Democratic Sentinel, Volume 17, Number 31, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 18 August 1893 — Page 5

DUTY OF CONGRESS.

DEMOCRACY MUST REDEEM ITS PLEDGES. -Any I'mirlimHTath- Act Is Dangerous Tariff and Finance Are the Qiuatioar Before the People Digging Political Braves Deeper—Give Us Belief. Democratic Responsibility. Whatever is not Democratic is dangerous. Every Democratic voter has a share in the direction of the party; he bears his portion of the responsibility for what it does or leaves undone. Thus his personal interest and his pride of citizenship are enlisted. He has a regard for the consistent execution of laws he has helped to enact and for the redemption of platform pledges he has helped to make. Democracy is a body of highly trained political units. Mo professedly Democratic leader has been able to deceive his people. Other parties may obey leaders and applaud the act which belies the once applauded word. A real Democrat trusts the principles he has adopted and judges lor himself whether they are followed or deserted. The Republican party can promise to reduee the tariff, and then raise it. Such a shameless violation of repeated pledges as that party committed in 1883 could not be imitated by a Democratic congress without an atonement which would consign to obscurity every guilty member. Each individual Democrat has in his memory and heart the historic struggle of his party against protective tariffs. Therefore the McKinley law must be replaced with a tariff based upon the general welfare principle of revenue; lor the party is in power and pledges must be redeemed.

No act of the party which lately controlled the Government is more unDemocratic than the Sherman law. The party is unreservedly under pledge to repeal it, and to substitute a measure for the coinage of gold and silver without discriminating against either metal. Such are the words ol the national platform of 1892, passed after the Democrats in every State convention had made the demand in language plain and well considered. For the Democratic party, in or out of power, nothing is safe which is not Democratic. To temporize with the McKinley tariff or to hesitate in suspending the operation of the Sherman act would be unsafe for a Democratic Congress. In principle, in detail, and in effect these two laws are against the thoroughly ingrained opinions of the Democratic masses. They were bought by special interests, and'their design did not embrace consideration for the people. Both have disturbed trade and offended the natural laws of wealth. Both have brought losses upon the producers and consumers. Together they have contributed to create the uncertainty which has contracted the movement of capital and crushed hundreds of enterprises. The tariff and money questions are not the accidents of the summer. The future of the whole American people enters into their settlement. The Democratic masses know the pledges of the party, because they voted upon pledges. How can the Democratic Congressmen face their people next year and endure the comparison of pledge with performance if they are capable of no better finance than a blind stand against suspending the purchase of bullion, and of no better taxation than a miserable, ineffectual, intimidated rehash of McKinleyism? These are considerations of import. The Democratic party has a history and a destiny. Its history is the story of its constitutional doctrine. Its destiny is the restoration of the spirit of the Constitution. If a Democratic Congress and a Democratic President can do no better than to put their bended backs under the Sherman and McKinley laws there will be one chapter which the Democrats of the next century will pass over in silence if they can. Whatever is not democratic is dangerous.—St. Louis Republic.

The Curse of Cheapness. In 1890 the Republicans were telling ns that “cheap coats make cheap men,” that “cheap and nasty go together” and that “the cry for cheapness is un- American.” From such statements it would naturally be inferred that goods would be cheaper under some other system than protection. The Republicans did not like effect of this cry against cheapness upon the election in 1890, and in 1892 they were prepared to tell us that protection lowers prices. The “tariff pictures” of the New York Press and of the American Economist were devoted to this idea for many months. The Senate Report on Prices was fixed up so that it was claimed that it showed this result —but it didn't. Well, the result of the election in 1892 was no more satisfactory than in 1890, and the Republicans have concluded that they might as well throw off their mask and tell the truth again. Hence they are everywhere asserting that the country is about to be ruined by the low prices which free trade will inaugurate. They say that jt is because the country is afraid of itself on this point that we are now in the midst of a panic. Of course, by country they mean manufacturers. Hear what the New York Press of Aug. 2, now says:

