Democratic Sentinel, Volume 17, Number 4, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 10 February 1893 — STYLES OF THE SEASON. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

STYLES OF THE SEASON.

A CHAPTER ON THE VERY LATEST MODES. Detailed Description of a Most Handsome Visiting Costume— Strong Protest Against the Introduction or Crinolines—Would Be an Abomination Now. Gotham Fashion Gossip. New York correspondence.

HE girl with tho Louis VI. cape on, its collav turned well up about, her pretty oars, and a tiny toque poised above, with one big rote nodding over it, dc es look uncommonly like a jardiniere,plant and all, inarching out to take tho air. As for her shadow as she comes out in the el eo trie light thess evening well, the whole ; thing looks as if the young man was taking a floral tribute, of

very big dimensions, to his girl, instead of taxing the dear girl herself to the theater. The girl who wears the terraced coat vies with the cape girl lor looking like something besides a girl. The terraced girl looks, in a high wind, for all the world like a Chinese pagoda on a rampage. But, be it understood, the Chinese pagoda on a rampage is a very lovely spectaelo, and we wish there were more of thorn. The initial illustration shows a visiting toilet of yellowish drab cloth, trimmed with a border of white lamb’s wool. Bands of white cloth could be substituted for the border If preferred. With the costume is worn a pink felt hat, the brim of which ie curved upward both back and front. The small, low crown 13 black, and a roll of black velvet surrounds it, forming a large wired bow at the back. This hat can also be made in any other combination of colors preferred. Do the creators of modes realize that when crinolines were worn years ago it was a different country from what it is now? There were only about eight lines of cars here in New York. Of those only the Fourth avenue and the Uni-

versity place lines were used by the “better class” and the swells. The charge was 10 cents a ride, and there was no crowding and jamming as there is these days. The Broadway stages were big then. There were stages on Fourth avenue, too, and they were big and roomy. Almost every house of any consequence had its own stable. Cabs were, in proportion, much more usecl than now, and carriages were regarded much more a necessity to the well-off thap they are now. Besides, there were fewer people. Nothing was crowded and jammed. Oh, my dears, consider a Fourth avenue car, with its daily jam on! And imagine it jammed w.th women crinolined and hooped! Remember our grandmothers did not have to take the cars to go shopping. They walked around the corner from Union Square and Washington Square and bought their buttons and tape. They didn’t come from 125th street on the L. Oh, pause, my children, and consider how different things are now, and don’t do it. The cloak seen in the next picture is of plum-colored cloth, with revers and pelerine in velvet. The collars and cuffs are of beaver, and ihe large felt hat is trimmed with feathers and velvet. The dress « n the right hand in the third picture is made of lead or mousegray striped rep goods, and ie Inman d with light fur, whieh is appl.ed in such a way os to give it the appearance of a zouave jacket. 'J he sleevos have »paulets trimmed with fur. The figure upon

the left wears a walking cloak made of wood-biown cloth. It is trimmed as 6hown with Persian lamb. The flowing sleeves have two narrow bands of the fur, and thrt e rows run around the 1 ottonrt of the skirt and a e continued up the front. The high standing coliar is fur lined. The right han 1 figure in the picture which shows t«o cloaks, wears a very stylish long cloak or mantle having a cape ornamented with a Roman border or passementerie. A rich lur col ar is worn with it. At the left you will see a stylish cape with a tight-fitting jacket beneath. Both cape and jacket are of red cloth and are made together. From the short upper cape hang long pendants of passementerie which end in ornaments of beads. Black feather trimming borders the bottom of the long cape and the Medici collar. The jacket is tight-fitting in frpnt, is made with darts and fastened with buttons. There iB a very charming jacket of the Empire shape at the left in the last illustration. It is of dark green cloth, trimmed with imitation njjarten fur, and has a full collar of green velvet shot with old gold. This jacket would look,

| however, equally well In dark blue, ! drab or the fashionable “tabao. ” The I hat should be in felt of the same shade as the jacket, and the feathers either a shade llgliteror black. Tho other figure is a very stylish jacket of gray cloth, double-breasted, with large buttons, and with the fashionable ii\ll sleeves. Simple as it looks, it needs to be very well made and to lit perfectly. For those desiring to know just how the visiting dress of the initial picture is made, I give here a detailed description of it. The fur trimming which borders the entire dress, is carried up the front and around the jacket. The <ostume is cut princess fashion and is ! closed with hooks and eyes for about half a yard under the waist, this fastening bens', however, entirely concealed by tho fur trimming. Beneath this fastening, that is. at the lower part of the dress, the front is sewn together. Tho front of the waist can be made either with or without darts. If the curve of the bust is very full, these darts mud; bo employed, being put towards the side as much as possible. If the lust is small or inclined to be flat, it is not

necessary to use them, and the material can be laid flat on the lining. If a dart be employed, it is advisable to make it only in the outside material, not in the lining, so that when well ironed out it Is as little visible as possible. The back breadths are very much sloped, so as to set In tight to the figure, in order to preserve the bell shape, but tho circumference should be at the t ottom from three to throe and one-quartor yards. The lining must be cut to the exaot size of tho upper material and must be sewn with the latter in such a manner as to lit line by line with it. The seams must be well dampened and very carefully ironed so that they show as little as possible. If you wish to avoid the middle seam at tho back, slope the back side breadths very much, as this gives the same effect as goring the back and sewing it up. The skirt has no second muslin lining and the seams are made before being laid on the lining. This obviates any unnecessary fullness and stiffness, and makes the seams less easily seen. The whalebones are covered with bonecasing and' must be sown In only above the waist band; underneath that they must be either cut off or left loose so as not to outline the form too closely. Tho doublo jacket stands out a little behind from the dress and has seams only under tho arm. Tho front breadths must be left considerably wider in order that they can be shirred in the manner shown. These pleats are made without lining, so as not to be clumsy, and the material must be shirred before being laid on the lining. The lower part of the sleeves is cut bias, and the large balloon puffs are cut from straight material. Both the jacket and tho high, close collar are edged with fur. Tne ribbon belt Is drawn in at tho back so as to form a large rosette, and, after being brought round under the fur trimming In liont, it fastens at tho side with another rosette. You can very often. In making

sleeves, use lengths of silk you have left over, lengths you have saved, thinking to trim hats with them, or “something.” Maybe they have faded, but never mind. Btrew the stuff thick with beads. Old white silk that is positively streaked from keeping, when covered thickly with small metallic gold or silver beads is every bjt as handsome as if it had started all right. Brooades that have lost brilliancy on the right side frequently show a soft br ghtuess of color on the wrong side, and a quaint blend ng of the colors. There may be a suggestion of “wrong side” abcut it, but there won’t be if you do some beading. Copyright, 18*).

PLUM-COLORED CLOTH AND VELVET.

WOOD-BROWN CLOTH AND REP GOODS.

A RES CAPE AND JACKET.

CLOTH FUR TRIMMED.