Democratic Sentinel, Volume 16, Number 36, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 23 September 1892 — THE HATS THE THING. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

THE HATS THE THING.

you MUST respect the dictates OF FASHION. Bo Original In Any Other Article or Apparel, but Wear Headgear That Is Modlsh-Here You Find the Drop or Styles. 0 Now and Pretty. New York correspondence:

ICH and gaudy, for the apparel oft proclaims the man, said jPolonius. And he said well. But how about the woman? If kwe may paraphrase Pope and say, * Clothes make the man, the want of them the fellow,” may we also proclaim that the gown makes tha girl? I trow not. Victoria was in her night robe when she received

the deputation of noblemen who informed her that she was Queen of England. And yet it is affirmed that she looked every Inch a princess. Possibly; but I wouldn’t counsel any young lady tp make dangerous experiments in dress. Better conform in a general way, and have recourse to some certain article of your costume for the gratification of your vanity. But in making choioe of an affeotatlon be careful not to lay violent hands upon the style of headg'ear that may bo in vogue. Exercise your ingenuity in your gloves, your veil, your shoes, but wear the hat that happens to be modish. Prpbably no article of apparel is more subject to ridicule than tv hat, hence there’s a deep philosophy in Inat current Where did you get that hat? provided you put great emphasis on the “did. ’’ A mistake that many tall women are apt to make is to wear a very small hat, thinking thereby to disguise their great height, when in reality it has the very opposite effect—it accentuates it. The best way in the world to set off the lofty stature of a giant is to pat a dwarf beside him. No large woman should ever commit the error of wearing one of. those tiny theater bonnets. They are intended for the average-sized woman, and a tall, Stout figure is merely emphasized by setting three straws and a bit of ribbon on the top of such a towering aolumn of humanity. I have some very pretty hats to show you to-day, hatß that are suitable for the supplemental season—that indefinable space of time that lies so charm-

ingly between the end of summer and the advent of cold weather. Take, for instance, the piquant bit of headgear represented in my initial illustration, a beige straw trimmed with chestnut-brown ribbon, forming a large bow, the strings startinglrom the crown. Under the flaring orown, which is lined with velvet, there is set a bunch of ostrich tips to the left of the center. Somewhat in the tourist’s shape is the charming traveling hat shown in the second picture. It Is said that you never -know a person until you have traveled with him or her. Pin inclined to think there is much of truth in this remark. Anyway, you learn many things which you never would learn under any other circumstances, and first and foremost you learn whether the lady in question knows how to dress for traveling. Satth the preacher: “To everything there is a season and a time to every purpose under the heaven," but, strange to Say, in his enumeration he doesn’t mention a time for traveling. In those days, however, people didn’t go traveling so much as they do ita ours. Nowadays traveling is a necessity. If you stay at home you rust out, you lose touch with the world, you are little better than a hermit. But my advice to you is:' Don’t go traveling unless you are dressed for it, for if you do you’ll be sure to try your own and other people’s patience, too. To come back to this extremely natty and nobby traveling hat. It is of English straw garnitured with a veil of black tulle with embroidered edges, held In place by a jet agraffe. The tulle is so arranged as to fall a little over the brim, as indicated. At the back there is an aigrette of black feathers. Sunshiny days in October often bring out the fashionable girl in new fresh-

ness and beauty, Just as you often see stray roses and there on the bushes long after the crop has fallen, a snowy white shower of petals upon the greensward like May snowflakes. But if you look closely you’ll see that this girl is a genuine rosebud, that it was too early for her to bloom in July or August, and that she takes this occasion to thrust hor pretty head ©ut into the October sunshine. For suoh I present a lovely hat in my third picture. It is a white rice straw, with a lace butterfly bow and an aigrette of pink plumes, but I warn the full-fledged.*glrl to be careful how she seeks to prolong her reign. She had better give up the role of Juliet and try saucy Kate in the “Taming of the Shrew," or Pauline in the "Lady of Lyons." We can’t be eternally young, except In our hearts. "My dear child," said a watchful

mother, “yon dress too young. You must remember that you ar» nearly thirty." “True, mamma," was the reply, “but I feel just as young as ever." “That may be, daughter, but your feelings don’t, wear the dresses." A very stylish round hat la pictured iu the fourth illustratiou. The brim is turned up on one side and Is trimmed with black lace. On the left there Is a wired lace butterfly and aigrette. The crown is of orchids.

This fall the English walking hat will be much affectod, and turbans of all styles will be in vogue, particularly those with low square crown and the brim turned up of nearly equal width. The walking hats will have creased or indented crowns. Toques will be oval, some cone-shaped, and some the truncated oone. The ultra-fashionable will not bo content with anything short of the small stove-pipe crown, a style, by the way, not becoming to all faces. Plain-cut velvet will enter largely in all hat garnituro, and glace or changeable effects will be popular. In the line of feather trimming one novelty will be the flat bow of the Alsatian peasantry. The bow is made of the breast feathers of small birds pasted on

a foundation of cloth, or, you may carry out the Idea of the flaring effeot of the flat bow by mounting two wings on eaoh side of the bird's head. Bizarre enough will be the head of a small owl set between a pair of widely extended black flerce-looking wings. Mephlsto plumes In breast feathers and scales of jet and colored glass are certain to be greatly affected. Another unique conceit will be a mounting of breast feathers simulating a ram’s horn. Colors will he rich and elegant, and there will bo many vivid tints of green, magentas and red purples. Blaoks will be relieved by cherry and poppy reds, or in the reverse order. Very modish will be buckles and brooches in French gold set with mook Jewels, As ribbon garniture Is now made use of in dressing the hair, I show you such a coiffure in my last illustration, It Is very becoming to young people when the scheme Is artistically worked out. You divide the entire head of hair Into three strands, beginning at the forehead and extending to the nape. Then you take the middle strand and coil it a little to make a chignon, after which you take the strand on the right, twist it and bring it over obliquely, placing a bow of the ribbon on the side of It. You treat the left strand in the same way. The remainder of the center strand is then put up loosely, the ends being slightly orlmped. The position and effeot of the ribbon are Indicated in the picture. It Is more than likely that the muchbeloved short jacket will have a quietus put upon It this coming season. It has had a long reign of popularity, but with the coming In of cold weather there will be a strongly developed liking for the genuine long wrap. These garments will be long cloaks In good earnest, completely covering the gowns, and the material will be pure woolen richly lined with bright-colored ,silk. Velvet promises to be in high favor the coming season for dress garniture applied as bands, lapels, collars, cuffs,

yokes, and lower sleeves, the upper sleeves being in one or two puffs. The lower sleeve is usually left open a little a* the wrist, and then filled In with laee. Isa other cases It is widened so as to fall qjuite over the hand. Gauged ruches are tc» be worn both for corsages and the bottom of skirts. As usual, the new colors have fantastic names given to, tlVem, such as Paradise for bright yellojw, Eminence for deep red purple, B®.lamto for brilliant red, Argent, Nitckel, and Platina for three shades of gj-ay, and Floxlne for reddish lilac. iwz

TRAVELING HAT.

FOB INDIAN SUMMER.

FOR EARLY AUTUMN.

MODISH COIFFURE.