Democratic Sentinel, Volume 17, Number 13, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 14 April 1893 — Page 5

PROPOSED TARIFF BILL

DRAWN IN THE INTERESTS' OF THE PEOPLE. The Committee Makes Public the Proposed Measure and Explains Its Principal Features—Protectionists Getting DesperateCopies of the BUI Can Be Had Free. The New Bill. The special committee of the Reform Club, apiOinted immediately after the election of Cleveland to prepare a draft for a tariff bill which the club will urge as a substitute for the McKinley bill, has made public its proposed measure. It is drawn in strict accordance with the Democratic platform, and in the interests of the people. It contains only ad valorem duties; makes raw materials free; places much lower or no duties upon the necessaries of life than upon luxuries; and lays revenue duties upon the bulk of manufactured goods—iron, steel, woolens, cottons, silks, linens, gloves, etc. The following abstracts from the memorandum accomj anying tables, and schedules of rates, explain some of the principal features of the bills: 1. Crude materials, to be used in the process of manufacture, are in general made tree of duty. In taxing other articles, the general object has been to fix such rates as would produce the largest amount of revenue, in a series of years, consistent with large Importations. The purpose of obtaining the largest revenue has, however, been limited by consideration of the welfare and necessities of the people at large, and especially the poorer classes. Taxes upon necessaries of life have been kept down to the lowest point which the needs ot revenue permit. ~~ It has not been thought necessary, and hardly proper, to reduce rates merely for the purpose of avoiding some incidental protection to domestic producers. All duties have been made strictly ad valorem, except some of those which are levied as compensatory for internal revenue taxes upon similar articles produced at home. Everybody must admit that in theory the ad valorem system is the only correct one. It is the only system which is not oppressive to the poor, or which does not require continual revision in order to prevent the tariff from becoming an instrument of private gain more and more every year. A complete system of specific duties, to be at all just, would require the enumeration of fully 10,000 different articles. Under the present law, articles worth from ten cents to S2OO per pound are included under a common duty of 50 cents per pound. This is absurd and Iniquitous. 2. All foreign articles which, if made here, would be subject to Internal revenue taxes, must, of course, be subjected to at least an equal tax. Whatever ad valorem duty, therefore, is Imposed upon spirits, ale, and beer, must he in addition to a tax equivalent to that levied upon the domestic article. 3. Luxuries. The theory of imposing a heavy tax upon luxuries is plausible, but needs to be applied with great caution. The theory itself is often incorrectly stated. The object which should bo aimed at is the collection of the largest possible amount of revenue from luxuries; not the mere imposition of the highest possible rate of taxes. The present duty of 45 per cent, upon manufactures of gold and sliver Is almost prohibitory; and a duty of only 10 per cent, on precious stones, cut but not set, produces twelve times as much revenue as a duty of 50 per cent, on the same things in the form of jewelry. Even a duty of 10 per cent, unon precious stones is so nigh as to lead to much smuggling; and any increase in this rate would ultimately lead to a reduction of revenue. Yielding in part to the popular opinion that silk is a luxury, we have placed silk manufactures generally In Schedule C, at 30 per cent., Instead of with cottons and woolens. Silk yams, silk thread, sewing silk and Bpun and thrown silk are placed in Schedule F at 10 per cent., leaving raw silk, of course, free. 4. The 25 per cent, schedule is the most important of any, and is purposely made the most sweeping. Long experience has shown that this rate of duty is, upon the whole, the most productive of revenue. It has been assumed that the presumption was in favor of this rate upon almost everything; and, wherever these schedules impose a higher or a lower rate, there is a special reason for so doing. 5. In placing a large list of articles in the 25 per cent, schedule, it is not forgotten that many of these articles are really materials for further manufacture. One beauty of a strictly ad valorem system is that one uniform rate of duty can be imposed upon such manufactures without doing serious injustice. Manufactures of earthenware, glass and fur have been left subject to the uniform rate of 25 per cent. (J. Metals. All forms of crude metal, not merely in ores but in pigs, ingots and bars, with the exception of iron and steel, have been made tree of duty. Iron and steel. In the form of pigs and Ingots,' have been left at a duty of 20 per cent., while in bars, rods, etc., they are left subjeot to the general duty of 25 per cent. 7. COTTON. All manufactured cotton is put in the 25 per cent, schedule, except yarns and thread, which