Democratic Sentinel, Volume 16, Number 46, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 2 December 1892 — FOR THE LADIES. [ARTICLE]

FOR THE LADIES.

BBOWN TINTS BOOMING. Cinnamon brown is the most favorite color just now both for gowns, mantles and hats. In the latter it is almost invariably trimmed with black, whether fur, feather or velvet. The mantles are made with one cape or three, each being bordered with a band of jet some inch or two in width. The dresses are hemmed with astrakhan in brown or black, or trimmed with black galloon, in which jet may or may not appear. It is a becoming color, this cinnamon, with brunette i, but is a little trying to those blondes who have any inclination toward sickly sallowness. It is well to avoid it unless the tints of the complexion are clear and soft. —[Chicago Herald. FEET IN PLASTER. The latest whim of the San Francisco girl is a fancy for having her feet immortalized in plaster or marble. In the studios of the fashionable sculptor the artist and his assistants are busy reproducing the pedal extremities of society’s swell matrons and maidens at $lO a head, or rather a foot, for plaster, and from S7O to SIOO in the flawless marble of Carrara. And this is how it is done: The woman with the pretty foot removes her dainty shoe, and daintier stocking, dips her feet in oil, delicately perfumed, of course, and the sculptor forms a mold of plaster of paris about it, which is taken off in sections before it is quite dry. A plaster replica is cast from the matrix thus formed, and if the marble sac simile is desired it is chiseled out by. the sculptor's assistants. —[New York Journal. NEW FEATHERS. The prettiest new' feather is a white Aigrette, curled up in a crisp tangle of feather threads, so tine and delicate that the aigrette looks as though made of spun glass. These spun-glass aigrettes make the tail to of the queer birds. One such has brown wings made of two fluffy brown chicken feathers, and ahead as green as glass. A big head that might be an eagle’s but that it is a vivid yellow, has neither body nor wings, but has all gone to tail, which is a cluster of cream and yellow-shaded osprey feathers that curl this way and that, after rising at right angles to the head. Small square wings vithhead between them, are orange and green. A quill of tan color has a border that runs from the base around one side and over the tip, and is of purple-breast feathers mottled in magenta. Tuft aigrettes have the colored tufts dotted with little triangles of black. From the tufts rise stripped ribs with triangle tips. —[New York Times. ■WOMEN IN PHOTOGRAPHY. At Hyderabad, India, a photographic itudio has been opened in which the operators are women. The Koran forbids the making of portraits, but the muftis have declared that photography cannot be included in the prohibition, since the Prophet knew nothing about it. Nearer home we find that New York has a woman who has won the title of society photographer, and she makes a good income by photographing members of the.four hundred, while in Copenhagen one woman receives large commissions from the court., and in Stockholm another counts royalty among her patrons. New Orleans has two women photographers making a handsome living as proprietors, and many girls are earning comfortable salaries by retouching and coloring photographs.—[New York World.

A FOIL FOR BEAUTY. One of the most embarrassing positions in which a woman can be placed at the table is'when she is pouring the tea and coffee. These adjuncts to the meal are usually given to the guests at a time when there is a lull either in the eating or conversation, and naturally the attention of the company is attracted to the hostess, more especially so if she be a pretty and graceful woman. The English long ago recognized this fact and made a very pretty provision for it. It consists of a neat woven wire or metal frame work about eighteen or twenty inches high, which is placed on the outside of the tea tray, enclosing it on either side, thus partially hiding from view the fair one who is doing the honors. Generally speaking, the frame is ornamented with little draperies of light flowered silk or some other flimsy material, and thus she is shut off from the curious gaze of the guests, and can pursue the even tenor of her pouring without experiencing the slightest degree of nervousness. These screens are not, to our knowledge, very well known in this country, but once their utility was recognized, would doubtless become very popular. They could be trimmed with bows of ribbon or draped with lace or delicately painted designs on silk or satin. Suggestive and appopriate mottoes could also be woven in the centre or in any other manner that might suggest itself to the maker. This would greatly enhance their beauty and make a very ornamental addition to the furnishings of the table.—[House Furnishing Review. HIBTORY OF TIIE POLICE MATRON. Prior to 1883, Portland, Me., Providence, R. 1., and Boston had each one police matron, who served certain hours of day and evening. In that year Chicago had ten matrons day and night for all arrested women. Now it has twentvthree in divided districts. In 1887, Massachusetts, after repeated defeated efforts, encouraged by the result in Chicago, passed a law providing for police matrons for all cities having 30,000 or more inhabitants. Philanthropic women in New York next took up the work, hindered and discouraged just as women in other places have been, but with like success in the end. Buffalo has two women matrons, and one in the jail, for which, one women writes, “we.had to fight haid and long.” Philadelphia has eleven police matrons, who have charge of all women durin«;lie time they arc under arrest. Manchester and Nashua in New Hampshire have each one matron. New Orleans has me, who serves In the jail. There is one n San Francisco, bqt she never attends o the most degraded. The Chief of Police there says he “will allow no votnen to be humiliated by such associa■ion.” But these are the very women who nost need the help of their own sex. ■lassachusetts has twenty-two police latrons, ten in Boston, two each in Cambridge and Fail River, one each in .awrcnce, Lynn, Lowell, New Bedford, iVorcester. Springfield and Holyoke: >ut a number of the larger cities ignore he enactment which requires a matron vhere there are 30,000 inhabitants.

