Democratic Sentinel, Volume 16, Number 43, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 11 November 1892 — Page 5

HAS SPOTTED THE THIEF

THE FARMER DISCOVERS THE REAL ROBBER. Buck’s A*sertl<in» Denied by Worker* in All Industries—The Whole Report Is Discredited and Is a Bad Investment for Republicans. It’s the Manufacturer. For thirty years the farmer has been Missing money. Just who took it and how they took ft has, up to date, been a mystery. One year he would perhaps miss a part of the value of his farm. Another he would find, to his surprise, that his accounts would be several hundred dollars short, saying nothing of his lost labor. Thirty years of this experience has left a large portion of Eastern farms valueless and covered Western farms with mortgages. During this time our protected manufacturers have been exceedingly prosperous. So much so that they constitute more than 30 per cent, of 4,000 millionaires which, according te the New York Tribune, we have produced in this time. Of course a few sharp-sighted men long ago discovered that it was the manufacturer who, with that most skillfully fashioned burglar tool, ■* protective tariff, was stealtnily filching money out of the farmers' pockets. These men pointed toward the rnanufa'turer, but this gentleman has persistently and good-naturedly denied the‘Charge and has expressed such great sympathy for the poor farmer that the latter has not only not prosecuted the manufacturer, but has believed him in preference to the disinterested on-looker, and has wasted thirty years following up wrong clues given by the wily manufacturer. The burglars have even made the farmer believe that they were his best friends, and have induced him by voting for the McKinley bill to present them with a new set of tools, keener and better than the old ones ever were. The bold and reckless manner in which these tools are being used has opened the eyes of the farmer and he is now, as elections since October, 1890, indicate, giving chase to the real robbers—the manufacturer and his agent, the Republican party.

A controversy now carried on through newspapers at Little Falls, N. Y„ between several protected manufacturers ©none side, and Mr. P. W. Casler, a prominentofficerof the Herkimer County Grange, and one or two editors on the other side, shows how hotly the manufacturers are being pursued and their frantic efforts to elude their pursuers. We extract the following from Mr. Caster's letter of Sept. 22: It te true that protection is good for the present interests of the manufacters: no one can doubt it. It is their own institution, gotten up by them, maintained by them and for them, and under it theya e becoming immensely rich. It is doing for them all they could expact. But is it doing or has it done so much for the farmer, on whom they are all absolutely depending? Is his condition better than it was twenty years ago? Is he getting rich? The farmer wno is not only feeding this great nation, but who is sending abroad from $600,000,000 to $700,000,000 worth of products every year to get money to pay our manufacturers for what they are making for him? The government allows the manufacturer to regulate the prices. Why should he not get rich and why should not the farmer get poorer when the latter has to take at home for that portion of his produce the same price that his surplus sells for to go abroad and be sold in competition with the cheapest “pauper labor’’ in the world? I assert —and challenge Mr. Walrath or any one else to deny it—that the farmer to-day is the onlylaborer m this country who is competing with the so-called pauper labor of the old countries, selling his products In the foreign markets and taking the same prices at home. Our aggressive policy of protection has not only not furnished the home market, but has helped to drive away to other places customers who would have come to us for our surplus produce had we been more willing to exchange with them; ana has caused the development of the wheat fields of India and Russia; the cotton fields now being opened up in Africa; the dairy interests of Canada, Australia and European countries, with all of which the farmers here have to compete an 1 do compete. The only help for the farmer is a reduction of his expenses, the cheapening of what he has to buy so that the pay which he gets for his produce (the price of which is regulated entirely by supply and demand) and which Is his wages, will go farther —will buy more for him. As the price of one pound of cheese will buy two pounds of sugar this year, while last it would buy but one so that, as far as sugar is concerned, he is as well off as if he were getting twice as much for his cheese. The reduction of his expenses and a broadening pl hi: ~ar!iet jp the only relief in sight for the 'nrmer. It is offered to him through tariff reform only. The Democratic party offers him free tin, free lumber, free salt, free coal and free wool. Who uses more of these articles than the farmer and who would be more benefited than he, unless it would be the manfacturers, who could then produce cheaper, even if the compensatory duties on the manufactured articles were removed? As the reduction in the cost of raw sugar has increased the consumption already 24 per cent, and helped the manufacture of everything into which sugar enters, so with tin, lumber, coal, salt, weol and iron. It is not “dear coats” or other articles the farmers want. It is cheap things. Then he will use them to develop his farms, increase his output, enlarge the home market for the manufacturer, and as prices go down consumption increases, living costs less and manufacturing increases, we would soon be in an era of posperity in which the farmer would have a share and bear no more than his just burdens.

What Free Raw Materials Do.

