Democratic Sentinel, Volume 17, Number 6, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 24 February 1893 — WHAT SOCIETY WEARS. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

WHAT SOCIETY WEARS.

CRISP FASHION LETTER FROM THE METROPOLIS. A Well-Informed Correspondent Tells of the Newest Costumes, New Ideas, a Nobby Walking Suit, an Kmbrolderod Theater Wrap, and a Love of an Empire Down. Modes for the Month. I’ew York oorrespondenoe:

OULD anything be more suitable for brisk outdoor walking than the costume pictured in the Initial illustration? It has an open cloak and a vest of velvet. Thewaterial is of wool in a grayblue tint. The vest is of grayblue velvet and the olosk of the same color, but of lighter cloth and trimmed with camel’s hair braid. The skirt is taken in the width, so that no seam is needed except in the back, which le gored so that it looks like any other skirt. In front it needs

some small pleats; in the back the folds tarn toward the center. The skirt is lined with silk or satin and has a balayeuse. The waist is plain, and may be worn with or without the velvet vest. The long jacket can also have a vest which Is buttoned to It directly. If the waist is worn without the vest, a velvet belt is used which crosses at the back. The dress material has no seam in front except (he darts, and fastens at the shoulders, arm-hole, and under the arm, with very small hooks. If you do not want to out the material the front of the bodice can he pleated. The sleeves are Russian In lorm, with deep cuffs. The velvet vest is low cut iu front and in the back, as shown in the picture, and Is kept in position by whalebones. It reaches only to the skirt band and hooks In front, carrying the side point to be hooked at the side of the belt. The skirt of the cloak crosses in the back by an added fold. In the front It is box pleated and sewed at the waist, so as to fall loosely. The jacket Is silklined and has a little cape, which Is

trimmed with braid. The sleeves are also trimmed with braid. It seems a pity to begin to use organdies and silk muslins till summer c omes In, but they are so pretty that It is hard not to. Besides they give an effect of vogue to the somewhat passe gowns of the season, at this time when one hardly wants to buy entirely new outfits. A very pretty Nile green silk that had grown a little soiled about the edge of the skirt, and marked about the arms as a party dress, was brightened into charming freshnese by a dbep luffie of silk organdie set in festoons at the foot of the skirt. The top of the rufße was headed by three rows of ribbon, pink, rich green and gold, these being the colors in the organdie. The ribbons were jeweled with amber, black jet and emerald beads. The upper part of the bodice was covered with the organdie, making a sort or yoke outlined by a band of the pink ribbon that crossed the breast and passed to the back under the arms. Big ruffles of the organdie fell over the shoulders. The dress was certainly a lovelier one than ever it hai been when first made. Another afternoon gown of rose silk Had the entire skirt covered with a delicate silk muslin, all misty with a combination of lilac cream and pink design of flowers. At the foot of the skirt there was a ruffle in rosetted folds, the sleeves of silk were taken out entirely and muslin ones substituted. These were full at the shoulders and extended to below tne elbows. A feather fan in cream and lilac hung by a pink ribbon from the waist. Still, it

is almost a pity not to wait till summer with its garden parties and soft warm moonlight! But that is the way with us now! Green peas and violets at Christmas, and organdies in February! Next we will have ice boating and fur right here in June! Both of the costumes described are sketched herewith. The next picture shows an embroidered theater wrap. The fur plastron which comes down to a point in front Is surrounded by a double-frilled collar, which fastens in front. Beneath the plas ron the long front breadths begin. These are fastened on with large safety-hooks and held In position in f ont by a very broad girdle that Is sewn on one side and hooked op. the other. This belt or band is very stiffly lined and is adorned with bead work. It is straight on the lower edge and at the top Is cone-shaped. The whole of the front breadths, lengthwise and around the edge, are bordered with fur. They are mae’e of straight material and are slightly gffsbered in at the top under the yolfg and collar. Wi ere ibey Jo n the backtireadths they a:e very much sloped, boas to fit the

figure in the fashion of an ordinary long oloak. Either changeable velvet or silk can be used as lining; for our model brown velvet with largo yellow brocaded flowers on it was used. The double collar was of yellow velvet and so was the girdle, which was embroidered with brown leads. With the wrap was wom a very small turbanshaped oap of yellow velvet, trimmed with yellow ostrich plumes and an antique buckle. Another outer garment for evening wear is presented in the next picture. It is an opera cape with double velvet collar. The cape is made of striped mauve and pink lined with woolen material, which serves instead of the ordinary silken lining, and is also warmer. The raauvo strlpo of the lower part of this opera cloak merges into a greenish shade, and the pink stripes have nartow diagonal lines which give the Impression of being raised or embossed. The velvet collar Is cut round, so that it stands out on the shoulders, and is but little gathered at the neck. The lining of the changeable velvet collar must be cut out ttret and properly fitted. It Is alike back and front, and Is sewn in at the same time with the long cape. The Empire gown, when modified by the train and petticoat effect, admits much elaboration, as in the example

pictured. The petticoat part may have at the foot a border as oostlv and elegant as you like. It may be iace, knot* of ribbon, flowers, or rich beading. The material may be of the richest, and may either match or contrast with the train. The train Is of heavy stuff and, of course, lined with rich material, because it Is entirely loose from the petticoat. Its edge may be embroidered heavily with rioh Jeweling and beading. Tho lining may contrast with the outßlde. About the waist, the waist, of course, being close under the arm, passes a bodice girdle of the material of the train. The bodice should be so heavily embroidered that It seems merely n Persian-like band of rich needle work. The big puffed sleeves, of the material of tho train are furnished at the edge with a narrower band of the same embroidery. This must not be applique embroidery, and It should be of real metal thread, and of jewels as costly as you please, or can afford. If you fancy the Empire style suits only the simpler materials, you are making a big mistake. One thing may be said for the Empire: Maybe a woman may took a bit queer standing, but seated she can hardly help being a picture. If she will only hold her head well and try to do justice to her gown, the rest of her will be all rlgh*. The woman with a very long waist held In by a fearfully tight corset Is not only miserable when she is seated, but she looks it, and she can neither sit down nor get up gracefully. The Empireclad girl should be able to do both, II she is not dressed all wrong beneath the gown. Be careful In selecting your purples,

especially in cloth. Many purplee seem to be an ugly brown at night. The right purple should only take a richer and deeper tone by gas light. Black In combination with purple brings out the latter color, by day as well as by night, into added brilliancy. Purple seems to suggest furs and velvet and richness, It Is by all means a color for winter and cold weather. Also remember that the revived “royal purple” does not shade off into lighter colors and lavender as did our violet of a season or so ago. Purple is essentially a color by Itself, and menres itself into no other color. It permits near It only such other shades as will lend themselves to its own regality. Just remember that when you contemplate putting a purple veil over your rosy checks and don't do It. As for green veils, what can one say? The woman who will wear one is beyond advioe. As well leave her to her own destruction, and what is worse, let her disturb every one who looks at her. By the way, the purple we find in old brocades makes the modem purple seem harsh and garish. The modem purple has a ston e-gray ness of tone; the old purple has a soft, almost rosy shade. Let this be a word to the wise. Copyright. 18M.

FESTOONED WITH ORGANDIES.

EMBROIDERED THEATER WRAPS.

CAPE WITH DOUBLE COLLAR.

MODIFIED EMPIRE GOWN.