Democratic Sentinel, Volume 16, Number 34, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 9 September 1892 — WANE OF THE SEASON. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

WANE OF THE SEASON.

THE SUMMER GIRL IS DYING HARD, The Stylish Gowns Displayed by tho Dovotoes of Fashion at Stylish Resorts Some Becoming Outdoor Costumes— Suitable Children’s Dresses. Delightful Gausy Efleets. New York correspondence:

ILENDER figures, gloriously longkwaisted, and long ■ arms superbly set off w with the enormous puffs which have done duty as sleeves this season, will, if rumor proves true, disappear from the domain of Queen Fashion ere many moons. At last the dumpy woman is to have her revenge, and what an exquisite pleasure it will be to her to see her hated rival shorn of all power to fascinate the fickle throng that frequents the gayer walks of life. This -rumor is to the effect s*that the empire gown will be the only wear this fall and next

winter, that the shorter the waist, tho greater the hold the owner will have upon popular favor, that all this talk of long, flowing lines and linked graee long drawn out will be confined to artists’ studios, and that the dumpy girl with her chubby cheeks and plump figure will alone be in the mode and will catch the flying favor of the hour. Well, we shall see. It took more than one summer girl to make a season, and It may take more than a handful of plump beauties to make an autumn. I’m not going to bo rash enough to advise one of my fair readers to order an empire gown, not unless she contemplates attending a swell literary reception in October. It doesn’t matter so much where tho mistress of a literary salon sets her waist line, provided she keeps a good supply of puns, epigrams, and fine sayings on hand for impromptus. But this much I can safely say, that woolens will be worn plain, that stripes will be relegated to the sweet gone-by, and that black will again come Into favor fbr evening dresses. Prophets should never be rash in their predictions, and, as all signs fall in dry weather, so it frequently happens that no colors count until they have been adopted. The king is not dead yet, although wo are approaching so dangerously near to a change in the ministry of happiness. We are still under the regipie of sunshine and open air, henoe you will not expoot me to utter treasonable words

concerning wraps and autumn gowns. In my initial illustration you will find pictured a very pretty costume for an afternoon or reception, made up in a marble foulard, richly garnltured with Irich eoru guipure, forming a plastron In front. The belt Is composed of two broad ribbons hooked together. The lower sleeves are also of the guipure. The skirt is finished with a ruche at the bottom. In this particular material the changeable colors were gray and salmon, and the marbled markings white. All through September we shall have outdoor fetes, for the summer girl will die hard. She has no fntention of setting her dainty little shoes up in a line and marking them “Ichabod” before the time comes. I can’t blame her, either. Summer is such a delight that it often seems as if it never would come again. It is like a beautiful and satisfactory experience of falling in love, where two warm souls meet In June and go through July and August together. They are like the grasshopper: they dread to think of faoing the wintry blast, the rude gale and uncivil squall of snow. Anyone can be cold, grumpy, and freezing; it takes the summer girl to follow the example of the flowers and sunshine, and be beautiful In thirty different ways every month. I take pleasure in showing her as she still lives and moves and has her being. Take, for instance, the delightful creature as she appears in the second picture, wearing an exquisite "gossamer gown of which the overskirt is of embroidered ecru batiste and the under of mauvo silk. The former has two Insertions and a border of Irish guipure. At the waist there is a ribbon belting in the overdress. The corsage at the top has a crossed fichu of plain batiste. The epaulets ars of embroidered batiste, the bell sleeves plain, and the cuffs in

guipure. A white sunshade trimmed With laoe, white hat and white shoes oomplete a costume which is, in a word, a midsummer dream of fleecy clouds, just edged with color enough to show that autumn is near, and that tones will soon deepen as the plums take on a richer purple and the apples a ruddier glow. Another and a different look at the

