Democratic Sentinel, Volume 17, Number 13, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 14 April 1893 — MODES FOR THE MONTH. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

MODES FOR THE MONTH.

SOME LATE NEW YORK FASHION IDEAS. If Fashion Says to Wear a Certain Style Garment You Are Justified In Doing So. Even Though It Does Look HideousEven the Dreadful Whisper Chignon Is Heard. Gossip from Gotham. New York correspondence:

the ” new Empire cloaks, Wl, it should be said Ki that they look a good deal like bath and gloriwrappers. But 7/?V\ 1 \ the faß h‘ on SAyS f/A'\ » Empire cloak you ’//\\ are all right in H u, / wearing one, only /\ r you will feel when / y you put it on a oerA | tain need to l%J>el yourself that the M / observer may not Ijj LA mistake your inJf/ O' tention. One deUl sign is set on a / IrT yoke, at, d It hangs it loose all around, J>\ except right in [J \ front and in the 1' l back.whereapanel \ of velvet is intro- \ duced. This hangs \ unfitted, but qulto , 11 flat and without I|\ folds. Sleeves are ' M very wide and very •*1 ‘lm'jt loose * The ftenerrAal effect is so cora—fortable and loose-

looking that one wonders if there is a dress beneath after all. A loose Empire mantle of another sort is portrayed at the left In the first Illustration. It Is made of black diagonal and black bengalino, and is lined with black silk, showing a design in tiny red flowerets. At the bottom the mantle is wide and flaring, but at the top it is pleated to a square yoke. The yoke has a linen lining to stiffen it. The leg-o’-mutton sloeve Is made of bengaline and is very full at the top. There is a standing collar, which is partially Mdden by‘a niching of black ribbon that continues down the front in two long ends. The yoke is edged with black silk cord passementerie about three inches wide. The garment can be made tight-fitting in the back if desired by a ribbon sewed to the fabric at the waist line and tied with a bow in front. The costume of the companion figure has a wide, flaring sailor collar, which

lends a dashing, youthful air. Heavy dark-blue cheviot and dark-blue braid in widths from one to two inches, are respectively the material and trimming. The skirt is in the usual bell form. At the waist the cheviot is draped loosely over the tight lining to form a blouse. The front shows a plastron, made separately and lined with satin; it is sewed to the collar and to the front underneath the sailor collar, and there books over. The sleeve is the old-fashioned full blouse sleeve with a narrow cuff. A large, flaring straw hat, trimmed with ribbon bows and wings, Is worn with it. The pointed crown survives curiously In this season’s hats. It can be seen carried out in a pagoda effect of jeweled wires that rise gloriously in curved and glittering lines over where the crown of the hat is supposed to be. Through the spaces the hair shows. The brim of such a hat may be either solid, or wired lace, or mere jeweled wire. Most often the brim is solid, and when of green felt, edged with a rampant row of grasses, the pagoda rising from the center, it has the general effect of a Chinese landscape, architecture, vegetation, and all. Straight brims are seldom seen in big hats. The brim is very wide, but it is flared straight up, and this often right in front The chip used is so fine and soft that on either siae of the flare the brim droops gracefully, and the upright effect does not give awkwardness. A rich rose seems to hold the brim up, and is half crushed under the edge of

the hat Quite as if It -were worn in the hair, and not a part of the hat Two very stylish spring costumes are the subjects of the next sketch. One is of tan-colored woolen suiting, (rimmed with dark-brown velvet and satin ribbon in different widths, and has the skirt of the fashionable form which flares from hip to hem, and a cape made separately; the other is of coffee-brown diagonal cloth, and consists of skirt, basque, and jacket the latter having a shawl collar of darker velvet The sleeve of the costume is entirely new. It is cnt very full at the top and bottom, and the space between wrist and about half of the lower arm is tucked lengthwise. These tucks must be so close and deep that the lower part of the sleeve can be closed with hooks and eyes which will prevent it from falling over the hand. The odd, vest-like garniture of the other Is made of light-colored, figured silk, and brightens the gown effectively. The skirt is untrimmed so as to conform to the tailor-made appearance of the costume. The jacket is open, and its rovers are of the diagonal,

about five inches wide at the top but only one and a half inches at the bottom. The jacket flares somewhat at the bottom, and the back is laid in a pleat from the waist down. The puffs made to sleeves a little while ago seem qu'tto inadequate now, and the effect can be added to in many wave. A ruffle of color and material contrasting with the rest of the drees, can be stiffened and put on like an epaulet In case of a plain dark gown, these shoulder ruffles may be the only touch of color. They may be made of the material doubled, or may be lined with silk or satin either to match or contrast Another way is to make a puff that originally came to tho elbow, push up to just a shoulder puff, thus getting the full value of all the stuff. Make new lower sleeves, and these may match or contrast according to your cloth. To look at her you wouldn’t think it, lut this gentle-looking young woman has defied legislatures aud anti-crino-line leagues and permitted her dressmaker to line her skirt with hair cloth. In a few months she will pretend to wonder how she ever endured those flimsy skirts. Her costume can be reproduced In any desired material, but ears should be taken to have the bands of embroidery and feather trimming a few shades darker than the dross. The blouse is cut very full and closes at the shoulder and under the arm. A wide, embroidered belt finishes the waist, and the front of the blouse has throe rows

of like embroidery. The sleeve is tight and has a large puff at the shoulder. The rage for plaids of two sea-ons 1 ago has subsided in a largo degree and plaids are now mostly worn in silk for waists with plain skirls, but occasional handsome costumes are seen composed of plaid throughout, and the squares are invariably large. A eorroot example is here' given. It is very light tan-colored cloth plaidod in large squares by tiny stripes of pale-bluo and lan, somewhat darker than the ground color. Hercules braid forms the sole trimming of the gown and Is a light tan. It runs aiound the bottom and down tho front. The fronts arc a trlflo biased at the outer edge and the second deeper dart is altogether on the bias; this is rendered necessary by the large plaid in order to make a more slender waist. In joining the seams of the basque the greatest oare mußt be paid to the evenness of tho squares. The sleeves are leg-o’-mutton and hook on tho outer seam near the wrist. Tho skirt Is three and a quarter yards wide. The initial picture shows another pretty model for street wear. It would look well made up in Bedford cord and trimmed with braid. As if it is not enough that we should endure crinoline, tho dreadful whisper “chignons” Is heard. How can it bo possible that women, after the education the simplicity and beauty of hairdressing for some years must have beon, can consent to hanging a bag nndding at the backs of their heads! But it looks as if they were going to do

it. A wad of hair—shapeless, and with no reference to the shape of the head, or to the beauty of the hair itseif—is to be crammed In o a net and pinned onto tho back of the head. Of course, In less than no time net and wad will bo taken off together and put on together, the real hair being concealed under the artificial wad. It would be as well to hang anything else on the back of the head, the wad mentioned having little resemblance to hair, and if the old styles are to come back, being as much net as hair, anyhow, why not use a sofa pillow, or a loaf of bread, or any other arbitrary “ornament,” to fill up the space. Either suggestion seems nicer than a lot of never combed, already “done up” hair. It does seem that woman, having been sweet and clean and graceful foi several seasons, indeed since the bustle went out, must now have a change and make herself hideous. Copyright. 1893.

BECOMING OUTDOOR WEAR.

ODD SLEEVES AND VEST EFFECT.

M1..1> AND VENTURESOME-

IN LAHGE CHECKS.