Our McKinley! friends in Massachusetts complain that, with tree raw material and a tariff for revenue only on flnisied goods, their boot and shoe industry is not getting ahead as it ought. It is doing first rate in Massachusetts, but if they wish to see a business booming, under the application of Democratic theories of trade, let them come to St. Louis, or else consider theso figures, furnished by the StLouis Shoe Manufacturers and Jobbers’ Association, showing what one town is doing with free hides and no “protection:” jn 1882 s . Louis made 400,000 pairs of s.ioes at an average price of #1.35 per pair; total vhluj, $540,000. In 1880 St. Louis made 1.200.000 pairs of shoes ut an averace price of $1.65 per pair; total value, $1.980,01w. An increase of 200 per cent in number of pairs made, 22 per cent in value per pair, and 266 per cent in total valuation. In 1891 St Louis made 4,500,000 pairs of shoes at an average pr.ce of fl. 85 per pair; total value. 58.325.000. An increase over 1886 of 275 per cent in number of pairs made. 12 per cent in value per pair, 32J per cent in total valuation. The increase of the ten years from Jan. 1. 1882, to Dec. 31, 1891, is 1.025 per cent on number of pairs made. 37 per cent in value per pair, and 1.441 per cent in tstal valuation. 'lbis remarkable showing places St Louis at the head of the list .a the manufacture of shoes, and shows that we have greatly improved the quaMty as well as increased the output What do you think of that? And re-

member that with free raw material and with boots and shoes taxed for revenue only we have built up this immense trade during the same time that our Woolen mills were being wiped out and our steel-producing business knocked in the head by Republican high taxes. Turn us loose out here, or only give us half a chance, and we will sell New England all the goods and lend it all the money it needs —and do it, too, at reasonable rates. Our day is coming, and when it does come we will show New England Protectionists that we are neither “infants” nor hogs here in the Valley.—St Louis Republic.

Mincemeat of Peck's Report.

How much the Republican earty has invested in Peck’s report, before and since its publication, is not known. It Is, however, probable that before the' end of the campaign they will be willing to give twice as much to blot out of •existence all memory of both Peck and his report; for the Democratic press is 1 swiftly proving the falsity-*! the claims' of one and making mincemeat of the; other. Not only is the report a lie on' its face—inasmuch as detailed state-ments-et forty-seven of the sixty-eight i industries reported show that these contain 400,000 employes, while the whole sixty-eight cental* but 285,000, but so far not a single Individual has been found whose wages have advanced $23 because of the McKinley bill, though ■every Democratic paper in New York; State is searching for this individual, ■ and some are offering premiums te bring him to the surface. But most im-; partant of all, and in spite of the factl that the records are burned, all of the• industries that have been investigated , through the laborers in them disprove, the report as far as they are concerned. Here are a few specimens: George McVey, a prominent officer in the Piano-makers’ Union, says there has been do increase in wages since 1891, and instead of benefiting pianomakers the McKinley law has actually injured them. He says he has been thirty years in the piaao business and has never know* the piano trade to be so dull la New York as sow. Increased duty on music wire and other raw materials, he thinks, is partly responsible for this dullness. Peck’s report said wages of machinists had been increased from 10 to 25 1 cents per day in 1891. August Wald nger,'delegate of the German Machinists’ Union, and Andrew Gunn, exPresident of the Amalgamated Society ■of Engineers, Blacksmiths and Pattern- ; makers, both assert that the McKinley bill has not helped machinists, and that there have been reductions, but no advances, since 1889. George K. Lloyd, delegate of the Tin and Sheet Iron Union, says that wages have been stationary in his industry for several years, though Peck credits it with an advance.

Peck says the wages of brewers were advanced oO per cent, in 1891, or from $101) to $l5O per month. Mr. Seifert, Secretary of tue Master Beer Brewers’ Pool, says that wages have been unchanged for seven years, and that the highest paid are but $lB a week. Peck says that bakers' wages were advanced from sl.66jf in 1890 co $1.83£ in 1891. Henry Weisman, editor of the official journal of the Bakers’ National Union, says there has been no increase of wages in three years, and that they are extremely low—in certain quarters as low as $1.50 and $2 per week. Mr. Weisman also declares that neither confectioners nor confectioners’ helpers have had their wages increased since 1889, as Peek reports. Peck says that wages in the clothing industries have been advanced about lo per cent, since 1883. Mr. Charles F. Belchers, General Secretary of the United exarment Workers of America, says that the tailors did get an advance of 5 per cent, in 1890, but that the wages of cutters had been stationary instead of being advanced irom 25 cents to $5 per week, as Peck says. Mr. Walter Westbrook, a Republican, and Master Workman of Local Assembly 2853, United Clothing Cutters, K. of L., also says there has been no change in the wages of cutt.rs since 1886. Peck says that the wages of upholsterers and cabinet makers were increased from Bto 25 per cent. Melchor Meyer, Secretary of Furniture and Cabinet-makers’ Union No. 7, says that the wages of workmen in bed, bedding, mattresses, chairs, lounges, extension tables, and upholstery trimmings were not increased last year nor this year, for the reason that the men were not organized. Cabinet-makers won an advance of 5 to 10 per cent, in 1891, he says, becaqgQ thjy were organized and midi a good flghJ. Peck says that outside of the lasters, who suffered slight reductions, the most of the employes in the boot and shoe industry had their pay advanced last year, Mr. W. L. Brower, the President of the General Council of the Shoemakers, says that wages of shoemakers in this State have been going down since 1888, aryl have declined 25 per cent, within a year. Peck says that carpet workers have had their wages advanced since 1890. The employes in Higgins’ big carpet factory, in New York, say that there have been no advances in three or four years.