■umm«r girl Is had in the third Illustration. She is olad in a lovely gown of silver-gray bengaline with embroidered muslin plastron, framed with an edging of jet to hide the lino of union with the bengaline. The aleeves aie finished with ribbon at theeflbow, and the lower sleeves are of muslin. Ribbon, belt, and skirt are finished with a narrow ruffle of the material. Said a charming girl to me at one of the fashionable watering places: "Why, I have heard and' read so much about this everlasting summer girl, with her July jollity and August agony, her walk and her waist, her brag and her braces, her gowns and her “go," and yet, where is she? All the girls I meet are built on the same lines as I am; they wear the same style of dress, talk like me, and act like mo." “Yes,” said I, laughingly, “thero’s a good reason why you oan't find the summer girl, a very good reason, and it is that you are she. You didn’t recognize the type, for you expected to find something different from what you had been looking at in your own mirror these many days. ” And that maiden went her ways marveling groatly. The fourth picture shows you yet another manifestation. This time wo lay hold of the thing—for it is so protean, so variable in form and so changeable in color as to merit the name of thing—as it appears when it alights upon solid ground and permits you to gaze upon it calmly. For the first you dlsoover what its hair is like, and whethor its nails have been polished, and how it looks in

an attitude of repose. The gown worn in this instance is altogether charming and delicate. It is a foulard of soft ivory, over which some fairy has scattered flowrets as bluo as corn flowers. The lace yoke is set around with a deep lace flounce, and the bolt is fashioned from a bias of amber-colored velvet. The sleeves have braokets of the velvet and lace ouffs. The bottom of the skirt is gamitured with three narrow pleadings of the material laid on ae indicated. Fan and shoes match. At many of the summer resorts this season I have been sti uck by the beauty of the oostumes worn by little maidens of 12 and 14, who, although still school children, are already growing restive over problems that have no human interest in them. Foreigners assure us that we have no children in our country, and I’m greatly Inclined to believe that they are right, especially when I see one of these same schoolgirls, so called, who would much prefer to witness a tug of war or a game of foot-ball between two sets of college boys than to read bow “Horatlus kept the bridge, in the brave days of old." In my last illustration I present such a child. Her costume is very pretty, and she wears it with a grace that would do credit to an older sister. It 1b composed of dark-blue and ecru linen. At the bottom of the skirt there is a deep band of blue material. The yoke, belt, collar and lower sleeve are of the ecru, embroidered. The puffed sleeves are of the blue. The blouse buttons on the left side, its folds being held in place by the belt. At the same summer resort I noted a very fetching sailor suit consisting of white serge waist and skirt, with paleblue sailor cuffs and collar, sash and long enas of the blue, and white sailor hat with blue ribbon. But now comes the original part of the costume. Across the front of the skirt a huge anchor and

colled rope were embroidered in blue, and the effect was very pleasing. With the very first cool breath of autumn air our thoughts will very naturally turn to the subject of headgear, for nothing goes so quickly out of fashion as a hat. Hence it may be advisable to have a word to say right here of the coming style in hats. During October it is quite likely that the cloth felts will be very modish, especially in soft shades of light-brown and tan. The shapes will run to toques and English country hats. There will be nothing very new about these first comers, for they will be quite independent of winter styles. They will be essentially round hate, qualified to bridge over the supplemental season, with nothing original or fantastic about them. In addition to these cloth felts, we shall have the late summer hat in black and pearlgray straw, trimmed with velvet bands and loops, and set off with oetrich tips. Young people who Intend doing the supplemental season will lay aside flowers for fruits and berries, worn wreathwise, and where feathers are used the popular “feelers,” simulated by cock’s feathers, will be sure to hold their place, the lower part of the quill being laid bare and only an oval bit of the extremity coming in sight. Copyright, lavi. Queen Victoria Is at her old tricks—-match-making—as fast as ever she can. The formal announcement of the betrothal of the Duke of York to his cousin is looked for daily by the anxious London fashionables, and a royal wedding in St George’s Chapel, Windsor, is prophesied for about next March 01 ApriL The Educational Society of Bosenhagen is the name of a society consisting of a number of citizens of Kosenhagen, N. J. Their object is the education ol the residents of the town in the English language.

LATE SOMMER

EARLY AUTUMN.

STAMPED FOULARD.

BLUE AND ECRU LINEN