Democratic Sentinel, Volume 17, Number 30, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 11 August 1893 — FANCIES OF FASHION. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

FANCIES OF FASHION.

GREAT VARIETY IN THE STYLES FOR THIS SEASON. Nothing Like a Silk Waist for the Dog Day* Handsome Promenade Toilet Wash Laee Is Ugly and Starched Lace Is an Abomination. Fashion as It Is Found. New York correspondence:

EAL L Y pretty 1 B wash petticoats are Jv here again. With ■ wash dresses the 11 old - fashioned * starched skirt will So be worn, to supply {]/ the needed stiffed ness, but we have ‘ learned something ji by experience with jg the pettiooats we have worn of late, and such starched skirts are not to be nKH trimmed with lace. We have found that wash lace is ugly, ■jaw and that lace stfffened by starch is 'y ftU an abomination, 'ill Fine Hamburg may be used or a lot of lV \\ tucks. The maVfW serial of the skirt is not too fine to

hold the starch. What makes the new petticoat not the old one is that it is shaped a little and that it has cute little ruffles on it about the bottom, often of colored stuff. Also that it is not necessarily made of white stuff itself. You may have a perfectly distracting petticoat made of striped blue and white cambric, with adoraDle ruffles of solid blue. Other wash skirts to be worn with fine muslins that accomplish the required flare by cut and fullness and quite without stiffness of any kind, are made of dainty dimities, every bit as good as the material of the dress, of faint colors, and evidently selected to go with the gown. For instance, a dress of blue spotted or sprayed muslin will be worn over a petticoat of solid blue dimity that is a wilderness of tiny blue ruffles. Just

why it does not look as if one had on two dresses I don’t know. It would have looked so a while ago. Skirts are made of turkey red, that standby washstuff, and are run with ruffles of white Ilumburg, or of the'red set with insertion of Hamburg. Such skirts are starched stiff and worn under outing cloth dresses, or with ginghams or duck gowns. Of the five accompanying illustrations the first is a handsome promenade toilet in figured foulard shot in prune and copper, with the design in pale yellow. The skirt is cut to give but little fullness at the top, and is lined with thin silk. The bodice comes over the skirt, and is hooked to the latter to prevent it from slipping. It fastens in the center beneath the plastron and has revere piped, as is the flaring collar, with pale yellow silk. The plastron hooks over and is trimmed with a box pleat down the center, adorned with gold buttons. The balloon sleeves are also piped with yellow at the wrist. With the costume q round hat is made, of cream-colored fancy straw, with a slightly tapering crown, entirely covered with tiny blossoms. The brim is covered with* lace, and a full bow of cream-colored faille ribbon, through which a fancy gold pin is thrust, is placed at the right side. On the inside of the brim is a small rosette of ribbon. This hat adds greatly to the handsome appearance of the gown, and it is evident to anyone that the one is especially intended for wear with the other. The toilet can well be taWin as a model for a street dress, being at once dressy, stylish and tastefuL Linen shirt-waists are fairly cool and comfortable, but there is nothing like a silk waist for the dog days. By waist I mean a garment cut exactly like a tennis shirt with a half-high cellar, a deep yoke, a handkerchief

pocket in front and fastening either with buttons and button holes of diminutive size or else with link-studs. The sleeves should be long and full. With this kind of shirt-waist one should wear a silk tie, matching it exactly. The waist is very pretty m white or dovegray silk, but it can be made in any light color, and light-blue looks particularly well. Serpentine, alias surplice, waists are extremely popular. They are made in a great variety of materials. In silk they are rather expensive, but one can get the same thing in sateen for a much less sum and one which is quite enough to pay for an article that may go out of style to-morrow. Blouse waists »f changeable silk are still fashionable, but they do not sell well without linings, and when a loose waist is lined it naturally loses its chief merit. Very dainty are the shirt waists of Japanese wash-silk in gray and white stripes, but after all nothing looks prettior

