Democratic Sentinel, Volume 16, Number 25, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 8 July 1892 — WHAT WOMEN WEAR. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

WHAT WOMEN WEAR.

SOME HANDSOME MIDSUMMER GOWNS. The Fashionables at the Summer Resorts Making Frantic Efforts to Outdo Each Other—Becoming Costumes for the Street and House. Seasonable Styles.

AS the summer resorts unfold their short-lived glory, there will be a scramble on the part of the ultrafashionables to outdo each other In \ the quaintness of ?, \ their costumes and \ in the novel effects | /“of their wateringI / place make-up, and '/ midsummer will be ' sure to bring its mania, writes our ft. New York Correia spondent. It is a little too early to predict exactly

what that mania will be, but it now looks as if it might run in the line of hat’ crowns, and that we shall, ere many moons, t see tho summer girl ducking her head to get her towering sugar-loaf safely through the doorway. Another novelty to which I should call the attention of the men folks is the perfumed underskirt. It really seems to me as if the young men are all destined this summer, if not to die of a rose in aromatic pain, at least to be stifled with the sweet odors which tho summer girl will leave in her wake. The perfumed, or sachet, underskirt is easily made. All you have to do is to ran bands of silk under the lace flounces and stuff (hern full of perfume powders—orris, verbena, lavender, lilac —and the thing is done; and you’ll leave behind you a trail of savory odors. But imagine the effect of several hundred of these sachet underskirts in a crowded ball room, in which tho swaying of these garments will cause them to distribute their perfumes in greater abundance? It does look as though that delicate creature, tho dancing dude, were really in danger of being suffocated with sweetness. At this season of the year a woman’s thoughts are concentrated upon outdoor effects. Tho sunshade is such an effect. When it harmonizes thoroughly with a costume, the result is most pleasing. In my initial illustration the sunshade

is in harmony with the underskirt and sleeves. In this costume the underskirt and tight sleeves are of a ri h faille franchise, and the bodice, overskirt, and puffed sleeves of striped wool crepe. The collar, tab, and belt are of fine gold gimp. You r> ay make this gown up in dark and light heliotrope.

Nothing can be prettier than a stamped foulard for a young person, and nothing more appropria'e for summer wear. My second illustration pictures such a gown. The skirt has three ruffles made of bias stripes. The (harming little guipure figaro is outlined with ribbon set off with a double bow, as indicated. It is exactly the same at the back. Thero is also a ribbon belt, the sleeves parrying out the same scheme of garniture.

The Eton jacket has developed into one of the rages of (lie moment, but very few of these garments are Eton except in name. The true Eton has small close sleeves, and should invariably be worn with a sleeveless vest, for if you make its sleeves large enough to go over an ordinary gown, you have no longer an Eton coat. The true Eton has tailor-made turn-down collar and lapels. Nor should it ever be made use of as a wrap for muffling up purposes. This is ridiculous. The correct summer girl never such a mistake. Her Eton coat is merely a separato bodice which she wears over different vests and matches her skirts, while the vests run in different materials. The coat must fit the figure snugly. To do this, the vests should have long openings for the straps to pass through. My third illustration presents another very prettily designed figured foulard, with a deep lace flounce and lace basque,

ribbon corselet and puffed sleeves, also banded with ribbon. This gown may be made up very stylishly jn taffeta glace. I see some very tastefully designed i surah blouses, and there will, no doubt, i be a goodly array of them at the sum- I mer resorts. They are inexpensive and dressy. Pale-blue is a favorite color, I with very short basques, and either a:; belt of the same material or one of the fancy belts now so modish. The turn- i down collar and deep epaulets are in ecru lace. Such a blouse should button ! tn frost with gold studs.

