Democratic Sentinel, Volume 16, Number 23, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 24 June 1892 — COOL JUNE COSTUMES. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

COOL JUNE COSTUMES.

RICH COLORS ARE LAVISHLY DISPLAYED. Be Gorgeous or Ton’ll Be Commonplace” Is the Motto at the Summer Keaort This Season Handsome LuceTrimmed Reception Dress, etc. New York Fashion Letter.

S I halt in front A of the show windows and look upon the quaint types of k headgear bearing y. ■ such names as Mother Goose, Nek Mother Hubbard, Welsh Peasant, y- Hogarth and Mephis to, awaiting patiently their turn \'t for some dainty girlish head to I co me along and nestle under them, I’m almost 1 n - dined to think that this fondness tor tho quaint and picturesque is tho

first symptom of discontent, the first manifestation of dissatisfaction with tho upstanding, bristling, crisp and perky styles of dress that have now prevailed for a number of years, and that mayhap the gracious Queen of Modes is on the point of decreeing a return to the long, tho loose and tho flowing, to scoop and scuttle bonnets with frilled fronts, to short waists and, oh, dear, even to shawls again, writes our New York correspondent. Think of it! But of ono thing be assured, if we do go back to shawls they will never bo worn in the old way, never, but tho groat designers will fold and drape them in some artistic style, and we shan't look so shapeless ancUungirt as one might imagine. However, for the passing moment a woman must strive for ourvo and contour, and, above all things, must Bhe display figure, by which I mean waist. It need not run to waspish slenderness, but it must be there, and pleats or folds and cascades must be transparent enough to let its glory shine through. In my initial illustration you seo this accentuation of the figure by means of corselet. The material of this dress is a crepon,

and there is a lace collarette and a lace flounce. The deep cuffs and the corselet are of silk of the same tone as the deepest stripe of the crepon. The cuffs are embroidered. At the summer resorts the motto this season will be: Be gorgeous or you’ll be commonplace. Never before have my eyes rested upon such rich colors and so lavishly used. One bright tone is not enough, but it must be shot or ribbed with another of equal intensity. But if you d n’t choose to display these brilliant tones in your gowns, you may show your colors by wearing silk underskirts of bright hues and charming make-up, and these you may display with all the coquetry you are mistress of by raising your dress as you trip along the verandas or go out on the promenade for your morning wn[k. Silk underskirts are to be the only wear, batiste and luce aro only admissible with dance toilets, and even then they may be replaced with white silk. You will And an elegant dinner or reception dress pictured in my second illustration, a green satin trimmed with Chantilly lace —ft very charming combination for a woman no longer young. The prevailing style of round bodices over which the skirt fits and the use of corselets or high sashes, flat or folded, the whole being set off with a dainty flgaro or natty bolero or a trim waiter’s jacket, all go to show that the long,

slim, trim figure Is to be the summer favorite, and woe betide the poor girl who falls into the category of dumpy. She will be obliged to use all her powers of fascination to keep pace with this sprite of the fashion plates, who looks so superbly tall and willowy. But some girls succeed in spite of such a drawback as a dumpy figure. There is no waiter’s jacket, no matter how becoming it may be, that can offset a pair of fine eyes or fill the place of a satiny skin with the glow of the peach in the cheek and the red of the cherry on the lips. These little jackets, of which I have spoken, look well in contrasting material or in guipure, black or white, lined with color. To attain the full possibilities of these charming little garments, you need some sort of a tasty front of cobwebby stuff that will melt into your coloring. The invention of the electric light has not only added to the effulgence of the Summer fete, but it made it a thousand times more enjoyable by Illuminating the ball-room without heating it. The young people may waltz with some comfort- and also feel that the delicate combinations of color in their toilets are preserved in their exact tones. These are things to be thankful for. But the young people don’t have It ull their own