are put at 15 per cent. The reason for making a lower rate upon yams Is obvious enough. Yams are clearly material used exclusively for purposes of manufacture. Thread is also used for manufacturing purposes only, and is in no proper sense a finished product. o. nax, hemp and jute manufactures aTe divided into three classes, for special reasons. It being settled that all the crude materials are to be free, it is obvious that finished manufactures of this kind, literally “ready for consumption,” should not be taxed more than 25 per cent. The House of Representatives has voted, with substantial unanimity among the Democratic members, to repeal all duties upon binding twine and cotton bagging; the first in the interest of Northern farmers, and the second in the interest of Southern planters. Burlaps and bagging are articles, the cost of wnich is largely a tax upon farmers, and upon these the duties should be made very light. A tax upon cables and cordage is a tax upon American shipping; and in view of the contemplated changes in the navigation laws the duty upon these articles should certainly be light. Linen should be subjected to the lowest duty consisteht with revenue requirements. It is here placed in the ‘>o per cent, schedule. 9. Woolens. The duty upon woolen and worsted manufactures of every description except yams is placed at twenty-five per cent This is certainly large enough, because this was all which was asked by the woolen manufacturers in 1857, when the supposed ideal woolen tariff was adopted. The manufacturers then stated that twenty-five per cent, net protection was all which they asked. After the internal revenue was abolished, the woolen manufacturers retained and even increased the amount of the protection which had been granted as compensation for that tax. It is believed that yams should be admitted at a lower ad valorem rate than the other manufactures of wool, and they are put in the fifteen per cent, schedule. •10. Gloves. Leather gloves and all othef gloves, except of silk, are placed in thetwentvfive per cent, schedule. Gloves are not a luxury; they are a necessity. 11. The 20 per cent, schedule includes, in addition to the articles already mentioned, several others which should be briefly commented upon. Manufactures of wood in the most finished forms are placed here, because the present tax on them is 35 per cent,, and this seems a reduction proportionate to other ieductions. Such provisions as are taxed at all are also placed in this schedule. Buttons, except of metal or glass, are placed here, because all other button materials, including silk, have long been admitted under 10 per cent, duty; and 25 per cent, for the manufactured article has been found highly protective, proving that a duty of 20 per cent, would produce most revenue. Glass and metal buttons are left practically in the 25 per cent, schedule as branches of those manufactures. 12. PnovisioNS. Most provisions are made free of duty; but some, which partake in a mild degree of the nature of luxuries, are put in the 20 per cent, schedule, while breadstuffs are mostly made free. Barley is made an exception, because it is need but little for bread, and is mostly purchased for the purpose of manufacturing beer. A tax of 10 per cent upon this is only a beer tax in another form. Po - tatoes are also subject to a duty of lo per cent., because those which are imported are, in four years out of five, chietiv of a superior kind, used as a comparative luxury. 13. Books. Since the enactment of the international copyright law,a very strong argument maybe made for the admission of all hooks free of duty, since practically none could be admitted which would come Into direct competition with any lawful trade in the United States. Domestic books could not be admitted without the consent of the domestic publishers; and foreign books, copyrighted here, could not be admitted at all. On the other hand, so long as paper, binding materials and machinery are taxed, it is not just to make competing books free. The demand for revenue mav well turn the scale, and 10 per ' cent, is probably the best revenue duty. The free list Is extended to books more than live years old, and books received through the mail, not more than twocopies to one address. All articles upon which the revenue collected is too small to pay for collection, and upon which it is not probable that any mere reduction of rates would produce substantial revenue, have been placed upon the free list. Annexed to the proposed bill are tables containing the actual Imports and rates for 1892, the proposed new rates, the receipts on the basis of the importations of 1892, estimated imports for lsw4 and estimated receipts frr 1894, computed on the proposed new rates. We are satisfied that the pioposed tariff would piodnce an immediate revenue of $120,0u0,000, if not more. The ordinary expenditures of the Government, including postal expenses and sinking fpnd requirements, for the next fiscal year are estimated at $370,000,C00 Receipts from internal revenue and other sources, except the tariff.... 192,000,000 Balance required.... •...4178,500 > 000

