Democratic Sentinel, Volume 17, Number 5, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 17 February 1893 — Page 5

TO REVISE THE TARIFF

THE TARIFF OF 18-46 SHOULD BE THE BASIS. Hon. William M. Springer Gives Some Valuable Suggestions- -The Complicated Situation Into Which Reciprocity Dickers and Sugar Bounties Have Led lit ' How It Can Be Done. In the North American Review for February, the Hon. William MSpringer, Chairman of the House Ways and Means Committee, gives some valuable suggestions as to how to revise the tariff. Hq thinks that the principles which governed the construction of the Walker tariff of 1846 should furnish the basis upon which the tariff may now be revised; because “a measure based upon such principles has already stood the test of time:” and because “the principles upon which it is founded are those which have received the sanction of the Democratic party in the past, and, if adhered to in the future, will make the pathway to tariff revision easy and the remedy for existing evils complete.” He quotes the following extract from,Walker’s report to show what the principles were: “In suggesting improvements in the revenue laws, the following principles have been adopted: “1. That no more money should be collected than is necessary for the wants of the government economically administered. “2. That no dutyshould be imposed -on any article above the lowest rate which will yield the largest amount of revenue.

“3. That, below such rate, discrimination may be made, descending in the scale of duties; or, for imperative reasons, the article may be placed in the list of those free from all duty. “4. That the maximum revenue duty should be imposed on luxuries. "5. That all maximurus, and all specific duties, should be abolished, and ad valorem duties substituted in their place—care being taken to guard against fraudulent invoices and un-der-valuation, and to assess the duty upon the actual market value. “6. That the duty should be so imposed as to operate as equally as possible throughout the Union, discriminating neither for nor against any class .or section.” Mr. Springer then shows that “the substance of these propositions has been iterated and reiterated in Democratic platforms and conventions from that time to the present.” He quotes statistics which show that from 1850 to 1860, under the low tariffs of 1846 and 1857, population increased 50 per cent., imports 199, exports 254, miles of railroad 512, manufacturing establishments from 123,000 in 1850 to 140,433 in 1860; capital employed in manufactures, 87 per cent. “But the most important, of all the propositions,” says Mr. Springer, “is that all specific duties should be abolished and ad valorem duties substituted in their place.” This rule was adhered to in the Walker tariff, which does not oontain one item which imposed a specific duty, or a duty levied upon the pound or quantity, but the duty was always imposed upon the article according to its value. This is the distinctive feature of the Walker tariff,as compared with all other tariff laws passed in this country. “In view of the early revision of the tariff laws of this country, special consideration should be given to the fifth proposition laid down by Mr. Walker, namely, that all specific duties should be abolished and ad valorem duties substituted in place. “Mr. Walker, in his report to Congress in 1845, demonstrated clearly that the operation of specific duties discriminates against the poor and in favor of the rich. He said that, if direct taxes were made specific, they would be intolerable. ‘Thus,’ said he, ‘if an annual tax of S3O was assessed on all houses, without respect to their actual value, making the owner of the humble tenement or cabin pay a tax of S3O, and the owner of a costly mansion a tax of but S3O on their respective houses, it would differ only in degree, but not in principle, from the same -unvarying spe-' eifle duty on cheap as on fine articles.’ He held that, if any discrimination should be made, it should be the reverse of the specific duty. He further 6aid: ‘The tax upon the actual value is the most equal and can only be accomplished by ad valorem duties.’ “The truth of these statements is clearly demonstrated by reference to some of the compound ad valorem and specific duties contained in the McKinley act.”

Mr. Springer then shows. that under the McKinley act woolen shawls imported in 1892 paid an average duty of 138.63 per cent., while champagnes paid but 57.29 per cent. “Thus,” he says, “by the device of specific duties, as embraced in the McKinley act, champagne, the greatest of luxuries, pays less than half the rate, according to its value, which is imposed upon the cheap woolen shawls which the poor women of the country must wear to protect them from the chilling blasts of winter. “No such rates as these could have ever been passed in a tariff bill which provided upon its face for ad valorem rates. They are only possible by a combination of ad valorem and specific duties, or by specific duties alone. The actual amount of the tax as compared with the value of the article upon which it is placed, is concealed. The McKinley act is a combination of such cunningly devised rates. To. construct a bill of that kind requires extraordinary skill and utter disregard of all principles of justice and even of common honesty. The McKinley act contains 32,000 words; the Walker act contained less than 6.000 words. The injustice and inequalities of the McKinley act are apparent at a glance, when the rates are applied to actual importations. ”

McKinley's Foreige Competitor.