To obtain cheapness for Commodities Is the first and last purpose of the British policy of -free trade which has been forced upon this country. To reach this end British agriculture has been deliberately sacrificed by the rulers of England. That commodities might be cheapened in the United States, many Americans went to the polls in November last and voted to overthrow that system of protection to home industry under which the workman earned vastly higher wages with which to purchase the slightly dearer coat. The result longed for by the Democratic voters and promised by Democratic journals and politicians lias been speedily secured. Before Mr. Cleveland had 'been a month in office the era of cheapness had begun. A nation which was at the top notch of prosperity one year ago has been plunged Into a condition of severe depression. Cheapness has come, bnt with it have come the compulsory idleness of thousands of men, the cessation of wage payments to great masses and consumers, the stagnation of trade and the substitution of apprehension, consternation and dismay for the buoyancy, cheerfulness and energetic movement of one year ago. The natlcn is having an object lesson from which it may leam by bitter experience the nature of the benefits that are offered by the cheapening of prices. Those benefits come solely to a few persons who are not producers of wealth. This statement should convince the most skeptical that cheapness is a curse and that our only salvatipn lies in a return to protection and high prices. To make certain that we will miss none of the possible benefits of protection and that we will not be cursed by cheap oranges, lemons, bananas and other tropical fruits, let us put duties on these articles so high that all such products will be grown on our own soil. If hot houses are necessary to do this so much the better. Think of the business booms, the valuable home markets and the extra wages for American workingmen, to come from the building of several thousand acres of hot-houses —brickyards, lumber-yards, glass factories, sash and door factories, carpenters, masons, glaziers and painters, would be more prosperous by such a law. This prosperity would spread and diffuse itself until it had extended tb the hunjblest farmer in the sod-house on the prairie—for such are the blessings of protection and high prices. If then wo could induce our inventors to re-

verse their processes and Invent ma* I chines to make goods dearer, we would be on the verge of a millennium. It just now occurs to us, however, that we are still living under laws made by the great McKinley himself —laws which were to guarantee high wages and prosperity to all. Before we decide to outdo McKinley will the Press kindly inform us what has upset the workings of this beneficent plan at least one year in advance of its probable abolition? Was its hold on our industries so weak after thirty years i-l continual grip that it could be shaken by a look from the unregenerate freetrade Democrats? If this be so, might it not be well to intrust our prosperity to something less timid or fickle? Possibly also the Sherman Silver Act may have some connection with our present troubles. We might investifate a little in this direction before eelaring that cheapness is an unmitigated curse.—Byron H. Holt.

Digging Political Grave* Deeper. Certain Republicans, not satisfied with the depth of their graves, are actively engaged in digging them deeper. The New York Press was among the first to agitate for deeper graves by renewing the assaults upon the intelligence of the American people which caused the upheavals of 1890 and 1892. It will be recalled that Republicans everywhere then asserted that tariffs are not taxes; that they lower prices; that the foreigner pays tariff taxes; that we can tax ourselves into prosperity with a protective tariff, and all such other nonsense. A few weeks ago the New York Press dug up the Republican corpse and began to kick it, and to shout in its ears that the jig was not yet up if it would only perambulate about the country telling the people that they were fools first and cowards last; that they were now scared at their own tariff declarations; that this fear is the cause of the present panic; that the Sherman silver law really has nothing to do with it: that it would exist without the Sherman law; and that blue ruin will stare us in the face after the law is repealed and until President Cleveland and the leaders of the Democratic party renounce all intention of disturbing the McKinley tariff act. The New York Tribune and other leading Republican papers had some doubts as to the advisability of attempting to “fool all of the ueople all of the time,” but as it was the last straw it reluctantly clutched at it, and the most of the other Republican papers and men—not excepting ex-President Harrison—are now soberly telling us that the-country is afraid of the Democrats and of free trade, and that this is the cause of the present financial stringency. Where will these same journals and men be when Congress has repealed the Sherman law —as it is almost certain to do —and the business of the country has returned to its usual prosperous condition? Will they have sufficient confidence in the credulity and stupidity of the American people to imagine that they can again be deceived by any false •cry? Are not these Republicans burning their bridges behind them when they bet their last dollar that this is a free trade panic? What if the panic .ceases the moment that the Sherman law is abolished, as Depew—the one rational Republican left—says it will? How much deeper will the country then find it necessary to bury the G. O. P. •corpse for hygienic reasons? And what a sorry condition this same corpse will be in when the day of judgment arrives, and it must tell of the misery that was caused on earth by its shameful abuse of trust and confidence!

Give Us Relief First. The preamble and resolutions reported by the Committee of the Silver Conference are precisely what might have been anticipated. In other words they state the views of the promoters of the convention, which have been expressed time and time again in the newspapers, in pamphlets, on the floor of Congress and on the stump. After stating as facts a large number of disputed propositions, especially the charge that the act of 1873 was a “secret demonetization” of silver, the resolutions insist that the Sherman aot, while an objectionable device of the enemies of silver, shall not be repealed except by a measure restoring the free >coinage of silver at the ratio of 16 to 1. It Lb ,asserted that the Government can keep silver at par with gold by its simple fiat. The experience of the country in endeavoring to do this by purchasing the equivalent of the entire product of American mines and issuing Treasury notes against it is not satisfactory to the advanced free-coinage men. Doubtless, however, there are many persons who believe in the employment of the two metals for money who are willing to grant the business interests of the country immediate relief and to consider hereafter and at leisure what may be done for a permanent remedy of its financial evils. --New York World.