Eotimated arrears of pensions payable within the year 45,000.000 Balance required for permanent current expanses $133,000,000 To meet this demand the tariff here proposed will provide an income of $120,000,000 for the first year, which will steadily Increase, and, in onr opinion, will produce an average annual income of $105,000,0uu during the first five years of its existence. The tariff here proposed would leave a deficiency of revenue for the first year of $58,000,000, or. excluding arrears of pensions, $13,000,000. The question afl res, how this deficiency is to be met. It may be done in any of three ways: 1. By short-date Government bills, to be paid out of the revenue of the next five years, which will certainly be sufficient for that purpose, because three-fourths of the deficiency wUI cease within two years. 2. By a duty on sugar, and perhaps on tea and Coff66a 3. By an Income tax upon natural and artificial monopolies, such as railroads, telegraphs, telephones, gasworks, and rents. The Reform Club proposed tariff bill is now ready for lree distribution at the office,s2 William street, New York City. Send in your address and secure a copy. If you are a farmer, mechanic, clerk, professional man or common laborer, it will pay you to study this bill and to ask your Congressmen to support it, or a similar one.

Who Made the Bill.

The committee appointed by the Reform Club to draft a proposed tariff bill consists of E. Ellery Anderson, Hon. Charles S. Fairchild, Thomas G. Shearman, Prof. David A. Wells. Hon. John Dewitt Warner, Everett P.Wheeler, and Jacob Schoenhof. Mr. Anderson, the chairman, i 9 an expresident of and a big contributor to the Reform Club Mr. Fairchild was Secretary of the Treasury during Cleveland’s first administration, and is now President of the Reform Club. Mr. Shearman has for a third of a century been one of the most successful of customs attorneys in New York. He was Beecher’s attorney during the famous Beech-er-Tilton trial. He Is eminent as a lawyer, statistician, and philanthropist Prof. Wells has written more books and pamphlets on the tariff question than any other American. His “Becent Economic Changes” is regarded as one of the two or three great books of this generation. Congressman Warner is widely known as a writer and speaker on tariff and financial questions. He is the author of many of the Reform Club’s most telling pamphlets and, more than any other man, has been the backbone of the Club since its origin In 1887. Mr. Wheeler, is well as a lawyer, writer and speaker on economic questions. He is also an ex-president of the Reform Club. Mr. Schoenhof was Consul to Tunstal, England, under Cleveland, and is the author of several works on the tariff and wage question. It would be difficult to get together seven men better qualified to frame a tariff bill than these gentlemen. They are all successful business men; all have studied the needs of the people for many years; from their intimacy with different industries they know about what reductions are necessary and safe. They owe nothing politically to any protected manufacturers, and are in league with no clique of office-holders or spoilsmen; they have demonstrated their unselfisiiness and devotion to principle by giving their money, time an 1 thought to the tariff and other reforms; they have no ax to grind in proposing a new tariff bill, and do so only to educate the people, keep the Democratic party in line, and see that the promises made to the people are carried out in good faith. But little impression can be made upon such a committee by calling its members “theorists,” “cranks,” “hobbyriders” or “imbeciles,” and yet protectionists are compelled lo put up some kind of opposition to a bill that would actually stop the greater part of the tariff robbery. Their case is certainly desperate.

The Halford Scandal.

Secretary Gresham has made a discovery in the State Department which reflects as much credit upon his own sagacity as it reflects discredit upon his predecessor in office. The facts as given in a Washington dispatch are briefly these: John W. Foster, while Secretary of State, ordered the payment of sls a day to Major Elijah W. Halford for his services as disbursing officer of the Behring Sea Commission. This was in addition to his salary of $3,600 a year as paymaster of the army, making his total pay about $8,675 a year. Mr. Foster was equally generous with J. Stanley Brown, the husband of Mollie Garfield. Notwithstanding the fact that he was already drawing $lO a day as an officer of the Treasury Department, he was allowed sls a day additional as a member of the staff of the Behring Sea Commission. Seven or eight other officials were likewise allowed double salaries. These disclosures are astounding. While it Was known that Secretary Foster was by profession a sort of lobbyist for foreign interests, it was not supposed that he would be guilty of any such scandalous work as this. Neither was it supposed that Maj. Halford was the kind of a man who would consent to profit by an imposition of this sort Both men were thought to be above doing anything dishonorable. Secretaries Gresham and Carlisle are entitled to the thanks of the public for bringing to light this fraud—this looting of the treasury by men in high places. They will be entitled to still more gratitude if they shall promptly put a stop to the whole disgraceful double-salary system. —Chicago Record.

Why You Should Support It.

The Reform Club bill is the first bill ever framed entirely in the interests of tho people and without dictation from manufacturers or those with “vested rights. ” The makers of it are all eminent as scholars, and several of them as philanthropists. They a: e all recognized as authorities on the tariff question. With duo consideration for past and present conditions, they have made a bill too good to be fairly appreciated at once; hence they have published it six months before Congress meets, in order that proper timo may be had for general discussion. Speakers will also be sent out to discuss its merits, and perhaps to aid in securing petitions to Congress in favor of this or a similar bill. It will not do for the people to trust entirely to their Representatives in Congress. Popular sentiment must express itself. Many Representatives did not understand the full import of the last election; others have weak backs or elastic consciences which would bend and stretch before tho millions and billions of dollars that will be represented in Washington in opposition to such a measure. “Vested interests” are quick to begin work along effective lines. They have already cried out against this bill, and will leave no stone unturned to prevent its passage. They wish to continue their robbery of the people, ana will bribe and corrupt Congress, if possible, in the future as in the past. The only antidote for the poison is the strong assertion of public sentiment in editorials, speeches, and petitions. Let it be manifest in 4 way that shall leave no doubt in the minds of our Representatives of what is expected of them.

The Queen's English.

Lord Palmerston’s reply to the illiterate member who asked him', “Are there two hens In ’Oniton?” is a specimen of his rather boisterous chaff. "No, only one; that’s why heggs are so scarce there.” Mr. Disraeli’s comment upon a portrait of himself, “Is It not hideous? and so like,” exhibited a discernment not eommon with unflattered sitters.

MODES FOR THE MONTH.