Whom the gods wish to destroy they first make mad. Canadian protectionists, not to be outdone by their friends in the United States, have placed upon their statute books a measure that almost rivals in absurd features our own McKinley bill, which taxes the ends of cables which protrude on our soil, chickens hatched a few feet across our t order line by careless hens that do not take the trouble to distinguish between

their own tind foreign countries, and calves dropped in foreign territory by 6tray cows. Considering the size and population of their country, add its greater dependence upon foreign countries, Canada has duties that, judged by our own standard, are befitting our next door neighbor. Its administrative features, although not so ridiculous as those of the McKinley bill, yet contain much dry humor. Mr. Louis F. Post is one of the lecturers of the National Single-Tax Lecture Bureau. His single-tax friends in Canada had arranged a series of meetings for him there, and he was on his way to fulfill engagements when the Canadian customs officers stopped him. He had with him to illustrate his lectures a few yards of cloth containing diagrams, consisting of different colored lines, squares, and circles. The officers came to the conclusion that these diagrams were paintiDgs or drawings, and that the artists of Canada would be left unprotected from the pauper labor of the United States if a duty were uot collected on the diagrams. Mr. Post paid the duty, and will have one object lesson for the Canadians not down in his canvass.

Hawaiian Annxation.

In the year 1875 a treaty of reciprocity, so called, was made between the United States and his Majesty the King of the Hawaiian Islands, the principal feature of which was the admission of Hawaiian sugar free of duty to this country. As the islands could not produce more than one tenth of the sugar imported by us, the remission of the duty to them exclusively was equivalent to a bounty of two cents per pound on all they could produce. The sugar industry became very flourishing and passed into the hands of a few rich people in San Francisco. They managed to send us from 200,000,000 to 250,000,000 pounds per year. In 1889 our importations from Hawaii were 243,000,000 pounds. The bounty to the producers for that year was nearly $5,000,000. There was constant complaint among the people of the Pacific coast during all this time that they got their sugar no cheaper than before, but that on the contrary they were required to pay the market price of the East plus the freight charges for all that they used. This was not the only complaint. The Eastern refiners (before the days of the Sugar Trust) alleged, and no doubt, truly, that Mr. Spreckels was enabled to lay down sugars in the Mississippi Valley in unfair competition with them, since he got his raw sugar at 2 cents per pound less than they were required to pay. All this was quiet natural. Mr. Sprockets was not in the sugar business for the fun of the thing. If the Government had created a situation by which he could make a lot of money, he would have been a fool not to avail himself of it. It would be useless now to discuss the wisdom or unwisdom of the Treaty of 1875. Other considerations than those of sugar-planting entered into it. For better or for worse, the treaty ran along until the McKinley tariff was passed. The repeal of the duties on raw sugar put the Hawaiian Islands once more on the same footing as other foreign countries. Their bounty was cut off. To stop a regular income of four to five millions of dollars from a little group of islands, or rather from a small coterie in that group, is a serious matter. Something was sure to happen in consequence, and something has happened. There has been a “revolution.” The “Queen of the Sandwich Islands” has been overthrown. Tyranny is in the dust. The people (about 50,000 natives and 3,000 Americans and Europeans)' have asserted the sacred right of self-government. There are nearly as many Chinese coolies, called “contract laborers,” on the islands as there are of the native Hawaiian stock. Of course these have had nothing to do with the revolution, nor, for that matter, have the natives. The upheaval is in the American quarter altogether. It is a revolution on a strictly cash basis. When the McKinley tariff put raw sugar on the free-trade list it gave a i o inty of two cents per pound to the p.oducers of sugar in the United States. This was sufficient to revolutionize the Hawaiian Islands any day. The sugar-planters want that bounty. They have a delegation, or an embassy, or whatever it may be called, en routs to Washington City now to place the sovereignty of the kingdom at our disposal and the sugar bounty at their disposal. It is as plainly a private speculation as was the attempted annexation of Santo Domingo during Grant’s administration. Although the affair has come about suddenly, it is not likely to be disposed of suddenly. Certain belated patriots, whose prime has been passed in the nation’s callow period, are for asserting Manifest Destiny and the Monroe Doctrine and showing up our new navy, aDd making the American eagle scream. This is to be expected, of course, but the nation ought to be now beyond the perils of infancy, and really is so unless cast unexpectedly into a predicament from which there is no easy escape. Happily the annexation of foreign territory, as was shown in the cases of San Domingo and St. Thomas, requires time and gives abundant opportunity for reflection. It would be as presumptuous to pronounce hasty judgment agaiDSt annexation as for it, and we are far from saying that the proposal ought not to be entertained. We insist, however, that the project is prima facie a private speculation on the part of a few sugar-planters who have found their bounty suddenly cut off and who want to have it renewed. Uncle Sam has enough to do taking care of his own pensioners, without running over seas in search of new ones. Moreover, the chances are that we shall stop paying sugar bounties to our own people before any treaty of annexation can secure a two-thirds majority of the Senate.

