Democratic Sentinel, Volume 16, Number 52, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 13 January 1893 — FOR STYLISH WOMEN. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

FOR STYLISH WOMEN.

SOME OF FASHION’S LATEST DECREES. Handsome Cloaks and Mantles Brought Out by the Recent Cold Spell—Gowns Sketched by the Correspondent at a Fashionable Reception. What Women Are Wearing. New York correspondence:

UCH a spell of i cold weather a s (that which we ex'perieneed during tho holidays makes talk of cloaks and wraps especially timely. The initial illustration shows a prinoess-s h a p ed mantle oostume of a material whloh has small diagonal threads running through a grnylshgreen cloth. The passement erie tiimming is of round silk cord, with little knots, triangular in shape, in tho middle, and whioh form a sort of open trellis work. This robe has an under lining, reaching to the feet, on which is sewn tho plastron,which is alike

back and front The lining doses In the middle with hooks and eyos, the plastron is sewn on on one side and fastened on the shoulder and under the other armhole with hooks. This plastron is made of material cut on the straight, is gathered in slightly at tho neck, and falls in small gathers, and is provided with a band of material to prevent it from stretching. The hooks should either be sewn fast to a strip of silk or to the lining itself. In the letter case, the Upper material must not be sown in with the lining. The back part of tho prlnoess rotxf must bo so bias at the middle scam that tho skirt falls Into a ball shape. Some extra material may be also added to make more ample folds. Instead of breast darts, protection seams are use! underneath tho bodice so as not to be vlslb'e on tho outside. These seams must be sewn into small gores and thoroughly Ironed flat. The front breadths are fastened

with hooks and eyes, and the plastron is also secured to the rest of the costume in the same manner. The costume has a bertha In the shape of a flounce, which is formed Into epaulets on the shoulders, and is trimmed with passementerie and fur, like the length of the front. The fur should be either black or very dark In tone, Persian lamb or skunk preferable. The skirt should be lined with satin or silk, or even with flannel, If preferred, as It is to be worn without any outer garment. From about half a yard beneath the waist It should be sewn together. The sleeves are out out of one material, and have as usual two seams. They are lined and slightly drawn in so as to form a puff. This puff must be draped on tho lining and sewn In under the cuffs in such a manner as to give the impression that the whole sleeve is made in one. They are then trimmed with fur and passementerie, In the manner indicated.

Warm as Is the garment Just described, It would'be cold hearted and shivery to give a whole letter up to such delineation. So I turn to some gowns sketched at a reception. And where do you think the reception was? On the stage, in a play. Do you suppose ordinary women at the conventional reception would ever look so lovely, and wear their gowns the way these folks do, whether the gowns were as lovely or not? The woman shown in the first picture is the hostess, and she is eaught just as she went forward to greet her first guest, who is represented in the second illustration. See the pretty way that the hostess’ head tips back as she eays, “Why, my dear!" The hostess was a blonde, and her gown was a French rainbow silk of changeable roses and apple green to start with, and the u e

shades striped with hair lines of rose, and with other stripes of solid rose spr.nkled with roses and leaves and shining with a golden lnster. The corselet bodice and the sleeves were apple green. The upper part of the bodice crossed peasant fashion and was of the rainbow stuff. The sleeves were split to show the arm 9. Black velvet made the throat more slender, and velvet atout the waist did the same for that. The skirt ancrsleeves were edged with black feather trimming, and the fan with which she made her little Delsarte gestures was black. She was in such a pretty hurry to greet her guests that she had to lift her gown to avoid tripping, and that showed a petticoat of rose silk. Meanwhile, the guest came In, and she was a vision. She had on for a wrap a wonderful thing they call a capuchon.in Paris, of white velvet, with a flaring Henry 11. collar held In at the lower edge by a band of sable, and she bel4 thelong ends of the capuchon In her, hands to, simulate embarrassment The sable ran all down these long ends, too. Her dress was shot silk, all gray

and silver, the belt was silvery, the sleeves were very big, and all the little wrap was made so as not to interfere or hide them at all. The white and the sable and the gray and silver made her dark beauty seem the only beauty that was real, except l hat the rose and apple green blonde was right there to say no. See how the first guest has her' head tipped down. In the play the two women were not really very good friends, and the guest was getting ready to say something smart and cutting. You can see it as plain as day by the way she looks, and that is the result of Delsarte methods, or whatever you want to call it, that makes women on the stage do something. Instead of being so awfully passive. Another lady came in later. She was just as smarc as the first guest, and I took her just as she was saying something elegant and cutting to her. Didn’t she just en’oy It, though, with her head tipped back and to one side, that little Innocent smile, he»* hand just touohing the chair, and her pretty eeir poised forward with her shoulders back, so that her dress would show all the better, and her other elbow out so her astrakhan cape would stick cut effectively and make the other woman hate her oapuchon! See how she accomplishes two things by putting her hand at her hip:

she takes a chance to pull up her skirt a little bit, just enough so show [he hostess her skirt, which is tlio very latest filmy laoe over white lawn, and the hostoss wishes she had died before she ever put on that old rosc-coloVed thing of hers. Much of this ts shown In the third picture, but It is needful to say that this guest’s gown is emerald green. She is a blonde, too, and the hostoss needn't think apple green Is tho only green that will make a blonde look lovely. The bodice Is shirred very full at the neck, and then drawn In tight at the waist with a belt of black velvet all covered with green jot nail heads and pendants. Around tho bottom of tho skirt are two rows of astrakhnn, and the cape is of tho softest astrakhan In the world, and the two rulites that make it aro as full as If they were of cloth. Tho other guest hates her sable, And Is afraid she is so far ahead In the fashions that no ono will know that Bable is really the thing and that astrakhan is not. Another guest, she of the fourth picture, came still later, and I have her as she was In an awful rage. This reception was a big scene in the play, and wasn’t Intended merely to show the dresses. This last actress, you see, Is dressed to work, and t show her In tho exciting partof the soetiu where she Is ■declaiming. She hasn’t any wrap on to interfere with herdeing a rago act. Her igown, too, is quite plnta, and It clears the floor and sets <wwt in the back so that 4t seems a part of her being mad when «he does become angry. Any one can see she ts laying *down tho law by that left hand of hers, and that she is thoroughly (n earwest about it by the clenched right iiund. Again, that is

Delsarte. Her gown Is a soft lan. Bhe is a brown blende, and she knows that green Is all tike rage, and that the real blondes needn't think they have tho best of her a bit. Tho velvet bodice belt she wears Is chartreuse green. The buttons of her bodice are pearl. Her tiny hat is all perky with blaok wings. The hats of the first two visitors are too pretty U> miss. Number two wore a sort of twist of astrakhan with rosettes of emerald greeu all around it, and a tiny bunch of royal purple violets in each rosette. In Iront a little bunch of the violets stood up straight. Green and violet, it seems, are all right if they come ftom Paris. Number one woro a sort of butterfly, made of four wings of white la e all powdered with silver and sprinkled with little single violets. You may copy the dresses if you will, hats and all; they are from the newest models. Copyright. I*l3.

THE HOSTESS.

FIRST GUEST

SECOND GUEST.

THIRD GUEST.