The morning costumes at the fashionable summer places have a great deal of dash about them. In fact, that is the study of the modish maiden. She doesn’t care so much for a pretty face as for a fine figure, good carriage, and a certain air of sureness of self. Everything about her is scrupulously well made. She abhors slouchlness as nature does a vacuum. Take her in her blue serge; from beneath her skirt peep out her dainty russets, while her Eton fits her like a glqve. Its left lapel set off with a boutonniere, genuine manfashion. Her vest, in Bome perfectly becoming color, is set off with a deep chevron of guipure, and her neat leather belt, fawn color, accentuates the small, round, supple waist, while from the flaring projecting brim of her Hogarth falls her dotted veil, drawn in graceful folds under her chin and tied a$ the back with its long enis fluttering in the morning breeze. Such is the dashing girl at the Springs, out for a walk on the public promenade. She knows she is perfection, and she has no difficulty in making you think so, too. My fourth shows a simple but always

popular summer gown, the muslin delaine. The bodice simulates a jacket, and appears to open on a pleated front. At the waist there is a large bow with long ends. The bottom of the skirt is set off with pleated flounces. There is no doubt a vast difference between the woman who merely dresses neatly, and tho woman who dresses with an object in view, namely, to render herself attractive to the looker-on. No woman is so handsome that she can afford to spurn tho aid of modiste and milliner, and no woman is so witty that she can shine when negligently or unbecomingly dressed. Her. puns may be good, but look at her puffs; her epigrams may be brilliant, but look at her ruchings and pleatings; her learning may be astounding, but look at tho fit of her bodice, look at the bang of her skirt. She certainly must have been thinking out the plot of a play while she was dressing. There is art in dross, and, while it may be to a degree like the lay of Shelley’s “Skylark,” “unpremeditated art,” it is only so in a very slight measure, but like all art it must be acquired by study, observation and reflection.

In my last illustration I set before you a charming toilet for a Saturday night hop, which may be made up in any filmy, gauzy material, the cutout being trimmed with lace, as shown. The ribbon corselet ends at Iho side seams; at the back there is a Watteau bow with long ends. If made up in pale blue, a passementerie band of silver crosses the bust and meets at the back under the bow.

The la 'ed Swiss bolt is a very pretty novelty in leather of various colors. At the back and teont, the two pointed edges are laced with a silk cord. Od each side there is a buckle. This belt goes with silk vests and blouses, so much worn at summer resorts. The lacing cord shou’d be tied at the bottom.

Crepons are much affected by young girls. They are usually made up of a deep chicory ruff on the bottom of the skirt, crossed bodices, double puffed sleeves,, deep cuffs and corselets, the latter being invariably trimmed with three rows of narrow ribbon, brought

down to a point on the right and fastened with a bow; same scheme of trimming on the cuffs. From what I can hear even young ladies who adore athletics and discuss the points of a game of base-ball will zealously guard their complexions this summer. The tall, slender, pale, refined girl is in fashion this season, and her powder box will be much in evidence even on boating parties. The reason of this is that complexions must be kept in harmony with the delicate tones Of fabrics. I hear it whispered that the young men have resolved to adopt gray as their fashionable color. Why? Because it doesn’t show riee powder. Traveling dresses are made up in soft woolens, the skirts being fully gored, lined with satinet and finished' with a ruehing on the inside. The corsages are pointed in front, have dress-coat tails, and large revere, with a turndown velvet collar. Small flaring velvet cuffs add a finish to the leg o’mutton sleeves. The vest is s parate oi mav be buttoned to the Piling of the corsage. The skirt is gathered at the back. The British Surgeon General writes in defense of the opium traffic which England persists in thrusting upon the Chinese. He even says the Chinese have been benefited by it, that they were formerly addicted to alcohol intemperance, and ho considers that the effects of opium are less degrading. The opium eaters do not engage in brawls or jump on their wives, nor become dangerous victims of delirium tremens. In Germany in spite of the tendency to restrictive laws, there is a provision for trade-freedom, meaning liberty to carry on any trade or profession whatever. Though the government prosecutes all those who use the title doctor or physician illegally, or without due authorization, many a one is permitted to treat the sick who does not himself represent his titles or abilities.

A PRINTED FOULARD.

LACK-TRIMMED TAFFETA.

A MUSLIN DELAINE.

DANCING GOWN.