Democratic Sentinel, Volume 16, Number 22, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 17 June 1892 — INCOME AND DRESS. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

INCOME AND DRESS.

HOW TO EFFECTUALLY FIT THE ONE TO THE OTHER. Hie Craze of the gammer tn the Fauhlon Line Will Be Quaint Old-Fashioned Effects to Be Attained by the Fairy Godmother Style Generally. Gotham Faahlon Gossip.

I i OW to make a big with a small A 1 income is the probr P lem which comes in with the flowers of but unlike f' them; brings no joy with it, writes our r New York corre- ( spondent. It conV• *" sists ip trying to f v make two ends | meet when there is . no stretch to either, - ■j'j in trying to fit round ' Ci' pegs in square holes, in a word, in trying to do an impossible thing.

However, it is not necessary to become despondent. If you can’t compete with those w}io ride in a coach and four, try your hand on those who drive out in a one-horse chaise. In the olden time, men thought woman beautiful when they were clad in homespun. King Cophetua even fell in love with a beggar maid, and Goethe turned from the silks and laces of court dames to the homely garb of a peasant girl. It is not so much the clothes, after all, as the girl in them. intelligence, wit, amiability, these have a power and a potency which the most costly textures have not. But I don’t blame a woman for wanting to make a show when summer comes. It is such a sweet consolation to be well dressed in fine weather. A worn gown may pass muster in the uncertain light of the drawing-room, but the glory of a June day calls for fresh new dresses, graceful in hang, perfect in fit, becoming in tone. A young girl, especially, should strive to have about her the neatness of the rose bud, the freshness of the clover top, the perfume of the lilac. These delightful qualities are no more within easy reach of the rich than of those in moderate circumstances. They are the result of that eternal vigilance and care which the - particular girl gives her toilet. True, the hit-or-miss girl is often a very attractive character, but she must have a natural fitness for the role. This year as last there will be a pro-

nounced affectation for mannish costumes. In my initial illustration you see such a make-up. It is extremely becoming to a young woman with high color, but should, as a rule, be avoided by delicate, feminine types. These should give preference to silk skirts made full and set off- with some lace ornament at the throat. Over these full blouses the sleeveless Eton jacket makes a very pretty effect, giving the requisite touch of color. In some cases the Eton jacket is made with a vest, but this is a matter of taste. Yoked bodices, too, are very modish, and with them you may wear a sash with the long Japanese bows, wjiich you fasten up against the figuri with faiicy pins.

At the seaside and in the mountains the evenings are very apt to be quite cool, and hence arises the necessity of being muffled up at times. For this purpose nothing can be more practical and more stylish than the paletot sacque, such as I show you In my second illustration. It looks very well in gray-blue cloth, with large mother-of-pearl buttons, which may, if you are an admirer of outdoor sports, have some appropriate emblem in steel on their faces, such as a horseshoe, tennis racquet, or crossed oars. The pockets, sleeves, lapels, and bottom of this useful garment should have several rows of stitching and be lined with silk. My third illustration presents another view of the same garment and gives you a correct idea of the seamless back and shape of the sleeves. The sides have one dart, which extends down to the pockets. The “intelligent foreigner" who visits our shores from time to time insists that we have no ingenues in this country. Ho claims that there is qo such delicious

middle land between childhood and womanhoxl as exists in the old world; that when our children throw aside their dolls they take up the young man with his cigarette and make-believe manliness. Possibly the “intelligent foreigner” may be right in most cases, but did he erver make search for an ingenue at a summer resort? She is more likely to be met with there than when the family is. in town. She is denied access to the drawing-room, but who can keep her out of the hotel parlor or off the hotel veranda? In my fourth illustration you will find pictured two charming toilets for maidens who scorn to be children and fear to be women. They may not be, strictly shaking, convent buds, for their teachers take them out for