A GIBI/S FIRST LONG DRESS. There is nothing—no, not even worldly risdom—that so completely metamorphoses a girl of fourteen or fifteen as the tonning of her first real long dress. She

may have heretofore worn gowns *o the shoe tops, yet in their childish simplicity they were as suggestively youthful as though the regulation garb of babyhood. But just change the even all-round full skirt to the bell shaped drapery, with slight train, discard the guimpe and simple little waists, and what have we? a young lady pure and simple. Girls anxious to be young ladies often don these sweeping gowns many a season too soon, and in after years regret that they thus early assumed the garb of womanhood, for, strange as it may seem, a girl’s age is reckoned from the time she puts on her first real long gown. Of course, this style must needs make a change in her demeanor, for no matter how coltish one may feel, the environments of long cloth breadths will effectually put a stop to the frisky actions of early girlhood; therefore a new deportment comes with the lengthened skirt. The hair likewise from being allowed to flow loosely acts in inverse ratio to the skirt and is taken up higher on the head, until the little girl of yesterday becomes the young lady of to-day, whose age might be anywhere from seventeen to twenty-one. Girls, don’t be in a hurry to put on long dresses —think of the years you will have to wear them, and cling to youth and all its accessories as long as possible, for at the best it is gone too soon, though now, in your desire to become full fledged women, who have so many enjoyments from which you, owing to your youth, ar e debarred, you cannot realize the truth of such a statement. When the dolls are put away, the long dresses donned and the society manners replace the childish, unaffected simplicity of other days, your girlhood is over, ahd though in later years you may long once more for that period so replete with happiness it will have vanished forever with the simple gowns you now so utterly despise.—[New York Commercial Advertiser.

FASHION NOTES. Fur is now used for trimming. Bright red, trimmed with black velvet and jet, is popular for house gowns. Black and red double-breasted vests are fashionable with navy blue serge walking suits. Princess gowns have a yoke, round or V shaped, and a corselet of silk edged with a bead gimp. A short jacket front should never be worn by a stout figure, as it adds to the apparent breadth. Hercules braid three or four inches wide is used around the skirts of colored serge gowns. The dressiest bonnets have jet ornaments, and the whole crown is sometimes a network of the glistening beads. Following the English fashion flow'ers will be worn on felt hats—not lavishly, however. The little toreador jackets of velvet are not only quite stylish looking, but may be put on over a thin silk when the evening is cool. A coarse linen known as “butcher's blue’’ is in vogue for those blouses made with flat plaits and fitted closely to the figure. The double-breasted pique waistcoat is very popular, though a j . a shirt and jacket are necessary with it, it is not very cool. With the princess gown, has come the fancy for striped silks, and they are noted in black with pale blue, black with rose, and black with mode. The old-fashioned guipure lace has returned to vogue. It is used in the broader widths for trimming bodices, while for skirts, several ruffles of the narrowest width are most fashionable. With the tailor gown will be worn the new russet leather glove. Light shades, especially white, in suede, will be chosen for evening, and for dressy day wear pearl or light tan will be preferred to the dark tints. Among new boots the smartest is the heavy calf, laced, which will be worn by eviry fashionably right-minded woman with her tailor gown when she walks. For rainy days, oddly enough, russet leather shoes are considered the proper choice. They have pointed toes and common sense flat heels.

In bonnets there is little new just now, except that they are increasing in size, especially at the sides, and are heavily ornamented with jet and rich galoons of different kinds. Hats have superseded bonnets very generally, even for elderly ladies and matrons. The efforts of the silk producers to introduce vivid and startling colors in men’s neckwear have met with but a tepid indorsement. Embroidered and tinted full-dress bows are still very bad form. It seems strange that every year this remark must be made. The necessity for it is caused by the few who wish to appear eccentric or independent in their dress and the many who ape their fashions. The moth and the dragon fly—demoiselle is its less formidable French denomination—arc favorite forms for brooches and lace and hair pins, and are always largely represented in every show collection of wedding presents. The bumble bee and the hornet, the daddy long-legs and the blue-bottle fly an' 1 maDy other insects are composed of colored stones to suit their several characters, and supplied with iridescent and transparent wings. Clear enamel is very effective, too. in certain orchids, a large mauve blossom of the sort forming the pendent of a riviere. It is the fad now to wear the hair parted in the middle and coiled high in a fluffy knot upon the crown, after the fashion of the girls iu Gibson’s drawings. In canes and umbrellas the tendency this season is toward the use of natural sticks without metal tops. The sticks are of a smaller size, and made of smooth wood.

AVhite suede gloves and slippers are the choice now for e/ening wear, with all colored toilets. The soft clinging kid is becoming. Sometimes a tiny rhinestone buckle is set in a small bow of moire ribbon on each instep. The useful shirt waist has taken new hold upon popular fancy, and some very dainty ones are in blue silk trimmed with ruffles of the same, buttonholed iu white or red. These are especially pretty for wear with the skirts of Eton jacket suits. \ ery beautiful and dressy are the new capes of plain or changeable velvet. They are half long, very full and trimmed with passementerie and fur or feathers. Some arc longer, and have three graduated capes, each edged with fur. An Et.on jacket of black Astrakhan, as fine and lustrous as moire antique, made entirely of the skins of still-born lambs, is o:.e of the pretty youthful garments for winter. It has a turned-over shawl collar, and long, large sleeves; Small sleeveless bolero jackets of black velvet that may be worn with almost any dress are stylish additions to youthful toilettes. They cost from $7.50 to

$lO, neatly wrought with a silken border. Long boas and short tours-decou of chiffon, shirred and tucked into shape, are among the pretty new things for the house. They come in pale yellow, mauve, pink, black and brilliant red, finished with long t c ssels of loops of baby-ribbon, or else with an accordionplaited frill of the chiffon, or a gathered fall of white lace. Collarettes of two ruffles of silk but-ton-holed in scallops on the edges, and the straight sides joined together, are made in all light evening colors to brighten up dark dresses. They are quite long, and are passed closely around the neck, then taken diagonally across the front, and fastened on the left aide.