Democratic Sentinel, Volume 17, Number 28, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 4 August 1893 — WORN BY THE WOMEN [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

WORN BY THE WOMEN

SOME OF THE VERY LATEST IDEAS IN DRESS. A Black China Bilk down I* On* of tlie Moot Narvlooablv A Tasteful Buinmor Walking llnu-llmpli Attlro for the Mouse. Etc. Botham Fashion Uoaslp. (i'sw York oorroipondtnos:

✓"iAVE you ever considered that of IjJ all the gowns ever JLI made th o ono WJLI, from which you can got the most SLJjA wear for the longest while and for V the greatest numr ber of occasions s is a little black China silk. The silk must be of <l™ the very best TO quality. Such 1 M comes as wide as UiM wool, is of close texture, smooth, 1 M glossy surface, and washes like mUwM linen. The gown lilt lima must be made all |! Li'cßm * n cne ’ B * cirt bodice being to a good KL. wido belt. The

f/idth of the belt extends above the waist line, so that the general effect of the gown is short-waisted. Thebodice opens in front, so does the skirt, and what a comfort it is not to have to bother about a placket hole. Make the belt extra big around, and double so as to accommodate a drawing ribbon. The bodice is full and has a sort of surplice front; that is, the collar crosses over and fastens at the side, and carries some of the fullness of the bodice with it, making it double-breasted at the top, though not at the bolt line. In this way the bodice fast3ns secure-

ly in a jiffy. The collar is a choker, snug and trim-looking. The sleeves are literally enormous. Just as many yards as you can snare and make stay in the armhole should be used to form great unstiffened bishop sleeves that go into a smooth tight cuff coming to the elbow. Of course, this fullness must be arranged with some plan, letting most of it come at the outside of the arm. The skirt clears the ground. There is no danger, you Bee, of its drooping in the back, of its showing the belt, or of doing any of those aggravating things that the usual round skirt does. It may have a deep ruffle of lace about the bottom, if you think it is not already as pretty as it can be, or, what is more practical, a deep ruffle of the silk, not too full, because the skirt is shirred. Such a gown seems to do for all times and places. It is cool and pretty. It may go on over anything. It may be worn with a hat outdoors. It will go into the tub, and come out almost as good as new. It will last forover. A stiff skirt undor it makes it flare and even if it does not flare it looks all right. The cost Is not great, its life is long, and as it is good as new each year it is very economical. Coming to the first mcdel set before you by the artist, that of the initial picture, there is seen a tasteful summer walking dross. It is made of pale blue and white striped crepon, and trimmed with white lace and pale blue satin ribbon. The skirt escapes the ground and is about three and a-half yards wide. . It is trimmed with three rows of crepon niching, is laid in a few

pleats in front and gathered to the skirt band in the back. The waist fastens in the center. The front and back are taken rather loose, and in the front is a yoke of alternating rows of one and a half inch satin ribbon and lace insertion. This is finished with a frill of white lace nine inches wide, gathered to the yoke in the front and the ends then carried around under the arms up to the shoulder seams, making a kind of reversed Figaro jacket. The belt of satin ribbon ties with long bows and ends at the left side. The sleeve has a short puff and is finished at the wrist with a lace frill headed by a crepon ruching. The standing collar is covered with lace. The next sketch was taken as a hostess parted with her guest, and shows the former in a house gown of cheerful coloring and the latter garbed in serviceable and stylish traveling attire. The material used for the indoor dress is pink woolen crepe trimmed with let-tuce-green satin ribbon and lace. The gown is open all the wav down in front and is finished around tne bottom with a pink ruffle about six inches wide. The waist has silk lining. There is a square yoke of embroidered tulle with insertion of very floe laoe laid over

green ribbon. At tho waist it is shirred four times in groups of two rows each and ornamented with four ribbon bows. The cuffs of the sleeves are also covered with embroidered tulle and garnished with a laco frill and bows; at tho top is a large puff. The standing collar is green ribbon covered with lace. The gown hooks from top to bottom In the front. The second costume follows ourrent modes closely, and is moro elaborate than usual traveling dross. Its fabric is made colored rough diagonal, trimmed with cloth in the same shade. Tho skirt is composed of three parts, eaoh one finished with a band of cloth, over an alpaca lining. With the suit is worn a sleeveloss veil made of red and striped woolen

