Democratic Sentinel, Volume 16, Number 42, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 4 November 1892 — WHAT OCR WOMEN DON. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

WHAT OCR WOMEN DON.

FASHIONABLE OVERGARMENTS ARE THE THING. A Handsome Dolman of Chinchilla Goods Ornamented with Lace and Ribbons—The Latest Wrinkles In Drawing Room Arrangements. Gossip fTom Gotham. New York correspondence.

SEASON of fancifully fashionable overgarments is at hand, and so thin women are at a n advantage over thick ones. Many a stylish mantle or cloak won’t do at all for broad figures. Typical garments in tho new styles are herewith depicted. The initial fashionplate shows a dolman or palatine,, made ot chinchilla goods and ornamented with lace and ribbons. At the

Joining of the sleeves with tho front breadths folds of gray silk are placed. The lace, falling in the form of a collarette and forming a straight collar, is ornamented with bows of gray ribbon. The second garment, sketched full length, is a pelisse made of poplin, or broad-ribbed bengaline, and trimmed with sable. The bias at tho bottom, the cape and yoke are all made of maroon or brown velvet. Behind, both sides of the cape are hidden by the large double fold in the midst of tho back of the pelisse. The straight collar is trimmed with fur. The yoke of velvet is adorned in front with ornaments of pas-etui ntcrie and at the back with a band o' fur. At the bottom the trimming is do..bio. This pelisse can be made in cloth or any other adaptable material. The little girls, bless their doll-faoos and coquette-hearts, are delightfully picturesque In tho new cloaks. Look at the one in the picture. In the original It is mode of cashmere. The wedded yoke Is of the ordinary shape, and tho pleated folds are sewed on straight beneath it all round. It Is lined with surah. The coat is fastened in the front It is trimmed with fur, and or-

namented by large rosettes of ribbon, the long ends of which fall down to tho bottom of the cloak. The turned-down collar is trimmed either with feathers or fur. The sleeves are large and puffed, either wadded or lined, gathered in at the wrist, and trimmed with fur. Tho rosettes and ribbons are not absolutely necessary, and their omission does not injure tho general effect. Little Mrs. Clever tolls mo that she is never bored by people coming on hor “day” and staying and staying. Do you know what the little woman does? She has tho most uncomfortable c-hairs that ever were made put In hor rooms on her reception day. She declares nobody can sit in them more than five minutes. Of course the guests do not realize why they cut their calls so short, and Mrs. ClevCr does not mean them to, but all the same, it is the chairs. Tho things look pretty, you know, but oh! to sit on them! Wicked, isn’t she? Talking of chairs, what a blessing it is that tidies and scarfs and so on are being dispensed with. What more awkward than to gather up one’s own draperies and take along a chair scarf, and very likely the chair, too. How delightful to emerge into (he sunshine with a tidy sticking on the lpack' of your sealskin cloak. How lovely to be ornamented with a fringed orange bow where you least want it, or to bo decorated with a motto trimmed with bells and spangles. A November caller is shown in the fourth sketch. Her froca is of pekin woolen material, with jabot of lace. The bodico only comes down as far as the waist and i 3 fastened in tho center. The back breadths have no seams, the middle thereof being indicated by a stripe, and care must be taken to make the stripes perfectly correspond. The jabot is made separately in embroidered batiste, silk muslin or China crape. The bodice is ornamented 1 by two ribbons

that form a corselet, being taken at the seams under the arms. Tho balloon sleeves on tight-fitting lining are trimmed with sateen or silk. The bottom flounce Is made of the same stuff as the jabot and edged with a small ruching of the same. There is a movement of fashion to clear boudoirs, parlors and salons of the clutter of bric-a-brac that for so many years has crowded all space. Let us hope the movement will be successful. But do you know whence the fad for crushing things together in our rooms came? From royalty itself. The draw-ing-room of the Princess of Wales, at Sandringham, looks like a magnificent auction room. The two great rooms are separated by a curtained doorway. The drapery is dark and very heavy plush. All the woodwork, walls, etc., are painted light. A fireplace and mantel, surmounted by a great mirror, is at the end of the larger room. The folding

doors from the hall are at the side and flanked by pier glasses. All the mirrors are bracketed with candles. There is a grand piano with fringed cover. An enormous basket of growing palms is in the middle of the room, and over in a corner some great plumes of feathery dried grass—like what we see here dyed pink and blue—are set up high. There are dozens of tables of all kinds except solid kinds. They are all laden with bric-a-brac of the must perishable sort. There are quantities of chairs uoholstered in all materials and all styles. There is a divan phenomenally broad, and even then jammed with pillows, which are magnificently covered, usually with velvet on one side and damask or silk on the other. Vases crowded with flowers are everywhere. The walls are all panelled and no pictures are hung. Several screens are spread, however, and on the leavos pictures are mounted, which is rather a good idea. Ihe pictures are thus brought within easy inspection'range. An exquisite marble group is in the center of

the smaller room, representing a young mother with a child climbing about her knee. She is nude to the waist. Tho podestal is volvet-covored, and surrounded by blooming plants. Across a corner of this room Is a desk table: it is littered with dainty writing tools and somewhat crowded with framed pictures and a three-leafed screen sot with a loti of family cabinet photographs, The table is lighted by four candlos, oach with a dainty shade, and placed hero and there on tho table. In tho corner back of the table is an enormous palm. The rooms are lighted by candles. The floors are Inlaid wood, and are strewn with rugs. Things are so arranged that little pathways load in and out abput the furniture, but it would never do to get lost in the Princess’ drawing-rooms at night. Como to think of it, maybe the rooms are all different now. They wore as I have described a year ago when I was in London. Possibly their boing cleared out is what has started the movement of our bric-a-brac in this country. The last picture gives a promenade costume capable of serving as a skating dress. As drawn here, it is an armoured sergo of a grayish green shade, trimmed with velvet of tho same color and with gray feathered trimming or fur. Thotakirt Is cut as usual on the bias, but is trimmed with a bias of velvet edge by a narrow band of feathered trimming. This bias is lined with muslin, hemstitched onto tho skirt and sowed on together witli the feather trimming. Tho upper part of tho skirt has the darts necessary to make it sot well on the hips, These darts arc very carefully sowed and pressed, in order to make them invisible. At the back the dress falls In folds. The bodice, which is joined to tho capo, dosconds some inches bolow the waist and the front breadths of it are lined. Tho yoke is of velvet odgo with feather trimming, to

which is adapted tho fold (hat crosses the yoko. This fold can ho either made in silk tho same shade as tho dress or in a different shade. It gradually diminishes as far as tho hdfck, where it entirely disappears underneath the cape. The vest is perfectly straight, is fashioned on muslin lining, without darts and lined with silk. In cutting the cape, as it is somewhat difficult, it would be better to try It in any worthless material first, so that thero win be no danger of spoiling the fabric. It is cut of a single pieco. The pleated sleeves are sewed onto the armholes of the waist and trimmed with a band of velvet. The cape may be wadded and lined with silk. Copyright, 1892.

A PELISSE.

A LIVE DOLL.

A CALLER.

IN THE PARK.