Two Brands of .Reformers. •One brand of tariff reformers think that protection is bad .and that it should be abolished. They think, though, that as every change in the tariff unsettles business it is best not to shock trade by any great or sudden change of rates. They prefer to reform gently and to seale down protective duties at the rate of 2,3, or 5 per cent, a year, reaching a tariff for revenue basis in 1905 or 1910. Another brand agrees that protection is a curse and that anv change of duties disturbs industry. They think, however, the quicker the tariff can be reformed and protection abolished the quicker will be the recovery from the shock. If a tooth is bad. they prefer to have it extracted at one sitting rather than at a dozen sittings, in which case the agony might be prolonged for two or three weeks. They sav also that if protection is abolished piecemeal not only will business be panicky for many years but the protected manufacturers will fight each step with all their power, money, and influence. Short, sharp action, which shall remove the poisonous fang of protection from industry, is what is needed. Business will then soon recover from the shock and will thrive as never before. Will Benefit U». The American farmer is not to have the advantage of a European war, but there are evidences of a lively competition between Russia and Germany to see which can tax itself the more iri order to spite the other. Germany imports a good deal of grain from Russia, and in order to retaliate on Russia for advancing duties on German manufactured goods, Germany is preparing to exclude Russian breadstuns entirely and depend upon the United States. Already the United States has taken a large part of German trade from Russia. We can enjoy this tariff fight, knowing that, however hard it may be on the German and Russian consumer, it will inure to our benefit. A German method of protecting iron and steel from rust consists of coating electrolytically with peroxide of lead. A suitable coating can be applied in twenty minutes, and the temper of the steel article is not affected. The Fribourg, Switzerland, suspension bridge has a span of 870 feet. We want something we can't get and do »ot even know what it is.

SOMEWHAT STRANGE.

ACCIDENTS AND INCIDENTS OF EVERYDAY l/IKE. Queer Karts and Thrillin’' Adventures Which Show That Truth Is Stranger Than Fiction. Ox a small island in the extreme south of the iiluud empire of Japau, where a few thousand peasants and fishermen live in isolation, are two curious littie villages, and in these are two schoolhouaes with a romantic history, says the Illustrated News. They represent unselfish kindness, gratitude, international good will, a missionary spirit, and praotical sense in its mauitestation. In September, 1885, the American bark Cashmere was wrecked in a cyclone some two hundred miles off the Japanese coast. Seven sailors in the only ship's boat that was saved reached this island after intense suffering, while three sailors and the captain’s little son remained on the wreck. It drifted so near to the coast.that they escaped on a raft and reached a village near that inhabited by the seven sailors. All were nearly dead from exposure and famine, but the Japanese islanders treated them with such kindness that all recovered, and ou arriving at San Francisco were earnest in asKing that something be done to award their benefactors. Horace F. Cutter, of San Francisco, prepared a memorial which was extensively signed, and presented in Congress by Senator Jones, of Nevada. The government sent gold medals to the principal rescuers, and $3,000 was voted to the two villages—Anjio and Isaki. On the recommendation of Minister Swift the money was used to endow two schools, and photographs of the two buildings have recently been forwarded to Mr. Cutter. The island is Tanegu-Simn, thirty miles from the main island of Kin-Sin, and the native photographer had to travel seventy-five miles from Kagoshima to take the pictures. They are quite up to the standard of San Francisco art, and were paid for by the Japanese government. in each village the people have set up a monument by the schoolhouse “to commemorate the goodness of the people of the United States.”

Judge J. B. Bowman, who lives near Tallsborough, Ky., gave a correspondent an account of a wonderful auake fight that he recently witnessed. He was going through a strip of woodland on the way to his wheat field, when his attention was attracted by a peculiar noise near his pathway. Looking in the direction whence the sound proceeded he observed a blacksnake and a rattlesnake twined together in deadly combat. The blacksnake was wound about its.venomous enemy, endeavoring to squeeze the life out of him. The judge became an eager spectator of the novel combat. Ever and anou the rattlesnake would bite the blacksnake. Then a remarkable thing would occur. The blacksnake, as soon as bitten, would uncoil himself, dart for a small bush and bite off one of the leaves. He would moisten it in his mouth, press out the juice, apply it to the bitten place and then return to his enemy again. This was repeated several times until finally the blacksnake squeezed the life out of the rattler. Judge Bowman says he never kills blacksnakes. He says it is their mission and one they greatly enjoy, to destroy all the venomous serpents they can find. The Judge has a pet blacksnake that stays in his barn and keeps away all the rats and mice.