pique and high at the neck. The front may be buttoned on as shown, In case a variety is wished, and the lemalndor is made of satin, euoh side having two pockets and hooking In the center beneath the plastron or vest of pique. The top of the satin lining near the neck is covered with brown silk and a brown silk tie is worn. The toilet is completed by a short jacket having revers and collar faced with oloth. The jacket is cut off at tho waist in the front and tho back and the points adorned with two buttons. The balloon sleeves are ornamented with two strips of oloth. At mention of gardening one's thoughts would moro naturally turn to some old dress and coarse protecting apron than to tho stylish gown of the third picture, but it, noverthele-s, is Intended for wear amid tho flower bods, In company with the trowel and watering pot. Its material Is sand-colored woolen suiting, trimmed with white or palest pink faille. Tho skirt is very wide around the bottom, but snug over tho hips. It Is gutliored In tho back, lined with satin, and lias a thirty-inch strip of muslin as stiffening, but no trimming whatever. The bodice has loose fronts faced with silk and a vest of falllo fastening beneath tho boxpleat adorned with gold buttons. Tho back 1h plain with pointed plastron of tho faille. In front is a bolt fastening with a bow of ribbon. Tho bodice is trimmed with full foHtoonod brotellos, nurrow in front and back, but wide over tho shoulders. Here is a coming now trick in veils which is worth mentioning, and which you can adopt safely If It seems attractive. Make your veil carefully to fit the hat. Both ends are linlsnod with rosettes which fasten at tho back of the hat. Prom the rosette to the right a long scarf of tho veil is attached. This either floats in tho breeze, winds about your throat, falls over your shoulder, or you can hold it in your hand. Use tho width of tho goods

for the width of the veil. The selvage of such goods is usually delicate and pretty. You can run very narrow real lace on the odgo or you may finish it with the tiniest little Dows of very narrow ribbon. The upper edge of the veil may be turned in a dainty handmade hem, and ribbon inserted, by which the fullness is arranged. The ribbon comes out in two ends at the middle point of the upper edge, there to tie and make the veil as tight as you like; or it can only pretend to tie there, and the little bow can be just a makebelieve. All this takes time and trouble, but the effoct is charming, and it caimot be bought as yet. The one I saw had not oven been worn, and it was an exclusive importation. Now is a chance for you to do among the very first to obtain this pretty device. The fourth picture presents a pretty and simple house dress in a moss green crepe strewn with a figuring of tiny black flowers. It is made princess, perfectly plain and is lined with satin. All the seams in the skirt are biased and the dress hooks in the back. Its sole trimming consists of a draped fichu collar arranged in folds and caught up here and there. The right end is short but the left hangs down for some distance, being held in place at the waist with fancy pins, The collar is arranged in pleat 3 fastened with jet straps having a long jet fringe. The material employed in the calling dress of the last illustration is black and red changeable silk, set off with black velvet and black lace. The bell skirt is lined with silk or satin and is stiffened throughout with muslin; around the bottom there is a very full ruffle of silk edged with velvet and attached to the skirt with two rows of gathers. At the back the fullness is arranged in two deep pleats. The round waist goes inside the skirt and has no seams save those under the arms, although the fronts may have darts if necessary. Each front must be cut considerably wider than the lining to allow for the yoke-like shirring at the neck; the stuff is then drawn to the waist line and laid in tiny pleats. The back is treated in the same way, save that there is no shirring. The sleeves are finished at the wrist with a band of velvet, and the belt and standing collar are of the same velvet. The waist is garnished with a full jabot of black lace. Copyright, 1893. The soundness of a beam or log can be accurately determined by the sense of hearing alone. The ear should be applied to one end of the beam, while the other is struck with a hammer. If the sound is clear, distinct, and sharp, the beam is sound in every part; if dull or muffled, decay has set in somewhere In the Interior.

FOR HOME AND JOURNEYING.

AMID THE BLOSSOMS.

SIMPLE HOUSE DRESS.

A WELL-DRESSED CALLER.