ribbon or knot of flowers becomes more and more a reminder of curtain drapery and horticultural collections. But the question just now is not is it pretty, is it graceful, but is it the fashionable thing? If it is, go ahead.

The socond and third pictures in this

THE GARB OF GRIEVING.

column present tastoful models of stylish mourning. The first dress is made of black cashmere trimmed with crape. The moderately wide skirt is lined with silk and garnished with two bands of crape, one four inches wide, the other two inches, with a two-inch space between them. The round bodice is draped loosely with cashmere and hooks in the center. It is trimmed with bretelles of unlined orape seven inches wide, and has a standing collar of crape. At the left in the third picture there is displayed a dress in second mourning. The material is a rough cashmere, and the skirt is trimmed with three rolls of crape around tho bottom. The bodice is plain behind, but has a pointed plastron of crape in front, finished by a roll of tho same on either side, with a socond roll covering the first dart, and continuing to the shoulders. The toilet has a pretty collarette in three parts, oach edged with crape. The puff of the sloove is divided by a crape band and the cuff is made entirely of it. The companion figure is attired in deepest mourning. The fabric employed is a shaggy black foule trimmed profusely with crape. The skirt has a slight train and is covered with crape about half-way up. It is lined with black lusterless silk. The round bodice is entirely covered with crape, back and front, and the circular cape is edged with an eight-inch band of it, which continues up the front. The small crape bonnet supports a long veil, which is embroidered along its edges with a small design in lusterloss black silk. If the fashions keep turning out such horrible examples of tho dreaded ruff.

TWO OTHER EXAMPLES.

women will escape the infliction altogether. It is bad enough to contemplate the pictures without risking getting into such things, A fashion to “take” must be introduced in an attractive and not exaggerated form. True it is that the fashion once settled it will be pushed to the niost hideous extremes and stuck to through them all till it dies of its own over-aevelop-ment, but in the beginning there is more sense shown. One of the offered models has a ruff effect of three upright and stiffened frill* that pass stiffly about the neck and down the front to meet at a point at the waist line. The awful part of this is that the frills maintain their stiffness and uprightness all the way, and at the waist even stand at right angles to everything else. The frills are furnished with Vandyke points, and a man may just as well go and lump on a picket fenoe as try to get his arms about a girl bo pro tack'd. The only pleasing effect obtained along the ruff one is the modification of it that

NEW way of “banding” skirts comes out every week now. This fashion commenced with a few parallel bands of ribbon or velvet, changed to permit a great many of them and now the strips of ribbon can make almost any pattern. This initial, for instance, shows one variatio n. This has a oostume of gray suiting, trim me d with

mounts a tiose frill on the top of the long popular choker collar. This requires a very long neck, but that is all right. If the fashion that is requires a long neck, we must all have them and that iB all there is to it. The Henry VIII. ruff is a double frill affair; the sort of thing many a play has accustomed women to. This ruff adjusts itself to any sort of neck. The frills are mounted on as narrow a band as need be to be comfortable. The frills stand out straight from tho neck, instead of upright against it. They staid out so far and the band on which they are mounted is loose enough, so that you really have lots of ruff even if you nave very little neck, and the effect is secured successfully and without disoomfort to you. Maybe Henry VIII. was not stylish, but his ruff suits the idea of style to-day, and now that you have learned how to get into the thing without entire sacrifice of your head, you can go in for it and bo happy. But avoid the other things. Two pretty street dresses are depicted In the fourth illustration. That

MORE CHEERFUL ATTIRE.