exercis* on the avenue every day, bnt they are the ingenues of American 'Jfe. Their suspicions are strong and their knowledge scanty. They are the picturesque element at the summer resort. The 'one on the right wears a pretty costume of figured material made with a fichu, w&ich at the back is surmounted by a round yoke and crosses in front and hooks on the shoulders The collar is ruched. The little lady on the left is clad in a cheviot, the skirt and corselet forming a single piece. The trimming may be of galloon or ribbon. The blouse may be made of crepe de chine or any soft, light material in two parts, the upper or fichu, and the lower or pleated portion. The corselet should be boned and be either laced or hooked at the back. The galloon which borders the skirt should be brought up on both sides at the seam. * The craze of the summer in the fashion line will undoubtedly be quaint, oldfashioned effects, to be attained by the use of the feoke bonnet, mittens, crossed kerchiefs, sandal shoes and fairy godmother style generally’. These quaint conceits of Queen Fashion are charmingly appropriate for some young people. I need not warn the girl with a long pointed nose that she must keep clear of a poke bonnet. The effects might be altogether too natnral. One sees nothing but round waists, or else the basques are

dress-coat style only at the back, and those who pretend to stand behind Queen Fashion’s throne say that waists are gradually creeping upward and will be under Qie arms before many months. Who can say? Possibly in the near future the modish miss will be lolling in graceful attitudes of cultured indolence upon a soft upholstered divan clad in a genuine empire costume, Josephine style, hair perked upon the top of her head, short waist, puffed sleeves and long sheath skirt molding the form with the clinging effect of soit silks. Certainly if the long puff goes up much higher it will give the arm very much the look of; being thrust into an empire sleeve. Many of the outdoor costumes are made with bodices consisting entirely of lace yoke-wise, below which there are alternate bands of ribbon of different colors. For instance, if the lace be white the corselet may be white moire and gray satin. .In the costume shown m my last illustration you see one of these ribbon coselets clasping a puffed silk corsage with yoke outlined with broad band of passementerie. Watteau backs are not in high favor with young women having graceful figures, for they simply serve to hide a beauty instead of accentuating it, as should be the desire of those fortunate to possess fine figures. In fact, some mischievous maidens pretend to have discovered that whenever a Watteau plait is worn by a young person it serves to conceal some defect, such as round shoulders or unshapely back—just as some girls take to the so-called reforih dress because they lack taper waists or have no figures worth displaying. The Russian blouse will be popular with tall slender girls this season; it is usually made up in silk and trimmed with passementerie. You may make one of these blouses up in woolen stuff trimmed with lace, and lined with silk. The skirt worn with one of these blouses must always be of a different material. Every now and then the dainty tricksters who set up and upset fashions hit

upon some new method to make life more miserable than it has been yet. This year they have lighted upon the softest, filmiest, gauziest bit of a woman’s toggery, her veil. Unless you wear exactly the correct thing in veils, you are lost. You might as well stay home. You will Incur the severest displeasure of her majesty the royal mistress of the modes. Strange to say, there is great latitude given you, but the thing is to get in the right latitude. Check, lozenged, or stripped tulle goes, but it must seem to have come from a spider’s loom. It must not conceal the features but melt into them as if a painter had touched them here and there with a bit of color; you may also make use oi pink, white, ciel blue, or reddish brown tulle with chenille spots and applique lace borders; pink tulle must have reddish gold spots; ciel bine must have black, and marine blue the same tone. These spots must be large and velvety. The “confetti” *is the very latest wrinkle: it Is in black and tulle, strewn over with white or maize-colored 6pots. Fancy the effect of such a veil upon a big hat; it will be striking, but the summer girl is fond of striking effects. She lives on the excitement of the hour. There is a capacity in every man anc woman, thojgh it may often lie latent,, to draw happiness from life in its varied phases; and his or her entire welfare depends very largely upon the degree tc which this power exists. To lose faith in it is to be blown about at the mercy of the winds and waves of life, and at last to be carried away by its current; but to feel and exert it is to guide the helm and conquer the storm, and bring the boat successfully into port. The man who does this is not the mere pleasureseeker. Missionaries have done a good work in old India, where the people were kinder to brutes than to men. Lepers in India were treated with shocking inhumanity before Christianity entered that country. Many of them were buried alive. The English rulers have put a stop to this custom, and for fourteen years there has been a special Christian mission to the 135,(H)0 lepers in India.

OUTING COAT.

BACK VIEW.

MODISH MAIDENS.

RIBBON CORSELET.