Democratic Sentinel, Volume 16, Number 29, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 5 August 1892 — COOL SUMMER SUITS. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

COOL SUMMER SUITS.

DRESSES ADAPTED TO TORRID WEATHER. The Summer Girl Has Formidable Rivals In the Xounc Married Woman and the Stylish Young Widow—Charming Style* and Striking Simplicity. Gotham Fashion Gossip. New Tork correspondence:

SUMMEB poets and seaside correspondents have great difficulty this season fl in describing the ' j dresses worn by the / ultra-fashiona b 1 e s V on acoount of the delicate colors —indefinite in tone and impossible in classify fleation. One must be an expert to give B|v\ names to what is ||jvl called a “faded nWVI pinkish flesh tint,” (•aw a “faded crushed l raspberry,” or to \ distinguish between k silver, nickel or HR platinum drabs. L jE\ Greens and reds, wffgSwtoo, defy definition, and one is only ft' mystified to be told that a gown is an

“indefinite moss green.” However, some of the mdgt charming summer girls dress with simplicity, apparently being of the opinion that a pretty face and a graceful figure are the things that count in the gay empire of modes. For instance, I see very stylish young girls wearing blue serge skirts with white blouses and colored ties and smull white sailor hats trimmed with ribbon to match the tie. In one case I noted a black skirt and white blouse set off with a blue tie, and in another a white serge skirt, blue blouse and white hat, trimmed with blue ribbon. Still anothor charming white serge gown had around the waist and around the bottom bias folds of dahlia red faille, edged with tiny ruches of black ribbon. The bodice was set off with a very small Henry II cloak of dahlia silk, just falling between the shoulders and hardly reaching the waist. The cloak was lined with white satin and edged with tiny black ruohing. The summer girl is not having it all her own way by any means. The voung married woman and the stylish young widow 7 both constitute very formidable rivals at times. The summer girl may toss her pretty head and affeot to despise these poachers on her fair domain, but the world gets tired of tinkling cymbals and shrill pipes, just as children tire of sweet cake and yearn for a big slice of plain bread and butter. You will find pictured in my initial one of those rather heavy and ornate gowns which make the soft and fluffy habiliments of the summer girl look somewhat cheap

and tawdry. The skirt Is elaborately embroidered with jet; in fact, I notice a frequent use of jet trimming on summer gowns, noth on light and heavy tissues. Even such thin material as grenadine is often trimmed with jet and ribbon, the jet ornaments being butterflies. The girl of this season has another nightmare which occasions her not a little trouble, and that Is the tiny maid of twelve or thirteen who Is taking her first lesson in coquetry. It seems ridiculous at first thought that she should fear such rivalry, but she knows the old saying that Time cures youth and sorrow, and even by the end of the season one of these little misses might become almost a full-fledged young lady. Airs and graces are like mushrooms—they spring up in a single night. Fashion is a genuine fairy queen, and she has only to touch the little country girl with her ■wand in order to transform her into a eity belle. My second illustration presents a pretty picture of summer life, and might be entitled, “Morning and Midday.” ft is a great consolation fora woman of fashion to feel that her scepter will not be suffered ta drop to the floor and tarnish with age, that a fair daughter will soon be able to pick it up and rule the same empire made glorious by her mother. This little princess may play with balls now, but how long will it be before she will toss men’s hearts and iaugh at their rebound? Here she is dressed in a plain little morning frock of ecru linen, set off with yoke, and epaulets of coarse guipure, while her mother wears a stylish blouse trimmed with embroidered galloon with belt and collar of moire ribbon, which on the neck forms a bow at the back. The

cuffs and bottom of the basque are ornamented with a small pleating. Tills blouse may be made up in almost any material and color to suit. As many make U6e of the summer months for traveling purposes, you will, no doubt, be glad to have me say a word about a very pretty traveling dress for a young person. You will find it shown