An accident so peculiar that a similar one rarely comes into the scope of a physican’s practice came to the attention of Doctor Wagoner, of Bridgeport, W. Va., a few days ago. Thomas Lowry, a miner, was working entirely alone in a coal miue owned by Clark Patterson, out from the National pike a short distance. A large ledge of soapstone fell on Mr. Lowry, breaking his thigh and bruising his body most painfully in many places. The stone falling on him put out his light, leaving him far in the mine in darkness. He could not reach the matches to relight his lamp, but after painful, ineffectual efforts the wounded man finally got hold of his drill, which lay at some distance, and pried the heavy stone from his broken limb. The coal cart was some distance away, but he succeeded in lifting his broken leg into it, and with his well limb guided the car to the mouth of the bank, where he called for help. Doctor Wagoner, who dressed the injuries, says he has seldom known of such an exhibition of nerve.

Martin £Tkton and Will Meadows tell the champion snake story of the seaton, says the Banning (Cal.) Herald. While in the fields they heard a commotion in the grain and soon saw two snakes writhing and twisting in mortal combat. On closer view it proved to be a rattlesnake and a red racer fighting for dear life. The racer had the rattler's neck in his mouth, and was snaking an heroic effort to swallow him. They struggled for some time, and at last the rattlesnake’s head began to disappear down.the throat of the racer. He twisted and .rattled furiously, but of no avail; he was “strictly iin it” with a vengeance. When about two thirds of the rattler had disappeared, the two men caught both snakes and tried to take them to town, but the racer became angry at being disturbed, and after several efforts at last disgorged his repast. In Windham .County, Connecticut, lives Hulibt Hazewell, who for twentyfive years lias made has home among the branches of an ancient chestnut tree on a farm owned by him. He has the reputation of being well off, and his residence in the treetop is the result of a bet made in 1868 that Horatio Seymour would be elected President. Ilazewell’s house rests in the forks of several large limbs about twenty feet from the ground, and is as well built as if it had been intended to stand on the ground. The eccentric occupant has made friends with the birds and squirrels of the neighborhood, and in summer they go in and out of the ticedwelling at will. The other night a shop on one of the boulevards iu Paris was broken iuto and a strong box was found in the morning wrenched open and with the contents .missing. At first it was thought that the burglar had left no trace, but on a careful examination of the floor a piece of chewed tobacco was discovered. This caused suspicion to rest on a former employe who was given to using tobacco in that particular way. He was found and convicted. In order to understand this incident Americans should recollect that the accomplishment of tobacco-chewing is not a general one in Europe. There is a man in North Turner, Me., who will probably never cease boasting of one bit of fishing luck at least. Not long ago he returned from a piscatorial excursion with nothing better to show for his day’s labor than two wet feet. In great disgust he leaned his fish pole up against the house beside the door, and disclaimed any knowledge of the fish market. The next morning his astonished eyes fell on a good fat hedgehog dangling from the hook. His “bait” of

****• day before can hardly he held ao , countable for the event. Apropos of the Christian names of Harvard College graduates, there is one name in the Harvard catalogue that would puzzle the average investigator of the subject were he not fully posted as to the facts in the case. It is a middle name aud it is simply “X,” which if known in the law as the symbol for “his mark.” In this instance, however, it stands for a $lO bill which was presented to the owner of the name on the day of his birth, and tho acknowledgment of the gift appears in the recipient’s name unto this day. A sheepherder on the John Day River, in Grant County, Ore., saw five coyotes chase a colt which was in a field with its mother near the aheop. The mother began to kick and strike at the coyotes, but she kicked or pushed over the colt, whereupon the coyotes seized and devoured it. A uemaukari.e rock formation is located on a high peatc of mountain about five miles from Aguas Calientas, in Arizona. The rook, which measures 300 feet high, is shaped like a barrel aud can be seen for miles distant. A remarkaui.e cliaraoter of Bcrnnrdston, Mass., is Arnold Scott, a blind letter carrier, 67 years old, whose eyesight was lost forty-six years ago. He has a long route which he traverses twice a day, and rarely makes a mistake in the delivery of letters. A St. Louis woman drew $1,700 from the bank, hid it in the stove, aud then forgot it. One thousand seven hundred dollars in cash makes quite a blaze and is warranted to kindle a fire even when the chimney’s drawing powers are not first-class. A woman may scream at a mouse, but one of the geutle sex has killed a rat weighing six pounds. Her name is Mrs. Jeff Odam, aud she lives on Galliuipper Island. The rat stole her chickens.

