Democratic Sentinel, Volume 16, Number 38, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 7 October 1892 — MODES FOR THE MONTH. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

MODES FOR THE MONTH.

SEEN IN THE SHOPS AND ON THE STREET. Openings Am Bather Late, bat DressMakers Are Busy with Novettles-Ar-tistie Neatness and Finish Is the Motto of Women of To-doy. Fashions f*r Fall. New York correspondence:

lASTERI ASTER Ro ber t Herrick sang of a “sweet disorder in the dress,” but the woman of to-day will none.of it. Artistio neatness and Jfinish is her motto. This we observe not only in the plainly severe tail-or-made, but in the carriage costumes and rich Indoor gown, garniture must not run mad or give any symptoms of "sweet disorders.” I’m forcibly reminded of this fact by glancing at the

high novelty of the moment—-the bodice with rovers, the material of which must be of the darkest shade represented In yourgowu. For Instance, if you select a plaid cashmere, the corsage must be “plain and' Haereverfireach well out bn the sleeve and have two rows of buttons. At the back the corsage has narrow ooat-tails with buttons. The distinguishing feature of this corsage is the broad, round, stiffened belt, narrowing at the back and passing under the coat-tails. The sleeves are tight-fitting in the “plain material, with a shoulder puff of the plaid stuff. There Is something very stylish about such a corsage with its silk plastron and large embroidered silk muslin bow at the throat. Its simplicity, nattiness and neatness make it very suitable, either for a traveling •dress or for a knockabout costume at the country club. With the deepening of October tints fashionable life sets its face toward that Charming institution known as the-ooun-’try club, by means of whioh people in ordinary'circumstances are enabled to enjoy a few weeks of country life dur-

Ing the deliciously crisp October weather. The sticky days are over, and there is real comfort in putting on a moderately heavy dress, which, fitting you like a glove and being shorn of ribbons, lyiches, and ruffles, brings out the beauty of your figure to Its very best advantage. There la no chance for the women to ask, as is so often their wont: “What do they do at the club?" for they are members of these charming clubs, where you walk, ride, and hunt during the day, and dance and play home games during the evenings, while a big log crqckles on the hearthstone, and the birch sticks send forth an odor more savory than any ever distilled by the perfumers. Every year the country olub takes on more of Importance in the world of fashion and cultured leisure. Here, in the clear autumn atmosphere, the toneharmony of a costume may be displayed with that admirable effect attained by hanging a picture on the line. Here, too. a woman of fashion may display not only her tailor-mades in all thoir elegant simplicity but she may exhibit her grace of form in a hunting ecstume, if she be an equestrienne, or In a carriage dress, if she must view tbe ’cross-country rlaers from her highbacked victona. I have some charming autumn jjowds to show you to-day, and even If yon should be so hard to please as not to accept any one as .a whole, yet rthese exquisite novelties can net fail togtve you a hundred useful points as to scheme of garniture and latest styles and make-ups. In my initial illustration you will find pictured .a vary fetching outdoor gown, a foulard stamped with flowerets, the skirt being ornamented with a deep flounce set off with an insertion of Chantilly laid upsn a ribbon of the tone of the flowerets. The corsage is pointed, front and back, and finished with a small ruffle, Tbe

lacs insertions of .tbe yoke and sleeves are made in tbe same manner as those of the skirt. There is a laee ruche at the neck and wrists. The out-door gown represented in the second illustration is likewise an altogether charming autumnal creation in chevroned cashmere \with embroidered dots. The bottom of the skirt Is garnitured with a broad band of the stuff, box-pleated, as shown, and between each pleat there is a boW of ribbon. This handsome gown should have no other trimming than that indicated. The belt closes at the back with a rosette. The

corsage also closes at the back, there being a box-pleat to hide the hooks. Corsages will, no doubt, continue to be trimmed with laoe and ribbon, out the scheme of garniture will be quite different from summer Btyles. The velvet collar and velvet shoulder puff* will be affected, the latter being pieced out by a lace sleeve caught In at the elbow. Closely pleated silk plastrons will be worn under coat-shaped oorsages, with broad corselet belts on stiff material well boned; and then, of course, there will be revers. I show you such a gown In my third pioture, a very lovely creation In silver-gray woolen, trimlmed with silk of a little darker tone and with galloon beaded with steel. The galloon borders the skirt in manner

indicated, and appears also on the revers and sleeves. The pleated plastron, revers, and puffed sleeves are of the silk. The oorsage is finished with dress coat-tails, and the stiffened corselet forms a part of the plastron. The straight ooliar is covered in front with the pleated silk, at the back with the galloon, which in a V-shape extends down to the middle of the back. Where the buttons are usually placed at the back you met two short pieces of the galloon crossed. There are strong Indications that the great designers will continue todraw inspiration from the picturesque oostume of the Kussians. It will be remembered what a success some of the Russian gowns had last winter. They are a very original people, as all the world knows, and in winter especially their long furtrimmed costumes are sure to find admirers. In my fourth pioture you will find presented a country club oostume, made with a long Russian blouse, over which is worn a vest of heavy blaok silk guipure, set off with gold and silver threads. At the back the vest Is In the form of a round yoke. The belt Is fastened with an old silver buckle. The bottom of the skirt is ornamented with a ru<;he made of two strips of the material folded together. At the back the blouse has three box-pleats below the guipure yoke; the stuff falling from these pleats is gathered at the waist. The blouse hooks down to about ten inches below the waist, below which it is sewed. It is put on over the head. There are gathers at the neck and at the waist, which are held in place by the belt. There is a galloon ooliar and cuffs with the same trimming. It is hard to say who Is the more to ba dreaded, the man or the woman with a camera; but there is this about it; In summer you may hide behind a dump of bushes when you see the camera fiend heave In sight, but not so In fall days when you hunt the sunshine on exposed highways. There Is no escape. She snaps her camera at you, and you are fixed forever like a butterfly pinned against the wall or some unfortunate

tad pole.off Hoard is alcohol, it la too bad that w« should he made to leave such lasting impressions against our will. However, possibly there are young men who would not object to be snapped at by such a charming-looking Head as I present in my last illustration. She looks so harmless that one ran hardly believe .she would be guiiiy of taking Jaek and Nellie in a pose which they might not want perpetuated. StiH, we are more interested in her costume than in her camera, for it is altogether charming, and does not necessarily call for a camera to make it go. This gown is made up io a striped and embroidered zephyr, the stripes being cream and mauve, and the" flowerets black. The skirt is cut bias and grazes the ground, and may be left quite plain or be ornamented with a ruffle fashioned from a double fold of ihe material. Inside the bottom of the skirt you put a satinette flounce. The blouee is made on fitted lining and hooks in the middle. The jabot-like ruffle falls almost to the wast, and is made from strips cut straight, as are also the puffed sleeves. For rough usage at the country club, such as nutting parties, mountain climbing, and the like, you need a gray or tan tweed, with which you wear no underskirts, but lu place of them a pair of tweed knickerbokere made pretty full and worn under the skirt, a sort of divided garment, which, however dress-reform-like It may sound when described, is admirably adapted for walking. The skirt Itself should be made up very plainly and should be finished all around to a depth of four inches with tan leather. Thus gowned you need not fear wind or weather. Copyright, ISW.

The Pharaoh of the Book of Genesis was long supposed to have been drowned in the Bed Sea, but recent examinations of his mummy showed that he had been killed by having his skull split open. ' Napoleon’s father was a citizen of very humble means.

A CHEVRONED CASHMERE.

DRESS COAT CORSAGE.

IN RUSSIAN STYLE.

STRIPED AND EMBROIDERED ZEPHYR.