Peck saye that the wages of carriage and wagon makers have been greatly advanced. August Ehser, Secretary of the United Carriage and Wagon Makers of New York, says that instead of an increase the men have been having their wages gradu illy reduced, and that the reduction during the past four years amounts to from 10 to 15 per cent. And these are the results of inquiry, not of protected manufacturers who receive the protection bonus under obligation to turn it over to their employes, but of the employes themselves who are supposed to know whether or not they have received what was intended for them. A possible explanation is that the manufacturers, who figure in Peck’s report, have received the bonus, but so iar have been too busy to make the division and are now holding the fund in trust for their employes. Altogether it seems probable tba 1 ; Peck was too prompt In delivering his goods to the Republican party, and that their value would have been enhanced a thousand fold if delivery had been withheld until about Oct. 31.

A Tin-Plate Triumph.

And now for the circus part of McKinley’s illustration of the magnificent success of the tin-plate-triplet industry that is so richly bolstered by tariff taxes paid by the people. A tin banner wq,s paraded upon the stage at a propitious moment to enthuse the multitude, bearing the noble inscription, “American Tin, Norristown, Pa.,” with the name of the Ardmore Republican Club on the other side. It was a magnificent spectacular display, and Governor McKinley bowed time and again in response to the thunders of applause ’ which drowned iris voice. I am sorry to spoil this beautiful pageant, but it was such a sublime, such a heroic fraud that I must expose it. That identical tin banner was manufactured by Mr. William H. Edwards, of the Ely Tin Plate Company, near Cardiff, Wales, who came over here with hie Welsh superintendent, Mr. Richard Lewis, and later bought and repaired a pill at Norristown, imported his own plates from his foreign mill, imported his own tin from Wales, imported his own skilled workmen, and dipped the English plates in English tin by English workmen, and McKinley pointe to it as a grand

aeMevemvat «T his tariff in producing American tin. There is one of the earn J tiu plates (pointing tn a tin plate on ths platform). and I have the certificate M the man who made it. Here is the letter Ln the original: “Richard Lewu. Manager, Norrlsto plate Works Norristown, Pa. “NobbutOW*. Pa, Sept 24. 1892 “Messrs. W. F, Fotta Sou A O*. Philade?ph la; “Drab Fibs—Replying to your Inqult.x we bog to say our place here Is not what is known as a tin-plate works la Wales, bet it is rather the tinning-house at a tinplate mill, and In this respect is exactly like the majority of the tin-plate works la America, except that we are working ou a larger scale than the majority of plants at present running over here In America. “Mr. Win. H. Edwards, the owner, continues to operate bis tin-plate works In Wales, but when the Anal operation of tinning the steel, sheets is. reached, the sheets •are shipped to us here and finished by us by being run through patent tlanlngpots. Besides importing these steel sheets ■cut to size and ready for tinning, we also Import the plg-tln and palm oil need for tinning the sheets, as none of American product can bo obtained. We pay 1.65 ■cents per pound duty on the steel sheets and 46 per cent, on the machlnea Our ten men are experienced hands formerly euBatted Tn the industry In Wales Respect-fully-yours. Richard Lbwis, Manager.” It would have been a shame to play each a circus trick on Gov. McKinley but for the fact that he has tolerated just such frauds In glorifying every tinplate establishment that he has stood ■sponsor for. He should have seen to Lt limit an American plate was borrowed somewhere and dipped in American tin by .am American boy to save his own (reputation. Indeed, rather than have one of hie national repute caught in such a clownish circus trick, I would have dipped a plate for him myself. Truly, as McKinley says, “We can make American tin; we can make anything." But we are not making American tin, and we have taxed the American ipeople already nearly $25,01X1,000 in the unsuccessful experiment. But milltons <or scores of millions of taxes taken Irona the people seem to be of no moment whatever to the political leaders who rob the masses under color of law to etnrich classes. This so-called tin industry te the most Impressive of all the many appalling object-lessons of the Me Kin lb y tariff, as it Is all fraud that is not robbery.—Col. McClure's recent fipeecli.