than plain, creamy India silk, whioh washes beautifully, becoming softer after each visit to the laundry. Two pretty models of the blouse waists, which are seen this summer in so many forms and materials, are shown in the next two pictures. The first of the prir is old rose silk or satin, trimmed with bands of the same embroidered with lavender and yellow shaded silks, in a design of pansies. The lower part of the mouse has no lining, but the top is lined with muslin or thin silk and closes in the center. The blouse closes on the left side and has no seams save those in the middle of the back and the sides. The fullness is laid in pleats at the waist in the front and back. The sleeves are balloon shaped, and the wide belt of silk fastens at the side. The embroidered bands may continue around the back or be left only on the front, as desired. The second example is made of pink

satin merveilleux and has a plastron of. moss-green satin, beneath which it hooks. The back has only the seam in the oenter and the left side laps over a trifle. The satin is draped over a tightfitting silk lining. The rever collar.is quite full, round in the back, but ending with a point on the overlapping side in the front. It is trimmed at the edge with a narrow moss-green satin! ribbon. The standing collar is covered with a full ruching of green silk or ohiffon, and the sleeves are trimmed with ruching as the collar. The folded belt of pink satin is boned in the front and the back to keep the folds in place. Of the final couple of pictures the first is a natty veranda dress, and the other an elaborate and elegant house dress. The material used in the case of the former is a dark cloth, and it is made perfectly plain with no adorn-i ment whatever. The skirt is cut a trifle wider than the ordinary bell skirt and is edged with a heavy cord around the bottom. The front and sides must fit snugly, and the back is laid in two box pleats. The round waist has as few seams as possible and goes inside the skirt; it buttons in the front, and is finished with a very narrow belt, either of cloth or of leather. The balloon sleeves are sewed into the armhole with a large box pleat in the center and a series of smaller ones at either side, instead of being gathered, to relieve what would otherwise be too great plainness. A cravat bow of black lace is worn, and a long black scarf is laid over the shoulders and is knotted at the side, with the ends reaching almost to the bottom of the skirt.

Few women can afford such a house toilet as that of the last picture, for it is made of expensive materials. But it is sometimes both interesting and

instructive to consider unattainable elegance, and there’s no need of sinking one's soul to the level of covetousness. It is composed of cream-colored figured silk and trimmed with green 1 and yellow changeable velvet, silk rib bons, and a long white scarf. The wide skirt has a train and is finished around the bottom with two ruffles edged with velvet. The round waist is cut V shaped in the front and is perfectly plain. The scarf is arranged in a few pleats in the back and turned away in the front. The ends of the fichu are drawn through the belt and hang down on the skirt. The short puffed sleeves are finished with a lace frill and the belt is made of wide yellow silk ribbon drawn through a buckle In the front and tying at the side with a bow and long ends. It is so pretty that it seems a pity it is so difficult to do inexpensively. If you have some old lace for the scarf, the rest could be managed well enough. Veils are now made full in the front at the upper edge, then they just catch the chin and are drawn up over the cheeks, catching the wide brim of the hat on either side right above the ears, or even in front of them. Such an arrangement is piquant. It looks odd, anyhow, and, when you come to think of it, it is the only way to manage a veil with the enormous hats worn, especially those whose brims are liable to start straight up unexpectedly, precipice-like. The veil is absolutely necessary to keep hair and skin looking well. A veil should be worn even with the little close hats, the brims of which are turned straight back and punched in scallops all around, and which offer no edge to keep the veil from crossing the face so close that the eyelashes are caught. At least select a very fine one. When it comes to getting a serviceable wide veil, you will do well to take a look at the nets at the lace counters before you try the veils themselves. You are more than likely to get a durable net and one of fine width, and, incidentally, it will cost you about half as much. Just plain black silk net, like wash blonde, only black, and silk makes a most becoming veil. Bo does point d’esprit, too. W T ash blonde in white makes a veil and scarf combined and wears well, and some very fine crepes and chiffons shown for dress goods make most becoming veils. Copyright, isn.

EMBROIDERED WITH PANSIES.

BLOUSE WITH REVER COLLAR.

AMID VERANDA BREEZES

AN ELEGANT HOUSE DRESS