Democratic Sentinel, Volume 16, Number 39, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 14 October 1892 — END OF THE SEASON. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

END OF THE SEASON.

THE SUMMER GIRL'S REIGN IS NEARING ITS CLOSE. Beautiful Combinations for Luncheon Parties—The Tailor-Made Gown Comes Persistently to the Front— Preparing for Fall and Winter—Many Dainty Dresses. Some Popular Styles. Sew York correspondence:

IABHIONS are as changeable as a .woman’s fancies, say the men, but they were never more mistaken. Probably if a woman had the making of the fashions they might be a bit more unstable than they are, but as it is fashions are very much like physicians’ remedies which are never taken by the prescriber. A few years ago a celebrated French actress startled Paris by the beauty of her gowns, and the world gave her the credit of having designed them,

but the truth was they were the creations of her brother-in-law, a wellknown artist. Designing a gown is very much like painting a picture, only your colors are laid on dry. When Beau Brummel had created anew waistcoat he felt as if he had conquered a new world. Nor are fashions half as changeable as the men allege them to be. Take the gored skirt, for instance; It has been with us now for several years, and the Russian blouse, which came a year ago, is still in high favor, both as a mantle and a bodice. These charming bodices are usually of different material from the skirt. In one case I saw a very pretty gown for a young lady, the skirt being in black and pale-yellow silk, and the blouse bodice in mastic cloth and black velypt, and the broad belt of the striped silk. AN Ith the deepening of autumn foliage, the fashionable woman never fails to have visions of coming styles. To some these new gowns may continue to be the unsubstantial fabrics of a vision, rather than the beautiful stuffs thrown off by the art looms, yet when a woman wants anything she generally get it, and so I may assume that the reader is only waiting for safe counsel before venturing among the shoals and eddies of the whirl of fashion. Foulards stamped with large flowers, set apparently on the material without any regularity, are to be much used for indoor dresses. In making up these foulards. It Is customary to ornament the bottom of the skirt with an insertion of white guipure headed with a little ruche of the stuff. The corsage is pleated in front, gathered at the neck and set off with a lace insertion outlining the corselet. The elbow sleeve is of changeable velvet and is puffed as much as possible at the shoulder. The initial illustration presents a back view of a house gown in ecru crepon, the skirt being trimmed with two insertions of ecru lace run with mauve ribbons. The corsage has lace

braces and cascades of lace. The belt consists of four mauve ribbons starting in front and ending at the back with bows and long ends. Lace garniture will continue to be very popular for indoor gowns, not only as just described, but also in the shape of tiny flgaros and broad collars, as shown in my second picture. This charming garment, which is in the nature of a tea or reception gown, Is in yellow satin, front and sleeves of white crepe, and ribbon ruching to correspond with the satin. The skirt in front Is edged with a double flounce cf point d’esprit tulle, and the corsage is set off with a deep collar of cream lace. The prevailing modes this fall and winter will undoubtedly continue to draw inspiration from the early and late French epochs. For young girls nothing could be more becoming than the empire gown somewhat modified to suit modern nations. For older persons the Henry 11. collarette, plastron and upper sleeves in four puffs, will be much affected. The very stylish dinner gown pictured in the third illustration is in beige cloth, the corsage and border of skirt being embroidered with motives in terracotta. A lace bertha is crossed in front and drawn over the hips and tied in a large bow at the back. For street wear, skirts are no longer made with trains, the skirts of all walking dresses barely touching the ground. The plain, clo3e-fitting skirt remains undisturbed In its popularity, the only

trimming being on the edge. Draperies are still talked of, but seem no nearer realization than ever. It is, however, predicted that panels will get here before the draperies. Velvet sleeves are cut in the piece and so seamed as to fit close below the elbow. The high round empire sleeve will be seen In ball