SOME LATE NEW YORK FASHION IDEAS. If Fashion Says to Wear a Certain Style Garment You Are Justified In Doing So. Even Though It Does Look HideousEven the Dreadful Whisper Chignon Is Heard. Gossip from Gotham. New York correspondence:

the ” new Empire cloaks, Wl, it should be said Ki that they look a good deal like bath and gloriwrappers. But 7/?V\ 1 \ the faß h‘ on SAyS f/A'\ » Empire cloak you ’//\\ are all right in H u, / wearing one, only /\ r you will feel when / y you put it on a oerA | tain need to l%J>el yourself that the M / observer may not Ijj LA mistake your inJf/ O' tention. One deUl sign is set on a / IrT yoke, at, d It hangs it loose all around, J>\ except right in [J \ front and in the 1' l back.whereapanel \ of velvet is intro- \ duced. This hangs \ unfitted, but qulto , 11 flat and without I|\ folds. Sleeves are ' M very wide and very •*1 ‘lm'jt loose * The ftenerrAal effect is so cora—fortable and loose-

looking that one wonders if there is a dress beneath after all. A loose Empire mantle of another sort is portrayed at the left In the first Illustration. It Is made of black diagonal and black bengalino, and is lined with black silk, showing a design in tiny red flowerets. At the bottom the mantle is wide and flaring, but at the top it is pleated to a square yoke. The yoke has a linen lining to stiffen it. The leg-o’-mutton sloeve Is made of bengaline and is very full at the top. There is a standing collar, which is partially Mdden by‘a niching of black ribbon that continues down the front in two long ends. The yoke is edged with black silk cord passementerie about three inches wide. The garment can be made tight-fitting in the back if desired by a ribbon sewed to the fabric at the waist line and tied with a bow in front. The costume of the companion figure has a wide, flaring sailor collar, which

BECOMING OUTDOOR WEAR.

lends a dashing, youthful air. Heavy dark-blue cheviot and dark-blue braid in widths from one to two inches, are respectively the material and trimming. The skirt is in the usual bell form. At the waist the cheviot is draped loosely over the tight lining to form a blouse. The front shows a plastron, made separately and lined with satin; it is sewed to the collar and to the front underneath the sailor collar, and there books over. The sleeve is the old-fashioned full blouse sleeve with a narrow cuff. A large, flaring straw hat, trimmed with ribbon bows and wings, Is worn with it. The pointed crown survives curiously In this season’s hats. It can be seen carried out in a pagoda effect of jeweled wires that rise gloriously in curved and glittering lines over where the crown of the hat is supposed to be. Through the spaces the hair shows. The brim of such a hat may be either solid, or wired lace, or mere jeweled wire. Most often the brim is solid, and when of green felt, edged with a rampant row of grasses, the pagoda rising from the center, it has the general effect of a Chinese landscape, architecture, vegetation, and all. Straight brims are seldom seen in big hats. The brim is very wide, but it is flared straight up, and this often right in front The chip used is so fine and soft that on either siae of the flare the brim droops gracefully, and the upright effect does not give awkwardness. A rich rose seems to hold the brim up, and is half crushed under the edge of

ODD SLEEVES AND VEST EFFECT.

the hat Quite as if It -were worn in the hair, and not a part of the hat Two very stylish spring costumes are the subjects of the next sketch. One is of tan-colored woolen suiting, (rimmed with dark-brown velvet and satin ribbon in different widths, and has the skirt of the fashionable form which flares from hip to hem, and a cape made separately; the other is of coffee-brown diagonal cloth, and consists of skirt, basque, and jacket the latter having a shawl collar of darker velvet The sleeve of the costume is entirely new. It is cnt very full at the top and bottom, and the space between wrist and about half of the lower arm is tucked lengthwise. These tucks must be so close and deep that the lower part of the sleeve can be closed with hooks and eyes which will prevent it from falling over the hand. The odd, vest-like garniture of the other Is made of light-colored, figured silk, and brightens the gown effectively. The skirt is untrimmed so as to conform to the tailor-made appearance of the costume. The jacket is open, and its rovers are of the diagonal,

about five inches wide at the top but only one and a half inches at the bottom. The jacket flares somewhat at the bottom, and the back is laid in a pleat from the waist down. The puffs made to sleeves a little while ago seem qu'tto inadequate now, and the effect can be added to in many wave. A ruffle of color and material contrasting with the rest of the drees, can be stiffened and put on like an epaulet In case of a plain dark gown, these shoulder ruffles may be the only touch of color. They may be made of the material doubled, or may be lined with silk or satin either to match or contrast Another way is to make a puff that originally came to tho elbow, push up to just a shoulder puff, thus getting the full value of all the stuff. Make new lower sleeves, and these may match or contrast according to your cloth. To look at her you wouldn’t think it, lut this gentle-looking young woman has defied legislatures aud anti-crino-line leagues and permitted her dressmaker to line her skirt with hair cloth. In a few months she will pretend to wonder how she ever endured those flimsy skirts. Her costume can be reproduced In any desired material, but ears should be taken to have the bands of embroidery and feather trimming a few shades darker than the dross. The blouse is cut very full and closes at the shoulder and under the arm. A wide, embroidered belt finishes the waist, and the front of the blouse has throe rows