A Protectionist Dilemma.

A protection and subsidy organ of this city finds itself occasionally at odds with one or the other of its tenets. For example, it recently undertook, in the interest of sub sidies, to show that “we export finished products for sale beneath the very shadow of England’s free-trade factories.” It printed a table which shows that

during the ten months ending Oct. 31 a number of our protected articles had been exported to England, some for consumption and some for reexportation to South America. The value of these exportations aggregated nearly $14,000,000. The American manufacturers of the articles are so afraid of English and other foreign competition in our own markets that they have purchased heavy protective duties of the Republican party. And yet they can compete with the Englishmen at home, where the tax is against them to the amount of the freight charges at least. If they can undersell Englishmen in England and also in South America after paying freight from New York to Liverpool aud again from Liverpool to South American ports, why do they need protection at home? The organ ought to drop one of its tenets. If it proves that our manufacturers can compete with foreigners in foreign countries, it shows that we can maintain an ocean-carrying trade, but it also proves not only that the protection war on commerce is hurtful to the manufacturers, hut that our manufac urers do not need protection at all.—New York World.

What Free Wool Will Do.

Mr. Edward D. Page, of Faulkner, Page & Co., a firm as largely interested in domestic woolen manufacturing as any mercantile house in the United States, begins, in the American Wool and Cotton Reported of January 19th, a series of articles on the subject of woolen goods and tariff revision. He presupposes that the manufacturers will soon have absolutely free wool and in general free raw materials. He says that: “The addition to our supplies of perhaps 400 varieties of raw stock, virtually prohibited from our market for many years, introduces into the condition of manufacture a new and serious educational problem. I fear that many manufacturers do not fully realize even now how much improvement and economy is to be accomplished by making their goods from a mixture of the stocks most exactly suited to the qualities the goods are to possess, instead of from the makeshifts which our meager market has hitherto afforded. I have been shown, in an English manufacturer’s wool-house, a mixture or blend of no less than fourteen distinct and different varieties of wool, from which is made a simple woolen fabric, in which, at home, no more than two or three qualities are used. Each of these fourteen varieties are found to lend some desirable peculiarity to the fabric, perceptible only in the finished piece, or else to economize its cost; and I was told that the blend used has been substantially the same for nearly thirty years. The goods manufactured from it were perceptibly superior in selling qualities to our own, and were produced at less cost for wool than would be warranted by the difference between the American and foreign quotations for similar grades.” Yet he says: “It is the opinion of many observers that no change that is likely to occur will In the long run affect the wool and woolen industries more unfavorably than have the tariffs of 1864 to 1890.” • Mr. Page thus enumerates several elements of cost of manufacture in which our manufacturers are at a disadvantage as compared with foreign manufacturers. These include, as mentioned above, lack of experience in blending all kinds of wools, higher costs of buildings, and higher rates of interest. As to the element of labor cost he says:

