Democratic Sentinel, Volume 16, Number 32, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 26 August 1892 — GOING, ALL BUT GONE. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

GOING, ALL BUT GONE.

THE SUMMER SEASON FAST CLOSING. Thoughts of Autumn Styles and Visions ot Theater and Opera Costumes Already Crowd the Fashion Devotee's BrainSome Valuable Hints. Styles for Late Summer. New York correspondence:

Going, going, an but gone! Such is the cry of fashion’s auctioneer, now en- __ gaged in selling off the few remnants of time in which the etpk devotee of modes Slr.to. may display any LuKWgowns of her sumoutfit yet rev \ maining unseen. VN \ With the end of \W\ I -^ u K ußt come i'll 1 r thoughts of autumn styles and visions fj “ of theater and opera I costumes. MeanI while, the fashionJ able woman is ,ij spending these U “remnants of time” to the very best i! advantage, and, if | the weather only continues pro pifl _„ tious, she will succeed in unfolding every feather of her ZZw Ray plumage before the season

eloses, and will return to town like a female Alexander, longing for more worlds to conquer, and, of course, for more dresses to wear. Said a summer girl to me the other day: “People call me pretty. Bah! its all nonsense. I simply know how to dress, that’s all. Manners make the man, but style makes the woman. Give me gowns enough, and I’ll turn the heads of a whole nation. AV hat would Harry of Navarre have been without his white plumes?’ The season will undoubtedly go out in a blaze of glory. Up to the last moment costumes will preserve their delightful gauzy effects. Sleeves will continue to swell, while lace, draped, pendent, festooned and cascaded, will cover the bodices, and ribbons wound around and around the figure will give the fair ladies of fashion the look of latter-day mummies, swathed up in gossamer tis-

sues, tied with ribbons and enwrapped to lace. In the initial cut you see one of the latest styles of scalloped lace berthas, surmounted by a chiffon collarette. The gown is a pink mauve crepe de chine. The sleeves are of mauve silk muslin, accordion-pleated, wding at the elbow with a ribbon band. Lace figaros in old Irish guipure are very modish. They must fit the figure, and there should be a broad ribbon belt in Scotch ribbon, cream, pink and green. In many cases sleeves are mere epaulets, below which there is a lace sleeve run with a ribbon at the elbow. Lace berthas are double, the first reaching to the bust line, and the second almost to the belt or corselet. Speaking of corselets, I may say that they seem quite as popular as ever. A new style is to have the skirt, corselet and sleeves of one material, and the entire top of a plain bodice closely covered with laee or guipure, with a deep frill of laee over the sleeve. The newest tailor-mades have cutaway coats, curving gracefully at the hips and falling to a moderate length in square tails. The swallow tails reaching almost to toe ground are merely a passing agony, and will not be seen this fall In town. In the matter of headgear there is apparent at times an inclination to run to the highly picturesque, but the persistence with which the broad-brimmed sailor hat has held Its place has really quite disconcerted the summer girl. She has considerable courage, but she does not care to stand up like Arnold Wiekelried, one against a thousand. For those longing for something picturesque, the large white chip hat, trimmed with long white ostrich feathers has

come in very opportunely. Gray hat* in the same line are likewise very becoming, there being two long gray feathers fastened in front with a small white wing and a crystal buckle. Instead of the wing, you may substitute a pointed bow of gray velvet ribbon. In my second picture I present a very pretty garden hat. The trimming is of pleated crepe set off with lace, and surmounted by a twisted roll of the crepe with a crest of the same material ornamented with a sprig of roses. A stylish traveling dress, something that should be in the summer outfit of every fashionable woman, is shown in the third illustration. It is made up in striped woolen material, lined with silk, the skirt on the inside being finished with a flounce of the same stuff as the dress. The pointed corsage has coattails, a velvet collar and revere of the woolen material. The vest may be buttoned to the corsage. The sleeves have flaring velvet cuffs. Such a costume as this comes in very well for knock-about service during the summer, and its masculine characteristics' give it a look of neatness and trimness very be-