M1..1> AND VENTURESOME-

of like embroidery. The sleeve is tight and has a large puff at the shoulder. The rage for plaids of two sea-ons 1 ago has subsided in a largo degree and plaids are now mostly worn in silk for waists with plain skirls, but occasional handsome costumes are seen composed of plaid throughout, and the squares are invariably large. A eorroot example is here' given. It is very light tan-colored cloth plaidod in large squares by tiny stripes of pale-bluo and lan, somewhat darker than the ground color. Hercules braid forms the sole trimming of the gown and Is a light tan. It runs aiound the bottom and down tho front. The fronts arc a trlflo biased at the outer edge and the second deeper dart is altogether on the bias; this is rendered necessary by the large plaid in order to make a more slender waist. In joining the seams of the basque the greatest oare mußt be paid to the evenness of tho squares. The sleeves are leg-o’-mutton and hook on tho outer seam near the wrist. Tho skirt Is three and a quarter yards wide. The initial picture shows another pretty model for street wear. It would look well made up in Bedford cord and trimmed with braid. As if it is not enough that we should endure crinoline, tho dreadful whisper “chignons” Is heard. How can it bo possible that women, after the education the simplicity and beauty of hairdressing for some years must have beon, can consent to hanging a bag nndding at the backs of their heads! But it looks as if they were going to do

IN LAHGE CHECKS.

it. A wad of hair—shapeless, and with no reference to the shape of the head, or to the beauty of the hair itseif—is to be crammed In o a net and pinned onto tho back of the head. Of course, In less than no time net and wad will bo taken off together and put on together, the real hair being concealed under the artificial wad. It would be as well to hang anything else on the back of the head, the wad mentioned having little resemblance to hair, and if the old styles are to come back, being as much net as hair, anyhow, why not use a sofa pillow, or a loaf of bread, or any other arbitrary “ornament,” to fill up the space. Either suggestion seems nicer than a lot of never combed, already “done up” hair. It does seem that woman, having been sweet and clean and graceful foi several seasons, indeed since the bustle went out, must now have a change and make herself hideous. Copyright. 1893.

New England Farms.

Two causes were originally assigned for the desertion of rural New England; the desire of the young people to get into towns, where there is more life, and the natural exhaustion of the soil. The extension of railroad systems, that makes it easy for country people to get Into towns, fox business or amusement, would seem in a measure to obviate the first tendency and the long rest that some ol the abandoned farms have had would seem to invalidate objection on the other score; nevertheless, a Massa- | chusetts farm of 500 acres, with i house, wells, sheds, and barns comi plete, easy to reach from the Berkshire towns and seven miles from a railroad, was sold at auction a few weeks ago for SBOO. There are social economists who declare that within ten years a reflex wave of population will roll from the West and the weedgrown farms of New England will ouce again be tilled. An Action may be so clothed as to change its proper effect on the people; with most of us a sugar-coated vice seems preferable to a lepper-coated virtue. A load of sorrow doesn’t wear one so much as a swarm of annoyances.

FOR THE LADIES.

NAMES OF JAPANESE GIKIA Many of the pretty and suggestive little words that servo ns names for Japanese girls are as charming in English as in Japanese. It is not uncommon for a Japanese girl to bear the name of a flower. On the other baud, however, many girls in Japan bear the names of some domestic utensil, as frying pan or dust brush. Doubtless this results from the custom common among some jreoples of naming a child for the first object that strikes the eye after the little one has come iuto the world.—[Chicago Herald. THE DINNER WOMAN. “The born hostess,” writes Helen Barrett Bridgman in the Brooklyn StandardUnion, “knows that the good dinner woman is a verv rare bird. She must not bo too olcl, she must not be too youug; she must not bo unpleasant to look upon, neither must she be a beautiful automaton; she must be quick, responsive, interesting and vivacious, but sne must not monopolize tho conversation and cause others to fight for their rights; she must have in her the spirit of the bohemienue, yet she must be the epitome of good breeding and refinement —in fine, she must be the most fascinating flower of a complex civilization."