way at these hotel hops. They are the soft and tender petals of the heart of the rose; on the outside come the larger and grander leaves, with a deeper glow and a richer texture. I refer to those married women whose feet, alas, have grown just a bit too heavy for the springy measures of the modern dance. They must content themselves with looking on and rememberiug the days when they only weighed 125 and walked the earth with a fairy tread. In my third illustration I set before you a charming gown for an evening fete. It may be made up either in silk or satin. The Watteau effect should be in watered satin and the skirt rucking may be in feathers or silk-headed with galloon, which also eiloircles the bodice. The sash closes at the back under a rosette, and the lace forms epaulets and short sleeves. Tho skirt is gored and must be glove-fitting at the hips. If tho shoulders bo narrow tho lace epaulets should be set on very full to gain width. But not all women go to summer resorts for a life of excitement; some go there to rest, for a change of air, and,

strange as It may sound, for a quiet time. A woman may grow too stout to danoo, to ride horseback, or take long walks, but there is no reason why she should lose her taste for dainty attire and all the flimflams of modlshness. If a woman converses well, she needs a quiet place to show off her abilities. She can’t talk a trombone down, or even compete with two violins and a bass viol. Such a woman is very apt to love tho soft and gracoful attire of tho boudoir or drawing-room. My fourth illustration pictures a very charming morning gown made up in a flowered woolen stuff with an embroidered front. At tho back thero is an embroidered plastron with a Watteau pleat on each side. Tho loose fronts must bo lined with silk. The silk cuffs have an undersleeve of laco with an olastlo. The front may bo made of flowers of muslin embroidered with colored flowerets.

The Russian blouso, In colors that will rival the gorgeous poouy and outshine the dazzling poppy, will be a great favorite with the young folks at summer resorts, and it will behoove them to keep clear of country barnyards, lost they excite the ire of the pompous turkey cock. The girl in a blouso is really quite an end of the century production, for the garment slgnlllos that the wearer belongs to that class of womahood known as the emancipated. As a rule, tho girl in a blouse flouts the Idea of a male escort, unless, of course she wunts him. She scorns to be dependent upon an outstretched male hand at ovciy turn. She is usually woll up in athletics, and has even mastered the abracadabra of a base-bull score. Jn my last illustration I gave you un excellent view of the girl in a blouse, and to look at her it would take very little lmaglna-

tion to conclude that she had come over the fence rather than away around through tho gate. This blouse is of surah, has no seam at tho back. The velvet ribbon simulates a Swiss belt. Tho lower piece extends around to the back, the ends crossing. The lace collarette has a velvet ribbon border which ends in a bow at the back; tho deep cuffs should bo covered with lace. If it really be true that straws show which way the wind blows, then It might be as well to bid our summer girls a long farewell, for there Is no predicting where their hats will lead them. “To lunacy!” I hear some crusty old bachelor exclaim, but not so, for there’s plenty of method In all this madness. These curious bits of headgear are all springes to catch male woodcock, and tho cup and saucer hat is the very latest novelty In this line. Tho brim Is the saucer and tho crown the cup, the latter being filled with tall daffodils or tulips, or with even an entire plant of a dandelion, But in some the flowers—roses or double violets devoid’ of stems and foliage—merely fill the cup crown. Anyway, the cup and saucer hat is a pretty piece of fantastic headgear for a round, girlish head with a saucy face in front of it. As usual, the fashionable girl will follow the natural precession of flowers, starting out with buttercups, daisies, dandelion, and fruit-tree blossoms, later in tho season reveling in rosis, and still later decking her hat with the fruits and berries. It is quite safe to say that the pancake or-flat effects in hats have seen their last days. The tall crown smothered 1n flowers has quite wiped it out of existence.

True moderation is neither tame, insipid, nor languid. It calls upon all the energies and all the powers of our nature for its development; it make us not less, but more, manly and womanly; not less, but more, determined and resolute; not less, but more, hopeful and enthusiastic. It is not for age alone, when the passions may have cooled and the energies abated, but for youth also, when they are warm and strong. It embodiee the force and vigor of youth, the wisdom and judgment of maturity, the calmness and experience of age. Mme, Patti, replying to an interviewer, declared that alcoholic stimulants of any kind tended to irritate the throat, and should be entirely abstained from by those who wish to cultivate singing. “How does it happen that the Rev. Worldly performs the marriage ceremony for so many old maids?” “Oh, ha always asks them in an audible tone il they are of age, and they all like him.* It Is a statistical fact that the wicked work harder to reach hell than the righteous do to snter heaven.

LACE-TRIMMED RECEPTION DRESS.

MORNING GOWN.

SILK BLOUSE.