Democratic Sentinel, Volume 16, Number 30, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 12 August 1892 — MODES FOR MIDSUMMER. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

MODES FOR MIDSUMMER.

NEW YORK HINTS ON HOTWEATHER GOWNS. A Natural Desire to Display Summer Toilets Before the Cool Breezes Make Them Seem Out of Season—Future of the Trained Skirt. Woman's Clothes. New York correspondence: SB OVE all things; hold fast that which is good, ’’ doesn’t ap--1 ply to fashions, for 1 the reason that the j mistress of the modes glyes us no time to Drove anything, and the moment she discovers that her followers are becoming * attached to a certain style she forthwith changes it. Take, for instance, the present trained skirt, whloh makes all women look graceful; who can tell what moment the decree may' go forth that bell skirts must henceforth be the only wear and that they must absolutely clear the ground. Well, there is no use borrowing trouble. Hqgarthian lines of beauty now make the prevailing style of skirt a joy for the time being, and there is no wonder that the summer girl is reveling in its charming potency to transform even a dumpy figure into something almost slender and willowy. August is upon us, and there is naturally a rush to display summer toilets before the cool breath of September makes them seem out of season. Lawn parties now call for these daiuty creations in foulards, surahs, crepons, batistes, crepes and silk muslins, set off with laofl, chiffon, ribbons and velvets. Many of these gowns are enchantlngly beautiful, especially when tha Irrepressible summer girl gets Inside of one of them and gives you the idea that she was made for the gown and not the gown for her. How would you like a changeable foulard gold and green, sewn with white florets, with a bertha and flounce in old point? Or. would you prefer a Nile-green orepon 1 set off with white surah, with a belt composed of a; ribbon tied around the waist? Or, possibly, you would make choice of a mauve foulard, with an old guipure flounce and a white ribbon corselet? Or, might not an ecru batiste with white satin stripes, white belt and euru lace suit you better?

Well, whatever you choose, choose quickly, for summer Is more nimble of foot than stylish winter, and the fairer the day the more quickly It passes. The waterlng-plac* s are now in the very height of their glory, and the fair women who throng the hotel verandas and dawdle along the promenades, flltI ting in and out of the shops, are looking their prettiest. “Shops!" you exclaim in astonishment. Why, yes; that s one of the things you do at the springs. You buy trifles .and take as. long as possible to do It, a bit of ribbon, a pair of gloves, a box of candy, a bottle of perfume. The summer girl delights to go shopping, especially when her escort pays the little bills. It is so inconvenient at times to get at one’s pocketbook. If you do not believe me, watch the summer girls in front of a soda water fountain. The second picture presents the summer girl in shopping attire as she appears loaded down with the purchases of a whole morning. She wears a very pretty white multicolored crepon, made princess with flgaro in passementerie. The front Is ornamented with a bow wbh long ends. The deep cuffs are made over lining, likewise the collar. The crepon of' the corsage is stretched over ft lilted lining by using a dress form. The flgaro is made over silk of the shade of the ground of the crepon. It has been well said that a mirror tells more truths than are ever spoken, and I may odd that It presumes upon long acquaintance and speaks plainer and plainer every year. “Don't you think I look very old today?” asked a wife of 40, as she stood In front of her pier glass. “Excuse me,my dear,"replied her husband, “I always make it a point to agree

with a lady. Ask the one in front of you. For the third picture you will find a charming gown for the woman no longer voung. You may fix her age; a woman has the privilege of being quite as young as s e can look. This costume is a g;ace surah, aid its Jacket corsage has a pleated plastron of white lace ending in a point at the waist. At the back the jacket has box plait, which separates t> let the skirt pass. The corsage is held in place by silk embroidery, which also appears in the skirt in two rows.