PROTECT! NO A WRAPPER. A good way to protect the bottom of a delicate wrapper is to edge it with black ribbon. The same idea holds in putting an edge of velvet under the bottom of the street skirt, or any other skirt, for that mutter. Tho line of dark color not only makes tho delicate shades übovo them seem more delicate, but soiling is avoided. In bull dresses, too, put a puff—not a full ouo—of mull or muslin about the edge of the skirt, matching it in color exactly. The puff is really not noticed, and it does, save the edge of tho gown. When it is renewed the gown is as fresh as ever, whereas, had it been the edge of the dress itself tlmt had been soiled, there would havo becu uo renewing.—[Oneo A Week. PRACTICAL HOME TRAINING. One summer a lady had 2GO girls from offices, stores and factories to board during two weeks’ vacation. At the end of the summer she found that but nine of the number knew how to make abed, and many of them made it a boast that they “had never made a bed in their livos^’ Sffßie did not oven know whether a shoot or blanket should bo put ot> first. And those wero uot destitute girls, tint such as represent our self-respecting wage-earners—girls who were boarders, paying a fair price, and yet who were expected to make their own beds. Mothers had not trained them. There are hundreds of bright, intelligent girls of fiftceu, sixteen, eighteen, and even older, who have never sewed and do not know whether a thimble should go on their thumbs or forefinger. What kind of wives and mothers aro they to make? —[New York World.

CAME PREPARED TO SUED TEARS. A correspondent of the Pittsburg Dispatch tells of a young woman who wout to tho matinee prepared for the affecting parts of the play. She carried lightly sewed to the conter of a second handkerchief a tiny powder puff, which she proceeded to dust with powder from a little enameled box into which it fitted. With the puff concealed in the handkerchief she calmly watched the scene, progress to the agony point, ignoring the tears that, sure enough, began presently to stream down her checks. When the curtain fell, liowover, she took instant advantage of tho momentary reaction of the audience, and wiping her face with one handkerchief, with the second she cleverly dusted her too red nose and cheeks with the toning-down powder, and triumphantly beamed upon the women about her who were not so cleverly forearmed. HINTS FOII SPRING. Plumetis, a French dotted Swiss, with tinted designs, is one of the dainty things sure to form at least one gown in the wardrobe of the real summer girl. Slippers laced with ribbon to imitate a sandal effect are worn with Empire gowns. Most of the dresses that are uow being made have no darts at the top of the skirt, the fullness being gathered into the waistband. The return of tho shawl is prophesied. A suggestion of it has appeared in long scarfs of lace or velvet that encircle the shoulders aud hang to the foot of the gown. What is known as “shadow” velvet promises to be more, fashionable than ever the coming season. Recent importations show those that are a vision of splendor, with their superb rainbow hues, of which one only obtains a glimpse through the dark surface pile. Women wear as many rings on their fingers os they can. Rings are a perfect frenzy. It may be observed that, as a general rule, skirts have widened at the top. Plaits and gathers contribute to this effect. In some very stylish examples there are ns many as six or seven breadths in a bell skirt Five straight breadths ore seen in round skirts made full.—[St. Louis Republic.

ENGLISH OIHLS WALK ALONE. The independence of action characteristic of the day as regards the feminine world in England exercises a marked effect upon the attitude taken up by young girls belonging to the upper classes. Formerly they were hedged' round by many restraints; they were not allowed to go here or there without being guarded by one of their own sex, either by mother or maid, says the Queen. Did they go shopping, a maid must gos too, and sit in the strop side by side with them; did they go out to afternoon tea, or to make a call the maid must go, too, and wait in the hall. It is now considered quite permissible and quite conventional lor a young girl to walk by herself through the streets of London. She may walk alone when shopping, when visiting, when attending classes or lectures, to early and late church services, to study art at South Kensington and other museums, or travel by train on district, main or suburban lines, or wherever engagements lead. The line is cortainly drawn at walking in Hyde Park alone, although some few independent maidons considet their pet dogs quite sufficient protection even there, but there is no r3strictiou as to the length of time a young lady may look in at snop windows.—[Boston Record. A SLEEPING ROOM. In the sleeping apartment of a young New York woman, the daughter of a man many times a millionaire, the wail paper is pale gold, or faint slate color. The

gilt bedstead is pushed against * square' cf plaited silk of pale gold, with slatec. lured silk bows at the corner. A similar background of plaited silk rises to the ceiling above the toilet stnnd. On that are pitcher, bowl and soap dish, for you must know that running water is supposed to invite sewer gas. Theso pieces of crockery arc all of the finest ware. A beveled edge mirror six feet high swings on brass rods above the floor in one corner. She has also a folding glgss. wjiich reflects her ears, back hair and neck. There is an open fireplaeo, besides a hot-air register, a dressing stand laden with pretty toilet boxes aud bottles, an ivory dock like a bird cage, in which ivory canaries trill sweetly as each hour begius; easy chairs and rocking chairs to match tho wall paper and furniture; a pretty little prio dieu and a wealth of bric-a-brac, completing an effect that is exquisite, dainty and inviting beyond comparison. Connected with this room the young millionairess hns another apartment where she writes aud paints when she feels called upon to do so. This room was on inspection the other day. This may account for the succeeding remarks or it may not. Nowhere was there a hint of disorder—thero were uo shoes lying about or article of clothing on chairs or bed. Everything was as neatly ordered as the most critical visitor could wish. There were two tiny kid slippers peeping out from under tho bed, but they seemed part of the artistic finish of everything.—[Bt. Louis Post-Dispatch.