coming to a good figure. With It may be worn a tourist’s hat In rough straw, as nearly as possible of the same shade as the dress. In no one particular does the well-dresstd woman show her good taste in always wearing the right sort of a gown on the right occasion than when traveling or moving about in public places. There is a great deal in thia. It enables her to preserve her nervous equilibrium under trying circumstances. It is astonishing how some women begin to fret and fume the moment they set out on a tourney. I attribute it largely to the fact that they are not properly dressed, they are too warmly clad, or they wear a dress that wrinkles or spots easily, and before they have gone fifty miles they present an untidy and inussed-up appearance. Not so the woman who is attired in a neat and suitable traveling dross. Nothing disturbs her serenity. The very dust refuses to stick to her, and at the end of her journey she alights from the train with a smile that is comforting to look upon. Her friends welcome her with greater cordiality, for they feel instinctively that she will tit Into the household and add to the general comfort of all. On the other hand, the woman who is sweltering in a heavy and unsuitable

dress loses her temper, her sachet, her baggage-cheeks, anil her patience, and usually succeeds in robbing other people of much of their comfoit, I once knew a woman who made a 500-mlle trip in a black velvet dress trimmed with black lace. There w.is not a person tn the same car who did not heave a sigh of relief when she reached her destination; they had been made thoroughly uncomfortable by her restlessness and peevishness. She had averaged ten questions ami fifteen complaints for each half-hour, and even then it had been necessary to toss her black bag out of the window to her. Next to the woman who knows how to travel is the woman who knows how to stay at home, by which I mean to show by her manner and dress that she is not on the wing, butthat she is really “stopping" at the hotel where she may be. You can always tell such a person by her dress. It Is the perfection of fit, and as restful to the eye as the color of the lilacs or the tones of the even.ag sky, I present such a character in the fourth picture. She is us you see her In the hotel parlor, which appears to be a room in her own home. She is one of those few peop.e who know how to dress when it really is a question what is appropriate to wear; that is, she is never under or over dressed. She la never known to mar a fete by com lag in too somber a gown, or to disturb a solemn occasion by making her appearance in yellow or pink. Here she wears a natty flgaro corsage over a silk blouse belted In with a broad oorselet, which, like the collar, is either embroidered or covered with passementerie. Her footwear is always of exquisite fit mad in perfect taste. You don’t meet

her wearing white kid shoes with a blaek silk gown, or russets with an elegant calling costume, or buttoned boots with a white flannel suit There will be no end of lawn parties as the season draws to a close. As two and three often take place on the same afternoon, the hostess ean only put "from 3 to 5” on her cards and trust to the strong desire of the summer girl to display her gowns to as many people as possible. Batiste is largely used for lawn party dresses, either stamped or embroidered. Mauve and white are favorite colors, ana Irish guipure the lace most used. The dress is usually cut in one piece, the folds being held at the waist by a ribbon belt, tied in front. At the top the corsage is composed of a crossed fichu In plain batiste, and the front of the dress is so trimmed with lace as to make the fichu look like a yoke. The epaulets are of the embroidered batiste, and the lower sleeves of the plain. The cuffs are of the guipure. I have still one more charming outdoor costume to show you, that pictured in my last illustration. Here you have a very picturesque gown for a lawn party, or for any outdo r fete. It is in pink crepon. The skirt is finished with two rows of broad galloon, through which you pass moss-green ribbon as indicated. Between the rows of galloon is placed vertical fancy stitching. The corsage has the same scheme of ornamentation. The broad ribbon belt has a band of the galloon at the top. The puffed sleeves are also encircled by a band of the galloon; below they are tight fitting. Copyright, 18*2.

GARDEN HAT.

TRAVELING DRESS.

AFTERNOON TOILET.

COSTUME TOR LAWN PARTY.