Another very charming costume for the morning hour may be made up of a white flannel skirt, pale pink and white silk blouse, and very full sleeves having deep guipure cuffs, and a laoe yoke cut in oval shape, and run with white ribbon that is tiad in a series of little bows from the bust to the throat. With this was worn a sleeveless jacket or vest, white flannel with white moire lapels. A white sailor hat, trimmed with thickly ribbed white ribbon, a torsade of washing silk like the blouse and a couple of white wings in front, turned right and left, Meroury fashion, complete this altogether lovely little costume for the early hours of the day, fresh, crißp, and dainty j»s q roes!;ud, or half a dozen rosebuds, for that matter. I have still another promenade costume to set before you. You will And it in my fourth illustration—a gown intended for that same lady who pleads guilty to thirty, hut throws herself on the mercy of the court for everything over and above that figure. It is s brocaded foulard, the skirt being trimmed with a double-beaded rutile

separated by an Insertion of laoe. The jacket is double in front, the under part being covered with a crossed laoe fichu; the upper part hangs straight, and is fitted to the figure by means of a single dart. This part is silt into tabs and filled in with lace, which at the back forms a double cascade. The crossed fichu is ornamented with a ribbon belt, which is fastened on the left side with a rosette and has long ends. The sleeves are set off with laoe insertions as shown. Wraps are often needed for chilly evenings. and they are frequently triple capes in fawn, beige, crimson and blue cloth, finished around the nook with a very full ruching or ruff of velvet. For ordinary wear, serge holds fast to its wonderful popularity. Gream serge makes up in very fetching stylos, with Eton jackots turned back from a plain tight-fitting plastron, ornamented with crimson embroidery around the neck, waistline and coat lapels. This coming autumn you will see the glorification of the tailor-made • girl. Her full-skirted three-quarter length cost, with high collar in Jacobin style and silk-faced lapels of enormous size, set off with its jabot of embroidered silk, will give her a distinction that will be absolutely impressive. But for the moment none of this. The summer girl reigns supreme. Bhe knows her power and exercises it at times like a true tyrant. I heard of a case where she refused to attend a lawn feto unless the silk trimmings were changed so as to harmonize with t]ie tone of her costume. To give a lawn fete and not have this splendid creature for its presiding divinity would have been like giving an outdoor representation of “As You Like It” with the ever fair and glorious Rosalind left out of it. Bo the mistress of the house gave orders to have the silk ornaments changed at once. I have still another outdoor costume to lay before you. This time I turn back to the young people again, for, after all, they are the real rulers; the younger they are, the more despotlo

they are. Said a summer girl to mo the other day: “If I had only known mamma before she became so sot In her ways I could have Improved lu r wonderfully. It’s a hopeless task now. I must take her as I find her." Well, as to that other outdoor costume, you will find It represented In the last picture. The shirt is of chamoiscolortd' cheviot,' and the blouse is a foulard w.th a large Japanese figure. The corselet belt, the collar and the shoulder bands are of plush or velvet. The bolt must be made upon a Arm lining and be boned. The scallops of the skirt are bordered with bias strips of the silk. The skirt is made with u demltraiu. You may choi se any light woolen material for the skirt, aere(o i or Indian cashmere, lined with satnette. The blouse in this style of oostume may be made in Scutch si.k, surah or batiste. When using the batiste, mike with a turn-down Collar and man’s tuffs. A neglige tie goes with (his style and a leather belt. Now that the season for regattas is at hand, the summer girl may exercise her ingenuity and good taste in devising boat a 4 costumes. Blouse and sash of black and white figu ed fouler ! goes well with u black merveilleux skirt. Of course, rough blue serge is the proper material for a boating party, made uo strictly in sailor style, w.th a vtry deep cellar of white darnel, trimmed with dark blue braid and tied with a blue silk knot. In some cases the bodice is set off with square zouaves opening in front to display a poppy-red silk shirt, and trimmed with long go d buttonholes and little rou id gold buttons; coat tails trimmed in theranme manner. The skirt is left quite plain, save thiee rows of gold braid at the bottom. copyright, ism. In Michigan a double cedar knot is carried in the pocket to cure rheumatism, and in New Hump-hire men carried a gall from the stems of the golden rod for the same purpose. The new minister— l hope you pray every da /to be bett r? Jhe belle— Oh, dear me, no; I am so good now I’m • bore to my friends.

SHOPPING ATTIRE.

A QUACK SURAH.

FOULARD WITH LACE INSERTIONS

SILK BLOUSE AND CLOTH SKIRT.