in my third picture. It consists of skirt, open jacket and blouse, the materials being lawn tennis woolen, cream foundation, striped with red and yellow, and Scotch plaid silk in which red predominates. The .blouse is belted in with a band of gold galloon, and the collar is also covered with the galloon. The jaoket hangs open and the skirt grazes the ground. Crepons are extremely modish for outdoor costumes, races, rowing and sports of all day. At Monmouth Park I saw a charming costume in fawn-coiored ctepon, yoke and cuffs of pink satin overlaid with guipure, with a black chip hat trimmed with black and pink. Blue serge is also seen at the races and outdoor fetes set off with bright-colored shirts. During August there will be a legion of garden and lawn parties given by those fortunato to have a lawn to meet upon and purses deep enough to pay for the expensive accessories. Theie will be an effort made to give plays In the op6n air, but I predict a failure if dependence be made upon amateur talent, for the summer girl has her head too full of frills, flounces, and furbelows to admit of committing a part to memory. She is an artiste; she never forgets her cues, never comes in at a wrong entrance or mars her business; she is so ready with her own lines that she stands in no need of other people’s, and she dresses her parts to perfection. She will be a great success at garden barties, I predict, but not in amateur plays on the green sward. She likes the winding paths and shrubbery, but most of her conversation is in stage whispers. My fourth illustration represents a very charming gown in gautred crepe in a shade of heliotrope, the stripes being

velvety and reddish-brown. The yoke is of guipure of old laoo color, embroidered with gold. The dress must be lined with changeable taffeta, and there must be a balayouso. The corsuge hooks at the back. This is a very original and striking gown, bqt to bring out all its possibilities the draping must be artistically done, making ÜBe of a dress form for that purpose. White is everywhere, and especially at the raoes, with variations in ecru and creamy tones. 'As for the rage in scarlet and crimson, which was predicted early in the season on account of their success in the old world, it has not come, the reason no doubt being that with our almost tropical sun, the glare would be too trying, both to the wearer and the looker-on. I hsvo waited In vain, too, lor the red shoes and red silk stockings that were to be so much the fad at summer resorts, but August Is not here yet, and the fashionable girl may yet startle us with novelties. A week at a summer resort Is like a whole month in dull town life; men come and go, women appear and disappear, und It seems to you that you iinvo seen a generation pass, so many, and so varied are the faces, forms and fancies of people who frequent these places. At the seaside resorts in and about ihe metropolis ono sees so muny novolties as fairly to bewilder the senses, and the question suggests Itself, “Who is it that has the time, the patience, and the skill to invent, to oombine, to embellish in so muny countless varieties, for the same style of dress on twelve different women will present twelve different sohemes of garniture?" A charming seaside gown is shown in my last picture. It is in two colors of sergewhite, and any tone to suit the coloring of the wearer. The jacket und biaa

band encircling the skirt are of white serge, the skirt being of the colored. The garniture is of a braided effect. The jacket has double fronts, the under reaching only to the waist and hooking in the middle; the upper fronts have no daris. In this costume white and mauve would go charmingly together. Mauve is very modish this season, or rather what they call mauve, which, however, Is not always the pale shade of violet that rightly goes by that name. Silk blouses clos ng In front with gilt buttons and made with turn-down collars exactly like the neglige shirts of the men, are worn by young girls who take pleasure in doing as their brothers do. With this blouse you wear a four-in-hand tie. In some cases this garment is made with an elastic go that the bouffant falls over the belt. If you wish to carry out the mascuilno conceit, you must wear over this blouse a long ja ket decidedly man fashion. Ti e jacket has no darts in front, and falls quite straight. Buttons, pockets and make-up are in strict conformity to masculine fashions. Such a costume looks very well in coarse green serge. It is quite noteworthy to what an extent feathers are worn this season, true, In nowise to ihe exclusion of flowers, but the decree seems t j exact that none but seasonable flowers shall be worn. Veils continue to be the subject of much thought. It Is no longer permissible to wrap your face up in any bit of gauze. The mouo of the moment calls for a very light and transparent veil, and of the same color as the hat. The pins, too, used to hold veils in place must not be the cheap product variety store,but the work of your ieweler. A won an’s toilet has been called a un'on of a thousand tribes, This may be so, but many of those trifles cost n oney, nowadays, and the womau of fashion fin s that her pin money gees literally for just what signifies. Copyright. MW.

A queen farmer ne v er want* * green house.

MIDSUMMER STYLES.

SUMMER TRAVELING DRESS

CREPE WITH GUIPURE YOKE.

BRAIDED SERGE COSTUME.