dresses, especially when worn by young people. The high sash belt in several folds is not usually made up as part of the corsage of the dress, there being only a small extension to fasten over on the left side. Nowadays our ladies of fashion spend so much money on their footwear that they seem to have resolved that all this neatness and elegance shall not be lost to the world, and consequently they have hit upon a new way of raising the skirts when such an act becomes necessary. Theysaize both iha s’ I tand the underskirt, and lift them together on one side, rather to the front, and thus succeed in displaying the absolute perfection of fit and make which characterizes fashionable footwear. I have already spoken of the modishness of figured foulards garnitured witL guipure, and I’m quite certain that you will be pleased to examine the style and make-up of such a gown. My fourth pioture will enable you so to do. This elegant gown is charmingly 6et off with deep cuffs and fichu of cream guipureand a front of white silk muslin. Ths bottom of the skirt is finished with two narrow flounces with a pleated heading of the material. The tailor-made costumes come persistently to the front at this season or theyear, in widely different styles, sometimes with no basque at all, and thenagain with deep jacket basques covering the hips except just in front. The dress-coat style of bodice, with the tails varying to suit the particular kind of figure, will be seen on those Who delight in mannish make-ups. I doubt that the military plastron will become very popular, except possibly for figures which need building out. If the military plastron Is adopted It should be of lighter cloth, corded around and laid outside the bodice. The color of the plastron is quite a matter of taste. It may be either red, fawn, or Prussian blue, or white, and In velvet or silk Instead of the woolen material. As some one has said, the military plastron maji

serve to cover up a legion of Imperfections, that is to say, conceal a badly fitting front or hide the worn places of a last year’s garment. This winter ladies who take pleasure in entertaining will dispense their hospitality in the guise of luncheons, which have this advantage that they serve to display the beauty of table linen and service quite as effectually as a ceremonious dinner, but don’t cost half as much and are a great deal more enjoyable. As a rule, at these luncheons the gentlemen are conspicuous by their absence, a fact which prompts the hostess to make the affair dainty, delicate and particularly feminine—an arrangement in pink, or a symphony in pale blue. Gowns should harmonize, at least in the exclusion of all glaring tones and striking effects You will find In my last picture a gown suitable for such an occasion in striped veiling, the skirt being finished w.th a ruching and the corsage ornamented with a deep lace collar not forming part of the dress, and draped In the graceful manner indicated. The straight collar is also covered with lace: A broad ribbon sash completes the dress. The wide empire belt will be among the next season’s novelties. It is usually of gold embroidery, and the deep, tight-fitting cuffs are of the same material, meeting the very full upper sleeves at the elbow. The weather prophets assure us that all signs point to an open winter, and it may be that fur garments will not be called into requisition, at least until after the holidays. For weather of ordi-

nary severity the long Russian jacket will no doubt be greatly in vogue. It is made either with flaring or turn-down collar, and is somewhat shaped to the figure. It is double-breasted and has very large buttons covered with the material. This Russian jacket is more stylish than the reefer, so popular last winter. With it will be worn the jaunty tourist’s hat in French felt, trimmed with ribbon and set off with one or two rakish quills, making up a very fetching out-door costume. The ever popular pelerines come in well for October wear. They are made both double and triple and also in one piece, falling in graceful folds from the collars. The double form is usually made with a yoke which Is pointed at the back, and is trimmed with velvet. The material is cloth and the modish tonee royal blue and gray. These little garments have a great deal of style about them, when trimmed with cord or galloon. The ordinary cape is now made with an under part which fastens nearly the whole way down and thus renders this style of garment much more satisfactory for cold weather. This additional underpart may be of a material In a different shade, thus inincreasing the attractiveness of the cape, which should be so cut as to hang straight around the arms in order not to increase the width of the figure. A very pretty combination for one of these garments is cinnamon-brown cloth with dark-brown plush for the underpart, or velvet may be substituted for the plush. Copyright, 1892.

Fbederick Barbabossa. Emperor of Germany, was drowned while orossing a small river in Asia Miner, when on hi* way to fight the Turks.

TEA GOWN.

DINNER GOWN.

RECEPTION GOWN.

LUNCHEON GOWN.