“It will be observed that I have not enumerated a difference in labor cost as one of the disadvantages under which American manufacturers suffer. In this respect lam disposed to agree with the opinion of eminent manufacturers when fresh from an actual experience of competition with the so-called ‘paupor labor of abroad,’ and I quote from the Bulletin of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers, Yol. 1., p. 45 (1866): American manufacturers admit that it is not so much the low rate of wages in England against which they have to contend as the low rates of interest, which permit the control of large capital and the most advantageous use of machinery. It is not that there may not be special instances where labor of certain kinds is, perhaps, extravagantly paid in our mills, but I have observed that, generally speaking: “1. The highest paid labor is the cheapest. “2. Nations that have the lowest paid labor are forced, as a rule, to protect themselves against those who pay higher wages.

“3. Higher paid labor, being the most intelligent, protects its wages against the competition of less intelligent and less highly paid labor by superior inventiveness and superior ability in handling machinery. “It is perhaps unfortunate that no unbiased or scientific comparison of American with foreign labor-efficien-cy has ever been made; but in unprotected industries we seem to be as well able to compete now with the foreigner as we could expect; and our experience under the revenue tariff 1857-1861 was that we could compete, notwithstanding a similar difference in wages to that which now prevails. I have very little question but after our industries have adjusted themselves to new conditions, the superior skill and intelligence of American manufacturers and workmen will maintain the supremacy of our industries in the future as it has in the past. “So far as the rate of wages is concerned it is dependent upon the relations existing between the amount of work to be done and the number of workmen qualified to do it If the new tariff gives more work and the number of workmen does not increase, it will assuredly raise wages.” Such articles are eminently sound and practical. They may give but little assistance to the new administration, but they will inculcate a broad and liberal spirit among the manufacturers themselves, that will greatly hasten that readjustment to new conditions which *vill not only insure success but will soon make us the greatest manufacturers, as we are, already, the greatest consumers of woolens.

FASHION'S LATE FADS.

SOME NEW THINGS FOR WOMEN TO WEAR. A Pretty Ball Dress —How Sleeve Protector* Should Be Worn — Handsome Reception Costume— Use Feathers Instead of Crinoline In Your Sleeves. Styles of the Season. New York correspondence:

O DIC E S properly have no wrong side. I That is, the bones 'and all that are Dut between the material and the lining, which is of silk or satin, of a contrasting color to the outside, so that the dress is as pretty as can be when it hangs over a chair while my lady changes or as It Is laid out ready for her to get into. Sleeve protec to. s,

those dreadful th'ngs, are basted Into the corset cover armhole. They change as often as my lady changes her corset cover and are washed as often M the covers are, of course. The 014 Mttidy custom of having protectors fastened into a diess-sleeve, staying there as long as the dress is worn, is all done away. If yi udo not wear t orset covers, and do not want to, then you have your protectors slipped into a tine linen bag, made just to lit, which has little ribbons at each end. There are ribbons in the armholes of your dress, and the protector is tied in and is not put away in the dress when the dress is taken off, but are untied and taken out. The best protector is a heavy odorless rubber. The first illustration shows the back view of a pretty ball dress, and a costume with a shawl blouse. The first is of filmy material, tulle or gauze, with an underdress of silk or satin both for the skirt and bodice. The skirt of this frock is gathered in at the waist and is trimmed with a tulle ruche about the neck and bottom of the skirt, over which parses a garland of roses of a delicate shade, with buds and leaves complete, and which on one side pass half way up the skirt. The waist is covered with tulle very full, and at tho back has a very wide sash, which fastens under a large bow. Bands of roses form the braces, and both the waist-band and the sash are made of satin. Turning to the right-hand figure, there is a shawl blouse made of white silk crepe, with Valenciennes insertion. The perfectly plain skirt displays the same insertion

BALL DRESS AND SHAWL BLOUSE.