Prices Under MoKinleyism.

The Reform Club will soon issue a number of Tariff Reform made up of prices of important articles of clothing, food, eta., before and since the passage of the McKinley bill, compared in many cases with -the prices in England. These prices were obtained from leading New York houses and from the best authorities In this country. They are not exceptionally low or high prices, but represent the actual condition of the markets for the articles mentioned—mainly those on which duties were increased by Me Kinley. The duties vary from 35 to more than 200 per cent., and are mostly between 50 and 100 per cent., and were increased by McKinley an average of 20 or 25 per cent. Below are given some of the retail prices under “clothes and clothing.” Where several prices are given for the same article, they are for different grades or qualities of that article;

Aug. '9O; Aug. ’O2. Women night shirts VJ.44 $4.19 Neckties, each 74 89 ’’ “ 99 1.24 Foreign umbrella..... ... 1.99 2.24 Handkerchiefs, plain white, cotton and linen, printed borders, each... 14 17 Handkerchlefs, plain wnite, cotton and linen; printed borders, each... 12 15 Handkerchiefs, embroidered. linen and cotton, eajh 79 02 Hsndkerobiefß, embroidered, linen and cotton, each 09 1.10 Spotted curtain, muslin, per yard 24 23 Spotted curtain, muslin, per yard 80 86 Buttons—Staple pearl buttons, per gross 10 12 Manila pearl buttons, cheapest, per dozen... 30 45 Silk plush for garments 60 inches wide, per yard... «.oo 1.00 Corsets—Black wool 2.00 3.61 C. P. French, No. 263 2.99 8.61 FINE NATURAL UNDERWEAR. (Average size.) Price In Aug. 'OO Aug. ’O2 England. Ladles' light weight3)Sn>B to dozen, per garment $1.75 $2.00 SI.OO Men’s light weight shirt 4 lbs 1 oz. to doz 1.00 2.25 1.15 Men's shirts 11 lbs to dozen 8.05 4.75 1.05 Men's shirts, medi’m weight 11)4 tbs to aoz 3.50 4.00 1.65 Price In Underwear— Aug. ’92. England. Men’s Furley A But- % tram shirts, retail... .$3.00 $1.20 Men's Furley Buttram shirts, retail 2.00 .60 Twelve-thread merino shirt. 16 lb to dozen, retail [email protected] [email protected] Ladies’ merino shirt, Cartwright Warner or Furley & Buttram, retail....- [email protected] 1.08 Ladies' merino garment, retail 4.25 1.68 Children's merino shirt, retail 1.60 .go Children’s merino shirt, retail 2.08 .06(31.08 (Prices as for average sizes.). Price In Hosiery— 1890. 1802. England. Ladies’ cotton ribbed stockings, perpair.... $1.25 1.50 .... Ladies’ cotton stockings, per pair 50 .62 .... Woolenstockings,perpr 50 .20 Woolenstockings.perpr.... 1.08 .48 Woolen, men's half hose 25@ .30 .12 Woolen, men’s half hose .... .45@ .50 .18 Upholstery goods— Common lace curtains, per pair 73 .90 .48 Same, better quality. 1.92 2.11 i.is Gloves— Prices in (Average sizes.) Aug.’9o. Aug.'92. England. Men’sFownes or Dent’s, Craven tan. per pair.. $1.60 $1.75 .85 Men's Trefouse, perpr. 2.00 2.25 (France)l.SO Men's kid gloves (Dent's or Fowne's) 2.00 2.25 1.34 Ladles', four-button, Fowne’s 1.50 1.75 1.10 Present price 1890. 1892. in Eng. Linen goods. (These prices are wholesale.) Cheap crash toweling, per yard 07 .10 .06 Cheap crash toweling, per yard 11 .12)4 .07 Huckaback towel, per dozen 1.50 1.75 .77 Huckaback towel, per dozen 1.75 2.00 1.20 Glass towelings—--18-inoh. all linen, per yd .09J4 ,iou ,og Napkins, per dozen. 1.00 [email protected] .60 Napkins, per dozen. 1.26 1.40 .63 Napkins, M, per dozen. 1.75 2.00 .84 Napkins, %, per dozen. 2.00 2.25 .M Cottton embroideries. (Wholesale prices.) Hamburg edgings, common patterns, yd— Pattern A .07% .09 .06 Pattern B 10% .1214 .05@5)4 Pattern C 10% .12 .06 Pattern D 12 .14 .0544 Pattern E.. .06 .07 .04 Pattern F 0254 .03 .02 Pattern G 06 .07 .04 Pattern H 02% .03 .02 These embroideries are the most common patterns, and very extensively used; in fact, they are used by nearly every women in moderate circumstances. They are used for trimmings on all under garments and white dresses. These patterns are arbitrarily called A, B, C, D, etc.