TERROR AND TENDERFOOT.

Cold Nervo Developed Under Stress of Circumstances. “As a general thing,” said an.old ’49er, “the tenderfoot wasn’t in it with the bad man of the mining camp, and it wasn’t natural to expect that he would be, but occasionally there did appear one who could more than hold his own. 1 recall a man named Caleb Finby who came to Dream Gulch in its earlier days when that region was full of bad men. He was a tall, spare young man, with a head full of brains, and he was quick and busi-ness-like in everything that he did, but still he was not a man that tho generality of men would have picked out as the possessor of nerve. “Mr. Finby set out one day to goto the neighboring camp of Devil’s Claw Canon. As he was proceeding along the road he suddenly came upon, or, rather, there suddenly came upon him, a man who asked him to throw up hia hands. It was Big Bill Belter, the terror of Devil’s Claw Canon. “*1 throw ’em up,’ said Mr. Finby, cheerfully, as he raised them, ‘because you ask me to, and I don’t want to seem impolite. But at the same time I must inform you that you are taking an entirely unnecessary precaution;, my gun isn’t loaded.’ “Mr. Belter was himself a man of fine gall, and his recognition of that qunlity in another awakened in him a certain degree of admiration. Quick to perceive the change in Mr. Belter’s manner, faint and undefined aa it was, Mr. Finby went on :

“ ' But I realize now, as I have not done before, the carelessness of going about in this way practically unarmed; and if you’ll permit me, I’ll load now as a guard against future contingencies.’ “ Mr. Finby’s hands came down as he uttered the concluding words, for he had seen the hand that had held the pistol levelled against him fall slowly, as the Terror listened with a sort of astonished amusement. “ Mr. Finby had in his hip pocket a pistol and in his waistcoast pocket a box of cartridges, which he had bought in deference to the advice of friends, but which he had never brought together into useful conjunction, partly because he was not .personally bloodthirsty, and partly because of overconfidence in the human raoe. But he proceeded now to load, with perfect calmness, but in his heart amazed at the utter lack of precaution now displayed by Mr. Bolter, who stood leaning against a tree and laughing, apparently quite overcome by the broad humor of the situation. Suddenly it was discovered that Mr. Finby’s gun was being held in such a position that Mr. Belter could,without inconvenience, look square into the muzzle of it, and Mr. Belter discovered also at the same moment in Mr. Fiaby’s eye a light whose meaning no sane man could by any possibility misunderstand. Mr. Belter was a man with a vast appreciation of the humorous, but not even his sense of humor could discover the faintest gleam of fun iu the situation as at present developed, and he suffered the tender-foot to proceed without further molestation.”—[New York Sun.

EXECUTED BY A MONK.

The Most Beautiful Volume In the Congressional Library. The most beautiful volume among the half million in the Congressional Library is said to be a Bible which was transcribed by a monk in the sixteenth century. It could not be matched today in the best printing office in the world. The parchment is in perfect preservation. Every one of its thousand pages is a study. The general lettering is in German text, each letter perfect, as is every one, in coal black ink, without a scratch or blot from lid to lid. . At the beginning of each chapter the first letter is very large, usually two or three inches long, and is brightly illuminated in red and blue ink. Within each of these capitals is drawn the figure of some saint, some incident of which the following chapter tells, is illustrated. There are two columns on a page, and nowhere is traceable the slightest irregularity of line, space or formation of the letters. Even under the magnifying glass they seem flawless. This precious volume is kept under a glass case, which is sometimes lifted to show that all the pages arc as perfect as the two which lie open. A legend relates that a young man who had sinned deeply, became a monk and resolved to do penance for his misdeeds. He determined to copy the Bible, that he might learn every letter of the divine commands which he bad violated. Every day for many years he patiently pursued his task. Each letter was wrought in reverence and love, and the patient soul found its only companionship in the saintly faces which were portrayed on these pages. When the last touch was given to the last letter the old man reverently kissed/ the page and folded the sheets together. Soon afterward he died.

SKILL IN THE SKIRT.