at regular Intervals, which may be regulated according to taste. There is a high Medici collar. The sleeves are very large and puffed; below the elbow there is a long cuff, which is stltohed in by a herring-bone stitch. The waist passes underneath the skirt, and the sleeves are provided inside with epaulets of stiff muslin in order to keep them upright on the shoulders. Two triple folds fasten the back of the collar to the waist. A reception costume for a middle-aced lady is next pictured. It la of satin trimmed either with plush or marabout The belt should be cut wide or narrow, according to the figure of the wearer. The trimming for the waist can be real or imitation lace. It falls from the ,neck in large folds, someth ng like a Zouave jacket, and may either hang loosely pr be fastened in under the belt. The prettiest cloaks for evening are those made to match the gown with which they are to be worn, the outside being of the same material as most of the gown, and the lining either the other material used in the rtresp or a shade that carries out the second color of the gown. For instance, a gown of green and white would show a cloak of either green to match, or white, lined with the other color. A pretty model is the military oape, coming to the knees and made lull. It can be still longer, like the old-time dominos to cover all over. Another model shows a yoke of tho material finished with a very lull ruffle edged with fur. The rest of the cloak falls full from under this ruffle, and is of the second coior and material. It is also edged with the fur. Another lovely cloak Is in yellow velvet and white brocade. The yoke and lining are of the yellow velvet; the rest

KOVEL ZOUAVE EFFECT.

of the white brocade. The fur is sable, but the model can be followed out much less expensively and almost as charm- | ingly. A cloak for summer or winter wear is most unique. The lining is of very rich silks back velvet, and the yoke of the same. From the yoke hangs almost priceless lace. Of course, through the lace the silk back of the lining of the cloak shows. We are not all so rich as that, but ir you have such an heirloom as a beautiful old lace

shawl, there Is a use for it, and the rest of the expense can be eluded by lining the velvet with silk. To tell the truth, If the silk is a perfect match no one will know. Still no one could fail to know what it was that Bhowed through in the cloak I saw. It was the silk back of the velvet inside the cloak. The third picture is of a handsome house dress in cloth and plaid silk. The skirt is opened at the left side to admit a panel of the silk. Three large buttons are placed where the skirt is joined, just above the panel. There is a Zouave jacket bordered with passementer.e. Feathers and not stiffening is what you should put in your sleeves to make them stand out stiff and crisp. Feathers are light and hold their place and resume the r place if they are crushed. If you stiffen with crinoline your gown is only new and fresh-looking the first few times you wear it. The newness of a gown lies almost altogether in the sleeves. We hear lots said against the great sleeves, but don’t you join in it Instead, gratefully take advantage of the fashion, and remember chat from the train that is too worn and old for any use you can get at least a pair of enormous sleeves and perhaps a bertha ruffle to go over the shoulders and to a point in front. Mere soraps of brocade, left overs and bits will do for a top

HANDSOME HOUSE DRESS.

puff on the sleeves, or oven a ruse to hang over the top of the under puff of plain goods, and so add to the riohness of the whole—surely a muoh more artistic use of goods and bits than when we used to cut up stuff to make little bands for collar and cuffs, and, perhaps, a belt. Now that the elegance of ,a gown depends nearly all upon the sleeves,you can with very little work secure an effect of elegance. You can bead or paint enough for sleeves, cr stripe the top puff with ribbon, or bind the top of the two puffs or the one big one with strips of line stuff, ribbon-like, only loosely. It is worth while to get enough gold lace or net of good quality, so it will not tarnish, to make two big covers for the puffs. With these slipped over the sleeves of your white brocade, shortwaisted bodice, and a gold girdle, you make another dress out of your white silk gown. Or, thus you may make the white brocade bodice do for two dresses—the one with a heavy brocade skirt, perhaps beaded with gold, with which, of oourse, you would wear the bodice fixed with the gold sleeves; the other just a very full soft skirt of either India silk or crepe, and this without the gold over tho sleeves. You see the two gowns would be of so different a character that no one would suspect your economy. Besides, remember how short a time, comparatively, tashions last, and how little after all you are able to show for the amount of money spent. Common wisdom dictates following the lashion with as little outlay as possible. Thus it Is wise now to take up the Empire, because in this field we can use up the materials of our out-of-fashion dresses. After the wear is had from those materials it will do to take up crinolines. We would by then have to get new stuff anyhow, and at least the crinoline style will give us glenty of goods, and, if we are wise and have learned not to be too proud