at the left is composed of dark-blue foulard and trimmed with white lace and apple-green surah. Tho skirt is trimmed in the novel way mentioned at tho description of the Initial, with three serpentino ruffles, enoh cdgod top and bottom with narrow white lace. The ronnd bodice has a pointed yoke of gatherod green silk finished with bands of guipure lace. The remaider is laid in tiny pleats and trimmed with vertical bands of lace insertion three inches .wide. Tho other gown is mado of pale-bluo and white striped organdie, trimmed with insertions of embroidered batisto. The skirt is lined with whito satin and garnishod on tho inside with a pinked satin frill. The blouse waist is plain in back and tho hooks in front aro hidden by a strip of insertion. Tho draped fronts have also two bands of tho same insertion on either t-ide. Theso fronts are loose and are joined in the shoulder seam. The belt is a plain band of batiste. The sleeves have a largo, full puff and a long cuff trimmed with two bands of insertion. Elaborate braiding is tho rule on handsome gowns, and it is so elaborate that it vies in richness of effect with embroidery. Silver and white are often used on dark dresses. Velvet revere and collars und sleoves and boloros are masses of applique work of all kinds. In tho now gown all this means expense. But it is likewise a suggestion for the doing over of old gowns, and though fresh velvet may make a better foundation for embroidery,'still the velvet so old that it can be used in no other way looks well when richly covered with handsome work. The coat of the final sketch is profusely embroidered in military fashion, In considering this garmont it should bo borne in mind that whilo

OF “SWAGGER” MILITARY CUT.

circular capes and wraps of all descriptions remain as popular as ever, nothing is more becoming to Blonder, youthful figures than the three-quarter jackets. This model Is fashioned of a light-weight tobacco-colored skirt set off with black braid. It is tight-fitting with ample skirts, which have a largo directolro pocket flap on each side, edged with braid and trimmed with three diagonal rows of the tame, finishing in tiny round rosettes. The front of the skirt has a similar rosette in cacti corner. A small pelerine cape is made independent of the jacket and fastened to it with hooks in front. It has a turned down collar, is edged with braid and garnished with two rosettes as shown. The pointed gauntlet cuffs arc trimmed in the same manner.

Fashion, being hounded for new effects, proclaims that she will admit the picturesque Cossack jacket this winter. This jacket hangs from the shoulders and isn’t any protection, but is charmingly pretty, however. They must be of heavy broadcloth. They fit closely and are fastened straight up the front t> the high choker. You may have them lined with the richest silk, satin or brocade, and spend all you want and have on braiding, cording and embroidery. One handsome model is worn with a perfectly plain gown of white broadcloth. The bodice of the gown is heavily braided with gold, and fastens straight up to the high collar with small gold buttons. The skirt is the usual cut and has one band of gold braid at the foot. The jacket slings from the left shoulder. It is a mass of rich gold embroidery, and is lined with heavy white satin, neck and sleeves being finished with sable. The possible objection to such a gown would be that it and the coat idea with its rakish hang is a little suggestive of comic opera. Yet, the ultra dame ventures upon the street clad in a hunter's green and Cossack jacket very early in the fall. Encouraged by the impression the green makes she will soon sally forth in a scarlet one. And then—but wait. Poor fashion is hard pushed these days. Time was when she kept her followers out of breath, now they tread upon her heels and cry, faster ! faster! till the poor jade pants for breath. Copyright, 1883.)

A review of the personnel of the English House of Lords does not show a preponderance of strength or intellectuality.

BILLINGSGATE.

A Description of the Most Famous Fish Market of London. Billingsgate fish market is the best abused institution in London, and yet its sturdy health is unimpaired. Hundreds of years have passed since this was first declared a free and open market. To-day 10,000,000 people are dependent on it for their fish supply, ana tho combined efforts of its enemies, from tho Itoyal Commission downward, do not seem to bo able to effect any radical change in its condition or conduct. Men of experience in tbefisb trade confidently declare that it can never be removed from its traditional home.

The average cost at Billingsgate of all exoept the rarest kind of fish is a fraction of over one penny a pound. It has gained in value ere it reaches the consumer 800 per cent. The process of this remarkable giowth is inexplicable, but the consumer has an obvious remedy. By tho grace of his deceased majesty King William 111. any person can visit Billingsgate and buy his own fish. Let us describe the process. The laggard sightseer who lets midday overtake him before he seeks the famous fish market will find it dirty, malodorous, foresaken to the scavengers, who sluice and swill its remotest corners in a vigorous way that bodes ill for trespassers. To see Billingsgate at ita best oue must be up betimes, while the streets are dim and silent.