That’s So!

Several letters have been published in one of our village papers, showing the benefits of a high protective tariff. Is. it not a little s ngular that not one should appear from the farmer, the mechanic or the workingman, if protection was of benefit to them? The manufacturers are the only ones to speak, as they are the only beneficiaries—Herkimer County News. . Counterfeit Swedish money Is made here

LOVELY FALL STILES.

DRESSES AND WRAPS MINUTELY DESCRIBED. The Habit eC Wearing Jewelry In the Hat a Most Annoying One—How to Convince People That You Really Have Been Out W Town. Many New Materials. New Yerkoenwspendeace:

has a doable collar, quilted and sewn back onto the V, which is fastened in front. The edge of the cape te ornamented by a ruche of scalloped cloth. The collars are edged with black velvet. The cloth V is trimmed with velvet ornaments which are sewn on. You will observe that it has nodangling ribbons. That is a whim already by-gone. It Is doubtful if under any circumstances the fashion of a brace of ribbons or a long rope of beads depending from the point of the bodice in the back, is graceful. Possibly, when the ribbon or bead rope floats off on the descending wave of the train it looks well, but when the train is held up and close around the knees, and when, as often happens, the rope of beads escapes and hangs alone and forlorn from the prominent drapery above, when it floats all by itself in the breeze, and the observer getting a profile view of the wearer, sees, oh, heavens! daylight between the dependent ornament and the wearer, then what does it look like? Why, nothing but a tail. The fashion might delight a Darwin’s soul, but to the ordinary human the suggestion of monkey ancestry is clearly enough set forth by the general wear without this particular advertisement. Now we have taken to wearing our jewelry in our hats, and an insecure feeling It gives one. That is what it means when a girl suddenly looks half scared to death and begins to claw at her hat. It is that jeweled pin she has in the bow, and which of course she cannot find by just clawing for It. It was bad enough to wear jeweled pine in the hair. One likes to have one’s valuables in view, but the hat fad te worse. Every woman who would have a jeweled buckle in her hat and peace at the same

AN OCTOBER MANTLE.

time in her mind should provide herself with a pocket mirror. This is a season for formal visits, for going to picture exhibitions, for attending out-door sports, and, therefore, for the display of what are called calling costumes. One of these is depicted in the third cut. As worn at the time the sketch was made, It was in fawn crepon, the left side of the bodice being of fawn silk embroidered in gold; terra cotta hat, trimmed with ostrich tips oi the came shade and bow of moss-green velvet. Have a shell on a handt'ome pebblerock polished and engraved with a summer date, and Newport, or Bar Harbor, or Mount Desert, Charlie, or Dick, or something like that may be added. Have this put on your umbrella stick for a handle. It will help people to believb you really did go out of town. Some girls have come home with pebble “friendship” ring?. A pebble they, or, as she puts it, "we” picked up together. She does not say who “we” Is, but on the gold band of tho ring is “Bar Harbor, Aug. 1'?, Charlie.” Such rings don’t cost much, and it looks well to have two or three of them—sort of “scalps” to show for the summer. The next of the fashion plates shows a promenade costume. The skirt is of faille, the blouse of surah, and the vest is made at the back of the same stuff as the skirt, and in front of woolen material lined with silk. The skirt is in the ordinary style, and lined with silk or sateen. The middle seams, back and front, are sloped in such a way that the stripes form points. The two back breadths are a little raised at the top, so as to make graceful folds. In front the darts are made quite near the stripes on top, and are lost in the latter. The pleats at the back are flat. The bodice is fastened in the middle, the

A CAMMING COSTUME.

.astening being hidden by the folds of the waistcoat. The breast darts are only made in the lining, over which the surah is stretched. The backs and sides are stretched. The jacket, is open behind, giving a view of the faille, as the stripes converge toward the top. The corsage is all in one with the vest which s sewn in at the shoulder-seam and at the sides under the arms. The belt is of silk, fastened in front by a bow, and