ANOTHER INDOOR GOWN

■we will be well equipped for remodeling iorthe next change. The last illustration shows another house dress of light gray bengallne, with corselet belt of satin ribbon, knotted behind and falling in long ends. There are deep cuffs and a sort of yoke of point d’lrlande guipure. The skirt has no train, but Is slightly longer at the back than at the front. The lace which fails over the front and back Is draped to cover nearly all the shoulder seam. Ihe corselet is made on whalebones; these bones occupy the place of the waist seams. For this purpose one is placed in the middle of the front, ono between the darts, and one on the under arm seam: the remainder of the sash being knotted at the back does hot require to be boned. The material for the sleeve is cut very full and gathered on to the lining, so that it stands up at the lop in two little horns. First, find the middle of the material, and the middle of the tight-fitting lining, and make a notch on eaoh. Then proceed to gather the material in the usual way, beginning about two inches tTom the bend of the arm, and stopping about two Inches from the notch in the material. Fasten the gathers on the lining, stopping an inch from the lining notch. Then recommence to gather two inches from the other side of the material notch, thus leaving four inches plain In the center of the material. Fix these gathers to the lining also, leaving an inch on this side of the lining not 3b plain. Then take the material which is loose at the top, and drawing it well ud from the sleeve, form the two little horns on the plain part of the lining, makiDg them stand out we 1 from the contour of the sleeve. This way of draping the sleeve is quite new and gives an air of originality to ihe dress. The military collar to which the lace is attached fastens on the shoulder. Copyright, lffcw. Astronomt.— Aristarchus of Samos and Hipparchus of Nieea, the former living in the third century B. C. and the latter in the second, laid the foundation of European astronomy.

FOR THE LADIES.

YOU CAN MAKE A MCE*. Fanciful muffs of velvet to match th* dress are in great vogue and furnish th* last ornamental touch to the reception toilet. These also the milliner' will furnish with the hat or the dressmaker with the gown, or whoever has the knack to fabricate, say a handkerchief oasiy should be able to make one of them. A, strip of velvet, silk lined and wadded, shirred on each edge if you like; one end pointed; rolled up with the poiuted end outside and caught down with a bunch of flowers or a bow of lace and ribbon.— fSt. Louis Republic. SAGGERS FOR WOMEN. A prominent jeweller says that he sells a number of daggers annually to women. These are not ornaments, but serious weapous. They are just large enough to slip easily inside a woman’s gown. Some women have these made to order, when they are lavishly adorned and incrusted with precious stones. They arc frequently carried in travelling, when they are intended as weapons of defense. They are preferred to revolvers, which are likely to go off summarily and in tho wrong direction.—[New York World.

WHAT EUROPEAN QUEENS WEAK. It has truly been said, and often, that simplicity in dress is true elegance. The sovereign ladies of Europe, though otherwise they do not seem to have any ambition to bo leaders of fashion, at all events “lead" this movement. The Queen of Spain is always quietly dressed; Queon Margaret of Italy, though very artistically ifud elegantly dressed, never attracts attention by any extravagances of her toilet, and tho Empress of Germany is much more interested in the frocks and gowns of her babies than in her own wardrobe. At the Danish court, where everything is of a patriarchal simplicity, no lady wears anything but the simplest costumes, and in Holland and Belgium it is the same.—[Chicago Herald.

A BOOM FOR BRUNETTES. The brunette type is becoming more numerous in England and on tho continent generally. Mr. Gladstone, who observes most things, said some years ago that light-haired people were far loss numerous than in his youth. This statement was borne out by the results of the statistical inquiry undertaken by Dr, goddoe. who examined 720 women, and found that 309 were brunettes and 357 blondes. Carrying this inquiry a step farther, I)r. Boddoo learned that 78.5 per cent of the brunettes had husbands, while only sixty-eight per cent qf the blondes were married. From this it appears that in England a brunette has ten chances of being wedded to tho nine chances of the blonde; and Dr. Beddoo went on to argue that “the English are becoming darker because the men persist in selecting the dark-haired women as wives." The same thing is happening in Germany, in France, in Switzerland, and elsewhere on the continent.—-[New Orleans Picayune.