WHAT IS REQUIRED IN MAKING NEW STYLE GOWNS. A Pfrfwt Cunt time In All Other Keeper!* Can Be Spoiled l»y (he 111-Flttinjf or Non-Adaptation of the Aceoinpunylnir Skirt. Mode* for the Month. New York correspondence:

GREEK maidens are forever being held up to us as models of “flowing - lines’’ perfection, P but from even her ES to the hoop distended dame of j/ the Empress Eugenie’s .reign, down to the presi ent day of less in- » Hated draperies, HI the skirt of a cos--11 tume is the one liu point above all Mm others that calls Mi f° r consideration |!\|\ and skill. The \j\W\ bodice, sleeves, kyyi rovers, hretellos, HY\ epaulettes.and the \ Y> puffs, shirrs, JffiatpL, noney - comb and otherwise that go to their creation

may be perfection itself, and yet the whole effect may be spoiled by the ill lit or non-adaptation of the accompanying: Bkirt. The general outline being the same, there is yet something of a diversity in the style of skirts by which taste and choice may be exercised. You are allowed to have your skirt very wide at the bottom or considerably narrower than the widest and still lie well dressed. You may have the trimming br the skirt just as you please; three ruffles on the bottom’ or none; ruffles at the knees or none; ruffles just below the basque, or where the basque would be if you had one—or none; and you can use plain, gimp, or jet trimming, or a ruching of the goods or nothing, at your own sweet will. Some go back to the bell skirt, and trim it at the bottom, at the knees, and below the waist, and some adopt a plain wide skirt with no trimming, or just one

ALL RUN TO POINTS

row below the basque jmint This latitude gives variety to one’s wardrobe in that the skints of all one's dresses are not alike in every detail except the mere fabric. Then there are folds with a piping and folds without a piping; there are ruffles of lace of the goods like the gown, of the trimming silk, and ruffles trimmed with Iwiby r ibbon; there are two, three, four, or more ruffles—you'Cannot go amiss. The old adage of cutting your coat according to your cloth may be closely followed in your skirt trimming, and' yet no one suspect it, a priceless boon to one engaged in that exalted pastime of “making over” an ancient gown. But the latest style of skirt is not for the economical if made of new stuff, nor is it so becoming to the petite beauty as to the tall and stately one. It is made of three gathered circular flounces sewed on a foundation skirt with a narrow front gore and two wide back gores with bias edges joined in a center seam. The skirt has the regulation flaring effect at the bottom, and the top has slight gathers at the front and sides, and clooely drawn gathers at the back. It is a decidedly appropriate style tor summer fabrics, ana the flounces may be trimmed with Hamburg linen edging, or just a plain hem ■with machine stitching. The mode will also make up well with silk and woollen fabrics, and it will lit equally well with a round waißt, a blouse or a basque. The ingenious will see in it a chance to combine materials and also a style for using up two or more old skirts. So it can be turned to economical accounts after all, as almost any style can be In the hands of a real artist. Woollen goods are trimmed with braid passementerie, velvet, or jotted gimp. India silk, crepons and the like find favor trimmed with rows of baby ribbon. Skirts are still finished with the usoful velvet binding, which now comes in wider lengths, forming a fa-

BOTH UP WITH THE MODES.

cing of two or more inches. Three flounced skirts, of gray material, are prettily trimmed with frills of black Bourbon lace, headed with a row of hand-crccheted gimp. We cannot go amiss. If extravagant in taste and unlimited in purse, the style permits of the most lavish adornmen% If of an economical turn, from necessity or only fi om instinct, there is the widest opportunity to spend precious time and brains in inventing combinations, In ripping and pressing, and cutting and piecing to the heart's content, so that the skirt ufter all mdy

be made for us a “thing of beauty ana a joy forever." A rather novel effect is produced by the double skirt sketched in the initial. The bottom skirt has the circular bell shape and is trimmed with four Idas folds of silk. The upper skirt is raised on one side, edged with a ruffle finished with a fold of silk also taken on the cross. Both skirts are made of sand-colored beige, the upper one somewhat shorter than the lower. The blouse is made of plaid silk, taken bias, and hooks at the side. The wide bait sos the same silk. The jacket is quite short and is made separately of mode cloth, lined with plaid silk and trimmed with jet nasieinenterie. it has a raver collar laid in hollow pleats on the shoulders, which is alsotrimmed with jet. The material employed for the aecond toilet is very thin cream-colored woollen suiting dotted with green, and trimmed with pale green silk and vel-

A MODEL IN LINEN.