ERE we are again at the time for capes, and a modish one is shown, back and front, in these pictures. It is a dowbte cape with embroidery trimmings. The model was in gray doth, with trimmings of black velvet and ribbon*. The double cape is pointed at the back and goes down to the edge of the pelerine, diminishing in breadth. The V

skirt. The bottom of the skirt measures about three yards and a quarter. At the top it has three darts necessary to make it set well on the hips, and behind it is formed into either flat pleats or kilts. The trimmings of crape arq ornamented with applications of the woolen material, but these may be dispensed with if required. The waist is. plain, and closed in the center with dull euttons of imitation crape. A sort of corselet in crape is sewn on this waist and is divided in the middle. It is advisable to line the crape with organdie muslin in order to stiff en it. The crape is cut on the slope, and the two sides are sewn back over the muslin. In sewing the corners, greut care must be taken, as crape easily unravels and gets down. The best plan is to sew it on a narrow ribbon, so as to keep it straight and smooth. The corselet may either extend from the two sides or be continued right around to the back, forming a point by joining the bands of crape. The sleeves are draped over tightly fitted lining. The bottom of the skirt is trimmed with a band of crape. The question of wearing mourning at all was discussed by a party of brainy women, in the presence of the writer, and three out of the five defended the practice. The gist of their argument was that a true mourner could not feel respectful of her dead if she did not wear black. Usage and right sentiment alike, they urged, demanded black toilets for the grief-stricken. The fourth debater was on the fence; She thought that mourning garments might well be worn by genuinely deep mourners, but on others they were a false pretense. She told of a truly conscientious widow who wore crape at her husband's funeral,

because, though he had been her senior by twenty years, she respected him greatly. But in marrying him she had thrown over a devoted lover, who was still a bachelor, and who, as her heart knew well enough, would be a suitor for her hand as soon as propriety would permit. “And how long did she ear mourning" was asked. “Six days,” was the reply. “She felt that she was a humbug until she laid it aside. In six months she was a wife again, and no doubt, if her present husband should die, she would feel like wearing mourning a year at least, for she loves him.” The fifth woman, although she spoke tenderly and respectfully of those who outwardly mourn their lost ones, attacked the custom vigorously. "Most women are in favor of mourning,” she said, “yet it is evidently a pernicious custom. It is net good taste, for one thing, to call a'tention in general to your affairs in particular, whether happy or not. Again, the outlay of money is almost wicked, s nee no good is attained for anyone. The wearing ol the dismal garb tends to keep the mind upon the shadowed side of one’s bereavement, and that is, to say lhe least, uncivilized, Why, then, do women favor the custom? I have made a few inquiries—guardedly, o’ course. Now prepare to see your castles and ideals tumble. ‘Oh, mourning is so becoming,’ cried one pretty little blonde. ‘lt gives one distinction in a crowd,’ another dainty friend of mine explained, which meant in plain English that it gave a woman an opportunity 'to do what in her soul she always wants to do: to take the world into her confidence about her private affairs. Only the most rigid cub om of well-bred folk prevents women from wearing white, even on the street, that the whole world may know they are brides. A woman has hardly learned the color of her child’s .eyes before she yearns to take it out all by herself that the world may see she has a baby." Copyright, 1802.

kept tn place behind by passing through a strap of the masarial. The part ot the vest forming a little waistcoat 1* sewn to the vest on one side and fastened on the other. This waistcoat is ornamented by buttons of passementerie. It is lined with muslin and silk. The sleeves are lined and tight-fitting, th< underneath part being of the same stuff as the dress, faille, ove, which the puffed upper sleeves are adjusted, as indicated by our engraving. Pleated surah collar and silk cravat are added, in a gentle modification of the masculine fad, which is now abating. There are changes in the fashions of morning costumes, as well as in others, but they are slow and conservative. It is a curious fact that brides and widows, when they go to the altar, respectively, for joy and grief, are disinclined to depart very far from old usuages in drees. There is some novelty, however, In mourning garb, and I have sketched a toilet worn by an exceedingly fashionable young widow at the funeral of her husband- The dress is dull black. The skirt is cut on the bias as usual. It la lined with taffeta, and is cut on the bias each side on top. This bias must, however, not bo exaggerated, inorder not to make points at each side of the

A MOURNING TOILET.

THE JOKER'S BUDGET.

JESTS AND YARNS BY FUNNY MEN OF THE PRESS. Wise Provision of Nature—Quite Possible—Wearing on Him—A Filial Tribute Spoiled. WISE PROVISION OF NATURE. Little Dot—l wonder why it is grown folks’ noses get so thin and hooked when they grow old? Little Dick—Huh! Any one might know why that is. It’s to hold the spectacles.—[Good News. QUITE POSSIBLE. Billings, Jr.—Pa, if an animal breaks his back docs he get humpbacked like a human being? Billings, Sr.—Yes;, my son; but what makes you ask such a question? Billings, Jr.—l was just wondering if the hump on the camel was caused by the last straw.—[Truth. WEARING ON lIIM. Mr. Scraggs—That man Jones never pays his fare; he just travels on his face. Mr. Scraggs—l wondered what made his features look so irregular.