STYLISH COIFFURES. The stylos and fashions of hair dressing hnve ulterod completely in the last few months. The nair falls lower and lower uutil it rests upon the nape of the neck in a loose knot of the shape of a figure eight. Mrs. Langtry is responsible for this fashion, and it oertainly suits her to perfection. Another method is to copy the old-fashioned chignons though, providentially, they are copied iu a modified form. Fringes are disappearing rapidly—a tiny curl or two and the remainder of tho front hair is waved and brushed back, or the fringe is parted, waved and curled and almost done away with. Every kind of hair waver has been iu vented, for there is a great return to the smooth, rippling locks so often prated of by our mothers and grandmothers. The touzled, furze-bush style of head is a thing of the past; may it remain in obllviou. Smooth coils and plaits are worn;the sausage roll of a previous day is utterly inadmissible. Hair nets have emerged after years of seclusion. and a fashionable head is as carefully spread with netting os a strawberry bed in July.—[New York World.

VEILING. Cronstadt veiling has a wide diamond shaped mesh strewn sparsely witli medium sized dots. New souffle netts are embroidered with small jet or steel beads. Odessa nett is a rather coarse Itussianstyle, rather too thick to be very becoming. Velours Itusse is a grenadine veiling with rather wide apart stripes, simulating cords. Bordered veilings in black and colors with u fine real lace mesh strewn with small flowers or dots are now new, but will be extensively used. Columbian veiling shows a rather fine mesh with a bordered pattern in small raised dots or jet, which runs around the edge of the veil. The most fashionable veiling is the fishnet, with raised chenille dots either in single or grouped dots. The mesh is in many Instances almost as fine as a cobweb, so that it scarcely shows on the face. Fine tulle, with composition dots in imitation of Jet, are in vogue, and also nett, embroidered with extremely fine jet beads. The jetted veilings are injurious to the eyes. There is an infinite variety in colored veilings, which come in colors to match the suits. Fancy veilings are in red, blue, etc., worked in tinsel figures or dots. Chiffon veiling is new, and is usually seen in white and pale colors; it is softening and becoming to the face and is superseding grenadine.—[St. Louis Republic.

BIIE BOUGHT ODD SHOES. “Have you any second-hand shoes?” inquired a young lady at a Louisville shoe store. ‘.‘We don’t sell second-hand shoes, miss, ” said the clerk, shortly. “No, of course not. I didn’t want to buy them, but if you happened to have any that had been left here by persons buying new ones, you know,” she suggested, mysteriously. “Oh, certainly. Here are a pair of buttoned boots—kid—but quite worn out. Would they do?” “What number are they?” “Twos—small twos at that. And here is one bronze slipper—thirteen, misses’ size.” “But thirteen is an unlucky number,” she said, anxiously. “Not in shoes, miss; and here is a No. I—not badly worn.” “I will take them all. Thank you so much,” and she proffered the clerk payment for the refused shoes. “These is no charge, ” he said, as he handed them to her m a neat package.

* I suppose you want them for a hanging baskets" “Mercy, no! My sister is to be monied this evening and we want them to tfannr after the carriage. Our own areal I new, and it must be an old shoe always to bring luck." “I see,” said the clerk, and hegtnral dreamily after her retreating form, watering in an emphatic monotone: “And the family shoes range from sixes to eights—l see.”—[Boston Gazette. FASHION NOTES. Plain, close-fitting sleeves are the exception and not the rule. New wraps have enormous sleeves, some of them with cuffs just large enough to pass the hand through. Middle-aged Indies are wearing dresse* of maroon, decp-wine-color and ruby velvet, with black lacc and jet. A very handsome dress of Mack velvet has the front and a long wide sash of heliotrope satin. Iridescent materials nro popular, and are made up with velvet or satin in plaits color.

Cardinal velvet and jet is a popular combination for dressy women of ifi ages. Palo blue, lavender, and scarlet Tails are worn, but as a general thing they are not becoming. Emerald green and very delicate Ni* is a very successful combination in mning dresses. White alpaca is popular for tea gowns and house dresses this season, with on underlining of silk. Those who do not wish to wear silk petticoats, and yet desire black ones*, may have them made of black n)|taca. It is not unusual to see lace ami for on the same bonnet, as lace on winter hats is one of tho features of the season. Suede gloves arc still first favorites for evening wear, though kid. is now inure worn iu the street. Full sleeves, collar, nod broad revere of shaded velvet, are used by the bes* dressmakers for freshening up a black silk gown. Most of the drosses that are now being made liuve no darts at the top of the skirt, the fullness being gathered into the waist-band.