vet ribbon of a darker shade in different widths. The hell skirt is lined with satin and trimmed around the bottom with a deep gathered ruffle, forming points at the top and garnished with four rows of narrow velvet ribbon. The p.mnd waist (its snugly Hnd has a pointed piece in front and hack of gathered green surah trimmed at the neck with two bands of velvet ribbon and edged with w ider ribbon which form butterfly bows < n the shoulders. The brotellos of suiting are garnished with three rows of nam.w ribben. The sleeves are trimmed with four rows of ribbon at the wrist and have a deep, full puff. The belt is of wide velvet ribbon with two' long ends and several loops. The bodice has no collar and Is cut in a slight V in front and back. The skirt in the mother’s dress in the next picture is trimmed round the bottom with a niching of grenadine shirred four times, und the perpendicular stripes of luce or luce grenadine ure put about the top at regular intervals. The space between the stripes is übout two and a half inches, these In front being twenty-one inches long, while in back they measure twentytin ee Inches. All ure pointed and ure three amlahalf inches wide. The skirt itself is of black grenadine made over taffeta silk. The lining of the bodice is tight and the grenuaine is draped over it in front and t»ack, the grenadine huving insertions of the same luce that forms the stripes on the skirt. The toilet is completed by a deep lace collar edged with a loco frill. The bodice has a vest of folded black satin shirred once down the center. The full sleeves are of grenadine with long cuff's; the puff is shirred seven times at the elbow. The material used in the youthful model of the same illustration is sand-colored woollen suiting, trimmed with lace underlaid with pink silk and pink ribbons. The skirt has an insertion of silk covered with lace around the bottom and has a separate foundation skirt of pink satin. The

ALL IN WHITE.

lace insertion is about three inches wide. The bodies is tight fitting in back, but the front laps over; in front there is a pointed plastron of silk covered with lace, ana a doep lace collar completes the dainty costume. The fourth sketci\ shows a very effective gown of croam linen, with a conventional design in mauve, the bodice being in plain mauve, trimmed with cream guipure. The skirt is formed of five breadths, cut on the cross sO as to avoid any fullness at the sides, tho back only being pleated. The skirt will take seven yards of material and the bodice four yards and a half. The ribbon with which the very full sleeves are drawn in should be of moss-greon to match the hat, and the bow in front should bo of the same shade, or, if this is too trying a color, of dark pansy-pur-ple fancy ribbon. The hat is of mossgree fancy straw, trimmed with lace and cornflowers. It turns up a little at the back, and the trimming is high in the front.

Labt we come to a handsome summer dress madoof white woolen suiting trimmed with ruffles of tame. The circular bell skirt is lined with white satin and stiffened slightly. Around the bottom are three ruffles seven inches wide, pinked at the lower edge and gathered twice near the top to form a narrow puff with a small head. The round waist has a vest of tucked and shirred whito stuff, as shown. The elbow sleeves are garnished with a deep pinked trill. The Eton jacket has pointed revers.-and is edged with white woollen braid and lined with white satin. Tho standing collar is trimmed with braid and the wide belt is also garnished with the same. To reserve for the last word a bit of prophecy: Sleeves are to become still larger. Fall jackets are to take four and a half and flvo yards for the sleeves, and the dresses will not bo far behind. That means that skirts will remain full, for with narrow skirts and these enormous sleeves a woman without an umbrella or any other prop would look as If she must fall from sheer top-heaviness. Copyright, ltku

The A merican Physique.

A very remarkable exhibition waetbat lately held in a Heston studio, the result of Dr. Sargent’s labors in measuring the bodies of over 2,000 Harvard students. It consisted, beside his measurement charts, of two nude clay figures; the one representing the average or “composite” of more than 5.000 Harvard men at thcaga of twenty-one; the other the corresponding composite of the same number of girl students of divers colleges, measured at the same age. Reluctant gallantry gives place to veracity, and one admits that the young man is the finer figure of the two. Stnuding squarely, cleau limbed, strong-necked, he looks rather jike a runner than a rower, but there is nothing sordid, nothing warjwd, nothing to indicate the deterioration of a civilization of too many wheels,the stunting or the abnormal one-sided develop ment of the factory or of city life. When, we come to the woman we must—plis•oas nn pen. A prominent artist looked her over from a professional point of view and refused to accept the statue an the ultimate model. Of eourse, said her creator; for that you would in fairness select a figure on the 80 or ftO per cent, line, not this, which meets exactly 50por cent, of them all, and is half-way from the host to the worst; or, to put it more precisely, is only the greatest good of the greatest number, lie then naively explained her inferiority to the boy on a ground one hardly dare whisper—namely, that, women students in colleges came from a class not equnl socially or intellectually to that which universally send* its boys. Brutally to set forth the facta, the figure Ims more fragility without a corresponding gain in graoe; the lowor half is better than the upper; it is not that tight lacing has left evident trace* (the waist is over 24), but the inward curve of the back, the thinness of the body, lack strength and erectness of pose.—[Soribner's Magazine.