A FILIAL TRIBUTE SPOILED. Popinjay—l certainly was well brought up as a bov. To whom do you suppose I owe all that I have? Billijay—To your creditors. QUITE FREQUENTLY, YRS. “Now that we are together again for another season’s work,” said the teacher in the mission Sunday-school, “we will have to arrange for a little entertainment —by the way,” she added, “can any of you children tell me what an entertainment is?” Up went a little hand in one of the buck benches. “Well, what is it, Sammy?” “It’s sumpin’ ter eat.”—[Detroit Tribune. PLENTY OF TABLE. Friend—How do you like the table at Mrs. Slimdiet’s? Livermore—Well, when one gets up from it, there is nothing left to be desired. TRIBUTE OF FRIENDSHIP. The Professor—ln some respects Miss Whackster is n highly gifted young woman. At school, 1 remember, she excelled in mathematics. In a largo class in geometry she was easily the first. Miss Laura Kujones—Yes, the dear girl always was so—so angular, you know.

KNEW JACK. Penelope—Jack really loves mo after nil. Perdita—What makes you so certain? Penelope—Why, darling, ho tried to make me believe that he loved you. SUCH A TIDY HOUSEWIFE. Mr. Flatteman (who has been attempting to shave himself)—Quick, Arabella, fetch me a towel or something, I’ve nearly cut my throat and it's bleeding terribly! Mrs. Flattoman—Oh, Henry, how inconsiderate you are—bleeding on the bedroom carpet, when I’ve often told you not to shave anywhere but in the bathroom,—[New York Herald. THE SUNNY BIDE. She—But I can’t cook and I hate to wash dishes. He—Then I am decidedly the one you should marry. I can’t afford to buy anything to cook, and so we won’t need dishes.—[Life. A PRIZE PACKAGE. Wilson—She don’t hear me. She’s all wrapped up in a newspaper. Brown—There are not many newspaf»ers that have such valuable contents. — King's Jester. NO WONDER THE PARROTS SWEAR. Little Tommy Whykins hud been wrestling with a piece of hardtack. “Mamma,” said he, after a silence. “What is it?” “If poll-parrots get all the crackers they ask for, I don’t wonder they learn to swear.”—[Washington Star.

THE WRONG PERSON BLAMED. “Arc you aware,” said the man in the rear fiercely, “that your umbrella is poking me in the eye?” “It isn’t my umbrella,” replied the man in front, with equal fierceness, “it's a borrowed ore, sir.”—[Exchange. EASILY 'BELIEVED. Mary—Mebbc I’m ugly now, ma’am, but in my day I’ve broken many a heart. Mistress—Well, Mary, if you handle hearts the way you do iny china, I believe you. NOT ENTHUSIASTIC. Charlie—May I announce our engage" ment nt once? Clara—Not yet. Perhaps both of us may bo able to do better. GOOD ADVICE. “What is the matter with you, Gus?” asked Mr. Murray Hill of Gus de Smith. “I was engaged to be married to Miss Birdie McGinnis and now she has gone back on me.” “Don’t let that worry you, Gus. As pretty a girl as she is will soon find some other young man to marry,” replied Mr. Murray Hill.—[Texas Siftings. ROUGHLY HANDLED. Weggie—A wudc, wough man I never saw before said “Hello!” to me in the stweet to-day. Chollv—Gwacious! weren’t you fwightened?—[New York Herald. DISCOURAGING LOGIC. Johnnie—Ma, I want a bicycle. . Mother—Johnnie, you should not desire anything too eagerly in this world. Johnnie (hedging)—But I don’t want it very badly. Mother (decidedly)—Well, I can’t encourage every little passing whim. You can’t have it.—[New York Herald. HARD TO UNDERSTAND. Little Boy—Well, that’s the queerest 'thing I ever saw. Mother—What is? • “I just saw our school teacher on the bench a-laughin’ just like other people.” —[Street & Smith’s Good NcWs. AFTERTHOUGHT. She (quizzingly) —So you married her after saving her life? He—Yes. She—And I understand that she is rery rich? He—Yes. She—How lucky for you I He— Yes—but think how lucky it

would have been for me if I had been married to her before she fell overboard. SNUBBED. Clara (thinking to make Ethel envious) —You can’t imagine how delightfully Charlie makes love. Ethel—Oh, yes, lean. He used to try it with me till I snubbed him. HOW TO INCREASE THE CIRCULATION. “I wish I could strike some plan by which I could double my circulation,” remarked a Texas editor. “There are several ways by which that can be accomplished,” replied a friend. “Name them.” “Well, get married. Then two hearts will beat as one and consequently you’ll have doubled your circulation.” —[Texas Siftings.