FASHION NOTES. The sick blouse waist is pretty and stylish to wear with skirts of old dresses. Lusterless enamel in floral desigus prevails lor mourning pins, aud a number of new forms havo been added. Gulloous aro especially effective, and they come in grenadine studded witli jet drops, and in net embroidered in metallic beads.. Butternut-brown of a decidedly reddish sliude appears amoug some of tho handsomest materials. Chiffon jabots in a variety of pretty coloriugs aro very dainty accessories, and make an otherwuys plain gown dressy and effective. Capes aro exceedingly popular, and tho cloth cape, with short frilled top edged with narrow fur, is very fashionablo. Sleeves continue to bo as dressy as ever, and in tho latest gowns from Paris tho puff droops slightly, though they grow in width accordingly. Necklaces are by no mentis fashionable. A tiny thread of gold with a goin at the end is all that is tolerated, oxeopt on occasions of magnificence. Cloth dresses, in princess stylo, lmvo vests of draped cl'<*h of a. contrasting color, and are tri .0.l with lengthwise rows of fur. A number of stylish wool toilets recently exhibited were combined with velours or velvet-striped beuguliue, flecked with gold or bronze. A corselet of the square Russian shape shows four rows of jeweled gimp and velvet, each row being held by a jeweled clasp. Skirts of cloth gowns have from three to five rows of blnok corded twilled or satin ribbon iu graduated widths as a foot trimming, euch row often surmounted by a narrow gilt braid. Tho Anne of Austria collar, which turns away at tho neck, leaving tho throat exposed, is popularly used lor dinner gowns. Venetian point, Honiton, and duchess lace are in vogue for those collars, which uro almost invariably becoming. The skirts of dresses for very little children, if not made like a long blouse, are trimmed with several tucks of another color and material, interrupted by rows of embroidery answering tho ground hue, and mounted with a double heading on a plaited chornisettc with a collar of the two stuffs. A very elegant and stylish now shoe is a walkiug boot of patent leather without the least adornment in the way of tips, but cut in long, elegant shape, *vith a thick English sole and heel. It has a cloth top, with a strap or buckle under the instep to imitate the neatest fitting gaiter. The popularity of bengaline and all silken wool effects is prominently shown in the large quantities of poplin weaves and of silk-figured woolens imported this season.

The very wide rovers, known as the “Empire,” are most effective on house dresses of scarlet, pink or blue crepou, and though made of black satin no other portion of tho gown needs to be of the sombre shade. The narrow block velvet ribbon with colored edges has como back looking just as it did in the early sixties. Even the baby ribbon has colored edges. The scarlet-edged black is pretty on children’s hats. Shoes grow more and more pointed, and foot doctors rejoice. Figures would fuil to compute the misery and suffering and bad temper that are caused by narrow-toed shoes. White petticoats of very thin, fine lawn are quite the rage. Some of the newest are several inches shorter thun the black silk petticoat. They are elaborately ruffled and puffed, and triinmod with lace und embroidery. The handsomest cloak for an elderly lady who does not wish black velvet is black peau-de-soie, the lustreless black satin. It is made in broad flat box plaits reaching to the floor, with some superb jet on the bodice, and, with its full sleeves, makes one of the quietest but most elegant garments imaginable. Very dark brown silk and gold braidings severally are used fordeeorations. Coats have full velvet sleeves with braided cuffs These wraps, at greatly reduced prices, arc copied and sold by expert American designers. Fashion has decreed that jewels need not necessarily be extravagant in kind and price, but they must be chic. The jeweler culls these .“secondary” stones. The chrysophrase is one of these; so is the aquamarine. Topazes are much used for lace and hairpins, and “chippings” of emeralds, sapphires and other precious gems are sometimes used to enhance the effect of ornaments for both the neck, arms and coiffure, the chippings being used to outline the various devices made of the “secondary" stones. Seamless bodices, flaring skirts and distended sleeves sum up the fashions of the present moment. Seamless bodices, while a pitfall to the amateur dressmaker, are remarkably effective on a graceful figure, in the hands of a high-class modiste.

A Glant Oak Cut in Indiana.

An oak tree, six feet in diameter at the butt and fifty-two feet to the first

limb, was felled near Coatleton, lud., flu other day. Above the first limbs wa» made a twelve-foot log. It produced 0,000 feet of lumber, and, reckoned by its rings, is 500 years old. It is thought to be the finest specimen of its kind a the country and will likely be taken to the World’s Fair.—[St. Louis Repobbcu

AROUND THE HOUSE.