Handkerchiefs of pate pink, lavender, green, or yellow chiffon, hemstitched, and finished with a very narrow borderiug of black lace, are shown. All mannor of odd little wnists, to be worn with the same plain skirt of serviisuable black silk, will bo of groat help iin producing a ploasant variety in tins wardrobe. The bracelet glove lias a richly embroidered band that fits tightly nmuigl the wrist, and it is perfumed by. aiseensfc process, With the evor-to-be-noCecQ evolution, in fashions, sat in-faced fabrics arc ugain enjoying the greatest popularity, wfxkher in black or colors. An extremely stylish and elegant costume recently ordered is of tho finest white corduroy. It is without trimmings the soft white of the low-cut bodice showing against the delicate shoulder* of the wourcr.

Among the pretty and useful houses dresses for this season arc those matin of white French flannel. They are made with a long skirt, a long fitted basque and full sleeves and uro trimmed, with meltings and plaiting* of pale-tintedisilk-Contrasts in color arc the rule for wetting wear. It must not, however, be supposed that dresses of one shade ate' not worn. These are almost always affected by ladies who. have the wonderful gift of making something striking out of a single-ground matcriuL 'Black velvet dresses are fashionable both for old and young. The; aw <ta~ riehed by borders of brown umS Muck fur and a belt, collars, and cuffis embroidered in jet anil gold. A bonnet or toque may be trimmed with the sane combination. Tho long ribbons fancied on the facts of gowns seems to have transferred themselves to the fronts of long cloaks: they* are, however, much wider, and ace tied! iu front in very long loops, white the ends reach quite to the- edge of the akirt. In Paris the new skirts are stiffened around the bottom with steeL This seems to be the natural precursor of the crinoline; but though skirts are very, much fuller, and occasionally stiffened. with horse-hair to make thorn stand oat,, it is very doubtful whether hoops -wifiever really be the fashion again. The sweeping changes in the shape dt hats and bonnets have brought about u. new style of wearing the hair, termed “the bun”—a very descriptive name far the big round knot of hair which is soon to be the fashion. It is worn low, though not so low as tho Langtry knot, aud demands a larger amount of hair than Use majority of women possess.

First American Glass Works.

It was only a hundred and sixtMß years after the discovery of America that, the first gloss works were established in j the colonies. It was a modest venturi; in an industrial way, but one to whicii much importance is attached, since it was the starting point in that intenx&ixqg history which it is the purpose of the. present paper to outline; and still inonv because it was the first industry started* by Europeans on American soil. It thus heads a list which is to-day certainly as. long as humau needs and almost as long as human desires. It is u list which ism been nearly three hundred year: in the making. This was in the year IGOB. The pioneer glass-house was a part of the ac-' tivities at Jamestown. The sjnrit of the London Company was distinctly commercial. It had gold and silver in maud ns the ultimate goal, but, with a prudence characteristic of British enterprise, it had also an eye to nearer and smaller profits. The plan of colonial Touutlacture was meant to serve this end. On the second voyage of Captain Newport, eight Poles and Germans wore sent over for the express purpose of makings glass, pitch, tar, and soap ashes. The glasshouse was out in the woods, about m mile from Jamestown. It was a crude , affair, but it seems to have been the center of considerable activity, for whm the ship returned to England in this following year, “a trial of glass'' w*s among her cargo. The glass -was presumably exported in the form of common black bottles, for the state of therait in those days, and the limited time, vrtoid scarcely have allowed the evolution «£ anything more difficult of, manufacture. The progress of the glass industry m America has been far from constnxA. Ik has suffered severe and violent Seetu* tions, to be born again. But the mar total of the successes and vicissitudes has* - been the establishment of industry which, while it is the oldest, is also at the present time one of the most paouraßeg and most highly developed of au mm in-dustries.—-[Popular Science- Monthly.