HIS ONLY FAULT. “Mr. Hollins is a splendid fellow, I think,” said Miss Perkins. “Yes,” said Ethel; “but ho is very absent-minded. When we were first engaged he used to call me Alice all the time—he said that was his mother’s name, which was also very forgetful, because I’ve found out since it was Mary.” —[Harper’s Bazar. A TRUE FRIEND. Van Winkle—ls the house you are building coming within the limit? Von Blumer—Yes, indeed. I wag peculiarly fortunate. The architect happened to be a friend of mine, and he is Jutting me up a |2,000 house for only s,ooo.—[Truth. THE CONVENIENCE OF FASHION. Mr.' McFad—By Jove, I burst my susjienders. Mrs. McFnd—Take mine. I will use your sash.—[Judge. A HINT. Young Wise —Do you love mo still, George? Young Husband—You have asked me that a dozen of times to-day, and I have answered yes. Y. W. —But you don’t love anybody else? • Y. lI.—I don't—not yet. AN EFFORT OF MEMORY. Charlie—l think—ah—l must have seen you before. Prunella—Yes. You were introduced to me in the drawing-room about five minutes ago. A LONGER WORD. Miss Bleecker (patting her friend on the shoulder)—Never say die! Miss Emerson (of Boston) —I do not. I always suy expire.—] Judge. PROOF POSITIVE. Miss Boodle—Count, how do you know that your diamonds are genuine? Count—liy ze advances of ze pawnbrokaire. —[ Tid-bi ts.

WELL SHAKEN. She shook my hand. I felt the thrill Of her soft touch. I feel it still. And when, presuming on that touch, I foolishly essayed too much, And said I loved her—urged my plea— By nil that's good she shook the rest of me. —[Detroit Free Press. A GOOD SCHEME. Tourist—Do those scarecrows save your crops? Farmer—They work first-rate. You see, every tramp that comes along crosses the fields to sec if th’ clothes is wuth stealin’, w’ich they ain't, an’ that scares th' crows away. TWO SIDES OF A QUESTION. Foreman of the Lockcd-In Jury (impatiently)—The rest of us are agreed, and you would see the case as we do if you had an ounce of brains. Obstinate Juror (reflectively) —But that’s just the trouble; I’ve got more than an ounce.—[Tid Bits. MARKED ATTENTIONS. “His attentions to you have been marked, have they not?” said the young woman’s experienced friend. “Oh, yes. He has never taken the price tag off any of his presents.”— [Washington Star.

RELIABLE RECIPES.

Bean Soup.—Take about one quart of beans which have been parboiled and let them stand in the liquor for an hour oi so until they arc pulpy; then let them come to a boil and season with salt, pepper and about a tablespoonful of butter: also slice two or three large potatoes very thin into the broth and a whole medium sized onion; often times othe: vegetables may be used. French Hash.—Chop up very fine any kind of meat; put it into a frying pan oi stew pan; season with butter, salt and pepper; put in some water and allow if to cook well; just before it is done put in a little cream; have some bread nicely toasted, placed in a large dish and put s spoonful of hash over each piece, pouring any gravy in the dish over it; this makes a very nice breakfast dish. Pea Soup.—Soak a quart of split peas (or take the fresh ones) in water ovei night, then put them in a pot with twe gallons of water, six cold boiled potatoes, two onions well sliced, one pound oi pork, or an old ham bone, or some dried beef; cover very closely, boil very slowly for five hours, season to taste with peppei and salt; one tablespoonful of celery seed imparts a fine flavor; serve the pork on s platter with vegetables after the soup. Chicken Salad.—Select a chicken that will w’eigh about four pounds, drew and joint, wash and put in a kettle with plenty of cold water, add a little salt and cook until the bones will slip out easily, when cool take off all the skin and fret the meat from the bones; cut with u sharp knife in bits; some only use the white meat, but the salad is equally good to use both the light and dark. It hardly pays to use the wings and the pieces which have so little meat on, ana they canbesivcd for lunch. Measure the meat and set it in the ice box. Clean and and cut in pieces about half-inch long enough celery so you have the same quantity as you have of the chicken; oi course, only the white part of the celery is good. The light green tips are nice to garnish the salad with when ready foi the table.

Origin of the Liberty Cap.

When the Romans manumitted a slave his head was adorned with a small red cloth cap. As soon as this was done he was known as a libertinus or freedman, and his name was registered among others of the city’s “tribes.” In the year 263, when Saturninus invaded the capital, says the New Orleans Picayune, he hoisted a cap on the point of his spear, to indicate that all slaves who rallied around this standard should be free. This was the origin of the liberty cap, still used in art ns a symbol.