Democratic Sentinel, Volume 17, Number 9, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 17 March 1893 — FOR LOVELY WOMAN. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

FOR LOVELY WOMAN.

SOME OF FASHION’S LATEST DEVICES. Details of Many New Garment! That Look Well -Pretty Japanese Garments—Stylish House Gowns of the Latest PatternGeneral Fashion Gossip. Modes for the Month. New York correspondence:

OMETIMES the bolero jacket comes together at the top in front, and is cut sharply away from the fastening. The merest apology for a garment beneath makes the effect of a pretty bodice. A che-mise-like little slip, made very full, and cut square at the neck, so that ltßhows •hemlsette-like above the fastening of tho

bolero, will do very well. At the waist it can be wrapped tight in a bodice belt that comes up to where the bolero ends, and of course there are grqjt sleeves. No one could want a prettier dress. The suggestion of black and white need not be followed; brown and cream will do, or a bright green one Is a safe investment, if you have a white and black dress or so, and perhaps an organdie with a green figure. A dull rose color lined with pale gold and embroidered with gold would be a beauiy. Some of them have a heavy frill of laoe sewed In over the top of each asmhole, and when the bolero Is in place this lace of course augments the puff of the sleeve beneath. The lapel collar may be a full ruffle Instead—indeed, a thousand variations may be rung on the pretty fashion, and the dainty thing made, for all that, of some odd end of silk or velvet that you may have on hand, goodness knows how long, because there was not enough of it to make use of. My Initial illustration shows a very pretty bodice of black silk suitable for home wear. It is arranged with yoke and cuffs of pink silk, closely covered with black guipure lace. The bodice is quite full, and can be worn with a wide or narrow black slk band. I have next sketched a lovely neglige of white flannel trimmed with lace. The back is very full and et the waist is laid in pleats, one bunch In the middle, and one on each side, with a belt of folded silk running through. Above the walst-

line and the* belt there are box-pleats, which are sewed to a square yoke. In the skirt the flannel falls in graceful folds and in front is gathered around the neck, the side fronts being of the whole width of the goods. It has broad revers edged with iaoe and is hooked down the middle. The broad sailor collar is trimmed with a bias fold of white silk, and the gown is left open at the neck to display the throat. Another neglige, dress is shown, accompanied, as a safeguard against chilly rooms, by a pleated cape, about three-quarters length. The cape is edged with a ruffle of rich embroidery, sewed on another ruffle of Valenciennes lace. A few gathers are run through the top to form a yoke, and the collar is sewed on with ornate hemstitching. The skirt is of the same material, with three flounces of lace and embroidery. At the waist and neck there are bows of green broche ribbon. Don’t desert the pretty Japanese fashions for house gowns. The great soft wrap-like things, that are held together by the bolt, are cool and soft and warm and light. You can buy them here; at almost any Japanese store they will bring them out if you insist, and if you can only find a store where a little woman serves, you may be able to coax her to make you one. Have it of the soft gray-blue crepe that only the Jans know how to produce, and wear a great figured belt of blaok all full of gold threads, and under it all have another gown of rest crepe that shows at the sleeves and throat and about the feet. This scarlet garment beneath is often a wicked and heathen fake, and is only a sort of puffing of the scarlet crepe stuffed with down or cotton. Of course, you must have black hair and know how to pose yourself over a screen. But no invention of Paris or London or Vienna has ever come up to the Japanese gown

for real comfort and a certain aesthetic value in an interior. Turning from house wear to outdoor garments, I present a promenade coat of velvet. This elegant model has a vest of velvet trimmed with sable or mink fur. The latter continues around the collar and then down the inside of the coat, finishing in a point at the bottom. The coat is heavily embroidered with black silk and Jet. which ornamentation continues down the front and ends in a point about the center of the back. The lower part is cut very full to give several pleats at the baok. The coat is edged down the front with lace, and the overlapping side of the vest is trimmed in tbs same way. The sleeves are

trimmed with fur and tne muff Is • dainty concoction of velvet and lace. With It is worn a round hat of brown velvet The hat Is dented in three places in the back and a little at eaoh, side. The edge of the brim is trimmed with a gathered ruffle of silk lace, which is left pendent In front there is a buo.de of artificial stones plaoed on top of a black satin bow. Another bow of blaok satin ribbon and three ostrich tips are placed at one side. A visiting toilet of rep or bedford cord, having a cape of chinchilla fur. Is to be seen In the last picture. The skirt Is perfectly plain and Is composed of three breadths, one front and two back breadths. The center seam of the latter is bias. The front is slightly gathered at the top, and the two sides are but a trifle bias where they join the front breadth, so little, in fact, as to be hardly noticeable. The tkirt is a little over three yards wide at the bottom, and but few pleats are laid at the top in the back. It is lined with satin or

silk and Is finished with a narrow oording. Nothing Is interposed between this and the fabric, as tho latter is heavy enough, and any additional lining would prevent the folds from hanging properly. The lining of the waist is tight-fitting, and the goods is draped over this, being caught only In the shoulders and under-arm seams. The front Is closed with hooks and eyes, and Is entirely without folds or pleats. The fichu arrangement of changeable gray and green velvet Is crossed and sewed into the side-front seams. A standing collar oloses invisibly with hooks and eyes at one side, where the chinchilla cape is also fastened, as tho toilet can be worn without it If desired. The cape also has a high standing collar, and the seam where it is joined to the cape proper is hidden with a trimming of green and gray velvet ribbons, which form a rosette at the baok. The belt around the waist, too, is made of these ribbons. The sleeves are of velvet, have but one seam, and are tacked to the lining here and there to form ttny puffs. ‘ • Are we going to swallow the 1830 head dresses with the other modes of that period? Or rather are they going to swallow us? Are we willing to turn our back hair into the semblance of a cannon shooting off a sheaf of wheat, or a horn of plenty in a state of eruption? While things shoot out the baok, shall wo balance watters by an eruption in the other direction that points heavenward at our brow? To sustain the weight of these to sheaves of wheat we will put a band about our head above which the back explosion will take place, and which shall bold the front one steady. Below the band in front we will have a couple of looks and part them at the brow, and let them meander down over the ears and so under the band, without which our head would certainly fly to pieces. The back of our 1830 gown is cut straight across from shoulder to shoulder, showing the round of the two well over their slope to the arms. The epaulets are full and join the edge turned back from the neck. Epaulets and edge, too, are finished off with a castellated cutting, like the tops of

old forts and castles. Another 1830 style will dictate that you gather all the hair together, except the front locks, which are to be tortured in another way, at the crown of the head, just where the head rounds toward the baok. You will wind its thickness around and around with a string and then hide the string by a metal band. The length oi the hair you will then irritate into a lot of quivering curls, which you will allow to riotously boil over the edge of the metal band. You will further exaggerate their exuberance by sticking some very big ornamental pins through their masses, and erecting about the top oi the band a flaring ft nee of pearls. Now you comb down the front locks over the brow. You set another fence, very high, right or. ‘xi»of your head, like a crown. From fßder the edge of this fence the front oome. They are parted at the middle of the forehead, and then each is turned under in a sort of loop, the ends reaching over the ear, and waving off beautifully behind the ear and into a lovely little cr.nkled lock down the cheek. Copyright. 1838.

WHITE FLANNEL NEGLIGE.

A CAPE FOB INDOORS

A SPRING COAT.

A vISITING TOILET.