To removclnk stuins from a carpet use javelle water. To remove paint from a garment, me, with benzine, rub with a woolen doth then wet and rub again. The Cahe of the Oven. —The condition of tho average stove oven in which food and pastry are baked is not such ns to inspire admiration. In tact, a perfuuctory sort of sweeping is about all the cleaning our stove ovqns ever receive. In a great many cases remnants of dishes whioti have boiled over remain forroontha charred on the oven bottom. Now all this negligence in the care of the oven undoubtedly affects the food cooked in it. In some parts of England where brick ovens are used, the walls of them are whitewashed. This purifies them, an common whitewash, it is well known, is an excellent disinfectant. Of course, it would not be possible to treat an ordinary iron stove oven in this wny, as the lime would corrode the oven. In some part;# of Europe, the ovens are tiled and these may be easily washed cleou. There is no possible objection to washing out the oven of an iron range. If this is done systematically at least once a week from the beginning, tho oven will never get in the black sooty condition in which it is so frequently found. When anything boils over in tho oven, it should lie allowed to burn to a char, as it then may bo easily scraped off and brushed oat. After this tho oven should be thoroughly aired. It is a great mlatako to buke a delicato dessert or cake or pie in tho same oven with a dish of meat which has been flavored with onions or strong spices. Tho flavor of the meat will invariably affect the moro delicate dishes. Tho shallow closet under the baking oven, commonly called the heating closot, where dishes may be temporarily kept warm after thoy are cooked, should be kept as clean as the stove oven. It is certainly a very disagreeable and a hard job to clean a stove wlucb has been uoglected, but it is u small matter to keep u stove clean, if you begin at the begiuuiug and uover allow it to become clogged with »oot and dust and tho debris of food. The fluos of every oven should bo cleaned out once a month.

Tonsils Cauterized in Sleep.

For the past five months a girl of thirteen, of good family, had been lying iq a state of complete lcthurgy ir. a private hospital at Yesinet, outside Paris. The sleeping maiden Ims been recently restored to consciousness by Doctor lteffcgenu, who had charge of her, in a peculiar manner. She usually lay asleep with her.mouth wide open and her throat exposed to view. The physician noticed' that one of the tonsils was enlarged, so ho resolved to cauterize it with a redhot iron, nn operation which would be bonuficial to tho patient, even if it did not have the effect of terminating her cataleptic condition. After tho iron had done its work, the girl, who had been previously insensible to the pricking of pins, manifested unmistakable signs of pain and uttered n feeble cry. From that moment slie bogun to return gradually to eonsciousnesK, and at lust awoke, saying to tho nun who was tnking care of her, “Where am If" The patient had no recollection or notion of anything that hail taken place during the five mouths in which she was asleep, and manifested tho greatest surjirise when told about her extraordinarily long slumber. She is now said to be in u normal stato of health, full of spirits, and eager to make up for her long silence.— [London Telegraph.

How Time is Reckoned.

Tho entire world, Russia alono - excepted, will begin the New Year with* the first day of January. In that benighted country tho year will not be ushered in until March 25. This lost date was the opening of the New Yeex in England aud America up to within less than 150 years ago. In was in 1751 tlmt tho famous Lord Chesterfield secured the passage of a bill which set the beginning of tho Now Year for January 1. In Continental Europe, on the other hand, January 1 has been New Year's Day for more than three centuries. In 1532 it was so ordained by Pope Gregory and adopted by all Europe, with the exception of England, Sweden and Russia. Another change beside that of altering the date of the New Year was made by Lord Chesterfield’s reform. Up to that time tho English calendar was elevea days behind that of other European countries. That is, when It was June 1 or July 1 in England it was the 12th of the month in Continental Europe. By Chesterfield’s change the calendar data was advanced eleven days. This change is what brought about the transition from “Old Style” to “New Style" reckoning.—[New York Journal.

Queer Earth.

They arc dredging some very queer stuff down at McNenr’s basin. They struck it a few feet below the surface and have cut through about 12 feet in depth of it thus far. It is the very embodiment of' toughness. It requires ti> be cut into shavings, as it were, by one passage of the machine, and then in disengaging aud lifting it the ”00 boreepower machine is strained to the utmost, it is very much like dredging a stratum of india rubber. The same machinewould make at least five times the speed and headway through the frioble rock, that underlies our principal streets. Besides being tough, indicating a very large percentage of aluminium in its composition, it is remarkably heavy, much more so than the hardpan or ©rninarv clays of the vicinity.—[Petaluma (Cal.) Courier.

The Plebeian Peanut.

“Peanuts unaristocratic!” exclaimed »- fashionably dressed, bright eyed young miss to her pretty oompanion on a Walnut street car yesterday. “Well what if they are? I’m going to have them served at our dinner party salted, and they sxe ;• perfectly lovely. Salted almonds aren’t in it. All you do is to buy the green or wnparched peanuts, parboil them, rub off the red euvelopes, spread the blanched nuts on a tin dish, treat them to butter, then brown them for half an hour iD a baking but not quick oven, and when they are a light snuff color take them oat at once and suit them while hot. Just try that recipe when you get home, and the lowly peanut will become exalted ICO per cent, in yout eyes.”—[PhiUdelnhia