Wild Dogs of Asia.

The whole tribe of wild dogs which, in closely allied forms, are to be found in the wildest jungles aud woods of Asia, from the Himalaya to Ceylon and from China to the Taurus—unless the “golden, wolves” of the Roman Empire aro now extinct in the forests of Asia Minor—show an individual and corporate courge which entitles thorn to a high place among the most daring of wild creatures. The “red dogs,” to give them their moat characteristic name, are neither large in size nor do they assemble in large pucks. Those which have been from time to time measured and described, stein t© average three feet in 1 ligth from the nose to the root of the tail. The pack, seldom numbers more than nine or ten, yet there is sufficient evidence that they are willing aud able to destroy any creature that Inhabits the juugle, except tlm elephant and perhaps the rhinoceros, whose great size and leathery hid a make them almost invulnerable to such creatures ns dogs. The pack deliberately pursue and destroy black and Himalayan bears and the tigers, affording, perhaps, the only Instance in which one carnivorous species deliberately sets itself to hunt down and destroy another. From their rarity, the uninterrupted nature of the jungles which they haunt and their habit of hunting at night—which a probable suggestion makes the basis of the early legends of demon hunter and the “Hellequin" at the time when the “red dogs” still remained in Europe—obsorvatfoua of their habits are rare.—[London Speculator.

RELIABLE RECIPES.

Hai.au. —A delicious unhid may be /undo of the curly cucumbers. Peel and •lice very thin, sprinkle with salt and pounded ice and let stand ten minute*. Brain, put in a salad bowl, sprinkle with mixed onion and cayenne. Pour over a plain dressing and set on ice till very cold. Ham with Spinach.— Have a twelvepound ham ; pare, trim the bock, remove the hip bone, and steep in cold water over night; put in a boiler with cold water to cover, start slowly, and Jet simmer two hours; drain, pare off tho rind,, sprinkle on the fatty side with powdered sugar and bread crumbs, pot in a dish pau with a gill of sherry wine in a mod erately heated oven, and glaze slowly for an hour longer, sprinkling occasionally with the liquid in the pan; place oou dish, surround with plain or mashed spinach, add a paper ruffle to the bone, and serve with mudeira sauce in a sauce bowl. Sfkimo Duokmho, Appi.b Sauce.— Select two fat and good-sized spring duoks; singe, draw, pare off the gall,, season with salt and pepper, and put the liver inside again; truss nicely, and roast briskly for about forty minutes; dish up; add a little gravy to the drippings, strain over the ducks; add a handful of water cress, and serve with a bowl of apple sauce. Ari’i.K Saijoe. —Peel, cut in quarterly remove the cores, ond slice a dozen large cooking apples; put in u buttered saucepan with a glass of water, cover, and cook slowly for about twenty minutes; add four ounces of sugar, and press through a hair-sieve. Sauce prepared in this way ought to be white, stiff, and sweet enough to be served with meat.— [Chef Doliee, in Hotel Mnil.

Monuments for the Boundary.

There have recently been received the Mexican border two carloads oi Government freight consisting of the new line monuments and oilier necessaries for the work of definitely marking: the boundary line between the United States and Mexico. On the old monuments iron plates are to be affixed by means of boltp, on which is inscribed ia raised letters: “Repaired by the Boundary Commission, created by the Treaties of 1882-1886. The destruction or displacement of this monument is a misdemeanor punishable by the United States or Mexico.” The new monuments are of iron, six feet high from base to top of square, and six feet six inches high from base to apex. The shafts are tapering, being about twenty inches square at tho base and ten .inches at the top of square, the crown tapering to a point. On one side of the simft in raised letters is the following: “Boundary of the United States (under which, an American eagle appears), treaty of 1853, re-established by treaties 1881-1889. The destruction or displacement of this monument is a misdemeanor punishable by the United States or Mexico.” These latter monuments will be bolted on to a concrete base, two feet thick by three feet square and placed about two miles and four-tenths apart. The eastern (or El Pass) end monuments are placed two miles and six-tenths apart. The camp of the United States boundary commission is placed about half a mile south of the line.—[Dallas (Texas) News. Italy stands at the head of the wine producing countries of Europe.