At 5 o’olock the market opens, and from either side the steamships and the wagons bring thoir finny freight into Billingsgate, which at this moment presents a vivid pioture of industry. A thousand porters run to and fro, till the 200 rough stalls that fill the floor space begin to groan beneath the weight of turpot, brill,, soles, John Dory, mullet, plaice, haddock, cod, skate, roker, whiting, sturgeon, heke, dabs, thornback and gurnard, according to the season. The work of tho fish porters is extremely arduous, but well paid as such work goes. A porter earns as much as 10 shillings for his few hours’ toil. Fish porters are as a rule rough fellows and free drinkers. In round numbers 100,000 tons of fish pass through Billingsgate each year, about two-thirds of this aggregate arriving by land and oue-quarter by water. Tho chief source of tho fish supply is the North Sea, which specialists declare to be inexhaustible. The trado is carried on by boats or smnoks working in fleet* on the Dagger bank or off the German coast, und uiso by boats fishing singly nearer home, which return at short intervals to port, say to Grimsby or Yarmouth, whence their fish is conveyed by train to Billingsgate. Fish that arrives by land is usually consigned direct to commission agents. They in turn sell it by private contract to the “bommarecs” or middlemen, who break up the ninety pound packages into smaller lots to suit the needs of thoir customers, ranging from the Westend fishmonger to tho East-end coster. The socond channel of tho Billingsgate trade, the river, is different in its methods. The fleet that fish the North Sea are away from home for weekt and evon months tc gether. Fast steamships wait on them from time to time and bring their catch to London, the voyage out and homo taking about seven days. Two such steamships arrive in the Thames most mornings, the fish they bring being generally sold at auction by the appointed agents of the fishing companies. Round tho auctioneer and Ills clerk a thick ring of “bommarees 1 * presses. The rapid bidding is to a layman unintelligible, but apparently very clear to tho bommarees, who acquire all the fish up at auction in an incredibly short space of time, and then put it through the same process of retnilment as tne land borne fish. The rapidity by which sules by auction are effected may be gathered from the fact that u shipload of 3,000 trunks of fish is disposed of, generally by single trunks, in less than three hours, tho prioos recorded being the prices current of the wholo market. So fish comes to its ultimato consumer through five hands—those of the fisherman, the carrier, the salesman, the bommaree and the final retailer.—[Londo® Black and White.

Trained Machinists.

There arc plenty of men who will, by the impression curried through a pair of calipers and the fingers’ ends, determine,, within a very small percentage, the amount of pressure which shall be required to be exerted by a hydraulio pres# in order to force on to its shaft an engine crank or a locomotive driving wheel; a measurement in which a thousandth pßrt of tin inch variation in diameter causes much more variation in pressure than ii permissible. Indeed, on some kinds of work done in the machine shops, a thousandth of an Inch has now become the most oommonly employed unit of measurement; a unit which is divided and subdivided into at least ten parts in order to express the degree of refinement ai rived at. This, of course, far surpasses the frequently mentioned but supposedly superfluous hairsplitting operation, since uu ordinary hunmu hair is about two and a half thousandths of an inch in diameter. The paper upon which this page in printed is about three-thousandths of an inch thick, and one ten-thousandth part of an inch is therefore one-thirtieth the thickness of this sheet. Considerably smaller variations of size can be detected by the trained sense of touch, or rather by the variation in resistance of a pair of calipers passed over the work, and it ia even possible for the sense of magnitude and the sensitiveness of the finger ends in relation to it, to be so highly developed as to detect unaided, and by merely rolling a small steel ball between the thumb and finger, a variation from true sphericity amounting to 1-12,500 of an inch, or about one thirty-seventh part of the thickness of the paper of this page, Ambrose Webster, a machinist of Waltham, whose business is ti e making of machinery and tools for watch manufacture, having demonstrated his ability to do this.—[Scribner’s Magazine.

A Famous Tree Down.

A tree was blown down on Ellis Island during the storm Wednesday night and crashed into the house in which Dr. McDowell was sleeping. It was a famous one and was known as “Gibbet Tree,’' and was so called from the number of men that were hanged from its limbs. It was a willow and a very large oniv From the early part of the century Fe<i~ eral prisoners condemned to death were executed there. The execution that made the tree famous, or notorious, was that of Gibbs and Warmsiey, the two pirates who were hanged in chains there. Warmalcy was colored, and both were left to dangle there until their bonet bleached in the air. The tree was very old and was hollow in its trunk.—[Hew York Advertiser.